Fuel Tank Removal

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The Akrapovic has a plastic bit that is connected to the rear subframe by four bolts from underneath but one is not accessible. It looks like I would need to remove three bolts from above but they look like the type that love to strip and the front one is really tricky to access. The alternative might be to remove the right rearset, then the carbon cover, to potentially give access to the problem bolt underneath…

Am I missing something or is it typically awkward?
 
Post a picture of what you’re looking at. I’m having a hard time picturing it.

IMG_0409.jpeg


Below the fuel pump connector is a plastic bit. There are three bolts around the connector - two in front and one behind - that look like they are probably made of finest Italian cheese. That black plastic piece is attached to the subframe by two bolts from underneath on each side, but the front one on the right is too close to the carbon exhaust cover to be able to access without removing the carbon exhaust cover, which would require removal of the right rearset.

So that black plastic part below the fuel pump connector is attached to the subframe but, via those three bolts, attached to the heat guard below it.

Hopefully that makes sense.
 
take off the tail section of the exhaust if your are changing subframes, heat shield stays with it

Sorry, but could you clarify exactly which part you mean?

It looks to me like the part below the pump connector in my picture is attached to the subframe and to the heat shield beneath it.
 
You only need to remove the 4 torx headed bolts that hold the subframe to the bike. The entire subframe and heat shield will come off as an assembly.
 
When you go to tighten the subframe bolts, the service manual says the replace the bolts and tighten them 35 Nm on the lower and 33 Nm on the upper or vice versa. The Akra manual does not say to replace them and torque them to 25 Nm. I suggest the Akra way.
 
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When you go to tighten the subframe bolts, the service manual says the replace the bolts and tighten them 35 Nm on the lower and 33 Nm on the upper. The Akra manual does not say to replace them and torque them to 25 Nm. I suggest the Akra way.

I have actually bought new bolts based on the workshop manual comment that you mentioned.

If you were putting new bolts in would you go Ducati or Akra torque spec? I’m guessing Akra’s lower torque is based on using the original bolts.

The workshop manual for the V4R seems to say 31nm for all four and greased first, unless I’m reading it wrong… I thought it recommended the torque values you mentioned from memory.

IMG_0267.png
 
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You only need to remove the 4 torx headed bolts that hold the subframe to the bike. The entire subframe and heat shield will come off as an assembly.

It won’t come off because of the metal heat shield that’s attached to the subframe.

I guess I’m going to need to take the carbon cover off that part which means taking the rearset off.
 
I think it's easier to put back it together if the outer plastic heat shield and the stainless one are off. But mines a SF which has a subframe meant to support about 6000 lbs of rider and passenger. I don't get the bolt replacement thing. Those bolts are herky and are not torqued anywhere near their yield. Must be for folks that are high volume, low surface area.
 
I have actually bought new bolts based on the workshop manual comment that you mentioned.

If you were putting new bolts in would you go Ducati or Akra torque spec? I’m guessing Akra’s lower torque is based on using the original bolts.

The workshop manual for the V4R seems to say 31nm for all four and greased first, unless I’m reading it wrong… I thought it recommended the torque values you mentioned from memory.
If you are using new bolts, I’d go with the V4R manual 31/31 Nm value. The V4R manual that’s floating around is the newer than the V4S one that’s out in the world.

It won’t come off because of the metal heat shield that’s attached to the subframe.

I guess I’m going to need to take the carbon cover off that part which means taking the rearset off.
Yes, I presumed you already did so. The right rear set is removed, then the carbon cover on the heat shield, then the metal heat shield. The metal heat shield is two pieces, the smaller half is attached to the black plastic part which is attached to the subframe. It’s also screwed into its other larger half, which is under the carbon cover. The larger half is also bolted to clips on brackets which are attached to the exhaust pipe.
 
If you are using new bolts, I’d go with the V4R manual 31/31 Nm value. The V4R manual that’s floating around is the newer than the V4S one that’s out in the world.


Yes, I presumed you already did so. The right rear set is removed, then the carbon cover on the heat shield, then the metal heat shield. The metal heat shield is two pieces, the smaller half is attached to the black plastic part which is attached to the subframe. It’s also screwed into its other larger half, which is under the carbon cover. The larger half is also bolted to clips on brackets which are attached to the exhaust pipe.

I removed the carbon cover and the larger metal heat shield. It still won’t come out because the smaller heat shield wraps around the front of the shock.

With the other stuff removed, I think I’ve got room to take it off using the four screws underneath the support that’s attached to the subframe.
 
Nope… can’t access the front right bolt…

It looks like I need to remove the three bolts from the top that secure the holder to the small heat guard. I was hoping not to touch those as they very much look like the Ducati cheese bolts…
 
The front right bolt for what?

The plastic hanger that attaches to the subframe - the smaller heat guard attaches to it. I took the subframe apart a bit and managed to get it off the bike.

I took the brackets off that the exhaust hangs from, went to put them on the Pierobon rear subframe and the original bolts are too long to go in… bloody aftermarket! 🫣 🤬🤷‍♂️🤣
 
I can fix the hangers using some spacers that I have, but the lower plastic cover does not fit. I thought it had attachment points for all of the OEM stuff? The frame does not allow the OEM lower plastic to fit. That’s annoying.
 
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