Ducati 1299 Suspension and Handling Settings

Tire pressure very much depends on the rider's preference and the roads. I only do canyon and county/farm road riding and do not mind sacrificing a shorter tire life for a bit more grip. I prefer 31 front and 30 rear.

Is there a topic with any more opinions ? The elusive perfect setting hey! The road bikes should be fairly straight forward (yeah) , match your weight with the correct springs then worry about getting sag numbers within the numbers suggested already here, then dial in comp and rebound. Softer is better than harder , the springs need to work and let the hydraulics control the speed of the work.
Higher end track work is another thing. My 1299 is track/race only, and as good as it handles , i'm now struggling with set up, tire wear etc. Going faster on this beast for some reason ?? The Marzzochi/Sachs seem to me to be a bit limited when pushed hard. The adjusters dont seem to make much of a difference, or am I missing something? My other bikes , a 1098 , EBR , and DB8 have had Ohlins or Matris suspension and have had good response to adjustment
I'm looking at kitting out the 1299 with Ohlins or Matris or Mupo . More interested in the last two. Fire away boys!!!!!

I have just fitted Ktech suspension to my 1299 and had it on track at Estoril.

DDS shock (fixed mode on the linkage)
IDS fork cartridges

Very impressed by it.

Bike handles very well and is also comfy on road. Settings were as per k techs suggested for my weight

anyone have experience with making a stock electronic shock a non electronic dampened shock for a base model??

vcyclenut said:

anyone have experience with making a stock electronic shock a non electronic dampened shock for a base model??

Click to expand...

Yup! We offer that service at Ducati Omaha, just contact our service department and they usually have all of the parts in stock to do it with.

I have the 2016 1299 base model, and the suspension components are stock.

I weigh 270 lb. With helmet, jacket, gloves, boots and my ever present Kriega 30 backpack lets say 300 lb.

Front shocks:
compression: all the way in
rebound: all the way in
preload: all the way in

Rear shock:
compression: all the way in
rebound: all the way in
preload: 12 threads showing

The front end still dives too much when I brake. It's a sharp dive because hte fork springs are too light for me.
The 1199 fork springs and 1299 fork springs have identical OEM part numbers, so they are the same. I have ordered Ohlins OEM 1199 replacement fork springs for the 50mm Marzocchi's in 10.5 N/mm to replace the stock 9 N/mm ones. I may look into heavier fork oil, too.

Set mine this past weekend.
From how it was purchased, 1299s

Front: 70mm sag (woa)
Rear: 30mm sag

Adjusted to 40 front and left the rear at 30.

Rider fully geared about 205lbs. Also prefer tires at 31 front 30 rear.

My best setting...for smoothness on the street

Set your preload correctly first
Sport mode
wheelie control=(max no wheelie)
Engine braking=(no engine braking)

140 pound rider... ride middle pack in advanced track days, I am looking for some suggestions. I am in Japan so the language barrier is always an obstacle and not very many tuning options here unfortunately.

What is the recommendation on sag settings on the 1299S? Just bought a used one and would like to set the suspension for me.

Also what are you guys using on the preload adjusters so you don’t destroy the blue finish?

I reached out to Dave Moss above and it was around $70 for a FaceTime consultation. He’ll help you get everything dialed in right

we really need a suspension expert on this forum

You might aim for 30-40 mm (front and rear) for typical everyday driving (street use). More aggressive riding may call for 30-35 mm (front) and 25-35 mm (rear). Track bikes will likely take it a step further. Check the free sag in the rear (often a problem)... should have around 10-15 mm. Free sag in the front is going to be whatever's built into the fork. Apply a piece of electrical tape to the inside of the socket to protect the finish on the pre-load adjusters.

You should check the sag numbers after the first session. Everything heats up a lot and there will be a lot more sag hot than cold. For the track I’m running 30 in the front and 25 in the back. Using manual rebound and compression, will post a pic of those settings. I weigh 85kgs inc leathers, boots etc


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This may be off the topic of topic on suspension set up and more on the lines of suspension install. 2 weeks ago I installed the Ohlins DU466 rear shock on my 1299. And tonight I installed a set of Ohlins FGRT 203 forks on the bike. Im just waiting on a new CNC racing top triple clamp to arrive because the Ducabike top triple clamp is squared off at the top and wont allow the Motocorsa tear drop reservoirs to mount. The ducabike are squared off at the top and the pinch bolt is actually vertical unlike the AEM and CNC Racing top clamp which is have the pinch bolts sort of on the inside allowing the top clamp to be rounded. And Im waiting for a new podium racing front axle to arrive along a set of podium racing swing arm chain adjuster bolts.

Anyway here is my question. When I removed the stock OEM front end I forgot to measure the distance of the top of the outer fork leg to the top of the upper tree clamp. The Ohlins instruction manual says that the measurements should be the same. Can anyone help me out and let me know what the measurements are of the stock outer fork leg to the top of the upper tree clamp? Here is a pic of the Ohlins FGRT 203 front forks I installed tonight and just tightened them up together for the time being until the other parts arrive.

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Thank you for the pics with the measurements

Blast from past, but why set more sag to fork than rear shock?

Forks have more travel than shocks.