Sure - forget where I got this, but have at it. Always useful to have some help decoding spring gibberish!
Hmmm... Wont let me attach an Excel file. Here's a screen snip of the relevant spring codes.
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Baseline geometry settings for 1199?
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Sure - forget where I got this, but have at it. Always useful to have some help decoding spring gibberish!
Hmmm... Wont let me attach an Excel file. Here's a screen snip of the relevant spring codes.
jarelj
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Well, suspension setup is as much an art as it is a science due to the rider being such a big part of the equation, so there's not one "right" answer. I say try the lighter spring and see what you think, it should be easy to tell if it benefits you or not, if you can tell the rear is hooking up better.
Agreed on the correct rear rate to begin with being the way to go; just think you may well be good with the 95, what with you at 220 or more in full gear. Should definitely in the 90-95 range, and if the 95 turns out good, then you might do a bit of balancing if need be by slightly tweaking the front. You appear to be at 10.25 now with 10.0/10.5, so a 10.0/11.0 would be a very small bump up front to 10.50. However, your free vs loaded sag numbers on the front (assuming they are accurately done) don't look like the springs are too soft to me.
If it makes you feel any better, I was a little hesitant to argue with the Ohlins Tech when he suggested a 100, but I told him there were a lot of people online saying to go with a 95 MAX.
When I told him said people were from Ducati of Omaha he said "oh, I know those guys....they're the experts on suspension on THAT bike. Let's go with the 95."
Meaning they didn't charge me for the labor OR the springs, so I get the "right" springs for free but didn't wind up with "extra" springs. Seems right to me, and better than expected. Apparently it's something included in Ohlins trackside support. Not sure exactly how it works, whether it's just in the initial bike setup....I mean the guy that did it didn't require any type of proof of purchase but I'm guessing you prolly can't get re-sprung for free years down the read.
I Believe you there, but Ohlins said it took a spring compressor, so I just had them ship it straight to a shop my bike is going to be at. Too late to turn back now.
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I was having a lot of tire tearing at Nyst . I contacted Peter Kates of Computrack and he's suggested I went to a softer rear spring . I'm running a Penske rear and ohlins 30mm up front . It seems to be better now , I ran a 133.6 last sat before I low sided before Wheelie hill and completely destroyed my bike .
Oh yeah, I'm the guy that told you about rubbersideup.com.
Were you able to salvage the internals on those forks?
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So I'm wondering if that front fork measurement to the top of the cap would be different with the 30mm cartridge installed. The caps are sort of tall (going to the upper part, not the undulated part.
It's now set to 6mm and there's only a mm or two of fork tube showing above the triple
Now that I have a 95 spring in the rear, do you happen to know a good starting point for the clickers, front and rear?
I know they ship "pre-set" - but they've been clicked this way and that so much that I just want to start over from baseline, which I unfortunately don't have written down (live and learn)
I get what you're saying, but these are supposed to be "pre-set" from the factory and I was thinking it would be best to get back to those #'s and then dial in from there....
I don't get good enough data service at the track to watch a video (already on the road), I've got the book "Sportbike Suspension Tuning" by Trevett, which I'm guessing will be a similar method.
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All those settings are listed in your owners manual (to point out the obvious).
If anybody has an owners manual handy for 30mm NIX cartridges it would be awesome if you could post the comp/rebound recommended settings.
I have the owners manual for the rear shock, but the one for the cartridges must be at home.
The rear's manual listed sag reco's for front and rear but only rebound/compression for the rear.
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http://www.ohlins.nl/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/07284-01-om-ohlins-fork-cartridge-kit-30mm.pdf
Free spring length
260 mm
Compression adjustment
Maximum open valve about 20 clicks.
Rebound adjustment
Maximum open valve about 20 clicks.
Spring preload adjustment
0 - 18 mm (0 - 18 turns)
For reference, here are my settings
FORKS 8MM thru triple
SPRINGS 1025
PRELOAD 10mm
COMP. 10
REBOUND 12
Free spring length
260 mm
Compression adjustment
Maximum open valve about 20 clicks.
Rebound adjustment
Maximum open valve about 20 clicks.
Spring preload adjustment
0 - 18 mm (0 - 18 turns)
For reference, here are my settings
FORKS 8MM thru triple
SPRINGS 1025
PRELOAD 10mm
COMP. 10
REBOUND 12
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From the FGK224 installation manual for the 1199 Panigale:
Recommended set-up:
Compression 12 clicks
Rebound 12 clicks
Spring rate 10 N/mm
Spring preload 6 mm
Oil level 190 mm
Fork leg position 5 mm
Ohlins Front Fork Fluid part no 01309-01
Thanks!
The lighter spring in the rear helped a lot. I dropped 3 seconds - to a 1:38, there are maybe a couple more seconds to be gained by re-gaining my comfort.
Also thinking about backing off a turn or two of preload in the rear, b/c the rear is hooking up better, but still isn't hooking up quite like I wanted to, and the front seems to have plenty of traction to spare to finish turns. Sag is at 28mm vs. the 29 recommended in the user manual...but the good news is now I have 10-12 turns of preload to work with vs. none with the stiffer spring!
However....in the front, I've got the rebound almost closed (1 click out) to keep the front from bouncing right back at me (both bouncing on it in the paddock and on the track) and the compression almost open (I think like 18 clicks out of the 20) to make it feel like it's using a significant amount of travel. While to me as a noobie, that sort of sounds like the behavior of springs that are way, way too stiff, I don't think a mixed rate equivalent of 10.25 in the front would account for that, no? I mean, to totally overpower the rebound circuit up until the final 2 clicks sounds like it would take a monster spring...hoping I don't need a re-valve. Not sure how involved that is but sounds sort of expensive
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Ductard,
Disclaimer: I am no suspension tuner, however I do manage my settings once tuned for the street or track. With a baseline set, utilizing a simple procedure while maintaining good notes usually works pretty good.
A basic way to dial in the bike once you have the proper spring, baseline/sag established for you/your weight; go to the middle setting for compression & rebound - 10 clicks each, ride it. How does it feel ? Identify what you like, dislike to establish immediate goals then work from there based on the desired results, e.g. Slow down / increase compression or rebound (+/- 2 clicks at a time) til you don't like the feedback or result then go back 1 click on the respective clicker, rebound or compression. Do this individually, then. Test/ride. so you can start to feel the difference and ease the complexity. It can be easy to get lost.
Once again, key here is to maintain detailed notes, settings starting point, track condition and then track your progress with comments from each ride/session on feedback so you have something to talk to your suspension tuner in the event there is a mechanical failure, e.g. Valving issue.
Good luck!
Disclaimer: I am no suspension tuner, however I do manage my settings once tuned for the street or track. With a baseline set, utilizing a simple procedure while maintaining good notes usually works pretty good.
A basic way to dial in the bike once you have the proper spring, baseline/sag established for you/your weight; go to the middle setting for compression & rebound - 10 clicks each, ride it. How does it feel ? Identify what you like, dislike to establish immediate goals then work from there based on the desired results, e.g. Slow down / increase compression or rebound (+/- 2 clicks at a time) til you don't like the feedback or result then go back 1 click on the respective clicker, rebound or compression. Do this individually, then. Test/ride. so you can start to feel the difference and ease the complexity. It can be easy to get lost.
Once again, key here is to maintain detailed notes, settings starting point, track condition and then track your progress with comments from each ride/session on feedback so you have something to talk to your suspension tuner in the event there is a mechanical failure, e.g. Valving issue.
Good luck!
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I spoke to the Ohlins tech regarding the NIX30 forks. The rebound and compression are separate fork tubes. The compression is pretty straight forward, but on the rebound side. It's very different from conventional design, he specifically said not to adjust by bouncing standing still, otherwise you'll end up dialing rebound all the way in.
Start with 12 clicks, standard and work your way +4/-4, +2/-2, +1/-1 method. First go with 16 clicks without adjusting anything else, and try 8 clicks. The difference should be big enough where you have a preference. So if you like 8 clicks, next go 6 and 10... This helps you find the baseline real fast.
But remember, all other adjustments can affect your bike, so document all your changes.
Start with 12 clicks, standard and work your way +4/-4, +2/-2, +1/-1 method. First go with 16 clicks without adjusting anything else, and try 8 clicks. The difference should be big enough where you have a preference. So if you like 8 clicks, next go 6 and 10... This helps you find the baseline real fast.
But remember, all other adjustments can affect your bike, so document all your changes.
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