Fuel Tank Removal

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bp_SFV4 said:
You only need to remove the 4 torx headed bolts that hold the subframe to the bike. The entire subframe and heat shield will come off as an assembly.
Click to expand...

It won’t come off because of the metal heat shield that’s attached to the subframe.

I guess I’m going to need to take the carbon cover off that part which means taking the rearset off.
 
I think it's easier to put back it together if the outer plastic heat shield and the stainless one are off. But mines a SF which has a subframe meant to support about 6000 lbs of rider and passenger. I don't get the bolt replacement thing. Those bolts are herky and are not torqued anywhere near their yield. Must be for folks that are high volume, low surface area.
 
spooky said:
I have actually bought new bolts based on the workshop manual comment that you mentioned.

If you were putting new bolts in would you go Ducati or Akra torque spec? I’m guessing Akra’s lower torque is based on using the original bolts.

The workshop manual for the V4R seems to say 31nm for all four and greased first, unless I’m reading it wrong… I thought it recommended the torque values you mentioned from memory.
Click to expand...
If you are using new bolts, I’d go with the V4R manual 31/31 Nm value. The V4R manual that’s floating around is the newer than the V4S one that’s out in the world.

spooky said:
It won’t come off because of the metal heat shield that’s attached to the subframe.

I guess I’m going to need to take the carbon cover off that part which means taking the rearset off.
Click to expand...
Yes, I presumed you already did so. The right rear set is removed, then the carbon cover on the heat shield, then the metal heat shield. The metal heat shield is two pieces, the smaller half is attached to the black plastic part which is attached to the subframe. It’s also screwed into its other larger half, which is under the carbon cover. The larger half is also bolted to clips on brackets which are attached to the exhaust pipe.
 
bp_SFV4 said:
If you are using new bolts, I’d go with the V4R manual 31/31 Nm value. The V4R manual that’s floating around is the newer than the V4S one that’s out in the world.


Yes, I presumed you already did so. The right rear set is removed, then the carbon cover on the heat shield, then the metal heat shield. The metal heat shield is two pieces, the smaller half is attached to the black plastic part which is attached to the subframe. It’s also screwed into its other larger half, which is under the carbon cover. The larger half is also bolted to clips on brackets which are attached to the exhaust pipe.
Click to expand...

I removed the carbon cover and the larger metal heat shield. It still won’t come out because the smaller heat shield wraps around the front of the shock.

With the other stuff removed, I think I’ve got room to take it off using the four screws underneath the support that’s attached to the subframe.
 
Nope… can’t access the front right bolt…

It looks like I need to remove the three bolts from the top that secure the holder to the small heat guard. I was hoping not to touch those as they very much look like the Ducati cheese bolts…
 
bp_SFV4 said:
The front right bolt for what?
Click to expand...

The plastic hanger that attaches to the subframe - the smaller heat guard attaches to it. I took the subframe apart a bit and managed to get it off the bike.

I took the brackets off that the exhaust hangs from, went to put them on the Pierobon rear subframe and the original bolts are too long to go in… bloody aftermarket! 🫣 🤬🤷‍♂️🤣
 
I can fix the hangers using some spacers that I have, but the lower plastic cover does not fit. I thought it had attachment points for all of the OEM stuff? The frame does not allow the OEM lower plastic to fit. That’s annoying.
 
Last edited:
KarlKani said:
oh yeah on the SSTK Pierobon SF you need shorter bolts or spacers, I kept that lower shield on with STK SF and removed it with SBK SF
Click to expand...

I wanted to keep the bt you remove with the key because it’s a perfect place for the data logger and access is required to access the data. I had been under the impression that the lower plastic part would fit but it certainly does not seem to.
 
IMG_1472.jpeg
 
@andyb

Thanks. The subframe seems to contact the lower cover at the bottom of the hole for the license plate holder and prevents it closing up. I’ll have another look after I’ve finished my beer.

Did you not have any issues routing the cable to the lock?
 

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