Map sensor

outhouse · Jul 7, 2019

is there way to bench test these?

Did a plug change on my 13 and it ran rough for 30 seconds and cleared out and ran decent but still missing a little. Not really a miss just a slight slight stumble, will still hit 7k

So tonight I take both map sensors out, and ran it and it cuts out at 5k as everyone here describe. Reinstall the rear sensor and leave front out and it runs exactly like it odes without it. Installing front changes nothing runs identical. So im guessing that's the culprit.

using an ohm meter both seem similar. 7.80 on one pin and 14.3 on another

Fastsurge24 · Jul 10, 2019

Apply 5 volts to pin-1, pin-3 is sensor-ground. Check dc voltage on pin-2. Apply vacuum on the sensor port. I don't remember the voltages, but I think at atmosphere you should read 1.4 vdc, when you apply vacuum you should see a range depending on your vacuum source.

If your sensor outputs 5vdc with no change on pin-2, it is bad.

I use a variable vdc power supply and a Venturi vacuum for a brake bleeder

Good luck.

outhouse · Jul 10, 2019

Thanks fastsurge24. That will work great.

Figured out the easier way and it worked like a charm.

As I did above remove both sensors or just vacuum lines from both. Add one and see what changes it makes to running engine. No changes you have a faulty one.

When I added the horizontal cylinder one, it made no change to running engine with a few small blips of the throttle.

Today parts came in, added suspected new sensor and it ran like a champ again and no check engine light.

Hopefully your reply and my observations will help the next guy so they don't have to read 10 back pages looking for a easy solution, or buy the software and cables to check properly. I bought them anyway, and now ill clear that damned change oil light lol

williamchen1999 · Oct 24, 2022

Hey sorry so I think I’m having the same issue I disconnected the front sensor with i assume is for the horizontal cylinder and the bike runs the same now when I switch it up and disconnect the rear sensor it runs bad and shuts off… but weird thing is it never threw a check engine light. But what’s been happening is it’s been shooting constant flames on idle when warmed up past 180F with cats glowing. So it’s running extremely rich.

airjawed · Oct 24, 2022

Front is for vertical and rear is for horizontal cylinder. Opposite of what you would expect.

If one fails there is no check engine light. Apparently it'll run on the default fueling. If both fail then you would get the engine light.

Don't buy the very cheap chinese replacement. They are not in the correct range of voltage. It'll run but not in spec.

outhouse · Oct 25, 2022

airjawed said:
Don't buy the very cheap chinese replacement. They are not in the correct range of voltage. It'll run but not in spec.

Not sure about that. Been tracking mine all year with the cheap ones. Bike has been running as good as it always has.

Been through 2 sensors already, in the last 5 years, both cheap. I usually blew them when changing batteries. Now with a lithium, not having any issues.

If im not mistaken both originals failed. Bike is 9 years old. Its always good advise to avoid the cheap ones. But I was in a hurry. so far so good.

outhouse · Oct 25, 2022

airjawed said:
If one fails there is no check engine light.

Only one failed, and I got a check engine light on my 13S

airjawed · Oct 25, 2022

Not sure which ones you used but i got some that were around $20 and they work but not the same voltage as oem or the german made reasonably priced ones.

As for engine light it would depend on the nature of the failure.

MagicMike · Oct 25, 2022

One of mine was intermittent, chasing seemingly random idle stalling issues and noticed some funny flickering map values while looking at the tuneboy software. No engine light.

2 new OEM sensors and it's good now. Got another 2 on the shelf for new time as well, because there will be a next time.

Disco · Oct 25, 2022

airjawed said:
Not sure which ones you used but i got some that were around $20 and they work but not the same voltage as oem or the german made reasonably priced ones.

Can you put up the vendor and part numbers for the German ones?

Anyone with Tuneboy can cancel the involvement of the MAP sensors by changing the values of the FL table in tuneedit to 100. This means that it will be 100% fuel table values instead of Load table which requires MAP sensors. You might not want it to be permanent, but it'll make the bike ridable while waiting for your new ones to arrive.

Graydon · Oct 25, 2022

Glad you got it fixed. I thought I had a bad MAP sensor last year so I plugged in Melcodiag and applied vacuum and pressure just with my own lungs. From that, I could see the sensor output change dramatically. It worked the same on both sensors. That was what led me to look elswhere for my hard starting issue. Ended up being spark plugs.

airjawed · Oct 26, 2022

Disco said:
Can you put up the vendor and part numbers for the German ones?

Anyone with Tuneboy can cancel the involvement of the MAP sensors by changing the values of the FL table in tuneedit to 100. This means that it will be 100% fuel table values instead of Load table which requires MAP sensors. You might not want it to be permanent, but it'll make the bike ridable while waiting for your new ones to arrive.

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Map sensor

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