Fuel system

Made sure it clicked together?


It does take awhile to prime the system

linesurf said:

HELP!!!
I replaced my 1299 air filter.. in order to do so i had to disconnect the fuel lines. once i was finished and re-connected everything, my bike won't start anymore??? any one have any suggestions?

Thanks -SA

Click to expand...

Make sure that all four pins on the fuel pump connector are straight. They have a tendency to bend over. That's the male end on the tank not the female plug.

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linesurf said:

HELP!!!
I replaced my 1299 air filter.. in order to do so i had to disconnect the fuel lines. once i was finished and re-connected everything, my bike won't start anymore??? any one have any suggestions?

Thanks -SA

Click to expand...

If you dont hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key then that's probably your problem. It should sounds like a winding servo for about 3 seconds. Use a flash light to look into the male and make absolutely sure that all four pins are straight and in line. Could be also that one pin broke off inside the female end cable.

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Good point mine was bent, not sure how it happened

I wanted to let everyone know of a great resource for Fuel Pump replacements if you don't already. https://www.highflowfuel.com/ Super affordable, relatively easy plug and play, and excellent customer service. A replacement pump for my 1299 was only $70.

Fuel Pump and Flange Body Replacement Pics

So I did not see this researching the Threads, maybe someone can help me and put this in the right place. I learned how to separate the Fuel Pump Flange today to replace the fuel pump. Again, if this is repeat info I apologize and will delete if necessary. Removal of the Flange itself is covered in the repair manual. I heard the plastic of the flange body is brittle overtime sitting in fuel.

This is not a how to guide, directions, or instructions. Just sharing a few things of note that might be informative. After draining all of the fuel from the pump the flange body and pump were warmed up to help the plastic flex a little without breaking. It should go without saying, this is a component that has been soaking in highly combustible and potentially dangerous fuel.

Secondarily, small and inexpensive Harbor Freight style picks were used to gently gain access underneath the locking clips. Just enough force was used to insert the Phone Repair plastic pics commonly found online. The picks and prys were left in place to prevent the clips from re-locking. Once all the of the clips were shored open, a screwdriver was slipped into the two halves of the Flange body and nudged apart. A little squirt of a plastic safe lubricant around the clips might also help them slip open.

I have little experience with Photobucket and I am attempting to give everyone access to view the pictures in the link below.

http://s58.photobucket.com/user/bmikesaylor/library/

So I wanted to update everyone on a persistent no start problem I have been having with my 1299. As originally stated in this thread, I replaced my OEM fuel pump with a rebuilt one as stated above. Unfortunately, I still experienced intermittent no start, shut off problems. Took the bike to a local repair shop and they surmised that the fuel pump repair I did was defective because it was not holding sufficient pressure. To test the theory, instead of purchasing a brand new pump ($1200 ish), I instead purchased a used pump pulled out of a salvaged Panigale on Ebay for $100 (ish). Low and behold the bike did start upon installation of the used pump/flange... however the bike shut off and stopped working after 15 minutes of idling. I could not get the bike to start again. It would turn over, but not fire up. Continuing on with the fuel pump/flange theory, I ordered a replacement seal kit for the pump suspecting they were dried out and or worn out for about $50. I was later informed from the shop that typically when those seals fail it would manifest themselves in a slow leak, not a complete loss of pressure. Nonetheless, seals replaced. Again, no starty.... They Multimetere tests kept showing proper readings to the 4 Pin electrical connection that connects the loom to the fuel pump/flange. However, out of morbid curiosity and a whim quite frankly, I pulled back the rubber boot on the 4 Pin connector to reveal - two of the four pins had intact become slightly dislodged from the back of the connector. A problem I have had before with other Ducati multipin connectors. More than likely from pulling up too aggressively on the rear of the tank when disconnecting the fuel pump. Once the pins were reset, problem completely and consistently resolved. Things I learned about that connector in particular - be extremely careful pulling up on the fuel tank to disconnect it because it is relatively easy to do. Its also relatively east to pinch the wires between the tank and the frame when refitting the tank. Physically inspecting the back wires and pins needs to be done for fuel pump issues because a multimeter probe is long enough to reach the pins even when they are dislodged creating a false reading so to speak. Anyhow, thought I would share so others can avoid the heartache and headaches this caused me.