DQS not working on downshifts

JBJR said:

Got ya.


Thanks for all of this! So helpful.

Well, sort of bad news. I did try to bypass the clutch switch, using the connector and splicing the wires together, and plugging it in to the system, and it did not fix the quickshifter problem. See pics. But maybe the connector itself is damaged? The switch itself did seem ok, but it's hard to say. I did test it with a multimeter, but I'm not sure if I did it correctly, as it was hard to get the prongs in there. So the results are inconclusive on if the swtich itself is bad. I have a good switch coming, so I'll try that when it gets here.

So good call on it being a broken wire somewhere in the line. As the switch maybe looked good, and the jump didn't work, I'm thinking that may be it. I can start that by looking for continuity in the two prongs where the clutch switch plugs in, right? Touch the multimeter to those two prongs? Trying to do it much further than that will be beyond my scope, and I'll have to have a Ducati guy run that down.

Yes, thanks for the reminder about starting it in gear. I of course could try that as as test, but as you note, it's a bad idea!

Click to expand...

i will check mine to be sure about signal with key on before i start lieing to you

JBJR said:

Got ya.


Thanks for all of this! So helpful.

Well, sort of bad news. I did try to bypass the clutch switch, using the connector and splicing the wires together, and plugging it in to the system, and it did not fix the quickshifter problem. See pics. But maybe the connector itself is damaged? The switch itself did seem ok, but it's hard to say. I did test it with a multimeter, but I'm not sure if I did it correctly, as it was hard to get the prongs in there. So the results are inconclusive on if the swtich itself is bad. I have a good switch coming, so I'll try that when it gets here.

So good call on it being a broken wire somewhere in the line. As the switch maybe looked good, and the jump didn't work, I'm thinking that may be it. I can start that by looking for continuity in the two prongs where the clutch switch plugs in, right? Touch the multimeter to those two prongs? Trying to do it much further than that will be beyond my scope, and I'll have to have a Ducati guy run that down.

Yes, thanks for the reminder about starting it in gear. I of course could try that as as test, but as you note, it's a bad idea!

Click to expand...

Ok so I took mine apart and checked
The coming from the ecu has a black and a white wire ..you can use two small pieces of wire inserted into the connector so you can get to the contacts..not to nig though you will stretch the connector out to much and it will not make contact when you reconnect it..

With key on...multimeter connected to both wires at clutch connector from ucu= 12.8..or battery voltage

Multimeter grnd connected to battery ground and multim red lead connected to white wire at the connector=12.8 or battery voltage

Set Multimeter to continuity check and connect ground connector to batt ground and red lead from multimeter to black wire at the connector from ecu = continuity beep.

If you get all that there's nothing wrong with your wiring and the signal is what it's supposed be and is getting to the ecu
At this point is the bbs .bad clutch switch . your actual switch at the shifter linkage.. ..which I would think is more likely because of the amount of pressure involved in activating and the heat in that area ..I added the side vent to get air to mine..it was cooked within a month of me getting it..at had already 2700 miles when I got it.. or the wires or connector going to the switch at the shifter linkage ...Have you checked the microswitch in the shifter linkage and wires

another thing you can do since you have the diagnostic.. go to the screen with the clutch switch that you posted..key on. try first with your switch connected..actuate it manually, it should switch while you watch it on the screen. if yes then the switch is good if not then do the test below
then again with key on.. switch disconnected. jump the wires at the connector. like in the pic i posted, wont hurt anything to jump them.. see if the state of the switch changes in diagnostic..if those two tests show a change in the state...if it does change ... then the above test proves the switch is bad at the clutch lever...if the state does change then the problem is at the bbs or the shifter switch or wires

Ugh. Clutch switch is actually good. I wasn’t able

1hander said:

View attachment 53096


Ok so I took mine apart and checked
The coming from the ecu has a black and a white wire ..you can use two small pieces of wire inserted into the connector so you can get to the contacts..not to nig though you will stretch the connector out to much and it will not make contact when you reconnect it..
With key on...multimeter connected to both wires at clutch connector from ucu= 12.8..or battery voltage

Multimeter grnd connected to battery ground and multim red lead connected to white wire at the connector=12.8 or battery voltage
Set Multimeter to continuity check and connect ground connector to batt ground and red lead from multimeter to black wire at the connector from ecu = continuity beep.

If you get all that there's nothing wrong with your wiring and the signal is what it's supposed be and is getting to the ecu
At this point is the bbs .bad clutch switch . your actual switch at the shifter linkage.. ..which I would think is more likely because of the amount of pressure involved in activating and the heat in that area ..I added the side vent to get air to mine..it was cooked within a month of me getting it..at had already 2700 miles when I got it.. or the wires or connector going to the switch at the shifter linkage ...Have you checked the microswitch in the shifter linkage and wires

Click to expand...

Ok, on your second test, multi ground to batter ground + multi red to connector white wire, I’m not getting a good read. Only like .03v, so I have a problem.

So what does that mean? That white wire has a break somewhere down stream?

Thanks again…

yes sir, either the wire has a break in it, or for some other reason its not getting the 12v it should be getting..i wonder if there is a fuse that feeds that circuit.

are you getting the same .03 if you connect the multimeter both leads to the black and white wires at the connector with key on

1hander said:

yes sir, either the wire has a break in it, or for some other reason its not getting the 12v it should be getting..i wonder if there is a fuse that feeds that circuit.

are you getting the same .03 if you connect the multimeter both leads to the black and white wires at the connector with key on

Click to expand...

Oh my gosh. I’m now getting the proper 12.6v on white. Maybe I wasn’t touching it correctly before. Sorry I’m bad at this.

1hander said:

View attachment 53096


Ok so I took mine apart and checked
The coming from the ecu has a black and a white wire ..you can use two small pieces of wire inserted into the connector so you can get to the contacts..not to nig though you will stretch the connector out to much and it will not make contact when you reconnect it..

With key on...multimeter connected to both wires at clutch connector from ucu= 12.8..or battery voltage

Multimeter grnd connected to battery ground and multim red lead connected to white wire at the connector=12.8 or battery voltage

Set Multimeter to continuity check and connect ground connector to batt ground and red lead from multimeter to black wire at the connector from ecu = continuity beep.

If you get all that there's nothing wrong with your wiring and the signal is what it's supposed be and is getting to the ecu
At this point is the bbs .bad clutch switch . your actual switch at the shifter linkage.. ..which I would think is more likely because of the amount of pressure involved in activating and the heat in that area ..I added the side vent to get air to mine..it was cooked within a month of me getting it..at had already 2700 miles when I got it.. or the wires or connector going to the switch at the shifter linkage ...Have you checked the microswitch in the shifter linkage and wires

another thing you can do since you have the diagnostic.. go to the screen with the clutch switch that you posted..key on. try first with your switch connected..actuate it manually, it should switch while you watch it on the screen. if yes then the switch is good if not then do the test below
then again with key on.. switch disconnected. jump the wires at the connector. like in the pic i posted, wont hurt anything to jump them.. see if the state of the switch changes in diagnostic..if those two tests show a change in the state...if it does change ... then the above test proves the switch is bad at the clutch lever...if the state does change then the problem is at the bbs or the shifter switch or wires

Click to expand...

And I DO have continuity. For some reason, my multi doesn’t beep, but it does go from “1” to close to zero.

no problem at all brother im red green color blind so you can imagine the wiring messes i get myself into..
also do a key OFF check voltage from black wire athe connector to batt red side and you have 12v with key off and key on.
so you have the proper voltage at the white wire
and you have continuity from batt grnd to black wire..your good there..
now lets see if the bbs is properly getting and processing the signal
by going to the screen of the clutch switch and looking for that change in state (box checked or unchecked) while you manually activate the switch...then by jumping the white and black wires...if yes then all is well with wiring..switch and bbs

JBJR said:

And I DO have continuity. For some reason, my multi doesn’t beep, but it does go from “1” to close to zero.

Click to expand...

Read what you said about thinking it’s the QS switch at linkage. I was thinking of hooking up the OEM unit and seeing that fixes it. Let me also inspect.

good deal man,

THIS IS THE WAY

1hander said:

no problem at all brother im red green color blind so you can imagine the wiring messes i get myself into..
also do a key OFF check voltage from black wire athe connector to batt red side and you have 12v with key off and key on.
so you have the proper voltage at the white wire
and you have continuity from batt grnd to black wire..your good there..
now lets see if the bbs is properly getting and processing the signal
by going to the screen of the clutch switch and looking for that change in state (box checked or unchecked) while you manually activate the switch...then by jumping the white and black wires...if yes then all is well with wiring..switch and bbs

Click to expand...

Just did power off continuity test. All good.

nice...definitely use the diagnostic to activate and check state, this will tell you the brains are good (the main stuff) then you can breathe a sigh of relief that its not the bbs LOL..then only thing left is the stuff at the bottom the shifter linkage is subjected to a shitload of heat.. i susect thats part of the reason ducati chose an analog switch and not something more sensitive to heat. but well see.. carry on carry on

1hander said:

no problem at all brother im red green color blind so you can imagine the wiring messes i get myself into..
also do a key OFF check voltage from black wire athe connector to batt red side and you have 12v with key off and key on.
so you have the proper voltage at the white wire
and you have continuity from batt grnd to black wire..your good there..
now lets see if the bbs is properly getting and processing the signal
by going to the screen of the clutch switch and looking for that change in state (box checked or unchecked) while you manually activate the switch...then by jumping the white and black wires...if yes then all is well with wiring..switch and bbs

Click to expand...

I’m about to try jumping it and using the OBStar to test the clutch as youve asked.

you know what, i just realized that the title says dqs noto working on DOWNSHIFTS...
if its working on upshift then theres a 95 percent chance its the switch or the signal wire going to the ecu from the switch (more likely switch itself)

also see of the obdstar has a data screen like the one for the clutch..if it does you should be able to see the shifter linkage being actuated in both directions

1hander said:

also see of the obdstar has a data screen like the one for the clutch..if it does you should be able to see the shifter linkage being actuated in both directions

Click to expand...

I did. Thank you.

I got it!!! So… it WAS a bad clutch switch. BUT it was intermittently bad. It was getting stuck, so tough to diagnose. So that’s why all the crazy readings and thinking it was bad… then good… then bad.

I was able to jump it back together and make the switch work, at least temporarily. And the quick shifter worked — both up and down. Man, auto blip, it’s amazing.

So I’m waiting for a replacement switch to come

Man, thanks so much for all the help here. And also everyone else who helped.

Can’t wait to get this beast on the track.

nice bud...

PS: I have -1/0 gearing, and no problems downshifting. But it was just a 15 minute test. I reset and recalibrated, as instructed. I guess time with tell. Also: on tall Dunlop race slicks.

happy for you man... i wish my repair was going as well... fuqing ridiculous front brake on my v4.. soft soft soft

1hander said:

happy for you man... i wish my repair was going as well... fuqing ridiculous front brake on my v4.. soft soft soft

Click to expand...

Thank you. That’s so funny you say that, I know it’s a different thread, but I was just about to post on my race bike build thread that this front brake is so unacceptable. I mean, compared to OEM brakes 20 years ago, it’s amazing. But it just won’t work for a race bike. It has about 30 mm of free play before the brake engages. Horrible feel.

I’m ordering a Brembo 19 x 18 MK2 right now. Get them at kurvygirl.com. It’s not for a street bike, but for a race bike, it’s awesome. It has such great feel. Julie sends you a whole kit with titanium bolt, tygon and clamps.

JBJR said:

Thank you. That’s so funny you say that, I know it’s a different thread, but I was just about to post on my race bike build thread that this front brake is so unacceptable. I mean, compared to OEM brakes 20 years ago, it’s amazing. But it just won’t work for a race bike. It has about 30 mm of free play before the brake engages. Horrible feel.

I’m ordering a Brembo 19 x 18 MK2 right now. Get them at kurvygirl.com. It’s not for a street bike, but for a race bike, it’s awesome. It has such great feel. Julie sends you a whole kit with titanium bolt, tygon and clamps.

Click to expand...

im happy to hear yet another person say the same thing., i find it unacceptable even for street use.