Heat , insane heat.

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I made a similar comment in a different thread on this subject. None of these things alter the amount of heat produced by the engine. They just trap it in, or possibly redirect it.

Exactly. Unless you find a way to get some airflow to that area to move the heat out, nothing is going to change it. I never bothered to get the updated covers installed on my 12 for that reason. Better out than in as far as I'm concerned.
 
Exactly. Unless you find a way to get some airflow to that area to move the heat out, nothing is going to change it. I never bothered to get the updated covers installed on my 12 for that reason. Better out than in as far as I'm concerned.

That's why the rear cylinder covers are off on both our bikes.
 
Can we put heat tape on the underside of the tank like we do on the seat?
 
You're all wrong, there is a cure: Get your butt off of the seat more and ride faster.

And if you can't do that because you're sitting at stoplights, you should start re-thinking your bike purchases.
 
I made a similar comment in a different thread on this subject. None of these things alter the amount of heat produced by the engine. They just trap it in, or possibly redirect it.

Exactly . Trapping the heat in is just ridiculous air flow is the key to cooling the bike down .
 
I don't get it it, I do not notice the heat at all. I go for long rides and track. Maybe its cause I'm wearing gear. I don't even have the metal heat shield, just the carbon. The only thing I noticed going from my S to an R was those dame bolts burned my leg on the cylinder cover, removed covers no more burn.
 
Yeah keep telling yourself it runs cooler and I am sure you will believe it. You may even make some others believe it.

aww, I sense the butthurt. I'm sorry, I didn't mean to take it that far. I forgot that it was rude to challenge your opinions with pesky empirical data. Who'd believe an infrared thermometer over the mighty truth of The Word of Brad?

There are two sources of heat that combine to make the Panigale uncomfortable in hot weather. One is the motor. The other is the exhaust pipes.

let's say the temperature of the exhaust as it enters the header is, for the sake of argument, 1000 degrees. and if it is still 1000 degrees when it exits the exhaust into the atmosphere, you will have what is a "cooler" bike, because zero heat escaped through the exhaust pipes and all you have left is radiated heat from the engine casing.

obviously that's not the case. but the more you insulate the pipes, the less heat loss you have in the exhaust gases. or in other words, less heat cooking the subframe and seat. by cutting exhaust heat, you're not getting rid of heat completely - there's still the motor. But go for a spirited ride in 90 degree weather, then as soon as you park, pull out an infrared thermometer and see where it's hottest. It ain't the motor, I'll tell you that. It's that damned metal heat "shield".

ever notice that those with carbon heat shields complain the least about heat? titanium headers make a difference too. heat wrap helps, but the single most effective change I made to reduce heat transfer into the seat was to swap in a '15 Pani R carbon heat shield.

reflective heat tape deals more with the heat radiating off the vertical cylinder. It's not much, but there's more heat felt through my comfort seat (which I haven't taped yet) versus the thinner stock seat (which has been taped). no one would bother taping the underside of fuel tanks if it made no difference at all. a small difference is always better than no difference.

I also have the covers off my rear cylinder. It gives the motor a pathway to radiate heat directly to the air. It also looks nicer. But friends that have replaced the stock engine covers with carbon fiber covers get less thigh roast. And that heat doesn't "stay" in the motor. Being water-cooled, the heat eventually leaves the bike through the radiator. trapping heat all around the motor just makes the coolant work harder. as long as coolant temps aren't excessive, using the engine covers really ends up being a matter of personal preference (or being OCD about coolant temps being a couple degrees higher).
 
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aww, I sense the butthurt. I'm sorry, I didn't mean to take it that far. I forgot that it was rude to challenge your opinions with pesky empirical data. Who'd believe an infrared thermometer over the mighty truth of The Word of Brad?

guess where exhaust heat goes, if it doesn't radiate out of the pipes? It stays in the bike? Really? REALLY??

let's say the temperature of the exhaust as it enters the header is, for the sake of argument, 1000 degrees. and if it is still 1000 degrees when it exits the exhaust into the atmosphere, you will have what is a "cooler" bike, because zero heat escaped through the exhaust pipes and all you have left is radiated heat from the engine casing.

obviously that's not the case. but the more you insulate the pipes, the less heat loss you have in the exhaust gases. or in other words, less heat cooking the subframe and seat.

to opine that doing anything to reduce seat temperatures is completely ineffective really says that you're too lazy to do anything about it...other than pooh-pooh people that do try various approaches with the mighty internet keyboard. the thought of another Panigale running cooler than yours must really stick in your craw something awful :D

Exhaust wrapping is not without its risks. First, the higher exhaust exit temperatures can lean out the fuel mixture of an engine - sometimes severely. An overly lean situation can lead to rapid engine failure. Thus, wrapped pipes may necessitate either re-jetting or a change in mapping depending on your bike's fuel management system.

There is also a real risk of header and pipe damage due to excessive heat build-up. There are numerous reports of split and cracked exhausts that can be attributed to the use of exhaust wrap.

Some years ago John Wittner (builder of Battle of the Twins Moto Guzzis) warned against the use of such wrapping on titanium pipes, which overheat, react with oxygen, and transform into a mass of loose yellow flakes. During the two-stroke era in 500cc Grand Prix, bikes appeared for the Japanese GP with pipes insulated by various means. This was done to meet new noise regulations. Later, it turned out to have undesired tuning effects so its use was discontinued.
 
Exhaust wrapping is not without its risks. First, the higher exhaust exit temperatures can lean out the fuel mixture of an engine – sometimes severely. An overly lean situation can lead to rapid engine failure. Thus, wrapped pipes may necessitate either re-jetting or a change in mapping depending on your bike’s fuel management system.

There is also a real risk of header and pipe damage due to excessive heat build-up. There are numerous reports of split and cracked exhausts that can be attributed to the use of exhaust wrap.

Some years ago John Wittner (builder of Battle of the Twins Moto Guzzis) warned against the use of such wrapping on titanium pipes, which overheat, react with oxygen, and transform into a mass of loose yellow flakes. During the two-stroke era in 500cc Grand Prix, bikes appeared for the Japanese GP with pipes insulated by various means. This was done to meet new noise regulations. Later, it turned out to have undesired tuning effects so its use was discontinued.

This.

The exhaust gets hot on all bikes. If wrapping the exhaust was such a great idea, it would have come standard on bikes decades ago. And/or it would be available as a factory option, and/or aftermarket exhausts would come wrapped.
 
Exhaust wrapping is not without its risks. First, the higher exhaust exit temperatures can lean out the fuel mixture of an engine - sometimes severely. An overly lean situation can lead to rapid engine failure. Thus, wrapped pipes may necessitate either re-jetting or a change in mapping depending on your bike's fuel management system.

There is also a real risk of header and pipe damage due to excessive heat build-up. There are numerous reports of split and cracked exhausts that can be attributed to the use of exhaust wrap.

Some years ago John Wittner (builder of Battle of the Twins Moto Guzzis) warned against the use of such wrapping on titanium pipes, which overheat, react with oxygen, and transform into a mass of loose yellow flakes. During the two-stroke era in 500cc Grand Prix, bikes appeared for the Japanese GP with pipes insulated by various means. This was done to meet new noise regulations. Later, it turned out to have undesired tuning effects so its use was discontinued.

because of this, I'm planning to ceramic coat my pipes before riding season starts. as far as tuning goes, my bike was mapped with wrapped pipes. In any event, I have never seen my pipe wraps as anything more than a band-aid until I got around to something more permanent.

I would never wrap titanium; that's common knowledge. Anecdotally, titanium seems to retain heat better than steel, although I have never read anything factual proving that.
 
Don't be a nancy. Ride it out.

Screen-Shot-2015-06-22-at-210604.jpg
 
aww, I sense the butthurt. I'm sorry, I didn't mean to take it that far. I forgot that it was rude to challenge your opinions with pesky empirical data. Who'd believe an infrared thermometer over the mighty truth of The Word of Brad?

There are two sources of heat that combine to make the Panigale uncomfortable in hot weather. One is the motor. The other is the exhaust pipes.

let's say the temperature of the exhaust as it enters the header is, for the sake of argument, 1000 degrees. and if it is still 1000 degrees when it exits the exhaust into the atmosphere, you will have what is a "cooler" bike, because zero heat escaped through the exhaust pipes and all you have left is radiated heat from the engine casing.

obviously that's not the case. but the more you insulate the pipes, the less heat loss you have in the exhaust gases. or in other words, less heat cooking the subframe and seat. by cutting exhaust heat, you're not getting rid of heat completely - there's still the motor. But go for a spirited ride in 90 degree weather, then as soon as you park, pull out an infrared thermometer and see where it's hottest. It ain't the motor, I'll tell you that. It's that damned metal heat "shield".

ever notice that those with carbon heat shields complain the least about heat? titanium headers make a difference too. heat wrap helps, but the single most effective change I made to reduce heat transfer into the seat was to swap in a '15 Pani R carbon heat shield.

reflective heat tape deals more with the heat radiating off the vertical cylinder. It's not much, but there's more heat felt through my comfort seat (which I haven't taped yet) versus the thinner stock seat (which has been taped). no one would bother taping the underside of fuel tanks if it made no difference at all. a small difference is always better than no difference.

I also have the covers off my rear cylinder. It gives the motor a pathway to radiate heat directly to the air. It also looks nicer. But friends that have replaced the stock engine covers with carbon fiber covers get less thigh roast. And that heat doesn't "stay" in the motor. Being water-cooled, the heat eventually leaves the bike through the radiator. trapping heat all around the motor just makes the coolant work harder. as long as coolant temps aren't excessive, using the engine covers really ends up being a matter of personal preference (or being OCD about coolant temps being a couple degrees higher).

I did not read all of your answer. Its okay you did not upset me. You lost all credibility with me when you:

forced sprockets nuts on that were a different thread

and

tried to use a 5mm hex or similar when trying to tighten your cush drives, which requires a 12mm hex.


Anyway apart from a chuckle every now and then, I do not get too much out of reading your posts, so will probably not read too many in future.

I am sure you will not be reading too many of mine. Good luck with your bike and I hope you stay safe on the road.
 
I did not read all of your answer. Its okay you did not upset me. You lost all credibility with me when you:

forced sprockets nuts on that were a different thread

and

tried to use a 5mm hex or similar when trying to tighten your cush drives, which requires a 12mm hex.


Anyway apart from a chuckle every now and then, I do not get too much out of reading your posts, so will probably not read too many in future.

I am sure you will not be reading too many of mine. Good luck with your bike and I hope you stay safe on the road.

You didn't read all of it :eek: What he said was he transferred the heat from the rear cylinder into the already under sized radiator heating up the bike so it can suck any HP gains his modifications have given him :)
 
Thanks. Do you have a pic of how they wrapped your duc tank?

Sorry I do not. I have seen very little of the bike to be honest. D&D Cycles in Pensacola took it out of the crate and race prepped it. Now it is at Livengood motorsports being dyno tuned for race fuel and having the fluids flushed/swapped. I had it for a few days in between, but didn't touch anything.

Livengood likes it better when I just ride them. Haha. He doesn't like anybody messing with my bikes, including me. :D
 
I did not read all of your answer. Its okay you did not upset me. You lost all credibility with me when you:

forced sprockets nuts on that were a different thread

and

tried to use a 5mm hex or similar when trying to tighten your cush drives, which requires a 12mm hex.


Anyway apart from a chuckle every now and then, I do not get too much out of reading your posts, so will probably not read too many in future.

I am sure you will not be reading too many of mine. Good luck with your bike and I hope you stay safe on the road.

I will be losing many nights of sleep, due to the fact that I've "lost credibility" with an egotistical Aussie. I'm feeling the meaning of my life slip away as I speak, actually.

The sprocket nuts? I did you one better. I actually bought the correct thread. They come in sets of 5 - I bought two and have 4 spares. I did use a tap to rethread the nuts, but the fact that they were modified in the first place, even if done so correctly according to Brad Standards, is inferior to using threads machined accurately from the factory. That was the last piece of crap advice I ever took from you.

How do I know? I took a rethreaded nut (with a high quality tap at a machinist friend's shop) and tightened it to spec. No problem. I then went about 10-15nm past that, and it stripped. With CNC Racing nuts with the correct threading, I went 25nm past spec and nothing happened (I did this with one of my spares). Since I already had 10 nuts with the correct threading on hand, I tested the rest of the rethreaded nuts. All failed at about the same torque. Brad-Modified CNC Racing nuts do not have enough margin of safety, period.

If you have AFAM cush drives and want to use CNC Racing nuts, you need to buy two sets of nuts that are meant for 5-bolt Monsters and the like.

RETHREADING CNC RACING NUTS WILL HOLD TO THE SPECIFIED TORQUE, BUT NOT MUCH PAST THAT. CNC RACING NUTS THREADED TO MATCH AFAM CUSH DRIVES WILL HOLD FAR BEYOND THE SPECIFIED TORQUE.
 
You didn't read all of it :eek: What he said was he transferred the heat from the rear cylinder into the already under sized radiator heating up the bike so it can suck any HP gains his modifications have given him :)

apparently you can't read english either. my bike has the rear cylinder covers removed.

My bike makes decent horsepower; I've done alright with what I've done to it. Want proof? Here's an Alpha 10 GT-R, dynoed at over 950 AWHP, versus my bike, ridden by my own overweight self:

https://youtu.be/PYQDtQti120
https://youtu.be/7UR0MmF_7mA

Still trying to figure out where any of my power gains got sucked anywhere....
 

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