Fuel Tank Removal

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spooky said:
Wouldn’t that make the bike heavier?
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Now spooky is perseverating on the various types of lead to add to his bike. Should he go with pure lead, antimonial lead, Babbitt

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spooky said:
Those sounds like a good idea, but I’m not sure how often I would actually need to remove the tank. I’m only doing this to replace the rear subframe.
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If you're building a proper track bike, build a proper track bike. Agree with the dry break connectors. Looks like you could use a Staubli QR for fuel lines. Just cut the hose where it's most accessible and add it inline.
 
spooky said:
Those sounds like a good idea, but I’m not sure how often I would actually need to remove the tank. I’m only doing this to replace the rear subframe.
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If I were in there I'd pull the rear valve cover and check the valve clearances. I had to release one of the hoses on the back of the airbox to sneak the rear cover off. Ducati only glues the gasket to the valve cover so comes off readily. Spread a thin layer of grease on the gasket face when you put it back on. I have Oetiker stuff but I find I only use them on the internal fuel pump hoses. BTW you might want to add the heat shielding around the fuel pump if it's not there.
 
baggerman said:
If I were in there I'd pull the rear valve cover and check the valve clearances. I had to release one of the hoses on the back of the airbox to sneak the rear cover off. Ducati only glues the gasket to the valve cover so comes off readily. Spread a thin layer of grease on the gasket face when you put it back on. I have Oetiker stuff but I find I only use them on the internal fuel pump hoses. BTW you might want to add the heat shielding around the fuel pump if it's not there.
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I’ll have a look at the heat shield bit you mentioned as that sounds like it could be worthwhile.

I’m out on track again late next week so I’m not sure I want to get into checking valve clearances for the first time. Would opening that up myself potentially affect warranty?
 
baggerman said:
If I were in there I'd pull the rear valve cover and check the valve clearances. I had to release one of the hoses on the back of the airbox to sneak the rear cover off. Ducati only glues the gasket to the valve cover so comes off readily. Spread a thin layer of grease on the gasket face when you put it back on. I have Oetiker stuff but I find I only use them on the internal fuel pump hoses. BTW you might want to add the heat shielding around the fuel pump if it's not there.
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He has a new V4R with probably only a few hundred km’s on it. No need to get into the top end so early unless planning on doing some head work (port optimization or race cams if that’s even a thing).

Also this is spooky. He can barely decide on a MC. Could you imagine him trying to work out valve shim thickness?
 
spooky said:
I’ll have a look at the heat shield bit you mentioned as that sounds like it could be worthwhile.

I’m out on track again late next week so I’m not sure I want to get into checking valve clearances for the first time. Would opening that up myself potentially affect warranty?
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You don't need to tell them. It's a good practice to measure the valvetrains when the motors fresh so you have a reference next time you check. Check them write them down. Then you can readily detect a problem if somethings checking out. The manual calls for the R closers to be set at 0.0015 inch. I'll bet there ain't a single one that tight. One of the german guys posted he shattered a bunch of closer collets on an R (they're titanium). This happens due to loose clearances. Doesn't hurt to check. I like to fix stuff before it breaks. Takes about an hour. Front head well that's a different deal. Pull the wheel, drop the radiators.
 
baggerman said:
You don't need to tell them. It's a good practice to measure the valvetrains when the motors fresh so you have a reference next time you check. Check them write them down. Then you can readily detect a problem if somethings checking out. The manual calls for the R closers to be set at 0.0015 inch. I'll bet there ain't a single one that tight. One of the german guys posted he shattered a bunch of closer collets on an R (they're titanium). This happens due to loose clearances. Doesn't hurt to check. I like to fix stuff before it breaks. Takes about an hour. Front head well that's a different deal. Pull the wheel, drop the radiators.
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With respect he is battling to get the tank off…first!
 
andyb said:
With respect he is battling to get the tank off…first!
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I’m not battling to do it – I wanted to ask before doing it so I don’t have to battle… I’ve learned some stuff, have the right tool on the way and I think it will be simple thanks to the advice I have received in this thread. I think it’s better to learn from other people’s experience and there’s nothing wrong with seeking the benefit of other people’s experience before attempting something you haven’t done before.

On the other hand, valve clearance isn’t something I want to be doing just yet, even if it might be a good idea. I am also concerned about opening things up on the engine and the potential for warranty issues on the engine as a consequence.
 
andyb said:
Which straight bit of pipe are you going to fit around 100 mm of straight connector napoleon?
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I’ll give you 100 mm of straight connector 😜

Factory team seems to be able to sort it out with what looks like a Staubli type elbow connector. And yes I realize this is their warm up fuel tank setup.

Love you boo
 

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SuperDomestique said:
I’ll give you 100 mm of straight connector 😜

Factory team seems to be able to sort it out with what looks like a Staubli type elbow connector. And yes I realize this is their warm up fuel tank setup.

Love you boo
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Another internet picture .. well done

Wanna see how hard it is and lack of space look at superbike unlimited attempt on their video…
 

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