Heh, not sure if you guys actually spend much time at the tracks or not, but this bike has only ever seen track miles and probably will never be on the street (unless it's around my house to test stuff and annoy my neighbors).I'm not a mechanical genius, but I honestly don't see the benefit of switching so early to reduce 1 or 2 degrees worth of operating temps. I also think additive is banned at some track venues due to it being challenging to clean up in the event of a crash. A serious consideration if you plan on taking to the track.
But maybe someone can shed more light on the topic and correct me if they know more.
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Also, it's not typically only a "1 or 2 degree difference" it can be between 10-20deg F. The last time this bike was out on the track in 95-100deg ambient temps it overheated... i.e. big orange HIGH flashing in the upper left of the screen (really wish it would just tell you the actual temp like the twins did)...
I swapped out my coolant for water + water wetter a few weeks ago.
The drain is just a copper bolt on the lower left side of the radiator. Drain it, put the bolt back in, full with deminarlized water, let it idle for 10 minutes or so to get the motor warm and drain the system again. Repeat until the coolant is completely flushed out then fill with water + water wetter
Sweet, perfect. I figured that was it, just wanted to be sure.I swapped out my coolant for water + water wetter a few weeks ago.
The drain is just a copper bolt on the lower left side of the radiator. Drain it, put the bolt back in, full with deminarlized water, let it idle for 10 minutes or so to get the motor warm and drain the system again. Repeat until the coolant is completely flushed out then fill with water + water wetter
As for the "additive", you have it backwards. Most tracks/racing orgs want the glycol based coolant removed because it is slippery and hard to clean up in the event of a crash or leak. Water wetter is one of the most widely used coolant replacement options for racing and track duty.
Also, it's not typically only a "1 or 2 degree difference" it can be between 10-20deg F. The last time this bike was out on the track in 95-100deg ambient temps it overheated... i.e. big orange HIGH flashing in the upper left of the screen (really wish it would just tell you the actual temp like the twins did).
So there is definitely a benefit for switching to something more performant. I was just inquiring more to the process of changing it out vs. Asking if it should be done or not.
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Awesome, sounds good. Got the coolant swapped. We'll see how it does at cota thks Sunday. I'll try and remember to post an update.No track experience really, even though I'm turning my Triumph 675R into a dedicated track bike after buying my V4S. Thanks for shedding some light on the subject! I look forward to knowing how well the swap works if you decide to update the thread.
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I can't believe there isn't also a drain somewhere on the motor....
Did it make a noticeable difference in radiating heat while riding?
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Could you post a picture of the drain bolt? I have my fairing out to install GB racing case covers and figured I might as well do the coolant change now. I've attached a picture...maybe you can circle the bolt?Sweet, perfect. I figured that was it, just wanted to be sure.
Thanks!
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You should wash it out with about two gallons of distilled water you can buy from any pharmacy. You will see the outgoing liquid slowly turn from pink to clear. Once it turns clear, you know you've flushed all the coolant out. Then empty out the reservoir. Now she's ready for a mixture of a splash of water wetter and a gallon of distilled water solution.How many gallons/liters of coolant (be it water wetter solution or regular glycol stuff) does it take to completely flush V4 system?
Thanks.
Could you post a picture of the drain bolt? I have my fairing out to install GB racing case covers and figured I might as well do the coolant change now. I've attached a picture...maybe you can circle the bolt?