Fuel Tank Removal

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I’ll give you 100 mm of straight connector 😜

Factory team seems to be able to sort it out with what looks like a Staubli type elbow connector. And yes I realize this is their warm up fuel tank setup.

Love you boo

They should weld the appropriate nipple on the tank and use the Ford style disconnects (simply the best). Cost them an extra 10 cents a unit.
 
I contacted race seats regarding 22 they came back within minutes … ask them! Besides I think it’ll fit anyway
I sent an email just after I saw your post to [email protected] but haven’t received a reply yet. Probably just a time zone thing. When I go to their website it looks different than it did the last time I saw it and the products aren’t listed in the old way with the p/n next to a description.
 
I don't know if anyone has mentioned this, after you cut the clamp off, lift the edge of the hose a little bit with a flat tip (I have a small screwdriver with the edges ground rounded for this kind of stuff) and squirt some penetrant into the gap. That hose can be pretty stuck on there.
 
Interesting idea.

All of the rubber hoses have a habit of getting stuck. I think the dealer memo came out of a practice of twisting and forcing the hose off of the T barb fitting with pliers. When I re-install the fuel hose I grease the barb and haven't had an issue.
 
Fuel tanks off. The fuel line is a bit of a pain in the arse. It also seems to be covered with some sort of tape that the replacement doesn’t have. Any idea what that is?

Apart from teasing the fuel line out in an effort not to damage it, I thought it was very straightforward and easy.

I think I need to take the four screws out from underneath the exhaust heat shield holder and obviously the screws holding the exhaust to the rear subframe and then I should be able to remove it.

I’ll have a better look later, but I don’t think I noticed any heat shielding on the fuel pump.
 
I think the shielding kit (it's just that self adhesive aluminum reflective stuff) came with the akro exhaust stuff. SD would know. You can just buy a sheet of the stuff cheap. I leave the right plastic head shield off because it traps heat around the pump.
 
Fuel tanks off. The fuel line is a bit of a pain in the arse. It also seems to be covered with some sort of tape that the replacement doesn’t have. Any idea what that is?

I’ll have a better look later, but I don’t think I noticed any heat shielding on the fuel pump.
The fuel line has kind of a net like material which is meant to protect it from abrasion. It’s taped on both ends with the type of cloth tape they use for wire harnesses. I bought a roll of it off Amazon and re-do it when I take the tank off.

There is no shielding on the pump, but there is stick on heat shielding on the bottom and sides of the tank which are covered by the subframe on the newer bikes.
 
I think the shielding kit (it's just that self adhesive aluminum reflective stuff) came with the akro exhaust stuff. SD would know. You can just buy a sheet of the stuff cheap. I leave the right plastic head shield off because it traps heat around the pump.
Zircoflex seems to be the jam. Have a few different options to suit your application
 
I think the shielding kit (it's just that self adhesive aluminum reflective stuff) came with the akro exhaust stuff. SD would know. You can just buy a sheet of the stuff cheap. I leave the right plastic head shield off because it traps heat around the pump.

Not sure how he would know (other than from the internet) as he has the OEM exhaust on his bike.
 
The Akrapovic has a plastic bit that is connected to the rear subframe by four bolts from underneath but one is not accessible. It looks like I would need to remove three bolts from above but they look like the type that love to strip and the front one is really tricky to access. The alternative might be to remove the right rearset, then the carbon cover, to potentially give access to the problem bolt underneath…

Am I missing something or is it typically awkward?
 
Post a picture of what you’re looking at. I’m having a hard time picturing it.

IMG_0409.jpeg


Below the fuel pump connector is a plastic bit. There are three bolts around the connector - two in front and one behind - that look like they are probably made of finest Italian cheese. That black plastic piece is attached to the subframe by two bolts from underneath on each side, but the front one on the right is too close to the carbon exhaust cover to be able to access without removing the carbon exhaust cover, which would require removal of the right rearset.

So that black plastic part below the fuel pump connector is attached to the subframe but, via those three bolts, attached to the heat guard below it.

Hopefully that makes sense.
 
take off the tail section of the exhaust if your are changing subframes, heat shield stays with it

Sorry, but could you clarify exactly which part you mean?

It looks to me like the part below the pump connector in my picture is attached to the subframe and to the heat shield beneath it.
 
When you go to tighten the subframe bolts, the service manual says the replace the bolts and tighten them 35 Nm on the lower and 33 Nm on the upper or vice versa. The Akra manual does not say to replace them and torque them to 25 Nm. I suggest the Akra way.
 
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When you go to tighten the subframe bolts, the service manual says the replace the bolts and tighten them 35 Nm on the lower and 33 Nm on the upper. The Akra manual does not say to replace them and torque them to 25 Nm. I suggest the Akra way.

I have actually bought new bolts based on the workshop manual comment that you mentioned.

If you were putting new bolts in would you go Ducati or Akra torque spec? I’m guessing Akra’s lower torque is based on using the original bolts.

The workshop manual for the V4R seems to say 31nm for all four and greased first, unless I’m reading it wrong… I thought it recommended the torque values you mentioned from memory.

IMG_0267.png
 
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