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@KarlKani Is it possible that whoever serviced your forks put one 10.0 and one 10.5 N/m spring in the forks to get a combined rate of 10.25 N/m? The spec cards just tell me what you have. It looks like the oil level was set higher than spec, which is fine. Have you set bike and rider sag? Are you using a 180/60 rear?

Btw, spec cards are from Ohlins for how the shock is sent from Ohlins, not necessarily what you get from a re-seller because based on the weight of the person ordering the re-seller may swap springs. These spec cards are not really for the general public.

What I need to know is what number is written on the spring and also need you to measure the length of the spring that way it is installed on the shock and the length of that shock. Remove the shock from the bike and be precise please.
 
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@Paul G you are kinda all over the place. Now you have changed gearing and chain length without first getting the bike properly setup for the tires you want to use. Let's make a CLEAR plan.

Depending on gearing there are different PREFERRED lengths for the swingarm which is measured from the center swingarm pivot to the center of the axle.

15/39 should be 104 chain links @ 536 mm
15/41 should be 106 chain links @ 545 mm

Copy,

I changed the gearing 6 months ago but only thought now to mention it. Yes the chain was 106 links, can confirm centre of pivot to centre of axle is exactly 545. I also reset the fork height back to standard today before proceeding any further.
 
@KarlKani Is it possible that whoever serviced your forks put one 10.0 and one 10.5 N/m spring in the forks to get a combined rate of 10.25 N/m? The spec cards just tell me what you have. It looks like the oil level was set higher than spec, which is fine. Have you set bike and rider sag? Are you using a 180/60 rear?

Btw, spec cards are from Ohlins for how the shock is sent from Ohlins, not necessarily what you get from a re-seller because based on the weight of the person ordering the re-seller may swap springs. These spec cards are not really for the general public.

What I need to know is what number is written on the spring and also need you to measure the length of the spring that way it is installed on the shock and the length of that shock. Remove the shock from the bike and be precise please.

+That is what I wanted 10.0 + 10.5 I was just acknowledging that the invoice only showed 10.5 springs ordered I will clarify with the shop.
+Sag hasn't been set, I just picked it up and dropped it off fat my storage
+I will get you the info next weekend when I am with the bike again

thanks
 
I finally got around to taking note of the setup I have on both my Panigale R (2016) and 1299 Superleggera. As a baseline on 200/55 Diablo Supercorsa SP V2 or TD you can see the fork is 4 mm above the top clamp and the shock has 8 threads showing; the length of the shock is adjusted by loosening the 24 mm nut on the left side of the image below. *** In my experience it is very easy to adjust preload by accident unless you loosen the lock nut first and then remove the bottom shock mount bolt. You will need support the bike by the foot pegs to do this properly. ***

I typically set swingarm angle with the Ducati Corse tool, however, that is not possible for many reading this who don't have that tool so this info is for you.

This baseline setup assumes bike and rider sag are set per the recommendations I have given above, the chain tension is correct and the gearing is (15/41), 106 chain links, 545 mm swingarm length. If you deviate from these assumptions then other things need to change.

This will help many, ask questions if needed.
 

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Thanks great input, have ordered a new TTX 466 due in a week or so will update after that and after our lockdown.
 
Edit to my last post. Gearing should be 15/39 with swingarm length of 551 mm with 106 links. 15/41 also works at 545 mm with 106 links BUT the shock length will be different. The pictures above are with 15/39 gearing, NOT 15/41.

I have 15/41 gearing on my other Panigale R which does not use a standard rear shock. I will try to measure that later.
 
Edit to my last post. Gearing should be 15/39 with swingarm length of 551 mm with 106 links. 15/41 also works at 545 mm with 106 links BUT the shock length will be different. The pictures above are with 15/39 gearing, NOT 15/41.

I have 15/41 gearing on my other Panigale R which does not use a standard rear shock. I will try to measure that later.

From what to what I’d supposed to be 551?
 
@AmpForE 551 mm is the swingarm length for 15/39 gearing with 106 chain links. Swingarm length is measured from the center of the rear axle to the center of the swingarm pivot NOT the front sprocket.
 
@AmpForE 551 mm is the swingarm length for 15/39 gearing with 106 chain links. Swingarm length is measured from the center of the rear axle to the center of the swingarm pivot NOT the front sprocket.

I’d like to get into setting the swing arm angle. But I’m 2 mods from stock. One I can reset back to stock but I’m. Or changing tires unless I score a set of rims cheap.

From what I have read above I guess I need to raise the ride height by at least 3mm.
 
Mr X you referenced the 4mm height above the clamp. Im assuming that will have to have a compensatory calculation for aftermarket clamps that sit higher or lower on the top cap. 4mm on you SL gave you a measured rake angle. Throw say on a flat IMA or Attack clamp on your SL without changing anything else and you’re going to show more than 4mm. What was the parameter that was the decision for the 4mm and is there another more static universally fixed point (somewhere on the frame which is universal to everyone) to use as a reference? Is there an optimal head angle and swing arm angle that should be in parallel? I concede to being dumb as dirt in this department. Apologies in advance.
 
@endodoc, as a general rule 100 mm of trail works pretty well for a track bike. Ducati moved from a 36 mm offset to 30 mm on the 1199 and has not changed that since to get to 100 mm trail stock.

Trail is a combination of rake angle, clamp offset, tire diameter, sag, preload and rear ride height; one can achieve that ideal trail number different ways while giving the rider a different experience.

When I change clamps I generally measure the fork position from the center of the front axle to the bottom of the stock lower clamp while the bike is on a stand and duplicate that ride height with the next clamp. That being said, everything I do is with math so there is no guess work. Providing suggestions with stock parts is easiest as most people have stock parts.

When we have a good baseline working from stock then we adjust from there usually one thing at a time. Math helps me be precise when, for example, rake angle, offset, tires, spring rates and gearing are all changed at the same time - it is easy to get lost without it - math helps me get from the good base line to how these changes affect the bike.

Some top clamps are raised or lowered as you mentioned, that is generally because superbike forks are longer at 770 mm vs 740 mm for the forks that come on an S model.
 
Thanks for the details. Very helpful. Looking forward to getting things set up correctly. I never really had any “stock” reference point to go off of so even with the fancy tools at my limited experience level with respect to setup, it’s a guess at best.
 
So I found this, and it was on sale, so I bought it. I bought a spanner since I was in a buying mood.

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@AmpForE I have one of those as well, but there is a lot of play so it is hard to compare. If you don't put pressure in the right place you will get different measurements...that's why it is not very expensive but it is better than nothing...
 
@AmpForE I have one of those as well, but there is a lot of play so it is hard to compare. If you don't put pressure in the right place you will get different measurements...that's why it is not very expensive but it is better than nothing...

I can try this, but the one for $350 is a non starter. Based on your description it may need to be modded slightly to be able to deliver consistent results. Which is okay for now.

Can’t wait for it all to arrive. I’ll likely move my suspension back to flat now that I’ve got something to work with and adjust.

I really do like delving into the setup. Years of riding cycles with showroom settings is absolutely crazy.
 
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@AmpForE, showroom isn't so bad actually if you are within the weight range of the anticipated rider....what happens is people start changing things without accounting for those changes. Most common are different sized tires, 1 down front and 1 up rear sprocket combos and shorty levers...
 
@AmpForE, showroom isn't so bad actually if you are within the weight range of the anticipated rider....what happens is people start changing things without accounting for those changes. Most common are different sized tires, 1 down front and 1 up rear sprocket combos and shorty levers...

Yes,

I’ve already changed the tires, and when these are beat I may go to the Rosso Corsa II with a 200 60.
 
@Paul G I am not sure I understand the question but the single-sided swingarm on the 1199/1299 is really limited to about 20 mm of wheelbase adjustment, from 534-554 mm.

Shock length is really for swingarm angle adjustment so ride height is a by-product of that swingarm angle adjustment and YES there is an ideal number but that number if useless if you don't have the Corse ride height tool.

Getting the gearing right first is most important.

Shorter tracks: 15/42, 106 links, 543 mm swingarm length, 186 mph @ 11,500 rpm (theoretical)
Medium length tracks: 15/41, 106 links, 545 mm swingarm length, 191 mph @ 11,500 rpm (theoretical)
Longer tracks: 16/42, 106 links, 539 mm swingarm length, 199 mph @ 11,500 rpm (theoretical)
 

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