Modding my V4 for a right hand only rider

i got the final design for the scotts damper mount. and fired up the old printer. the only thing thats different on the print is the total height,, i cut it short to not waste filament. i really only wanted to check the size and see the shape of it in my hand and on the triple. also go the license plate light in so now i need to go to the metal shop and find a suitable chunk of aluminum. also i will make a pdf print of the sketch to use a s a template for drilling the holes.


it looks like i scaled the pic just about right, cad software makes that easy. im also going to be making a mount incase i want to mount a phone holder or gps or something along those lines. you never know. good to have options, i will also have to adjust the angles at the rear of the mount..where the arm will be swingin from side to side so theres no interference in the range of motion of the damper arm


the anchor just in front of the ignition cylinder you guys can see has a slightly different angle to it than the flat surface of the upper triple.
but it will not be a problem because of the way the arm on the damper is connected to the anchor. when i get that made and the damper installed it will become clear. but most of you probly already know what im talkin bout. im also going to have to machine some spacers so the two fasteners will hold the anchor down securely without being loose or have slop. and the ignition cover will have to be cut up a little

i decided to go ahead and make a new anchor point cuz the streetfighter version will have to be machined down to work, so i figured just make another if i can.
heres what i got..i made the anchor as short as i could too avoid the mount having to be too tall and looking weird.

top view , and you can see the double sided mount in case i mount a phone etc etc the anchor holes dont line up because of the depth of field of the picture, the top of the anchor is closer to the lens of the camera than the top of the triple.. so the holes dimensions are based off of the two mounting points on the bike and the fastening hardware. before finalizing the anchor i will 3d print it, to see if i can move the anchor point back a bit, for a bit more strength, but it all has to clear the ignition cover.

and a section view where the anchor and arm connect, i will have to face the top of the anchor at an angle cuz the triple surface is not parallel to the surface of the top of the anchor

i finally go the shift sensor cooling duct in after 3 months wait.. the gear sensor was already replaced to the newer one but i guess either this bike was not part of the recall or someone did not do the duct install when they did the sensor recall., not sure but i m glad i ordered it. money well spent, got the license plate light and a carbon cover for the hole where the original tail light was mounted

i went back and added some fabric wrap on the wires and smoothed the edges of the carvon where the wire goes into to prevent it fraying and shorting.

hello ladies and gents,
havent been on in a while, i was forced to put the v4 on the back burner cuz the c6 decided to eat 1 thru 4 synchros, it was the second gear burnout LOL the c6 vette has a weak clutch in it but it was fun as hell, so i was forced to spend moolah on rebuild set for the t56, torquetube rebuild set, and twin disc mcleod, and the transmission 5th and 6th cluster gear ate the output shaft, so on my birthday i called gforce transmission and got lucky they had 2 on the shelf, they hardened shaft has been unavailable for almost 2 years. that stuff plus the 5th and 6th gear set me back 2300.00 ouch. and im hoping the synchro hubs are reusable, now i just need to find the energy to rip my car apart

so back to the bike. i want yalls opinion. i finally found a good used scotts damper, i was awaiting on it so i ccould finalize the dimensions of the mount i mde, but..but im seriously questioning my decision to drill holes in the upper triple tree, honetly that scares the .... out of me. im 95 percent sure that it wont be a problem but theres that 5 percent part of me you know.
i think i can redesign a steering head top, the center spanner nut , so that it sticks out and up.. and the large mounting nut that comes with the scotts damper could screw onto it then the damper mount could go onto the nut in the usual way that scotts are mounted on sport bikes.
ill do a cad part but in the mean while what do you guys think of the drilling holes in the upper triple, they will have to close to the center yoke, thats what scares me.

heres what the part would look like, its twice as complicated as the original part because it requires threadmilling, and work on the manual lathe.
but this is what it would look like and nit would be the original mounting nut that comes in the mounting kit. if i get the thread depth wrong theres no way to remount the prt back in the mill to remove a little more, and i dont have a spare stem to thread into the part while its still locked in the milling vise. so if it wont thread on im fooked and restart the part and adjust milling parameters a couple tenths or so.

but i dont have to worry about it coming loose since the stem clams to it locking it in place and the nut can be thread locked on

heres the part to actual final shape
again anyone reading lemme know what you think about the 2 different mounting options

Do you think the thread might be an issue with the damper working against it even with thread lock?

You could clamp a bracket through the existing holes, putting bolts in a shear loading rather than torsional.

You could go the full hog and integrate the mount into a custom top triple. You seem to be all over the machining.....

haaaaa full hog. you know it didnt really occur to me to do a custom triple. i suppose i could do that, but it would require buying a subscription for dusion 360, because it would require, boring, drilling, threading, etc etc. right now im limited to only 1 tool because im on the hobby version. not a deal breaker, but more money. its turning into an expensive deal. but still worth it i think

as far as the nut coming loose, i would think not too much of a worry, i would be using the nut that comes with the damper kit, and then torqueing to whatever spec they recommend, although im not sure the threads on my part would hold without anodizing, 7075 full hard would be the strongest aluminum i could get without anodizing.
and im not sure how much stress that top nut has on it.

its definitely more complicated do a triple , only because i would need to find away to find the offset from center yoke to two fork tube centerlines.
and centerlines between tubes

But you also have a 3d printer? Measuring to the outside of the forks will give you the lateral centres once you subtract one fork diameter. For the axial offset you might need to remove the top triple, place a straight edge across the front of the forks and measure to the steering stem and do some math. If you do have the printer (from previous pics) just do a quick print of the geometry to confirm. You might end up with a custom piece that's pretty slick in the end

i got all the measurements minus the center yoke offset, and after about 6 hours of cad, i have to be honest that even something as simple as a triple is a complicated piece, and if im being honest with myself, my cad/cam abilities are a 3 to 3.5 and on the manual mill maybe a 6.5 at best. and i just want to move forward so ill be drilling and tapping the existing triple, if i start to see cracks, i will buy an aftermarket upper triple and drill it. going on 8 months and ive only been around the block on it, .4 miles.
and im dieing to just get on a go.

i got the mount done, and printed...and ive done what i could do to get the mount as low as i could, but its still pretty high. the anchor still has to be cut down by 16mm to get the pivot pin fit, what do you guys think, its sitting kinda tall, does it look goofy. normally im about function more than look ,
if it looks too goofy, i could maybe find the offset swing arm, and then cut the pivot down so it sits a bit lower in the anchor but i dont see the mount shortening much more than 5 or 6mm

after looking, through scotts parts, there us a stepped arm, but i cannot be used in the inverted position like i was thinking, i could easily design that, its a vert simple 2d part, but a fixture to hold it would be a PITA for me. the same with the anchor i designed,
i also just noticed that a stem/nut mounted step like they traditionally are mounted will not work, the nut has to be about 48mm the round base even bigger, so the mounting clamp that would slide onto the nut would be freaking humongous and be pretty much impossible to get it to lock onto the upper triple somehow.. so the original mount i made would be pretty much the only option. i will make as many adjustment as i can to the anchor mount thing, to lower the mounting height as much as possible ..even 5mm would be a huge difference in appearance

but ill keep working on the stem nut mounted to see if i can get something theoretically usable out of it before i drill the triple to use mount number 1

I'm concerned that drilling into a cast part without provision for tapped holes has a good chance if cracking.

As for your current geometry, it doesn't appear to obstruct the dash so the rest comes down to preference. Mine would be to use a plate arrangement only 5mm thick and clamp through the existing holes in the top triple. No drilling and no weakening of the existing part. If the v4 is like the 1199 then the larger holes have a recess around them, matching that would prevent a receiving piece from moving. This would be much lower profile.

i definitely hear you on the breaking, for the mounting bolts i used 4mm bolts (smallest i was comfortable with), and moved them as far from the center yoke as possible, away from the center stem nut into the meatier part of the triple. the holes in the triple will not go all the way through. ive looked at aftermarket triples and they seem to have even less material around the stem nut.

the reason i cant get it any lower is because of the anchor mount , the lower the mount goes, the thinner the anchor mount has to be, and the anchor mount is the piece taking most amount of force during slapper especially with the length of the arm multiplying the forces, i think i would be more afraid of the anchor mount breaking it its to thin, but the triple cracking is second in my mind

the white line is where i can maybe cut away some material from the anchor to lower 3mm is there, that will put the anchor super close to the stem lock where the blue arrow is, the yellow double ended arrow is where i can comfortably cut away 5mm, but no more because it might break, it might break anyway, but it still has alot of meat left to it. so the anchor top drops by 8mm
the anchor pin, has a 7.5 spacer on it that acts like a keeper and bushing to help sliding i could cut that down to 4mm. leaving me 3.5mm excess.
8mm gap
-3.5mm excess
mount drops 4.5mm

if i have to i could make a custom rotating pin, all metal with a minimum 2mm bushing surface. which would allow the mount to drop a further 1.5mm for a total drop of 6mm which is a HUGE chunk of distance and i would be happy with it, but its kinda of a balancing act of removing material, a little every where to get the right fit without sacrificing too much strength in one place, and kinda of the spread it out a little, theres always the chance that it will all fail and ill have to buy the side mounted setup olus all the parts i cut and broke. i know im taking chances here and nothing is for certain. but sometimes you just gotta keep stepping forward even though were not sure of the outcome,

the other problem im trying to figure out, is how to remount the ignition cover without mangling it. maybe ill get lucky and the ignition studs are made in away that i can easily use the ones from the streetfighter

the streetfighter ignition swith is completely different from mine so im on my own for that one.

i made progress on the parts for the damper and have mounted and checked them, in 3dprint form, so that i think is done.. i just need to cut down the pin, and cnc the parts , i got lucky and have 2 scrap pieces of 7075 to machine the parts out of, 7075 is overkill but quite a bit stronger 6065, so i hope they last, the anchor point is the only piece im worried about in the long run, but if i have to i can make out of 1144 stressproof which i know will never quit.
i got these guys in today, they look great but ... oucchhhhh the price. but im glad i didnt go with a copy version though . the next part thats goin to hurt will be the rearsets, thats the last expensive part minus the exhaust, but thats something i can do later

i want ti thank you guys, all of you for the suggestions and ideas, please dont think i blow those off, i do not, they go into my brains toolbox, and they do influence how i proceed

hello guys, sorry i havent posted in a while, other things like broken down cars and slab leak in the house, have been pulling my funds and attention in their directions, im in such a foul mood these days, its just life i suppose, you lay down and give up or you move forward just to spite lifes BS LOL. so i finall made some4 progress, but not after the coolant pump on the cnc mill seized and i spent 3 days trying to repair it to no avail so i had to spend more money on that, then the x axis lead screw was acting funny, it had debris in the ballscrew so we had to dis assemble all the 3 axis to clean and service ballscrews, then somehow that screwed the spindle zero to the table surface which affects all tool offsets, which is s a very bad thing. after 3 weeks of struggling i finally managed to get 2 parts out of it.

i had the time to mess around with some engraving so i did, top is the damper mount, and the bottom, is the anchor, the hole for the anchor has not been drilled and reamed to size yet, and i had problems with the above mentioned tool offsets so the anchor is not to dimension, all in all not a bad result but it should have been much better, im considering redoing them, so this was as they sat on the bike


i 3d printed a plug that would hold the mount directly on center to the yoke to avoid it being off axis and to make sure the holes being drilled were not damaging anyting they should not drilling.




then we drilled and tapped the holes to m4x7pitch, the bolts being rather small is the reason i opted for eight of them,


the counterbores are smaller than the heads of the bolts because i had little area to work with while keeping the mount as small as possible, so the heads of the bores are turned down on the lathe so they just clear the diameter of the counterbores


the mount and damper mounted where they will live and the anchor without the hole finished, i need to buy a small machinist vise so that i can hold the anchor at an angle to the mill head and drill the hole in the proper orientation. i think i will definitely be making the anchor again.

some machining clips i put together of the process warning there maybe some cussin, im not sure,
not much talkin at all though, im not a video editor, and definitely not a producer of any kind, i just record videos put them together and post em. in case they help others

i got thrown a curve guys but this is the way things go, you cant plan for everything, so the carbon ignition cover is really bulky on the underside so it did not want to lay well with the square edges of the anchor piece, it need to be trimmed to fit down and around the anchor. i ended up cutting through the carbon while removing material, to get it to fit, then i resorted to cutting the edges off the sides of the anchor piece and it worked.. so in the end im gonna need to repurchase the carbon ignition cover and do some redesigning on the anchor mount. heres some shots of the mess i made, not end of the world stuff but kinda shiddy , good thing is i can use this cutout on the ignition cover and make a patter for the next one.

the cover had brass tube imbedded in the mounting holes, which i had to drill out one bit size up at a time and managed not D it up during th process only to F it now
look and youll see the hole in the carbon..


this is the slot where the damper arm protrudes in to the ignition housing to engage the anchor pin


around the heads of the mounting nuts you can where i had to remove material, the holes in the ignition cover were not centered to the mounting studs so i had to remove material to get the piece i made to slide into the cover holes


heres the other hole


the slot where the arm goes under the cover


and all put back together.

after the changes to the anchor, it should fit much better and require alot less removal of the material where i cut through the carbon.
this should be a;ot more friendly to the carbon ignition cover when and if i decide to get another , i may not. but i will machine another anchor