extra expansion tank (coolant)

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I'm never used anybody as I'm a DIY'er. But from what I see is Daniel understands all the BS interconnectivity between the maps. And as far as actual tuning there's been a couple of pretty impressive dyno charts. There's a lot of throttle manipulation in the ETV maps so some of it is what you want to use it for. For track use I see the stock Ducati maps as pretty useful. On mine I installed a throttle cable (electronically). The throttles track the twistgrip in a linear fashion. Not the easiest thing to handle near the edge of the tire with the motor spooled up. However it is fun to ride and just viciously fast even at relatively small throttle openings.
 
Considering I’ve actually spoken to Daniel on the phone at length about tuning and his product, then bought it and used it with success, I see no reason to go elsewhere. I’ve also read consistently good things about SLR and Termi to a lesser extent, the latter of which I’ve also used in the past. Tuneboy and Rapid Bike I wouldn’t recommend. Tuneboy for their lack of responsiveness and Rapid Bike for the added complexity.

I do agree with baggerman in that some tuners (including BT) manipulate the throttle so the bike feels like it has more power earlier in its rotation. If that’s bad or not depends. Manipulating some of that stuff undos some of Ducati design in that there’s a reason a 200+ HP bike doesn’t have all of the power available in first gear. The bike is faster if it doesn’t have to lean on wheelie and traction control. But, I digress.
 
As you are experience motorcycle rider. You know that 1 or 3 hp more or less l doesn't make the difference. But the rideability is important.

On that, we agree.


I don't have dyno charts.

As I said - you’ve offered nothing substantive to support your assertion that Bren offers a quality tune (no data, no video - nothing but talk).


You are 5 people in this group claiming deussen is really good…

I don’t recall saying Duessen was good, although I suspect that as an actual oem engineer with experience developing the exact ecu we’re discussing for the oem, his knowledge is likely better than Bren’s.

All I remember saying is that I’ve read many dubious reports going back years and across multiple platforms, about Bren Tune, and I pointed out that the information you’ve shared was not compelling and not helpful.
 
From experience the V4 runs fine without any expansion tanks. With distilled and a 2.0 cap there hasn't been any overflow into the single expansion tank I was testing for a year
 
Isn't the radiator cap a sealed item? The overflow port sits higher than the radiator cap seal. If the coolant pressure runs too high from heat, pressure is relieved until the coolant system reaches the rated cap pressure, flowing into the right tank.

Once the system is equal and sits at the cap rating, there's not a vacuum effect on the radiator cap allowing that fluid to go back into the radiator. The coolant "level" tracks along with the rated cap pressure, whatever goes into the expansion tank is just excess fluid the coolant system doesn't use
 
there's not a vacuum effect on the radiator cap allowing that fluid to go back into the radiator.

The level in the expansion tank rises and lowers with changes to the operating temperature.

When the bike is hot, the level will be higher. As the engine cools, the fluid is drawn back into the radiator.
 
The expansion tank is what holds the pressure for the vacuum actually, the plastic caps on there are pressure rated. So when the rad cap vents that pressure holds inside the expansion tank, once the bike cools that stored pressure is what squeezes past the rad cap with X bar of pressure on it to return the fluid.

I guess if you're using a lower pressure cap with a heavy coolant that expands alot, the tanks would be needed. If you're using distilled with 2.0 cap then the expansion tanks can be removed
 
From my understanding the expansion tanks aren't pressurized as the right one is vented with no valve. The rad overflow valve is above the pressure valve of the cap. When the coolant expands d/t heat, the coolant system pressurizes and fills up the expansion tanks when over a specific pressure. When it cools the cap remains open until cools/less pressure and gets sucked back into the radiator d/t it being under vacuum
 
The right expansion tank overfills into the the left tank, thats what the 2nd upper hose is for if there's too much fluid in the right tank. The radiator vents into the lower port on the right tank. The radiator cap can't stay "open" until equal, because the coolant system pressure would then go into the expansion tanks.

From my understanding the expansion tanks aren't pressurized as the right one is vented with no valve. The rad overflow valve is above the pressure valve of the cap. When the coolant expands d/t heat, the coolant system pressurizes and fills up the expansion tanks when over a specific pressure.

So yea, if you're running distilled and 2.0 you can pull those expansion tanks. @bp_SFV4 is a warrantier, scared of mods
 
The right expansion tank overfills into the the left tank, thats what the 2nd upper hose is for if there's too much fluid in the right tank. The radiator vents into the lower port on the right tank. The radiator cap can't stay "open" until equal, because the coolant system pressure would then go into the expansion tanks.



So yea, if you're running distilled and 2.0 you can pull those expansion tanks. @bp_SFV4 is a warrantier, scared of mods

I’m the warrantier. My bike is currently experiencing this coolant overflow problem and going in for this next weekend
 
Coming from the guy who only has to add -

The level in the expansion tank rises and lowers with changes to the operating temperature.

When the bike is hot, the level will be higher. As the engine cools, the fluid is drawn back into the radiator.
That's about the most basic explanation of a radiator. Probably read that in a Dodge manual too

But to your point, if the tank rises or lowers, isn't that based on system pressure? That fluid pressure has to go somewhere because neither tank is an open vent. What let's the radiator bring the fluid back in? There's a 26psi cap pressing down on the tank
 
Coolant system is normally under pressure in operation. Pressure increases boiling point and can get better heat capacity from the liquid once it exceeds the cap pressure limit it expands into the tanks
 
From experience the V4 runs fine without any expansion tanks. With distilled and a 2.0 cap there hasn't been any overflow into the single expansion tank I was testing for a year

You're running a 2.0 bar. If you raise the cap pressure high enough the motor will blow a head gasket before the cap opens. That be physics. I'll be keeping my 1.1 thanks.
 
Has anyone overfilled their secondary coolant expansion tank on the track or street? Looking to hear about a real world instance
Never. The right side tank get to the halfway mark if I ride during the summer when its 90 F+.

More interesting old posts - V4 removing evap, overflow pipe, tank pressure and relief valve ball

And like I said, from experience I haven't had an issue with the coolant system after tank removal, but everyone has their opinions. Has there been a real instance of a blown head gasket from a 2.0 cap? I doubt it
 

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