Exhaust Flapper Valve Issues

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Are we missing something here?

On my Daytona it was the same thing, annoying flapper valve cut down sound and was an annoying maintenance issue, so a lot of people disconnected it - BUT! We were also fortunate to have the ability to use a $10 USB cable off of Ebay to connect to our diagnostic port and use freeware to connect to the ECU and disable anything we wanted including the flapper valve, so the ECU would KNOW it's disabled, and run accordingly. Otherwise it would throw a CEL.

What I'm getting at is, does the ECU calibrate how the engine runs based on the position of the flapper valve at all?? If it does then I wonder if a dealership can go in and tell the ECU it's disabled. If not then I suppose we don't need to worry about it. I may be leaning toward not if it doesn't throw an error when you disconnect it.
 
I asked my dealer about disconnecting the cable from the valve and he told me if I do that, it will throw a check engine code?

Anyone seen this or is he full of it?
 
MacaveliMC said:
Are we missing something here?

On my Daytona it was the same thing, annoying flapper valve cut down sound and was an annoying maintenance issue, so a lot of people disconnected it - BUT! We were also fortunate to have the ability to use a $10 USB cable off of Ebay to connect to our diagnostic port and use freeware to connect to the ECU and disable anything we wanted including the flapper valve, so the ECU would KNOW it's disabled, and run accordingly. Otherwise it would throw a CEL.

What I'm getting at is, does the ECU calibrate how the engine runs based on the position of the flapper valve at all?? If it does then I wonder if a dealership can go in and tell the ECU it's disabled. If not then I suppose we don't need to worry about it. I may be leaning toward not if it doesn't throw an error when you disconnect it.
Click to expand...


No, from my experiences with Ducs the flapper valve is there only for noise purposes, the only way to disable the valve motor at this time is with the UP key.


thomaskenyon said:
I asked my dealer about disconnecting the cable from the valve and he told me if I do that, it will throw a check engine code?

Anyone seen this or is he full of it?
Click to expand...

Yes I did it on my Pany after the fist service, just disconnect the cable form the Flapper valve it self and leave the cable there, no codes with over 2K miles.
 
Been out for a short ride today and later had a look in on this thread. Anyway thought I would test if there was any noise differences I could detect at idle with a sound meter.

I tested the bike at idle and got about 101 decibels about 1 metre from the bike.

Then tried with the SPL meter sitting on the seat where I could also reach the throttle. Measured about 112 -115 decibels up to revs of 3000 to 4000 rpm.

then disconnected the flapper valve. First thing I looked for was a warning on the dash.

Nothing there.

then fired her up and got almost exactly the same readings for noise. maybe a touch louder in the 3000 to 4000 rpm range. Just a quick test.

Will go for a short ride tommorrow and see if I can notice any difference. Would be nice to get rid of that change in exhaust note between 3k and 4k or where ever it is that made me think I was losing one cylinder when I first got the bike.
 
bradp51 said:
Been out for a short ride today and later had a look in on this thread. Anyway thought I would test if there was any noise differences I could detect at idle with a sound meter.

I tested the bike at idle and got about 101 decibels about 1 metre from the bike.

Then tried with the SPL meter sitting on the seat where I could also reach the throttle. Measured about 112 -115 decibels up to revs of 3000 to 4000 rpm.

then disconnected the flapper valve. First thing I looked for was a warning on the dash.

Nothing there.

then fired her up and got almost exactly the same readings for noise. maybe a touch louder in the 3000 to 4000 rpm range. Just a quick test.

Will go for a short ride tommorrow and see if I can notice any difference. Would be nice to get rid of that change in exhaust note between 3k and 4k or where ever it is that made me think I was losing one cylinder when I first got the bike.
Click to expand...

I call it my stealth mode and you can make it happen any time you like around 53-58km/h:D
 
The valve is only for noise, it malfunctions, does nothing and does not cause a fault code if you remove the cable. Go for it.
 
No it will stay wide open once you simply remove that end of the cable from the valve. You can leave the cable in place just remove from valve.
 
I disconnected my cable this weekend with ill effects and no ECU problems. It is louder and seems to me to be slightly smoother in throttle response. Could be the same effect when you change the oil it seems to run better too but it's probably all in my head!
I just flipped the cable out and left everything installed. I rode about 100 miles and no issues.
 
DRAGAKNEE said:
I disconnected my cable this weekend with ill effects and no ECU problems. It is louder and seems to me to be slightly smoother in throttle response. Could be the same effect when you change the oil it seems to run better too but it's probably all in my head!
I just flipped the cable out and left everything installed. I rode about 100 miles and no issues.
Click to expand...


To clarify its only going to be louder in the range where the valve previously operated. Now thats it open all the time.

But it can't be any more open than it was before if you understand my meaning.

So you will not notice the quiet spot anymore. But for the rest of the time you will not see a difference.
 
joshinthecity said:
Me too.
Frickin thing is seriously in there with no obvious way to unhook it !
Click to expand...

Josh
You must be doing something wrong it takes about 30 secs to do it.

1 . Use a screwdriver or similar to turn the valve clockwise.

2. then just use some pliers and gently pull out the end of the cable

do it from the left side of the bike.

cheers
 
That's exactly the procedure I was expecting.
However.
Armed with a screwdriver, needle nose pliers and regular pliers… I was able to hold the valve back, and get a grip on the "head" of the cable, only to find that there wasn't a way to get the captive head of the cable out of it's carrier.
Either my bike is slightly different to most.. or I truly am ..........

either way.. I'm going to have to have another go at it, because it IS coming off my bike. One way or another.
 
joshinthecity said:
That's exactly the procedure I was expecting.
However.
Armed with a screwdriver, needle nose pliers and regular pliers"¦ I was able to hold the valve back, and get a grip on the "head" of the cable, only to find that there wasn't a way to get the captive head of the cable out of it's carrier.
Either my bike is slightly different to most.. or I truly am ..........

either way.. I'm going to have to have another go at it, because it IS coming off my bike. One way or another.
Click to expand...

josh yes you are .........:D

when you turn the valve clockwise use your pliers to rotate the nib by using the slack loop created in the cable, lift it so the cable comes out of the track and then pull the nib towards you

once you get it done you will see how easy it is

just like changing the brake cable on your old pushbike or trail bike from a few years ago before everything went high tech
 
bradp51 said:
josh yes you are .........:D

when you turn the valve clockwise use your pliers to rotate the nib by using the slack loop created in the cable, lift it so the cable comes out of the track and then pull the nib towards you

once you get it done you will see how easy it is

just like changing the brake cable on your old pushbike or trail bike from a few years ago before everything went high tech
Click to expand...

Frustratingly I'm in Canberra on business at the moment.
I won't be back with my bike till Friday.
The problem I had, from memory, is that the head of the cable was covered on all sides, (including the top) by the "carrier" it sits in. There was no way to just lift it out. Almost like a simple pin hinge.

I'll check it out again on the weekend and see if your diagnosis is in fact correct :)

j.
 
joshinthecity said:
Frustratingly I'm in Canberra on business at the moment.
I won't be back with my bike till Friday.
The problem I had, from memory, is that the head of the cable was covered on all sides, (including the top) by the "carrier" it sits in. There was no way to just lift it out. Almost like a simple pin hinge.

I'll check it out again on the weekend and see if your diagnosis is in fact correct :)

j.
Click to expand...

that the thing man :confused:. I am a little concerned if I try hard I might break the valve.
 
I have disconnected the cable ,no codes . It does however have a difficult time starting when hot .
 
bradp51 said:
To clarify its only going to be louder in the range where the valve previously operated. Now thats it open all the time.

But it can't be any more open than it was before if you understand my meaning.

So you will not notice the quiet spot anymore. But for the rest of the time you will not see a difference.
Click to expand...

BradP51, I understand, like I said it's probably all in my head.
For you guys having trouble getting the cable out, looking at the bike from the left, I just stuck my fingers in there and held the valve open. The cable will have enough slack to come out. I didn't use pliers or anything just a scribe. If you don't know what that is it's a long straight metal pick with sharp points on both ends with a hook or a 90 degree bend at the end. I hooked the cable and pulled it out. That simple. Keep at it you guys will get it out.
 
joshinthecity said:
Frustratingly I'm in Canberra on business at the moment.
I won't be back with my bike till Friday.
The problem I had, from memory, is that the head of the cable was covered on all sides, (including the top) by the "carrier" it sits in. There was no way to just lift it out. Almost like a simple pin hinge.

I'll check it out again on the weekend and see if your diagnosis is in fact correct :)

j.
Click to expand...

Josh if you mean by diagnosis - is that how you remove it then I am correct unless you and I have Panigale's from different factories.

There is nothing covering the cable.

I am sure you will work it out at next look.
 

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