H20 Race Radiator
- Thread starter Hatchet
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I didnt install mine, but what I will tell you is get some hardware cloth for internal vertical rad fins. Mimic the hardware cloth on the from facing bit, my vert fin caught a stone on track it was a tricky spot to be able to tell where the leak is coming from.
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Its a fairly easy and straightforward job and its delivered with a bunch of photos detailing the install. The only really annoying part is connecting the T-shaped silicon hose and its hose clamps to each cylinder bank. Nothing too complicated, but you'll be spending a fair bit of time fighting it. Will also require cutting a bit of the hose to the right length on each side, just make sure you do it in stages and dont slice off too much of the hose in one go.
Also, save yourself hours of annoyment by having that little tool in 7mm on the photo below to tighten the hose clamps. Theres not gonna be any room in there for your hand so you ll spend a long time tightening each of them if you use a normal wrench. Also, this hose (labelled 1) and its clamp needs to be installed before the T-shaped hose and clamps (labelled 2).
Took me a full day. Probably half that if you've done it before or if you're more competent than I am.
Also, save yourself hours of annoyment by having that little tool in 7mm on the photo below to tighten the hose clamps. Theres not gonna be any room in there for your hand so you ll spend a long time tightening each of them if you use a normal wrench. Also, this hose (labelled 1) and its clamp needs to be installed before the T-shaped hose and clamps (labelled 2).
Took me a full day. Probably half that if you've done it before or if you're more competent than I am.
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If you have the termingnoni exaust you will have trouble with the oil line in left side it literally comes out right next to the headers, ACRA is fine. Quality is good also look at febur they are similar price/quality
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I have the Termi D200 and didnt have any issue with the clearance there. Superbike Unlimited also used a H2O/termi combo for their build and all seemed ok
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The SBU oil cooler line was rubbing on the lower header pipe they had a slightly longer one made but that also ran really close and that caused damage to the aluminium fitting. Could you please post up a picture of your setup? I have 2 radiators ( one is the SBU one they we're running) and both are different where the oil lines are connected to the oil cooler
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I m away from the bike for another week or so. Only have these 2 not so great pics on my phone
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Actually scratch what I said if SBU had the issue on their bike... I have the stainless termi (as I need to keep the bike over a certain weight in my class). It was advertised as a "full system" but actually turns out you keep the front 2 stock headers... Pretty scammy but wasnt able to get a refund... My fault for not doing enough research and falling for the misleading italian bs
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Yeah, very confusing when shopping around different websites. I have only come across one site that actually posted that bit of information. Everyone else just writes “headers in full titanium” etc, even though only the rears are included.
Personally I would opt for the 3/4 system anyway, but they definitely should be more forthcoming in their product description.
I have had a few custom radiators built by H2O. They can put the fittings wherever you want them (within functional parameters) and you can specify what type of water and oil fittings (press fit, AN, Wiggins etc) When you start these “modified” builds, your going to at some point run into a less than optimal mechanical situation.
Instead of cobbling a standard part to fit into a potentially bad situation, it’s a decent idea to plan a design of what works best and reach out to the mfg to see if you have some options. I get the radiators configured how I want them and order just the radiator. I make my own hoses and ancillary pieces and had Mick make some custom carbon shrouds (the stock fiberglass pieces are pretty bad).
Instead of cobbling a standard part to fit into a potentially bad situation, it’s a decent idea to plan a design of what works best and reach out to the mfg to see if you have some options. I get the radiators configured how I want them and order just the radiator. I make my own hoses and ancillary pieces and had Mick make some custom carbon shrouds (the stock fiberglass pieces are pretty bad).
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Cheers mate
I really appreciate this , the one issue was if I need to remove the hoses under the airbox this one
Thank you so much
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I’ve got the arkapovic system so hopefully I’ll be ok
Yes, every coolant hose under the airbox has to be removed. When I did mine I took the throttle bodies off to make it easier and to verify all of the hoses were on all the way. You may need to trim the carbon fiber shrouds to fit your bodywork and make sure the front tire is far enough away at full travel.
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Yes, you need to remove those along with the plastic thermostat body and replace with the ones provided by H2O. The thermostat sensor will be be installed someplace else. All will be clear when you look at the photos provided by H2O. Unlike @wortdog mentions above I didnt remove airbox and throttle bodies so its a tight working space but probably still overall quicker way to do it.
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Correct. I initially had some contact with the tire at full travel. Just push the oil cooler as far back as possible. As close to the headers as possible without them contacting. Theres now about 5mm clearance between the oil cooler and headers and all is well
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The problem I have is I bought the radiator from here so I didn’t get any info or photos just the radiator and hoses so I’m kinda confuse on it , but I’ll strip the race bike down and give it a shot
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Cheers mate
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