Front brake issue

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JDD2254

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Sep 27, 2021
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Location
California
Thanks upfront for reading and input.. I'll attempt to be brief
I'm ride my V2 on track often and I am now obsessed with fixing front brake issue..
Basically it fits "brake fade" description so I have went with braketech iron discs, organic ferodo pads, brembo rc19 master and motul fluid but it still at times will only slow the bike down.
It's intermittent and usually later in day and later in track session.. I have grabbed lever with 4 fingers gave it everything I got and thank God it will slow me down enough to make corner but holding the brake through corner (trailing without the release/increased lean angle thing).
Most time braking is very good but on average occurs 2 sessions out of 7 and mostly on back portion of track at end of straight after braking through first 10 turns?
Any advice is much much appreciated
 
what are the temps when this is happening?
I know nothing about brake tech iron rotors, I only use brembo, organic brake pads sounds like a terrible idea, + rc masters are no better then oem
Which motul fluid are you using?

What is the feel of the bike lever when not riding, does it pull back far to bar? is it spongy ?
 
Thanks for reply bro
Temps are very high....spongy for sure like very spongy...when I called braketech the technician and my Ducati service advisor recommended the organic to avoid brake fade...motul 660 fluid..
Thanks again for help
 
very high temps are going to cause brake fade, 100%
660 is as good as it gets, sounds like it needs to be bleed to were it is firm
brake pads depend on the person I only use Brembo Z04
perhaps consider the brake tech pistons

Caliper Racing Pistons | Braketech

braketech.com braketech.com
the billet brembo master is far superior to RC, more expensive but much better
www.superbikeunlimited.com

Brembo Billet Radial Master Cylinder with Folding Lever - 19x16 19x18 19x20 - XR0.11.72 (19x20) | XR0.11.71 (19x18) | XR0.11.70 (19x16)

Brembo Billet Radial Master Cylinder with Folding Lever - 19x16 19x18 19x20
www.superbikeunlimited.com www.superbikeunlimited.com
 
FLUID DRY WET

Castrol SRF 590°F 518°F

Motul RBF 660 617°F 399°F

Try Castrol SRF — it’s used by virtually every Formula 1 team.

Motul RBF 660, is very quick to absorb water from the air. Wet boiling point is lower than SRF fluid.

(Also for future reference, the 17RCS will give better lever modulation characteristics than the 19RCS when used with Panagale calipers.)
 
Last edited:
I have been running the BT irons for years with Ferodo X rac pads, RCS19. Currently Z04 pads and XRO billet master 19x18 and not much performance difference so I am highly guessing your running the stock brake line setup with or without ABS? If so the additional lines and length is your issue. Remove all that stuff go with a direct T line from calipers to master all your issues will go away.


JDD2254 said:
Thanks upfront for reading and input.. I'll attempt to be brief
I'm ride my V2 on track often and I am now obsessed with fixing front brake issue..
Basically it fits "brake fade" description so I have went with braketech iron discs, organic ferodo pads, brembo rc19 master and motul fluid but it still at times will only slow the bike down.
It's intermittent and usually later in day and later in track session.. I have grabbed lever with 4 fingers gave it everything I got and thank God it will slow me down enough to make corner but holding the brake through corner (trailing without the release/increased lean angle thing).
Most time braking is very good but on average occurs 2 sessions out of 7 and mostly on back portion of track at end of straight after braking through first 10 turns?
Any advice is much much appreciated
Click to expand...
 
WOW
You guys are awesome!! I really appreciate your help...looking into all right away!
 
I second Karl's post, the billet MC's are preferable over the forged RCS. RCS upgrade really only helps with lever adjustments.

Bypassing the ABS should also help with removing some sponginess.

I don't agree with the 17RCS vs. 19RCS comment. 17RCS should only be used with 30mm piston calipers. Stock calipers on the V2 are the same as the 959/899 platform (32mm pistons *I believe*) & need the larger 19RCS MC.
 
Ti or stainless pistons are key to keeping heat from the brake fluid and those aluminum pistons are good at conducting that heat. I've tried most high performance brake fluids and the best feel I got was with endless bf.
 
Have to ask but how fast are you on the track? Assuming you have good fresh fluid and decent pads you should not get all that much fade unless you are riding at a really good pace and coming in deep corner on the brakes.

Not too sure on the pad choice. My preference is Vesrah and I get my brakes cooking and they don’t fade. I’m on stock braking system with ABS in play on my V4.
 
I go into a little detail in my blog about the brakes. TL;DR - you've made a lot of changes. Id suggest adding a bleeder to the ABS pump or doing an ABS delete and rebuilding the calipers with Ti pistons

Private Site

jimsoiland.wordpress.com
 
I can't begin to thank everybody enough for your advice please keep them coming as I really appreciate it!

To answer Brad question, I'm never fast enough but am top of b+ and ready to enter A group...I'm a very deep in the corner brake guy for sure and am at my best outbraking someone going into corner... Lots of liter bikes out there so I brake later and deeper to pass... Why I've been concerned and then obsessed with correcting this issue.. I'm going in pretty dang deep and when it's happened it's a little hairy feeling for sure...

THANKS AGAIN EVERYONE!!
 
So just take any one of the lines coming from the ABS box and throw in a beelder banjo?

That seems much more simple that I thought it was going to be. Granted, you'd have to work out thread size and depth, but not hard at all.

Among the track superstars, the ABS that much of a hinderance?
 
My abs doesn’t noticeably interfere ever. I’m not a superstar, I can run a decent pace and I’m good on my brakes.
 
Yeah pick any port you want the banjo's are 10mm x 1.0. There are so many extra long lines within the ABS plumbing getting the air out is tough. Removing it all and by passing the pump going direct with a T line from calipers to master is the only fix.


bp_SFV4 said:
So just take any one of the lines coming from the ABS box and throw in a beelder banjo?

That seems much more simple that I thought it was going to be. Granted, you'd have to work out thread size and depth, but not hard at all.

Among the track superstars, the ABS that much of a hinderance?
Click to expand...
 
Next time at the track, find another V2/V4 that has bypassed the abs and squeeze the lever, you'll know why its done. After going down the road of brake fluid and pads, I finally found the fix on my 1199 by bypassing the abs. With my V4, I went with a billet MC and calipers along with iron rotors which is nice but the single biggest improvement in feel comes from bypassing the abs.
 

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