D air suit

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do u think it did anything to help protect you? i mean, if u couldnt see it and u couldnt feel it (were u concussed and blacked out)...

what is the deflation half-life from time of impact?

No clue to be honest. It looks like it deployed after the initial impact when I was sliding. Chances are it did nothing because I didn't roll, I just slid on my back. I was knocked out instantly on impact and was out for about 30 sec or so. It must have deflated by the time I got up.

I would rather have it then not. I really have it to protect my collar bone. Have seen to many people out for half a season because of collar bone injuries. If it saves me from 1 injury, I am all in.
 
I did a 100mph cartwheel last season and separated AC joints in both my shoulders in addition to a couple broke ribs and being unconscious for a few min. I hope this suit helps prevent or lessen injury.
If you push its not if but when and how bad.
 
I tried on a couple D-Air suits last weekend as I'm gonna actually step up from track days and race the Novice class next year at my local track and want the best protection possible.

Unfortunately for me I'm 5'11" 195lbs with short legs, long torso, wide shoulders and stocky build. I couldn't get both shoulders in a 56 as it felt like it was cutting me in half at the nuts. I got a 58 on no prob but sleeves and legs were long and suit was bunchy in areas. Looks like I have to go with a custom fit...sucks as the price goes from $2500 to $4000. Since I gotta go this route is it worth spending another $700 for Kangaroo?

I tried to search Roo vs Moo and I found Roo is lighter and better abrasion resistance but couldn't find anything on the lifespan comparison between the two. Sounded like Moo doesn't degrade as quickly but what does that mean in years? I don't want to spend this chunk o change anytime in the near future again if I don't have to. Oh, and I did see that Wilks endorses the Roo suit so it must be good!

I gotta make an appointment for the fitting so I need all your guys help in making a good choice here. Thanks for your input!
 
Kangeroo has better abrasion resistance based on same thickness I think.
I always wondered if kangeroo is just lighter because they make them thinner, with the same abrasion resistance as cow.
 
I have a Dainese "Roo" suit. I've not been down in it, but I will say that it is much lighter than cow and it has held up very well over the last 3 seasons.

D-air is like a 2500 insurance policy. If it keeps you out of the ER for a broken clavicle, missed time at work, etc... totally worth it. I want one. Soon.
 
this is so disappointing!

A few years ago, i bought the A* race replica suit that had provisions to accept the tech air system when it came out. At the time, Dainese hadn't mentioned anything about releasing an airbag suit so of course I bought the $3000 A* race replica. Fast forward a couple years, A* hasn't come out with the airbag retrofit bc of US legal issues or something like that and Dainese has an airbag suit ready to go and for sale to the general public....ughh!
 
From my understanding, and this could be wrong. The roo leather is actaully a little thinner that the moon. But bits abrasion resistance is a little better and it's alot lighter. I also belive that it will hold up better in a crash and as long as you maintain it it's lifespan is just as long gone if not longer than moo
 
go with whatever is lighter .


on another note with D-Air suite how do i know if my suite is fully charged, and how often do you have to charge your suite
 
On D-Air suits, the system has a self-diagnostic check when it's turned on (by snapping the top buckle on the suit) and the LED indicators on the right arm of the suit will flash green if the system is good to go. Once the airbag is inflated in a crash, the suit needs to go back to the Dainese repair center in California to get a new bag and gas cyclinder installed, which costs about $250.

Regarding Kangaroo vs Cowhide suits, much of what was said above is true, Kangaroo is thinner for the same level of abrasion resistance as cowhide, so therefore a Kangaroo suit is lighter at the same level of abrasion resistance. Kangaroo is not "more" abrasion resistant than cowhide when it comes to a suit as a whole, it's just at the same level of abrasion resistance the kangaroo can be thinner. The big downside to Kangaroo is it has very little stretchability, which has a couple of negative implications. One is that if the suit doesn't fit perfectly, espeically if it's a little tight in one dimension or another, it will be very uncomfortable and won't "stretch to fit" like a cowhide suit generally will. The other is that if the suit doesn't fit perfectly, generally it will have to be larger rather than smaller since smaller won't stretch, and with it being larger than optimal the fabric is more likely to fold over and in a crash can be torn more easily. For the MotoGP guys, who get custom-tailored suits, Kangaroo is a perfect solution. For "off the rack", depends on how well it fits you.

There are of course many different quality levels with any kind of leather, and that can impact things significantly as well.

We started carrying the D-Air suits earlier this year and just had our first crash tester last weekend at a race. 100+ MPH lowside in the fastest turn at Motorsports Park Hastings, bike and rider slid of, hit the dirt and both tumbled several hundred feet out into runoff area. Bike was pretty much a yard sale of an S1000RR. Rider has a sprained left knee and otherwise no injuries. The airbag went off of course, and knowing others who have crashed in that same spot on the track over the years, I'm confident that suit saved significant injuries to colar bones and shoulders. No one comes out unscathed from a race pace crash in Turn 3, this is the first time I can recall, I'm very impressed with D-Air!

Regarding the A* system, I saw a direct comparison of it vs. D-Air when I attended the D-Air training this Spring. Granted, it was put on by Dainese so obviously biased, but the significant design differences between the D-Air and the A* were glaringly obvious and I'd have WAY more confidence in D-Air than anything else on the market. Dainese did this one right, tested for 8 years in world-championship level racing, so it's well-proven. The only opponents to the system are probably orthopedic surgeons! Ha ha!
 
Thank you for the in depth response , I notice my suite arm lights up in blue not green,do you know what that means, after 1 track day it starts to blink in blue then red and no more blinking
 
Thank you for the in depth response , I notice my suite arm lights up in blue not green,do you know what that means, after 1 track day it starts to blink in blue then red and no more blinking

Have you charged the battery in it?
 
Yes I did left my charger over night, and it's blinking blue when it's connected to the charger

While charging with the cable, it will flash red until there's about 90% charge, at which point it will start flashing green, and when fully charged it will flash blue.

With the power cable unplugged, after you snap the top connectors together, you should get two series of 5 quick flashes that indicate the battery level. Each of the 5 flashes will be either green or red. Every red flash indicates about 20% lost battery life. So 4 green and 1 red, would be about 80% battery life left, 2 green and 3 red, would be about 40% left, etc.

After the battery indication flashes are done, then it will give you system status. Blue flash followed by green means the system is ok but waiting on acquiring a GPS signal. Once the flashing is all blue, then everything's good to go. If there's ever red flashes at that point, that indicates there's a problem with the system.
 

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