Break-In Theory

fzr100098 · May 7, 2015

I say "theory" because I don't think anyone has really proven the case

One thing for certain, modern engine tolerances are so good that a prolonged break-in period is no longer required. How long is good enough is subject to considerable debate. Excessive heat and stress during early break-in (i.e. dyno "break-in") is almost always considered counter-productive, but so is lugging the engine (i.e droning down the freeway during break-in is terrible, I've seen it result in oil consumption). Consensus seems to be constantly vary rpm to load/unload the rings, keep rpm is check (< 6k?) for the first several rides, but after that you can begin to open it up, progressively building load and heat into the motor. Change oil early and often and check for any particulate.

Comments?

Thamer · May 7, 2015

Dude ride it like you stole it!

RRnold · May 7, 2015

Mototune method

Thamer · May 7, 2015

I'm sure this is what's being done to all our bikes before being crated up for the dealers

http://youtu.be/zeswyb7Bj5A

Looks a little higher than 6000 rpm....lol.

My guess is that it's the oil they sell the bike to you with. In aviation engine manufacturers typically deliver engines with mineral oil runs the engine a bit then swaps it out. I suspect that the manufacturers don't want to piss off customers by telling them they have to change the oil the moment they buy the bike and let them "break it in" with lighter oil before having to spend more money on a brand new bike...lol. I could be wrong

Raaseri · May 7, 2015

I've visited in Ducati factory in Bologna. Someones 1199s was on dyno, like all the bikes, ridden wide open throttle before sending it out. Of course test cycle is short, and in a dyno the load is probably less than actual riding, still riden hard.

RRnold · May 7, 2015

All motor vehicles are tested and ran before leaving the factory.

http://youtu.be/HUFDelbUdnI

fzr100098 · May 7, 2015

Raaseri said:
Of course test cycle is short

How short?

Wolf · May 7, 2015

ride it like you stole it.

990Glen · May 7, 2015

As far as I'm concerned, I always buy new, and one of the perks I like is the warranty during the teething problem stages. If I expect the manufacturer to be sympathetic in my claims, I do what they ask for the break in period. Its a two way street after all.

One of the reasons I never buy used is probably a lot to do with the some of the replies above

BRT · May 8, 2015

Im following the run in guidelines as stipulated in the handbook until the first service at 600 miles and an oil change. After that I'll be slowly winding it on..

I did the same thing with my Tricolore and it didn't use any oil. I know the liners are steel on the 1299 but Im hoping for minimal oil consumption again.

Chaotic · May 8, 2015

No way in hell am I going to spend this kind of money on a bike (or any kind of money really) and then be told I have to baby it for 600 miles. This isn't the 1940's. With CAD engineering and advancements in technology/parts/materials/oils/etc...there is absolutely no reason to baby a bike for 600 miles.

If you think about it with simple math, using a gear that lets you go 60mph at 6k RPM, by the time you reach 600 miles that engine will have seen 3,600,000 revolutions. Does anyone really believe the engine needs that many revolutions to "break in"?

Chaotic · May 8, 2015

Personally, I do my own version of a hard break-in. Using a generic red line of 14k RPM, mine will go something like this...

With dino oil in the bike...
0-50 miles = stage the bike up to 6k RPM (slowing increasing the revs, using a lot of engine braking, as I ultimately hit 6k at 50 miles on the odometer).
Change oil/filter
50-100 miles = stage the bike up to 10k RPM in the same manner.
Change oil/filter
100-200 miles = stage the bike up in the same manner (varying RPM's, lots of engine braking, etc) and hit redline as I hit 200mi on the odometer.
Change oil and filter, this time going with full synthetic Motul 300v.

From then on, I ride it however I want.

I have done that on about 14-15 bikes with no issues. Including my Triumph Sprint ST that is at about 25,000 miles and counting.

This is of course referring to new bikes I buy and initially put on the street. When Livengood builds my race motors, they are broken in on the dyno.

BRT · May 8, 2015

Does anyone know if the ECU records rev ranges and if so, can Ducati pull the info in case of a warranty claim? It doesn't specifically say so in the handbook:

Running-in recommendations
Maximum rotation speed
Rotation speed for running-in period and during
standard use (rpm):
1) 6K rpm up to 1,000 km;
2) 7k rpm from 1,000 to 2,500 km.
Up to 1,000 km
During the first 1000 km, keep an eye on the rev counter. It should never exceed: 5,500Ã· (included) 6,000 rpm.
During the first hours of riding, it is advisable to run
the engine at varying load and rpm, though still within
recommended limit.
Strict observance of running-in recommendations will
ensure longer engine life and reduce the likelihood of
overhauls and tune-ups.

My GT3 records rev ranges and its one of the things that people look at when buying them, so much so that a lot of buyers won't touch a car that has recorded over revs ,no matter how small the number.. I think a number of over revs are inevitable if the car / bike has driven / ridden 'purposfully'

Raaseri · May 8, 2015

fzr100098 said:
How short?

I did not take time. I would guess 3-5 minutes.

bradp51 · May 8, 2015

Wolf said:
ride it like you stole it.

Wolf
its a motorbike not an F14 Tomcat on afterburner. LOL

(As I write this F18 fighters are boring holes in the sky above me keeping me awake at Williamtown airbase.) Bloody noisy things, but cool.

Macattack · May 8, 2015

drain the engine oil right away
replace it with olive oil true story .
hold it wfo for one hour in neutral or first gear if moving

drain oil repeat and you are good to go .

manufactures don't know anything about break in that is why they put that stupid break in procedure info on the dash .

the people who design engineer and build ducati motorcycle are complete slack jawed knuckledragging tools . Id buy a 25k bike from them but I'd never follow their break in procedure instead I'd get my info from the internet .

Chaotic · May 8, 2015

With all due respect, I refuse to entertain anyone's argument (regarding anything) that begins with "the (insert OEM) engineers spent plenty of ____ on R&D and....".

By that logic, we should stick with the OEM gearing, tire choice, oil brand, brake pads, bodywork, windscreen, clip-ons, levers, suspension, fuel type, so on and so forth. I mean, their engineers know what is best, right?

The main reason for those recommendations on sportbikes is liability. The same reason they say you should go 50-100 miles on new tires to "break them in". When many of us are typically knee-down in the 2nd corner on new tires with no issues.

And BTW, as previously stated, these engines are ran to redline multiple times prior to being installed in the bike.

wilkson · May 8, 2015

Im sick of this subject . Do what you want

crazyduc996 · May 8, 2015

From the mouth of my TRUSTED Ducati mechanic, ride it within the Ducati described break in parameters to 100 miles, then ride it how you would normally would ride it.

He claims something about the tolerances in the Pani are super tight...

plus its brand new bike with a 2 year warranty that can be extended out at any time during that period, so where is the downside?

wilkson · May 8, 2015

crazyduc996 said:
From the mouth of my TRUSTED Ducati mechanic, ride it within the Ducati described break in parameters to 100 miles, then ride it how you would normally would ride it.

He claims something about the tolerances in the Pani are super tight...

plus its brand new bike with a 2 year warranty that can be extended out at any time during that period, so where is the downside?

Your trusted mechanic is a ..... .

Break-In Theory

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