2023 V4S Dyno Tunning @ Carita Motorsports in Miami

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baggerman said:
I guess my point is I don't think 30 HP would matter if the motor was built right. The oiling (rod puking) failures are due to the particular motors characteristics more than the design. Ducati call out a rod bearing clearance spec where the max is twice (or so?) the minimum. First order the annular space of the bearing to journal would double. Required oil flow to service that gap first order double. Add a loosely toleranced oil pump. Careful assembly and I bet these are bulletproof. How many WSBK Ducati motors failed in races last season?
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That’s kind of my point. It’s not a blueprinted engine.
 
baggerman said:
Ok. So if you're going to use as a track bike go thru it first. Italian design is fine. Assembly however is also Italian.
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This is true. If I was going to have a dedicated track/race bike not under warranty, a blueprinted engine would be first on the list after sorting suspension and ergonomics. Then again tracking a Ducati wouldn’t be my first choice for a track bike due to the costs involved. Instead, I’d go for a bog stock Fireblade SP or Kramer
 
So the intake valve on the superleggera's which is a 1000 cc is the same. The intake shim range is the same but the closing shim range starts like 2 mm higher. So I'm thinking they bolt in. On earlier twin R's this wasn't necessarily the same because of valve sizes. These motors have the same valves sizes so the centerlines of the valves is probably the same. That would move the valves on the 1103 further away from the cylinder wall which would help flow a little. So if all that is true you can get slightly greater flow from the R cams in a 1103. I don't find these particularly hard to work on just complicated from the shear number of parts. I find the reshimming process easier than the testaretta's. And I like the cam drive set up.
 
I'll tell you what those R cam specs have my mind spinning. I'm now in the market for a used set. If you timed these closer to the regular V4 timing spec (advancing the intakes mostly) the 1103's would have beast like midrange and more topend. They have 40% more lift. The difference in dwell time above the point of no restriction (about 8.5 mm lift) versus the street cams is immense. They have made the closer collets titanium on the V4R. I don't think this is just for weight partially for ductility versus the tool steel ones. To get these kind of numbers the closing ramp has to be a cliff. I'm going look for any other differences (closer springs maybe) but they should bolt in. Downside short guide life.
 
I like italian engineering. That why I buy Ducati's. I have never found them hard to work on. That includes the current one. The electronics is complex but that's on everybodies superbike. I literally have the bike apart swingarm hanging on the motor. Simply not hard to work. I've looked at pictures of the motors extensively and I like the architecture from an assembly standpoint. Really nice parts (pistons, rod and such) particular in the R's. And I need to go back and look at the cases but is the transmission a cassette? Boy that would make the race mechanics happy. Me to. I'll be changing to the R gearset at some point if that's so. I've worked on a lot of stuff this is not hard. You want to work on something where they totally didn't care about service try a BMW car.
 
Bummer. Then the motor needs to be turned upside down with the outer cases stripped and the two lower cases removed. Instead of pulling the clutch and then the input shaft.
 
There is an input shaft bearing support that fit's into the case on the clutch side. So the gear diameter is bigger than the hole for the bearing support. Can't be.
 
Looks to me like you could pull the input cluster out of the cases intact. No way to replace the outshaft gears without pulling the lower cases off unfortunately. I do like italian engineering. The last time I ran into a cassette on a street bike was a 40 inch BSA.
 
BTW the snap ring for the output drive bearing is on the outside of the bearing behind the seal. If the bearing bore diameter is bigger than 1st gear on the output shaft you can change the whole transmission by removing the clutch side, pulling the cluster, pulling the shift drum then the output shaft bearing and pulling the output shaft.
 
Only way you’re getting into the transmission is by cracking open the bottom end
 

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At least it appears you can change the output bearing without splitting the cases. That alone is a significant change. The input cluster really looks removable intact thru the bearing retainer hole. So you should be able to service the shift drum and forks. I figured driven first would be way bigger diameter than the output bearing.
 

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