Exhaust Flapper Valve Issues

Shawn said:

I would be interested in that. That way I would just run the slip-on's. pretty sweet. Shawn

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mig1199 said:

Ok guys!!!! HERE IT IS FINALLY!!!!!! I removed the cable on the Flapper butterfly valve under my Panigale's swingarm as mentioned in my previous post. I just simply pushed the valve's outer ring downward which is on the left hand side of the valve, thereby, giving me slack on the cable...THEN, I simply pulled the cable (with the help of a small flat head screw driver) OUT OF ITS SOCKET...and viola! It came off easy...

NOW the Good news is....I used my bike for 30 minutes and the bike's muffler is much noisier now! Its a healthier sounding vtwin! Love it! As you now get the same Vtwin boom in all rev range! No engine check light too, as I left the cable still connected to the actuator valve servo...so the ECU thinks its still connected to my mechanical flapper valve down below. DONE!!!!

All is ok! You can all try it. I dont feel any flat spot. Just a better, louder exhaust note! Man, with this set-up...you dont need to spend for an aftermarket exhaust anymore...it is now LOUD all the time!

You can also test the exhaust note manually now. Simply start the bike (do this when the engine is cold)...while idling, (wear gloves) and with your index finger you can force close and open the valve with your finger and you will hear the exhaust note change. The valve is spring loaded to automatically stay open..so once you let go... it stays open. No cable connected! Perfect!!!!

Informed some of my Panigale riding buddies, who still have their stock exhausts, about my simple mod! They will do the same, and some have asked me to help them do this 2minute job.

Hope this info helps!

Miguel Bichara
Philippines
Happy 1199 Panigale "S" w/ABS owner!!!

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spinkick said:

I thought that the slip ons eliminate the whole flapper assembly?

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nick1199 said:

can you post a pic of where it is? From reading that i can't picture it (maybe that's cause i haven't picked up my bike yet). But would still like to see.

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spinkick said:

I thought that the slip ons eliminate the whole flapper assembly?

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mig1199 said:

Slip-ons don't eliminate the flapper valve assembly. The Flapper valve is still connected to the bike's original exhaust system piping/plumbing. The slip-on unit piping starts PASSED the flapper valve...

When you purchase a slip-on...it comes with a Y-Pipe tubing and the unrestricted aftermarket race mufflers. The slip-on unit's manual instructs you to remove the CABLE and the SERVO ACTUATOR MOTOR and comes with a PLUG to take the place of that Servo Motor Actuator assembly... this is to prevent Check Engine Light to turn on. Lastly, the slip-on also comes with a USB Flash Drive which you insert into the bike's own plug and download new mapping using the bike's switches. No laptop needed, No dyno tuning etc... That simple.

So the Mechanical Flapper valve is still in place when slip-ons are installed BUT its left always open as there is no cable attached to it anymore and is spring loaded to always stay open no matter what revs you give it.

Now a full system is a different story. The whole exhaust piping or plumbing is replaced, thereby Physically ELIMINATING the flapper valve. Again, with a full-system you receive a USB flash drive that has mapping set for that full system.

Miguel

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nick1199 said:

can you post a pic of where it is? From reading that i can't picture it (maybe that's cause i haven't picked up my bike yet). But would still like to see.

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mig1199 said:

Attached are the photos of the location of Flapper Valve on the 1199. Also Photos of the cable dislodged from the flapper valve mechanism...thus allowing the flapper valve to stay open ALWAYS.

1st photo from left is the actual location of flapper valve viewed from the right hand side of the bike. Y-pipe is below the flapper valve mechanism.
2nd and 3rd photos show the dislodged cable from the flapper valve.

Hope this info helps.

Miguel
Philippines

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doctorj said:

Removed cable from flapper valve also, no codes and runs a ton better, flat spot gone in race mode.

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spinkick said:

Those cats have to get really hot. I wonder if its part of the heat issue or just that its just a big motor with no frame and the heat is just a fact of life. I wonder if removing the coolant and replacing it with mostly (distilled) water would help things

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doctorj said:

Removed cable from flapper valve also, no codes and runs a ton better, flat spot gone in race mode.

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mig1199 said:

Must never use plain distilled water as water's boiling point is much lower than water mixed with coolant. In short, plain water boils faster BUT water mixed with a 60/40 ratio or 50/50 ratio of coolant has a higher boiling point, preventing boil over.

There is a coolant called ENGINE ICE that is poured directly into radiators which brings down engine temp by a few degrees....this replaces the usual Ethylene Glycol antifreeze coolant that is on our Bikes and Automobiles. I will drain my coolant and use this ENGINE ICE as temperatures here the Philippines range from 22-33C..which makes an already hot riding Panigale even hotter.

Miguel

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Phil said:

tween gooood! will do so too. funny thing is, I detected a slight hickup betweek 4 and 5 k rpm...
for the noise - i'd like it to be a little quieter in the whole range? maybe I am getting old ;-)

(stock cans)

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2012DUCATI1199 said:

Phil , I think I've read that the change in noise is the flap valve closing. Just unhook the cable like they mention above , and you should be good to go. Valve stays open and your pipes stay loud.

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