Charcoal canister cannot be removed on new 1299S?

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Yeah I have ridden a couple of other 1299's including a demo They do not react like mine The owner of the dealership personally rode mine and said "that is just the way they are" so what can I do from here on?

Just gotta get used to it.. I do have a lemon but no one is going to do a thing about it..
Man, that sucks.... Sorry.
 
I have a brand new 1299 and have had an issue with it stalling after it has been running and then turned off. Once you restart it it wants to stall at idle. I literally have to continuously give it a little throttle to keep it running. After searching through he forum I was thinking it was the charcoal canister so I called the dealer but they informed me that on new Panigales it can no longer be removed. I think they said it is wired in. My question is first, is that true, and second can I just leave the canister and remove and cap the one vacuum line and remove and tap the vent line from the canister into the other vent line. Therefore I would be leaving the canister in place but hopefully still fix the problem.

Thanks
I've just had mine in to be looked at for the same issue. My dealer confirmed it is either the Tps and butterflies need setting up or replacement throttle bodies.

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I just got rid of the canister, left the solenoid there plugged in. Extended those lines under the bike. Did it over a year ago, no issues or codes.

15- 1299
 
i have a 15 Panigale R and i also removed the charcoal canister, but mine did not have that valve
 
I've just had mine in to be looked at for the same issue. My dealer confirmed it is either the Tps and butterflies need setting up or replacement throttle bodies.

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Good luck ... They replaced the complete throttle bodies and the ECU and actual throttle on the handlebar.( NO codes are thrown) Throttle position sensors show no problems all to no avail.. NO DIFFERENCE Still stalls when it decides to and there is nothing anyone so far can do.. IT has been doing it say day on off and on... Completely baffles everyone..? :confused:

Speedy
 
Speedy, was your ECU replaced? This happens to a lot of people. Have to remember that this board represents a fraction of owners so we only see what we see. When i first got the bike (before the transformation) every once in a while, the bike would just stop (always at idle). It always started again. There is something that is signaling something in the ECU. When i rebuilt the bike it got a new ECU. Never had the issue since. We were able to find the fault ad it was in the ECU and it was tied to the QS interrupt circuit. If this is tripped at low idle, it will kill the motor. Not sure if this relates to your situation. I do not run the clutch switch. If the bike is sitting at idle, i can get it to stall by putting the right pressure on the shift lever just enough to engage the circuit but not clicking gears. I believe the clutch switch runs a multi function in that it prevents the interrupt circuit at low idle. No one at Ducati knows anything about the ECU circuitry. I had to get it from Mitsubishi.
 
Speedy, was your ECU replaced? This happens to a lot of people. Have to remember that this board represents a fraction of owners so we only see what we see. When i first got the bike (before the transformation) every once in a while, the bike would just stop (always at idle). It always started again. There is something that is signaling something in the ECU. When i rebuilt the bike it got a new ECU. Never had the issue since. We were able to find the fault ad it was in the ECU and it was tied to the QS interrupt circuit. If this is tripped at low idle, it will kill the motor. Not sure if this relates to your situation. I do not run the clutch switch. If the bike is sitting at idle, i can get it to stall by putting the right pressure on the shift lever just enough to engage the circuit but not clicking gears. I believe the clutch switch runs a multi function in that it prevents the interrupt circuit at low idle. No one at Ducati knows anything about the ECU circuitry. I had to get it from Mitsubishi.

Also the shift rod's signal line runs unshielded to the ECU. Wasn't that of a problem with the 1199, with the 1299 signals are voltage decoded. Same as with the LH side switches on the handle bar (and we all know how "good" electrical engineers were at Ducati. It led to a recall in 2013 for the 1199.

There are a lot of electrical interference sources on any bike. E.g. if you don't follow the installation guide from SportBikeDevelopment exactly (regarding the way how to route the additional cables), their BlipBox won't work!
 
Its all fun and games until everything terminates into a couple of circuit boards permanently encased in epoxy. You get an intermittent fault caused by temp,vibration etc that is totally random and they will never ever find it. The ECUs are total throw aways. In Speedy's case, the situation he describes can technically not exist. It is virtually impossible not to be able to solve an electrical or mechanical problem simply by the fact that you have a virtually unlimited supply of replacement parts so they obviously did not replace everything. If you look in the right place, you will find the issue.
 
Had the same stalling issue after a hot start, never on cold and ...... idle, also crappy below 3k fueling. This was true in both racing and sport mode. In wet mode there was no problem. But After putting a rapid bike on i have not had any issues in any mode. Fueling is probably to lean down low as the stock set up.
 
It can definitely be removed, no issues. It was removed on mine before I even took delivery - The mechanic at my dealership who prepped my bike pre-delivery, took it off.

I have had zero stalling issues on my 1299S.

This. Same here.

It was removed while the bike was being race prepped. The bike was never even started with that canister in place.
 
Its all fun and games until everything terminates into a couple of circuit boards permanently encased in epoxy. You get an intermittent fault caused by temp,vibration etc that is totally random and they will never ever find it. The ECUs are total throw aways. In Speedy's case, the situation he describes can technically not exist. It is virtually impossible not to be able to solve an electrical or mechanical problem simply by the fact that you have a virtually unlimited supply of replacement parts so they obviously did not replace everything. If you look in the right place, you will find the issue.



I totally agree with you.. The problem is the only way the dealer can replace a part (and get paid under warranty) is when they have a code thrown on their diagnostic computer. (or the factory rep says to replace something and from what I have seen so far he doesn't give a damn about helping them find what is wrong with my bike) :(
I am just waiting till something just goes ahead and breaks. Perhaps then I will finally get it fixed...
It is a shame that such a high end (and expensive) brand has so many problems and that the Ducati organization will not even admit there is a problem at the factory...

Word does eventually get out to the general public though.. Especially with websites like this and Facebook etc...

Speedy
 
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I am just waiting till something just goes ahead and breaks. Perhaps then I will finally get it fixed...

Speedy


Once, long ago.. a mechanic dragged a screw driver across a electronics board..It took a few times but the effected equipment was suddenly replaceable under warranty ...
 
ill be ale to disable the evap purge valve with the flash, ill be testing that it works and I don't get a code unplugging it hopefully this weekend
 
I disconnected the carbon canister.(It did have some fuel in it). plugged the suction line from the switch and ran the vent tube down as instructed
Made absolutely no difference in the stalling issue however there are no codes thrown..

Mine still stalls usually at start up a couple of times.. Sometimes when I am de-accelerating coming up to a light (or sometimes just to keep things interesting,,, when in an intersection... :eek: Lots of fun:eek:

I have just consoled myself to the fact that no matter how much you spend on a 1299 Panigale and no matter how many different things I try or how many times I have it in the shop, it is STILL going to die on me..

This will be my last Ducati experience...:( I have had enough of the "Ducati big twin cylinder "Character " It is evidently un fixable...
I don't know what really causes it but it is definitely a serious design flaw that the Ducati factory will neither fix or even recognize as a problem.... Not to mention the terrible low speed throttle response and surging etc...at anything below 12% throttle...


Speedy

I went to the source, I ran a new solid fuel line all the way up through the bike and to the tank, connecting this and venting it out of the bottom just beside the fan (yes I made a hole to run this out of) the vacuum line got plugged.

No more issues with vapor locking and stalling.

I also hadn't had an issue with the throttle (I rather like the lunging and bitching the bike does)

But on that subject, have you done throttle spacers? This made a big difference for me as well.
 
stalling issue

I have a 2017 1299 and have the same issue. I think a lot of the issue upon take off is the electronic throttle. I've had several bikes but this one is the first with the TRUE electronic throttle. Lots of others I owned said ride by wire but they was still the old fashioned throttle cables there that went to an electronic piece. I did remove the charcoal canister and the stalling did improve greatly. It still stalls to this day but now very rarely. Before it would stall in most gears even at higher rpms, starting to slow down at 3k or higher rpm's the bike would stall. Which sucks just when the bike stalls the engine pulls back and I did drop the bike once because of it. Luckily I didn't put a scratch on the bike.
I also installed the T-800 up map, but both the stock map and up-map have there plus's and minus's. I have the SC Project slip on and sprint air filter. the bike still occasionally will stall and it's F-in Frustrating. I also removed the exhaust valve and installed the bypass relay.
 
Does anyone make a delete resistor plug to remove the purge valve completely? Or know what resistor should be used in its place?
 

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