Modding my V4 for a right hand only rider

this started back in january when i bought it for 17k with 2200 miles on it. the previous owner had rattle canned and paint brushed various parts of the bike to include the frame. wheels, exhaust, axles, shock tower, forks, calipers, rear sets, swing arm.. you name it it had paint on it...flat black overspray, yellow painted parts , red painted parts, it was a fuqing nightmare, i thought i could just ride it..but man was i wrong. it was just a shame and i could not let it be.

so we started tearing it down.. every bracket, nut, bolt, lever, rod, part, et etc all the way to only the engine and swing arm left in the frame on stands.. then i spent months.. stripping..brushing cleaning, scraping picking. using laquer thinner, and paint stripper, metal picks. to remove every bit of paint that did not belong on any part of this bike. i think this guy was going for the murdered out look.. which has been murdered out in my opinion

no power tools of any kind were used, i wanted to save as many original parts as i could. but some could not be saved and were and will replace with carbon parts.
my goal was to get it back to 100 perfect original and make sure it ran properly and let my son test ride.. which he did and all was good after that i would start modding for me to ride it cuz once thats done no one else can ride it but me.. nor would i allow anyone to, its just too dangerous fpr someone who rides normally in my opinion.

so here some pics of our journey . hope you guys enjoy them

starting with the night she came into my life, thats my youngest son, hes 21

and some more

you guys ge the idea... the .... was every where even the GD chain was spray painted matte black.. OMFG,,, one link at a time guysd with a brush and towel and laquer thinner.. being careful not to use too much ;laquer thinner because it would ruin the seals.. just enough to keep the clotch damp and soften the chain lube and paint, it was absolutely terrifying

bp_SFV4 said:

I can't believe someone would paint a bike like that. There's a way to do it so it doesn't look so ...... but the previous owner didn't seem to care. Good work on unfucking it.

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thanks brother, i was back breaking, painful to sit for hours and hours in the same position scraping, wiping, washing , rinsing, repeating.. etc etc until the beautiful anodizing started to come through.. every single component was stripped down to its last nut bolt and washer..

finally last month her beauty started to come through...and i started to get excited.and anxious.
but alot pf scars started to show up..and i new it was just gonna get more expensive than elbow grease..

...., if you ask me

then i started to refinish the engine covers, they were facked.. some of the paint would not come off without ruining the under coat so the pain stor we go.
PPG and 650.00 bucks later here we go..i painted the woodcraft cover to match

i new this bike made alof heat so wrapped the headers and safety wired the wrap before putting on the cover and the heat shield has high temp tape under it as well , i also put a heat shield kit under the seat

starting to go back together

more assembly

at this point it was fully assembled and i let my son test ride and he decided his first sport bike would not be a v4 or a liter bike smart boy
since once i started to mod no one else would be able to ride it.. everthing went well and we parked it for a week as i tried to situate where the masters would fit.
and i ordered two goldline brake masters ,, but discovered that the left hand control switches which i move to the right, was way to bulky..

i ordered a jetprime switch set and have it mounted on the right side upside down, instead of rewiring the jetprime, i switch the left and right blinkers at the connections so the arrows on the switch are pointing in the right direction. and mount the start control box on the left upside down,,

theres not enough on a standard clipon so i have a piece of stainless tubing 24 inch longf in place of the bar. i am using aftermarket clipons as well, because i need to mount a larger bar and the aftermarket clipon gives me alot more flexibility ..

with the longer bar, i need to run it out about 2 inches further to give me a little more leverage so i can steer at highspeeds easier and switch directions easier.

after getting the jetprime switch situated, and the master cylinders situated which required at least 50 times of install and remove. i decided the housing for the drive by wire throttle was too damn bulky and then i ordered a jet prime E wire. which gave me more room for adjustment. i mounted the ewire under the front fairing on the right side, i nestles in nicely and i ziptied it in place so it does not move around or ar rattle, i had to dremel a small pocket on the right side cover behind the headlights to route the ewire cable through.

in the end it all worked out and all i need to do now is to adjust the clutch lever so it does not hit the right fairing at full right bar deflection..

once these were all well situated i had make some hydraulic lines.. i decided on goodridge 2mm professional builders hose and fittings.
once the stuff showed up we built 2 hoses for brakes and clutch very straight forward took about 2 hours and had no leaks except for a crush washer that ended up with little debris under it..

the following show that stuff... right now it sits with fairings off and i wait on damper mounts from a street fighter and an ohlins damper from a 1098s, i cant mount a damper in the original location, because the damper will hit the brake master cylinder because of its location.. no one makes a triple mounted amper setup for the v4.. there is a lateral mount kit but i did not want to spend 700.00 unnecessarily

the brake master cylinder juuusstttt clears the dash panel and front subframe. i also need to bend the end of the brake lever to bring it to within comfortable range of my right index finger. it should take very little pressure to stand this thing on its nose .


this is where i routed the wires for the e wire, i had to loosen the front subframe the ewire bundle running next the headlight wire bundle



heres the ewire housing nestled in its little spot and ziptied in place, i also later added some padding foam material that helps lock the housing in place.


another shot of the ewire bundle going under the subframe


this is where i dremeled a small notch for the ewire cable to pass through.



i pulled up the ignition switch and ran all the control wires under it and behind it




and this is my Mona Lisa

hers the bend we had to put into the lever to get it closer to my index finger, we used the hydraulic press and put would under and on top to protect the
finish of the lever , this is 98 percent where the right side will end up, i will make small changes to bar length and lever angles over time here and there

as it sits now


the reservoirs just clear the upper fairing, i had to tweak and rebend the reservoir brackets to get them in the right place and angles

frontal nudity of the masters and hydraulic lines

i was not able to get this black paint off without ruining the finish on the engine cases so i left, it there was no good way to mask this and avoid overspray
so i left it, and a shot of the clutch line


so i wait for parts for the damper, i need to also order some adjustable rear sets because my left knee and ankle have limited range of motion.. so i need to drop the position of the left peg and move it forward a bit....

and i discovered another problem

the clutch switch does not work.. the reason is that i am using a brake master and the switch on a brake master is a normaly open switch, the clutch needs a normally closed switch. but the clutch switch from any clutch master will not mount to a brake master because its a mirror image.. without the switch it will always auto blip..
i think the easiest answer to this is to leave the switch off..
and set DQS to up instead of up and down..

with the clutch switch disconnected the downshift auto blip still works, on the test ride yesterday i had no switch connected to the clutch switch line.

i dont need the clutch switch to restart while in gear because theres no way i can pull the clutch and hit the start button mounted in the left bar.
so i need to find neutral then restart if need .

i could epoxy a clutch switch in place on the brake master but thats kinda messy..
theres just no switch that will mount there and be normally closed.

bp_SFV4 said:

That looks SO much better. I really like how the Woodcraft cover/slider matches now.

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thanks, i had to use the blast cabinet to get through the anodizing..

i have the paint color matched for iit, i thought about maybe using an air brush, but airbrushes usually have very small needles and will not pass any metal flake paint. and the other problem is masking to avoid overspray in such a complicated area. its doable i guess but i didnt want to make it worse with silver overspray on everything else..

what u mean by pressure banjo.

oh you mean a pressure switch banjo.. we considered that but those banjo switches are usually for brakes which means they will all be normally closed switches and the clutch line requires a normally open switch..

it looks like a buell uses a banjo clutch switch, thats if the seller knows what they are selling.
i checked house of buell and there indeed two different part numbers for the brake banjo H0203A.1B6 and for the clutch banjoH0203B.1B6
but it still may be a normally closed switch instead of normally open, maybe a buell uses a normally closed circuit for the clutch

i really want to hook it back up because the mitsu ecu in this thing ,any know that the clutch is not being switch during use and very pissible the ecu is doing other things with a that clutch switch signal

ill have to purchase one and hope for the best.

so what i need to do is buy a clutch switch for the v4 then remove the activation bar it has on the switch.. and i can use it on my clutch master.
i used the v4s clutch master on the goldline brake master by removing the activation bar it had on it..which reversed its switching direction..
we just tested the brake switch , which used to be the clutch switch, and moved it from the goldline brake master to the the goldline clutch master and voila
it works as it should, in gear clutch out no start, in gear clutch in will start.
a brake pressure banjo switch will also work in this situation. because with the clutch out there no pressure and the circuit is open, apply pressure and the circuit closes.
im gonna try a brembo banjo brake switch.. the v4 clutch switch is 87.00 which insanity even for ducati