Interesting Youtube video I found to run 1299 30 degrees cooler

I’m assuming that once the pot is placed in series with the temperature probe, the readout on the screen of what temperature of the water is will also be incorrect

Chill said:

I'm assuming that once the pot is placed in series with the temperature probe, the readout on the screen of what temperature of the water is will also be incorrect

Click to expand...

This is a very good point and question.

It could also be a place for some of the more technical members (or some that claim to be) to share there metal and advise?

Before you put a resistor of any kind variable or fixed in the temp sensor circuit you better be sure that the temp sensor only runs the fan and is not the same senor used by the ecu for engine temp. This would screw-up your bikes a/f if it was the same sensor.
I believe the Panigale only has one temp sensor used by the ECU for fueling and fan control so that idea is a no go. (I may be wrong about one sensor never really looked) Your options at this point then are manual override switch or Reflash the ECU with lower turn on point. I don't know if any of the interceptor style boxes change the fan turn on point.

rpm429 said:

Before you put a resistor of any kind variable or fixed in the temp sensor circuit you better be sure that the temp sensor only runs the fan and is not the same senor used by the ecu for engine temp. This would screw-up your bikes a/f if it was the same sensor.
I believe the Panigale only has one temp sensor used by the ECU for fueling and fan control so that idea is a no go. (I may be wrong about one sensor never really looked) Your options at this point then are manual override switch or Reflash the ECU with lower turn on point. I don't know if any of the interceptor style boxes change the fan turn on point.

Click to expand...

This is a very good point.

Cheers

Chill said:

I'm assuming that once the pot is placed in series with the temperature probe, the readout on the screen of what temperature of the water is will also be incorrect

Click to expand...

Yes it will, and see the point made by rpm29 below.

Cheers

Captain Greg said:

This is a very good point and question.

It could also be a place for some of the more technical members (or some that claim to be) to share there metal and advise?

Click to expand...

I believe in his bike build Endodoc put a switch on his fan to activate it at a lower temp than factory. I don't know that he is on here as frequently as he used to. Gecko is also a smart guy, but I haven't seen him in on here in a few.

Halo2 said:

Going to have head gasket issues much later on letting coolant reach that high all the time.

Click to expand...

Nah - 200-220 F is very safe with a good synthetic oil, my Kawasaki 300X t-stat is closer to 250-260F

ultra300x said:

Nah - 200-220 F is very safe with a good synthetic oil, my Kawasaki 300X t-stat is closer to 250-260F

Click to expand...

Quick google
Thats a oil thermostat though, it has no thermostat for cooling.

True - but oil and water temps (in a closed loop system) are about the same once the motor gets up to temp, obviously it takes the oil much longer to reach that temp from a cold start. The Kawasaki is not closed loop cooling

cmh210 said:

I believe in his bike build Endodoc put a switch on his fan to activate it at a lower temp than factory. I don't know that he is on here as frequently as he used to. Gecko is also a smart guy, but I haven't seen him in on here in a few.

Click to expand...

Thanks... I'm still here, and I'm still doing funny stuff to my Panigales
I'm frustrated because all the old posts on the forum have their attached pictures deleted.

Temperature: There is only one engine temperature sensor. Data is used by ECU, Dashbaord and BBS. BBS then controls the fan. I wouldn't change anything that changes the sensors readout values!

The solution with a relay shown in the vid is pretty good. If you're not fond of mechanical relays you can do the same with a MOSFET.

Simplest would be a mechanical switch that switches between BBS output and 12Vdc: Fan would then be Auto or permanently on.

Did anybody check whether Dash throws an error if fan is not connected?

I did a manual switch for the fan, just direct wired it to the battery using one of the 10A fuse between the fan and battery as protection. Whenever the temp hit 82-85C, I will turn it on, and it will maintain below 92C unless I happen to be caught in traffic, even then it will take quite bad traffic for the temp to hit past 102C. Very easy and good fix to manage the engine heat.

BUT, take note that the ecu will control the fan to come on at 104C, and if that happens when you had manually turned on the fan, it will throw all sorts of errors on the dash. What I did was when the temp went up to 103C, I will turn off the fan and let the ecu turn it on at 104C. Once it’s turn on, I will manually turn on the fan again so it will not cut off at 100C. A little bit of hassle but it’s something very easy to wire up in the home garage.

To further help with engine heat, I had also recently installed the Booster Plug, it tricked the AIT to read 20C lower in air temp, then ‘tricking’ the ecu to inject in more fuel due to cooler air being denser and containing more oxygen. Had the first ride yesterday and butt felt that heat are coming from the headers rather than from the engine when previously I can actually feel 2 different sets of heat. The booster plug is plug and play, but a hassle to access the AIT sensor which is at the back of our dash. It also has a external sensor which I installed it just under the cowling.

Do note that in Singapore, average temp in the day is about 33C-34C all year round, sometimes going as high as 34-35C

All in all, satisfied with this 2 simple mods.

Gecko said:

Thanks... I'm still here, and I'm still doing funny stuff to my Panigales
I'm frustrated because all the old posts on the forum have their attached pictures deleted.

Temperature: There is only one engine temperature sensor. Data is used by ECU, Dashbaord and BBS. BBS then controls the fan. I wouldn't change anything that changes the sensors readout values!

The solution with a relay shown in the vid is pretty good. If you're not fond of mechanical relays you can do the same with a MOSFET.

Simplest would be a mechanical switch that switches between BBS output and 12Vdc: Fan would then be Auto or permanently on.

Did anybody check whether Dash throws an error if fan is not connected?

Click to expand...

Thank you for this, can I ask if there is a problem with the 12V positive at the fan going back into the circuit when the ECU switches it on? or if its off and the ECU is still below switching temp? Or is that what your asking? will it then not be possible to add a diode of suitable current carrying capacity in the line that we break to connect the relay and manual switch>? this will then prohibit the ECU detecting the +12 on the line, and from my understanding a diode will only show a voltage drop of 0.6Volts so the fan will still get sufficient volts when the ECU switches it on at 104C?

Gecko what is BBS? sorry bud Im not a software guy and have very limited computer skills Im also not scared to try and and make a plan.

I think your post was one of the most contributing in this thread

Captain Greg said:

Thank you for this, can I ask if there is a problem with the 12V positive at the fan going back into the circuit when the ECU switches it on? or if its off and the ECU is still below switching temp? Or is that what your asking? will it then not be possible to add a diode of suitable current carrying capacity in the line that we break to connect the relay and manual switch>? this will then prohibit the ECU detecting the +12 on the line, and from my understanding a diode will only show a voltage drop of 0.6Volts so the fan will still get sufficient volts when the ECU switches it on at 104C?

Gecko what is BBS? sorry bud Im not a software guy and have very limited computer skills Im also not scared to try and and make a plan.

I think your post was one of the most contributing in this thread

Click to expand...

BBS is not a piece of software, it's the small black box below the seat. Instead of the the ECU this device controls the fan (pin 1).
If it is really the case that the dash throws errors whilst the fan is not detected when the BBS tries to power it up, I would go the route with two high current diodes.

One from BBS output to the fan 12Vdc input.
The other from a 12Vdc switch to the fan 12Vdc input.

Gecko said:

Did anybody check whether Dash throws an error if fan is not connected?

Click to expand...

Yes, dash throws error when BBS ignites fan but fan not present. When fan not present and BBS is not igniting fan, then no dash error.

EDIT: I wired an SPDT relay for the fan so I can manually turn on the fan or let BBS control switching. But when I have the fan manually on, a dash error occurs when engine temp reaches factory temp threshold to cue BBS to ignite the fan but the fan is not present.

You could use this https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/imperial-adjustable-thermostatic-fan-control-226203/6016936-P?navigationPath=L1*14922%7CL2*15019%7CL3*15910
It is rated for up to 16amps, cut the wire going from the fan to pin one. Install a dropping resistor on the side going to pin one to simulate the fan still being there and run a new wire from the battery to the thermostatic switch to the fan. use proper fuse and such.
I've used them on some "street" racecars and it always worked fine, Never got use to inserting things through the fins of a radiator, I haven't done it to the bike since I have tuneboy and the base tune has a lowered fan turn on point, woolich racing allows you to set any point as well on there ECU flashes

I am not an electrical trained guy so I am actually not sure why that happened. When I do the same mod on my previous jap bikes, they all dun exhibit this symptoms. The theory that I can come out with is that ducati, in their quest to reduce weight, the wires they use for electronic stuff are so carefully calculated in terms of their loading that any fluctuations in the current especially higher that is required, will throw an error, to prevent the wires or components wiring from overloading and causing electrical fire.

Could be a case of the ecu thinking “okay, engine temp is high, time to switch in the fan. Hang on, enough current is already being fed to the fan to turn it on, could it be current leak? Better throw error code” and all the errors start showing up and we panic.... so I let the ecu do the work of turning on the fan, then with the fan already on, I just manually “join” in manual switching on of the fan.

But I do not understand and know why when the ecu cuts off the fan and the manual switch is keeping the fan running, the ecu doesn’t think “ time to off fan, how come fan still running? Time to throw error code”. Probably could be that to turn on the fan, the ecu need to activate certain amount of current to start the fan, but to turn off, there’s no need to, but in fact current is just reduced when cut.

These are just my simple explanation I tell myself how it works, and so far so good for me

THIS IS ONE OF THE BEST THREADS !!! that I have read in a long while . Thanx to all who contributed to keeping my nuts cool this summer .
I too have noticed that there are two distinct heat sources .Exauhst Wrap is on my shopping list , anyone out there having done that I would appreciate input to this thread .
Together ,exauhst wrap & switch ,would make our Panis a very Comfortable ride I would think ?
If you're stuck in traffic and your nether regions are being baked ,you are not riding SAFE,CAUSE YOUR MIND IS ELSEWHERE !!! Even losing a few seconds to thinking about something besides being SAFE puts you in HARM'S WAY .COMFORT MEANS ,YOU GET TO PAY ATTENTION TO YOUR RIDE . again , Thank You for this information .

Dont want to hijack this thread....can anyone confirm if the V4 runs cooler to the feel?? I have yet to find any info on this or any complaints regarding heat on the V4