DQS not working on downshifts

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bp_SFV4 said:
Returning the bike to OEM gearing was offered as advice in this thread many, many pages ago.
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Coming into this late, but we had similar issues with a V2 our fix was tire calibration combined with proper dash computer settings. changed gearing did not matter.

With certain things turned off/on at the wrong levels confuses the computer and it fks over the down shifting, up worked fine. rear abs was jacked up as well, settings fixed it all.

Your miles may vary.
 
bp_SFV4 said:
The physical QS could be the same, but the ECUs are not.
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Understood, but their programming is similar, and if you make what you think is a simple adjustment, you throw the required balance of settings off.

correct QS and ECUs are not the same, but how they all work together is a ducati thing alone. Just throwing ideas off the wall.

We played with this issue for 6 weeks, buddy was ready to sell the bike because he thought he had some kind of gremlin. After a few settings changes, bike was back to normal.

Your miles may vary, but it would be worth it to set it back to factory specs on settings and try it.
 
outhouse said:
but their programming is similar
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What knowledge of their programming do you have to state this?

Setting it back to OEM was suggested and revealed to be the fix many, many pages ago.

Saying two different brand ECUs sold by the same motorcycle manufacturer, in two different bikes "is a Ducati thing alone" doesn't make sense.

Miles don't vary. 5,280 feet is always a mile.
 
bp_SFV4 said:
Saying two different brand ECUs sold by the same motorcycle manufacturer, in two different bikes "is a Ducati thing alone" doesn't make sense.
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Most of their hardware sending information to the ECU is similar. And they have similar programming unique to the brand. windows is windows regardless of AMD or intel cpu's



bp_SFV4 said:
Miles don't vary. 5,280 feet is always a mile.
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Your bike just hates its fkn owner LOL

bp_SFV4 said:
Setting it back to OEM was suggested and revealed to be the fix many, many pages ago.
Click to expand...
so what your saying is im right, but I didnt read through all the pages of BS wasting my time ?
 
bp_SFV4 said:
All of my test rides have been without the side and lower fairings.

You have to move the clutch lever pretty far before the lever acts on the clutch switch. At one point my DQS wasn't working up or down and it was a bad clutch switch. When tested with a multimeter, the switch was always closed.

Some combination of resetting the DQS adaptives, doing the gear position re-learn procedure, clearing then re-doing the tire/final drive calibration seems to have fixed my particular problem, which was only a problem after the bike went to the dealer. I still need a longer test ride to verify its working as it should.
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Sorry for such a dumb question, but how do you test the clutch switch with a multimeter? Though we activated the software so that DQS is now "live," and shows up on the dash as such, it's still not working. Neither up, nor down. I did drop the bike when I first got it, bent a clip on and knocked off the clutch sensor switch. So reading through this topic, I'm thinking (and hoping) that it's just a bad clutch switch.

Yes, I've changed gearing (-1 front). And tires sizes. And yes, I've reset the adaptives and also calibrated things. As it's now working at all, I don't think that I have a calibration issue like you had. But I do understand that the -1 front set up is problematic, so I do plan on changing it back to stock as a next step / check. I have checked the voltage for idle, upshift and downshift, and am getting the correct values.
 
It’s hard to check with a multimeter as it’s difficult to get to the pins. All that’s needed though is to set the meter to continuity check, the one where it beeps if you touch the probes together, and place a probe on each terminal for the clutch switch. When you activate the switch (gently) the meter should beep or stop beeping depending if the switch is normally open or normally closed. Alternatively, if the V2 is similar to the V4 you can use the OBDStar to check it. If you go into the ECU menu, I think the submenu is live data or live state, something to that effect, and if you select all and scroll you can see all of the switches and sensors. The clutch switch should be in there as are the brake switches etc.
 
bp_SFV4 said:
It’s hard to check with a multimeter as it’s difficult to get to the pins. All that’s needed though is to set the meter to continuity check, the one where it beeps if you touch the probes together, and place a probe on each terminal for the clutch switch. When you activate the switch (gently) the meter should beep or stop beeping depending if the switch is normally open or normally closed. Alternatively, if the V2 is similar to the V4 you can use the OBDStar to check it. If you go into the ECU menu, I think the submenu is live data or live state, something to that effect, and if you select all and scroll you can see all of the switches and sensors. The clutch switch should be in there as are the brake switches etc.
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Ok, super helpful. Yeah, let me try OBDStar, as so far, it's been pretty much the same for the V2 as the V4. Does the bike have to be running? And wouldn't it show as a fault code if the clutch switch was disconnected or broken? I guess I can try and check.
 
bp_SFV4 said:
Key on, engine off. There wouldn’t be a fault code, or at least when mine went bad there wasn’t.
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Strange, there wouldn’t be a fault code. I feel like that’s something that’s important to the system that should be recognized if not working properly.
 
OK, so if I’m reading this correctly, the system thinks the clutch switch is engaged. I.e., the lever is pulled in — correct?
 

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bp_SFV4 said:
Yes.

There's not an error code associated because it's only a two wire switch. It's either on or off. If you unplugged it, it would just be as if it was in the off position.
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OK, awesome. So maybe this is the problem. Or at least a part of it.
 
bp_SFV4 said:
Yes.

There's not an error code associated because it's only a two wire switch. It's either on or off. If you unplugged it, it would just be as if it was in the off position.
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Can I unplug it and check the quick shifter? Or will it cause another problem? I’m not sure if it can run with it simply disconnect or needs need some type of bypass switch or something.
 
no...if the computer thinks the clutch is pressed then theres no need for it to auto blip or cut ignition for down shift, pressing the clutch lever bypasses both functions even if they are activated in the menu. also keeps 2 cylinder mode from activating

if you want to trick the computer into thinking the clutch lever is still unpressed then short the two wires together, it will see the clutch lever as unpressed ... if the switch is the only the problem the DQS should start to work properly again.

the switch being stuck in the open position most certainly is a problem..could be the only problem...could be only 1 of the problems,
another thing that would show up as a pressed clutch lever would be if one of the two wires that go to the switch on the clutch is cut somewhere, but in order to check tthat you would need to check continuity on both ends of the 2 wires.. at the switch end and at the end where it goes into the computer and course you need a pinout diagram
although it looks like you may get lucky and your switch just broke internally or the metal lever on the switch is bent in a way that keeps the switch activated even with the clutch lever in undepressed position. the clutch switch has a little metal lever on it if i remember correctly and i can be bent and adjusted.

to check the switch, just use continuity on your multimeter on the two contacts, if the switch is still mounted on the clutch lever ..., with the clutch not depressed the switch will be engaged and you will have continuity..if you depress the clutch lever the circuit will be broken and no continuity. you should be able to hear it click audibly its pretty loud..if its not clicking, its a bad switch. if the circuit is not broken when you depress the clutch lever its a bad switch or the metal tab needs adjusting.

also sometimes that metal tab breaks off which will show as an engaged clutch lever to the computer

also keep in mind that if the clutch switch circuit is open,unplugged or open circuit.... it thinks the clutch lever is depressed and the bike will attempt to start even if its in gear,,. so if its on the kickstand ...and in gear, and you hit the start button, it will roll off the kickstand and land on its side.
 
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JBJR said:
Can I unplug it and check the quick shifter? Or will it cause another problem? I’m not sure if it can run with it simply disconnect or needs need some type of bypass switch or something.
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Yes, you can just unplug it and check your QS.

The only potential side effect is you can't start the bike if it's in gear. If you kill it you need to get it to neutral before you can restart it.
 
Got ya.
1hander said:
no...if the computer thinks the clutch is pressed then theres no need for it to auto blip or cut ignition for down shift, pressing the clutch lever bypasses both functions even if they are activated in the menu. also keeps 2 cylinder mode from activating

if you want to trick the computer into thinking the clutch lever is still unpressed then short the two wires together, it will see the clutch lever as unpressed ... if the switch is the only the problem the DQS should start to work properly again.

the switch being stuck in the open position most certainly is a problem..could be the only problem...could be only 1 of the problems,
another thing that would show up as a pressed clutch lever would be if one of the two wires that go to the switch on the clutch is cut somewhere, but in order to check tthat you would need to check continuity on both ends of the 2 wires.. at the switch end and at the end where it goes into the computer and course you need a pinout diagram
although it looks like you may get lucky and your switch just broke internally or the metal lever on the switch is bent in a way that keeps the switch activated even with the clutch lever in undepressed position. the clutch switch has a little metal lever on it if i remember correctly and i can be bent and adjusted.

to check the switch, just use continuity on your multimeter on the two contacts, if the switch is still mounted on the clutch lever ..., with the clutch not depressed the switch will be engaged and you will have continuity..if you depress the clutch lever the circuit will be broken and no continuity. you should be able to hear it click audibly its pretty loud..if its not clicking, its a bad switch. if the circuit is not broken when you depress the clutch lever its a bad switch or the metal tab needs adjusting.

also sometimes that metal tab breaks off which will show as an engaged clutch lever to the computer

also keep in mind that if the clutch switch circuit is open,unplugged or open circuit.... it thinks the clutch lever is depressed and the bike will attempt to start even if its in gear,,. so if its on the kickstand ...and in gear, and you hit the start button, it will roll off the kickstand and land on its side.
Click to expand...

Thanks for all of this! So helpful.

Well, sort of bad news. I did try to bypass the clutch switch, using the connector and splicing the wires together, and plugging it in to the system, and it did not fix the quickshifter problem. See pics. But maybe the connector itself is damaged? The switch itself did seem ok, but it's hard to say. I did test it with a multimeter, but I'm not sure if I did it correctly, as it was hard to get the prongs in there. So the results are inconclusive on if the swtich itself is bad. I have a good switch coming, so I'll try that when it gets here.

So good call on it being a broken wire somewhere in the line. As the switch maybe looked good, and the jump didn't work, I'm thinking that may be it. I can start that by looking for continuity in the two prongs where the clutch switch plugs in, right? Touch the multimeter to those two prongs? Trying to do it much further than that will be beyond my scope, and I'll have to have a Ducati guy run that down.

Yes, thanks for the reminder about starting it in gear. I of course could try that as as test, but as you note, it's a bad idea!
 

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