Can you help with my suspension settings?

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if you plan to do a track day, most track orgs have suspension guys there. failing that I'd take it to a good suspension guy and let him help with it.

This is far too complex a subject to just start turning knobs and such.

I was lucky enough to have Dave Moss spend the day working on mine at a track day at barber, a couple links to his site posted above.


+ 100 !!!

Under 60 kg and over 95 : look at springs
Under 15 % milage on track : go P on the rear .. It should absorb initial bumps better without changing overall handling on the street ..

Front comp and reb come into play most under braking. Lift the control ribbon on the leg . Find a place to do 120 kph and go hard on the brakes to 40kph .. On ohlins : as long as the ring is over 4 cm from the bottom after that braking , there is room to soften compression.
 
+ 100 !!!

Under 60 kg and over 95 : look at springs
Under 15 % milage on track : go P on the rear .. It should absorb initial bumps better without changing overall handling on the street ..

Front comp and reb come into play most under braking. Lift the control ribbon on the leg . Find a place to do 120 kph and go hard on the brakes to 40kph .. On ohlins : as long as the ring is over 4 cm from the bottom after that braking , there is room to soften compression.

Gonna try this today. What about rear?
 
General question: If bumps are knocking me off the seat. Should I soften compression, rebound or both?

Front or rear ? Rebound depends what happens after the compression . Another compression. , a turn? Going over bad road ? Turning into along sweeper? . For comfort : Try P :)
 
Front or rear ? Rebound depends what happens after the compression . Another compression. , a turn? Going over bad road ? Turning into along sweeper? . For comfort : Try P :)

Feels like rear is nocking me off on just road bumps, straight, non braking/accelerating. My old Aprilia was stiff, but was more of a hard hit, not really the sensation of throwing me off the bike. I already believe at my 160lbs I should respring, but don't want to spend the cash. So I've kept softening all adjustments. So I guess two questions. One, I just wondered if there is a compression or rebound element to the "thrown off the seat" aspect. Logically it would seem that stiffing/slowing the rebound would ease that, but also seems like doing so would keep the tire off the ground and really hurt traction to have rebound stiffer than compression.

And two, if it is too stiff of a spring, am I not only not doing any good by setting compression and rebound too soft/fast, but am I actually doing harm with traction?
 

Progressive setting on shok as opposed to F, Flat setting.

Which brings up a possible question. Spring is stiff for me. I have on Progressive as normally more comfortable for road riding. However, I don't know the mechanics of how it makes this switch. Is it possible the P setting, while progressivly stiff, actually makes the spring stiffer than in the F setting? I question whether putting in F might actually make the spring flex esier, i.e. be more appropriate for a lighter rider, even though the compression will be flat and not progressive. Anybody have any idea on this?
 
Hi Denver.. loads of questions i'm not pro for to answer... the progressive will initially get more play room to soke up bumps... it will make it stifffer the deeper the spring goes.. i'm a bit worried that by now you have sort of turned every button there is to turn and are way off the scales in set up... that hardly ever is a good thing.


i would focus on:

setting everything back to normal, inlcuding to F
having a good look on preload/sag.
see what that gives you
start from there..

changing a spring in itself is not that expensive and is not something i would keep away from if that is needed..



just some thinking :

if your roads are that bad, upping the rebound damping must be a bad thing as the shock takes to long to recover before the next hits comes and won't be fully extended before it has to go in again... will only harshen the ride , even and perhaps especially if you did lessen the comp damping...
 
Progressive setting on shok as opposed to F, Flat setting.

Which brings up a possible question. Spring is stiff for me. I have on Progressive as normally more comfortable for road riding. However, I don't know the mechanics of how it makes this switch. Is it possible the P setting, while progressivly stiff, actually makes the spring stiffer than in the F setting? I question whether putting in F might actually make the spring flex esier, i.e. be more appropriate for a lighter rider, even though the compression will be flat and not progressive. Anybody have any idea on this?

P will help Band-Aid it a touch in the first part of the travel, but the effective rate will indeed end up stiffer in P than F in the latter part of the travel. That's what P is for after all, to support a passenger's weight without making the bike unrideable solo.

Every company that makes performance-oriented aftermarket suspension links for streetbikes makes them linear/flat, or at least less progressive than OEM links. There's a reason for that; think about it.

Will the ride feel firmer for a given spring with a flat link vs a progressive one? Yes. But it will do a better job of controlling the chassis than a progressive one under aggressive riding. At your weight the bike is simply oversprung for road riding. No matter how quick you go on the road, the loads put into the tires and suspension are nothing compared to on the track, so you need softer suspension for it to work properly. Not to mention how much rougher the surfaces are; even a relatively smooth road is not as smooth as most tracks.

Bottom line, springs are cheap, and you need them. I'm 155 out of gear and am running 80N on back and 9.5N on front on my base model with the link on F. Preload/Sag settings are where you'd want to see them now, whereas with the stock springs the preload was way too little to get sag in the ballpark. Needs a bit more oil height to limit brake dive in the front, but otherwise it works much better than stock now on the roads I ride.
 
P will help Band-Aid it a touch in the first part of the travel, but the effective rate will indeed end up stiffer in P than F in the latter part of the travel. That's what P is for after all, to support a passenger's weight without making the bike unrideable solo.

Every company that makes performance-oriented aftermarket suspension links for streetbikes makes them linear/flat, or at least less progressive than OEM links. There's a reason for that; think about it.

Will the ride feel firmer for a given spring with a flat link vs a progressive one? Yes. But it will do a better job of controlling the chassis than a progressive one under aggressive riding. At your weight the bike is simply oversprung for road riding. No matter how quick you go on the road, the loads put into the tires and suspension are nothing compared to on the track, so you need softer suspension for it to work properly. Not to mention how much rougher the surfaces are; even a relatively smooth road is not as smooth as most tracks.

Bottom line, springs are cheap, and you need them. I'm 155 out of gear and am running 80N on back and 9.5N on front on my base model with the link on F. Preload/Sag settings are where you'd want to see them now, whereas with the stock springs the preload was way too little to get sag in the ballpark. Needs a bit more oil height to limit brake dive in the front, but otherwise it works much better than stock now on the roads I ride.

This is what I suspected. Basically can't solve being over sprung...other than new springs. They recommended to me the exact same as you. Dealer says can do for $630 parts and labor. That seem fair?
 
+ 100 !!!

Under 60 kg and over 95 : look at springs
Under 15 % milage on track : go P on the rear .. It should absorb initial bumps better without changing overall handling on the street ..

Front comp and reb come into play most under braking. Lift the control ribbon on the leg . Find a place to do 120 kph and go hard on the brakes to 40kph .. On ohlins : as long as the ring is over 4 cm from the bottom after that braking , there is room to soften compression.

This is great advice.
 
This is what I suspected. Basically can't solve being over sprung...other than new springs. They recommended to me the exact same as you. Dealer says can do for $630 parts and labor. That seem fair?

I paid $190 with a new Ohlins spring in the rear and labor to swap the part at a local motorcycle shop. They had all of the shock tools to properly change the spring.
 
This is what I suspected. Basically can't solve being over sprung...other than new springs. They recommended to me the exact same as you. Dealer says can do for $630 parts and labor. That seem fair?

I would get a pro to try and balance your suspension before doing all that. If its just a road bike that's a lot to invest IMHO but its your money.
 
This is what I suspected. Basically can't solve being over sprung...other than new springs. They recommended to me the exact same as you. Dealer says can do for $630 parts and labor. That seem fair?

You can buy the front and rear Ohlins springs for around $250 retail or less. It took me about 15-20 minutes to swap the rear spring, and maybe 45 minutes for the fronts, without being in any particular hurry. It's an easy job to do, so $630 sounds high unless they're also changing fork oil and doing a decent base sag/damping setup for you too. Dunno what the flat rate is for it per Ducati, but if I had a mechanic working for me who couldn't swap the springs in an hour I'd be looking for another one.

For the front, you don't have to pull the front wheel or anything; just support the triple from above or below, pop the fork caps and drop the front to expose the internals, remove the caps and lift the old springs out, drop the new ones in and button it back up. The shock only has two bolts holding it on, and you don't even need a spring compressor with the Ohlins (you do with the Sachs). Support the bike by the pegs, remove the shock, unscrew the lock rings, remove the old spring, put new one on and reinstall the shock. Set your sag at both ends and you're done.
 

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