Ducati 1299 Suspension and Handling Settings

wilkson said:

Keep in mind for people with the base 1299 . These forks bottom out with 33 mm left of fork tube left showing . So using a zip tie around the fork tube you should allow extra.

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Not meaning to doubt this, but where did you find this? I'm getting close in the braking zones..

TurboLag said:

Not meaning to doubt this, but where did you find this? I'm getting close in the braking zones..

Click to expand...

I found it on my tape measure

You're running a modded Base Marzocchi fork? Performing ok?

Redid my setup yesterday, ended up at 3 clicks out rebound on the forks with 2.5 turns in on preload from where I was in order to get 34.5mm sag. I don't need that high accuracy, but that's what I got. Also went from 21mm to 26mm rear sag, still need to test and revise shock rebound before the values are worth anything..

Also, I confirmed Wilkson's observation at about 33mm left on the slider/inner tube when bottoming by measuring from full droop..

Pilot Weight 190 pounds

1299 S

The front was too soft so I went to max spring preload and turn counter clock wise like this.
Front spring 5 turns CCW ( was 12 initially )

Rear
setting : FLAT
the rear was way too hard

so I did the following : reduce the spring preload by 2,5 turns
I rose the rear as well to have an easier to turn bike ( not necessary if you stay on roads )

so the RACE parameters for the DES are as per the attached picture
The Sport settings as per the picture give good settings for bumpy tracks

this gives gives the bike a much better behavior

So.... I have a 1299S and I like all the settings in Sport mode but like the throttle response of Race mode.
I'd rather modify Race mode because I need Sport mode to stay as is for heavier traffic commutes. I've set the Race Mode's ABS, EBC, DWC, & DTC to mirror Sport, but not sure of the DES settings.
I'm wanting to set Race Mode's suspension settings, DES, like Sport's suspension settings.
What should my customized Race suspension, DES, settings be?

Fork:? (Softest, Soft, Default, Hard, Hardest)
Dampner:? (Softest, Soft, Default, Hard, Hardest)
Shock:? (Softest, Soft, Default, Hard, Hardest)

apeluv said:

So.... I have a 1299S and I like all the settings in Sport mode but like the throttle response of Race mode.
I'd rather modify Race mode because I need Sport mode to stay as is for heavier traffic commutes. I've set the Race Mode's ABS, EBC, DWC, & DTC to mirror Sport, but not sure of the DES settings.
I'm wanting to set Race Mode's suspension settings, DES, like Sport's suspension settings.
What should my customized Race suspension, DES, settings be?

Fork:? (Softest, Soft, Default, Hard, Hardest)
Dampner:? (Softest, Soft, Default, Hard, Hardest)
Shock:? (Softest, Soft, Default, Hard, Hardest)

Click to expand...

It would depend on the track you are at. On a really bumpy track, I woud think Default might be best; on a really smooth track, I would try harder and hardest and try the combinations of those two settings, by changing the front and the rear independently. i.e., try harder in front and hardest rear and see if it works better than hardest and hardest.. then try the reverse.. hardest in front and harder rear.. Lap times and chassis feel will let you know what works best for you.

80shilling said:

It would depend on the track you are at. On a really bumpy track, I woud think Default might be best; on a really smooth track, I would try harder and hardest and try the combinations of those two settings, by changing the front and the rear independently. i.e., try harder in front and hardest rear and see if it works better than hardest and hardest.. then try the reverse.. hardest in front and harder rear.. Lap times and chassis feel will let you know what works best for you.

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Sorry.. I should add. I don't do track days on this bike.. Only commuting on the street.
So far I have Default for front and Dampner and softer in rear.

what is the stock rear shock length eye to eye on the 1299S?
I hear 1199S is about 309mm, is 1299S the same?

apeluv said:

Sorry.. I should add. I don't do track days on this bike.. Only commuting on the street.
So far I have Default for front and Dampner and softer in rear.

Click to expand...

For my commute, I just put the front and rear in softer and leave it.. The streets in San Francisco are just asphalt bomb-sites and I need all the bump absorbtion I can get. I also run my sag on the softer side for my commute and then stiffen it up for weekend rides and even tighter for the track: 40mm front and 30mm rear for my commute.. That plus the softer setting on the Dynamic suspension works great for me at 195 lbs.

Cheers.

you just copy/ past your suspension settings in sport mode to the Race mode

Don't forget that the DWC and ABS are not set the same in race mode .

it would be simpler though to just change the engine map in the sport mode. put it on High and that's it.

Dear All,

I just bought a 1299 S and I use the bike for twisty canyon hairpin rides and maybe in the future track days (DRE at Misano).
Before I had an 899 but sometimes I had the feeling I missed a bit of torque.
I drive mostly in Germany, mostly in the Eifel area, and once in a while on the Nordschleife.

I am with suit, boots and helmet around 89 kg.
On my previous 899 the pre-load to adjust the sag was at the bottom of the fork.
On my 1299 S it is on the top, the blue nut (32 mm).
I have a few questions, maybe noob questions but I want to be sure.
When I turn the blue nut (looking from the top) clock-wise will the tension increase or decrease?

I have it now on "full out" and then 6 turns in clockwise (factory setting). This results in a sag of +/-25 mm............ fully packed with my gear. I read on the forum it should be near to 35 mm.
When I adjust it to 4 turns in it is also around 25 mm.
Should I first decrease the compression and rebound to full open in the DES menu in the cockpit?

It is cold now overhere 10 C maybe the oil is very viscous in the fork and cannot be correctly adjusted while cold?

The rebound and compression settings are the same like "80Shilling" and that feels good.
While hard braking I still have 30mm left before it bottoms up (tie wrap).
Let me know what you all think.

Greetings from Maastricht area,
The Netherlands
Martin

mquaedflieg said:

Dear All,

I just bought a 1299 S and I use the bike for twisty canyon hairpin rides and maybe in the future track days (DRE at Misano).
Before I had an 899 but sometimes I had the feeling I missed a bit of torque.
I drive mostly in Germany, mostly in the Eifel area, and once in a while on the Nordschleife.

I am with suit, boots and helmet around 89 kg.
On my previous 899 the pre-load to adjust the sag was at the bottom of the fork.
On my 1299 S it is on the top, the blue nut (32 mm).
I have a few questions, maybe noob questions but I want to be sure.
When I turn the blue nut (looking from the top) clock-wise will the tension increase or decrease?

I have it now on "full out" and then 6 turns in clockwise (factory setting). This results in a sag of +/-25 mm............ fully packed with my gear. I read on the forum it should be near to 35 mm.
When I adjust it to 4 turns in it is also around 25 mm.
Should I first decrease the compression and rebound to full open in the DES menu in the cockpit?

It is cold now overhere 10 C maybe the oil is very viscous in the fork and cannot be correctly adjusted while cold?

The rebound and compression settings are the same like "80Shilling" and that feels good.
While hard braking I still have 30mm left before it bottoms up (tie wrap).
Let me know what you all think.

Greetings from Maastricht area,
The Netherlands
Martin

Click to expand...

Turning the nut clockwise INCREASES spring preload.

The 38mm figure that Ohlins gives, is the difference between the forks fully unloaded (i.e. get two friends to help you and pick the front end of the bike off the ground so the forks are at full extension) and with the rider on the bike. So measure the fully extended forks, then put the bike back on the ground and measure the static sag (that's the bike supporting only it's own weight with no rider), then YOU get on the bike and have your friends support the bike and measure again. The TOTAL sag should be 38mm (the difference between fully extended forks and the measurement with you on the bike (you can ignore the static sag figure, unless you are way out of range on weight, or can't seem to get total sag correct)..

Do the same at the rear; lift the bike off the ground to allow the rear shock to extend fully and measure; then set down on the ground and measure with you on it.. 28mm should be the figure.

Yes, the cold DOES affect how your suspension works. It has been 22 - 30 Fahrenheit here lately ( -5 to -1 C) and I notice my bike rides really rough until the fork and shock get some miles on them; the oil is very viscous when cold and doesn't flow as well as when it is hot. The fact that the bike sets the rebound and compression damping for you (unless you go to manual mode) hopefully means that the bike's computer is smart enough to compensate for differences in viscosity, but it doesn't feel like it does on these really cold days.

If you go to the racetrack, re-measure your settings after you have done some fast laps and make sure they look good, because the oil in the forks and shock will be far hotter than you can get it on the street.

Cheers.

Dear 80Shilling,

Thanks for the quick reply, it is clear to me.
Will check it like you wrote tomorrow, I think the total sag is now close to app. 33 mm, when it will be warmer it would come close, I guess.
I watched the youtube capture of Dave Moss masterclass and I have the bike balanced quite well now with your settings.
When the weather allows I will ride a few fast laps, probably have to wait till March.......


Cheers,

Martin

Dear 80Shilling,

Just a quick update.

Today I set the sag in 2 positions,
1. 38-40 mm (2 turns in only) total sag, forks nearly bottoms up (10 mm left) while hard braking and the bike tends to under steer (60 km/h hairpin coming from 150 km/h, front wheel want to roll towards outside of the corner).
When I trail brake into the hairpin it generates less under steering, seems logical with less pre load?

Rest of the settings like you proposed in Fixed and rebound and compression like on the first page of this thread.
In DYN mode "default" the bike needs more effort to turn and the front is not calm at all and tends to also understeer.

2. 35 mm total sag (5,5 turns in) bike is neutral while cornering in both in trail braking and brakes completely released while entering the hairpin.
Bike is even reasonably calm and stable in DYN "default, I liked the 35 mm sag setting the most for hard canyon rides, I do not know what it means for the track, let's wait for spring. (30 mm left before bottoming up)

By the way the rear fixed at 28 mm sag in both above described settings.
Means seeing 4.5 to 4.75 threads on the shock.
(With my total weight of +/- 88 kg in full gear.)
Tire pressure front 2.25 bar and 2.1 in the rear.

Greetings Martin

mquaedflieg said:

Dear 80Shilling,

Just a quick update.

Today I set the sag in 2 positions,
1. 38-40 mm (2 turns in only) total sag, forks nearly bottoms up (10 mm left) while hard braking and the bike tends to under steer (60 km/h hairpin coming from 150 km/h, front wheel want to roll towards outside of the corner).
When I trail brake into the hairpin it generates less under steering, seems logical with less pre load?

Rest of the settings like you proposed in Fixed and rebound and compression like on the first page of this thread.
In DYN mode "default" the bike needs more effort to turn and the front is not calm at all and tends to also understeer.

2. 35 mm total sag (5,5 turns in) bike is neutral while cornering in both in trail braking and brakes completely released while entering the hairpin.
Bike is even reasonably calm and stable in DYN "default, I liked the 35 mm sag setting the most for hard canyon rides, I do not know what it means for the track, let's wait for spring. (30 mm left before bottoming up)

By the way the rear fixed at 28 mm sag in both above described settings.
Means seeing 4.5 to 4.75 threads on the shock.
(With my total weight of +/- 88 kg in full gear.)
Tire pressure front 2.25 bar and 2.1 in the rear.

Greetings Martin

Click to expand...

This seems a bit odd to me. I am 85kg in full gear, quite close to your weight. With the stock springs on 1299S.

To get 38mm total sag for the front, I had to go from all out, 9 in (clockwise) on the forks. As for the rear, 28mm total sag, 3 threads showing.

Am I missing something here?

Do not know where the difference comes from, it is just what I measured. Singapore is in the tropics and the Netherlands has a colder climate, maybe thicker oil when fork is cold (but I am not an suspension specialist); I just like the settings now, they give me confidence to attack a corner.

But Anyway, I measured at least 3 times, I do not want to argue about 1 mm.

Just to be sure I just weight myself again with all gear:
Boots Dainese Axial Pro in
Leather suit Dainese D|air +Dainese undersuit and Dainese sutto tutto grinner
Gloves Dainese full metal
and Arai GP7
But I am actually 90 Kg, total weight, sorry.......2 kg more.
Are you measuring your sag with a full fuel tank and maybe a larger non stock radiator (more cooling fluid).
Mine is measured with 50% of fuel......this could be quickly 8 kg.
1299 S (December 2015, model year 2016)

Hi Guys,
Im about to pick up my 2016 1299S and need a hand with suspension setup.

I weigh 98kg with out gear. Majority of riding will be on the street with the occasional track day. Im an experienced rider and like to ride to my ability in the national park or up the old road but need some advise on how best to set this machine up.

Thanks in advance

How do i manually change a 2016 Panigale 1299 base model suspension settings to help lower the bike so my wife doesn't have to tippy toe so much and what tools do I need?

Do you have picture illustration of where to adjust?

And what should the tire pressure be for both tires?

Alpha Male said:

How do i manually change a 2016 Panigale 1299 base model suspension settings to help lower the bike so my wife doesn't have to tippy toe so much and what tools do I need?

Do you have picture illustration of where to adjust?

And what should the tire pressure be for both tires?

Click to expand...

If you let all the air out of both tyres that would help her heaps and you wouldnt need to change the suspension at all