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@rikkie07 the line showing on the shock below the lock ring is fine just don't go too much past that. As @Steven31371 stated the shock will have a number on it. DU468X should have a 0-9 revision number after it in the "X" position. Ohlins will not likely give you the spec card but I can get it. Lmk. The NIX30 is an improvement but only if installed by a qualified professional and then setup by the same.

What tracks do you ride?
 
Don't mean to hijack the posts above, I redid SAG as everyone suggested and funnily enough I had cocked it right up. I had no free SAG. SAG is now 40 front & 35 rear. Fork zip tie is 20mm from bottom out.
I completed my 2nd track day and would appreciate some feedback. I'm still getting over turning left after a previous crash at Phillip Island, hence no track days for a few years, so don't hassle the chicken strip :(.
Tyre pressure was F32 hot and R29 hot. I used the settings below from a Dave Moss (DM) video, similar sized rider.
I'm using out is from hard and in is from soft.
I think the right side has cleaned up ok, just wondering if there is a rebound issue with the rear, left side, or is it from coasting as DM mentions in his videos?
Forks
Preload - 6 out
Compression - 4 1/2 out
Tension - 3 1/2 out
Shock
Preload - 8 threads
Compression - 1 1/4 out
Rebound - 5 out
 

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@rikkie07 the line showing on the shock below the lock ring is fine just don't go too much past that. As @Steven31371 stated the shock will have a number on it. DU468X should have a 0-9 revision number after it in the "X" position. Ohlins will not likely give you the spec card but I can get it. Lmk. The NIX30 is an improvement but only if installed by a qualified professional and then setup by the same.

What tracks do you ride?
I understand that there are constant updates from Ohlins. But mostly on internal components i think, I find it strange that a basic adjustment like shock lenght for the same bike has different specs.
Due to COVID the last 2 years less abroad (more local tracks like Zolder and Spa).
But normally every year I'll visit Catalunya (March) and in the summer Brno. I like those tracks. Other tracks depents on workload and budget like Mugello, LeMans, Assen.
The original springs is 10.0Nm, is that correct? Do you advice that also for the NIX 30?
 
@Knackers your tires look fine. Shock preload is not measured by threads on shock body showing. Your rear bike sag it too much. Does the bike fight on entry or run wide on exit?
 
@Knackers your tires look fine. Shock preload is not measured by threads on shock body showing. Your rear bike sag it too much. Does the bike fight on entry or run wide on exit?
Thanks, and Yeah both especially exits probably why I feel "off". Drop the rear by 10 mm?
 
@Knackers I have no idea what you mean by "Drop the rear by 10 mm". Your rear sag is too much which effectively means the rear of the bike is sitting too low in the stroke. Try adding (clockwise) one complete turn of preload to the shock and re-measure bike and rider sag please. You should be 12-15 mm bike and 30 mm rider. Make sure you measure wearing your riding gear.
 
@Knackers I have no idea what you mean by "Drop the rear by 10 mm". Your rear sag is too much which effectively means the rear of the bike is sitting too low in the stroke. Try adding (clockwise) one complete turn of preload to the shock and re-measure bike and rider sag please. You should be 12-15 mm bike and 30 mm rider. Make sure you measure wearing your riding gear.
I meant reduce the SAG by 10mm. 12-15 is free sag? I had readjusted it prior to your post using the ractech website equation- Sag = the original measurement minus the average of L2 and L3
L1 Bike 625mm Free
L2 Rider 595mm
L3 Free SAG 5mm
37.5mm
I'll redo it this week, I have my speed triple fork oil and tyres to do. Thanks again
 
Hello everybody. I just read the whole theme. I am about to start setting my bike for the summer but before I start, I want to do service on my suspension. My question is should I go to ohlins dealer and do it there or my local mechanic can do it? I prefer the local guy cuz its my friend and it does every job on my bike like its his own but I dont know if there is something specific on the DES. Thank you.

P.S. We can order oil and everything from ohlins dealer.
 
It is stamped or laser-etched onto the back side of the upper shock body.
The only number I found stamped on the upper shock body is a 6-digitnr.: 159199.
Is that helpful? Otherwise I'll have to take the shock out.
The 2020 version had shorter (5mm) linkrods that also raised the rear, so I wouldn't need to change the shocklenght that much to get the same rideheight, is that also a possibility? What do you think about that idea?
 
@roadracerx

A quick question about setup. I just purchased a set of Ducati/Rizoma rearsets for a very good price. Of course, they didn't come with instructions. Outside of just going for comfort, is there a desirable or a best practice for how high or low to initially set the shift and brake lever? Is there a foot angle to shoot for? I'm not dragging elbows or anything crazy, just looking for a baseline.

I searched in the manual but didn't find anything useful, but its possible I missed it.
 
Its entirely personal, but I set mine so that my toe sliders have minimal road contact and I can hook my boot under easily for the downshift. Im pretty loose so I can have mine as high and rearward as the settings allow but I would get dressed up, get on the bike with a mate holding it (not on a stand that lifts the rear) and play with the ergos. Where your bars are set also makes a difference and how you ride; sit up and beg, semi or full tuck.
 
Hello everybody. I just read the whole theme. I am about to start setting my bike for the summer but before I start, I want to do service on my suspension. My question is should I go to ohlins dealer and do it there or my local mechanic can do it? I prefer the local guy cuz its my friend and it does every job on my bike like its his own but I dont know if there is something specific on the DES. Thank you.

P.S. We can order oil and everything from ohlins dealer.

I would go to the Ohlins shop but if your local guy has the proper tools and knows how to do the job and stands by his work that shouldn't be a problem. Is this a complete service, which includes disassembly of the fork internals and shock internals....
 
The only number I found stamped on the upper shock body is a 6-digitnr.: 159199.
Is that helpful? Otherwise I'll have to take the shock out.
The 2020 version had shorter (5mm) linkrods that also raised the rear, so I wouldn't need to change the shocklenght that much to get the same rideheight, is that also a possibility? What do you think about that idea?

Like I said before, I really need the shock number. Don't want to speculate.
 
@roadracerx

A quick question about setup. I just purchased a set of Ducati/Rizoma rearsets for a very good price. Of course, they didn't come with instructions. Outside of just going for comfort, is there a desirable or a best practice for how high or low to initially set the shift and brake lever? Is there a foot angle to shoot for? I'm not dragging elbows or anything crazy, just looking for a baseline.

I searched in the manual but didn't find anything useful, but its possible I missed it.

The V4 Rizoma rearsets? If so I can provide some info for you. Lmk.
 
@roadracerx Yes, the V4 Rizoma rearsets.

I got my right fork disassembled and all in all I drained 350cc of fluid from it. Is it best practice just to put this amount back in or use the oil height tool? If using the oil height tool, are all of the parts in the fork except for the top cap?
 
@bp_SFV4 you should measure with an oil height tool to measure the air gap --> fork collapsed without spring or spacer, obviously no top cap.
 

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