This oil level topic is becoming much more common. It's closely related to the oil some owners are finding in the air intake. I would like to say everyone is making this harder than it should be, but it's actually made harder because of so many half truths & straight out lies told by government regulators, manufactures, & oil companies. I would like to avoid getting overly technical, & stick to the most important information that's the most helpful.
Some of you say you're using Motul 300V oil. Which 300V? In order to comply with the current fuel economy regulations, Motul has reformulated many of the oils in their 300V line up. Viscosity is extremely important. Which viscosity are you using, & what's your ambient temperature? For the sake of simplicity, if you prefer Motul 300V, use the 15W/60 Off-road racing motorcycle oil. Change it every 1,000 miles or sooner. One problem you're having is oil foaming. At high RPM's your current oil is full of air bubbles. This is also why you can't seem to find the correct level. It can take 24 hours for all the air bubbles to exit the oil. If you've done some high speed riding & shut the engine off, the oil level will appear to high for at least 24 hours. You don't want oil that's full of air bubbles.
Your engines are the most demanding by any manufacture. You can't use Car oil. The design of high performance motorcycle engines act like a meat grinder on the oil inside. The chemical properties are quickly diminished in these oils. In less than 1,000 miles most of what are called "long chain polymers", are badly degraded. No oil can withstand the oil change intervals manufactures tell owners. Why do you think Ducati says their most expensive race oil that cost $60 per quart, must be changed every 600 miles?
The only other oil I've found that's actually capable of withstanding the stress of these engines, is Red Line "Power Sports" line. On really hot days with high speed riding, 20W/60 is the best choice. At normal Summer ambient temperatures, 10W/50 is the better choice. But it must be their Power Sports line. You still need to change it every 1,000 miles or less.
I've left out a mountain of important technical information so as to quickly get to the point. Understanding the details in the technical information is what eliminates all of the other popular oils from this very short list. These 2 oils do not foam. You can get an accurate oil level within 15 minutes of the engine off.
Do you click your heels three times to make that happen?
