Modding my V4 for a right hand only rider

Thanks for the likes everyone ..ill have to break off for a bit..helping my son repaint the engine bay in his resto..and big leak on the x5.drivelinr rebuild on the c6 ..its gonna be a tiresome twastard of a November. Gotta get that stuff knocked out efore it starts to get cold..my broken bones nd surgical implants are almost useless in winter time..so I'm saving the ls3 stroker build for the cold season since I don't care enough about my marriage to build an engine in the den lmao..ill post back as soon as I can ..thank you sll for your wisdom

i decided while we were painting my sons engine bay and some misc pieces it would be a good time to get my painting done as well.
the color of the wheels is what i think all Ducs should come standard with, its the memory i have of all of the most most beautiful Ducs in the past,
especially the red ones. Its all PPG, so the good stuff, it woulda been cheaper to powder coat them but they could not guarantee the color i wanted.
so i chose this avenue instead.
after an exhaustive search, i was no able to locate my right hand glove so had to by another pair and will have tp again modify the left glove so it can do what
i need it to do.

LOL you can tell where my priorities are..

hello again

its been a while, but i got some time and got as bust as i could nd there are some other interesting things that i got into the pictures will explain.
i got finishing the damper setup, i was waiting on a reamer that i could not find. so had to mod the pin a little bit. i started with a spot drill and my son and i eyeballed, it was super critical for it to be dead center . i used a smaller vise clamped in my large milling vise to hold the part, then incline the smaller vise to the 11 Deg angle the top flat was machined at, that matched the angle of the top triple mounting surface. so spot drill

then hit go through it will a drill but that was .010 inch smalle than the diameter of the pin

then go through that hole with a reamer at 50rpm with cutting oil to avoid galling the aluminum.

but that reamer was about .00012 too small and the pin would not slide in. so i grabbed he pin in the lathe and protected the pin with some paper to not scar the pin surface and use some 500 grit sandpaper and oil to slowly remove material until the pin would just slide into the hole in the anchor. in the end i removed .00011 material from the pin. so with a little grease in the hole the pin can spin smoothly with no slop in it. i added blue loctite to the base sent the bolts home for what should be the last time for a while.


i sent the damper back to scotts for a service, another reason its been a while, loctited that in place, and everything fits nicely, then of course the rest of the covers.



then it was time to address the rearset situation. i did a ton of reasearch most if not all manufacturers i was considering would not send me anykind of drawings which i guess i cant fault them for that. i wanted tho do some modeling in CAD and see which rearsets would afford the most down and forward position of the left foot. for reasons you guts are all aware of by now. but that got me nowhere fast. so i resorted to downloading pictures and resizing them to the point that attachment points were at the same positions then overlayed them on aside picture of my bike wity the rearsets on it still to see which would give my left leg the most room it needed. i tried gilles, attack, motocorse, etc etc etc and different designs from ebay and anywhere i could find them that would supposedly fit a v4 i finally decided on these knowing full well i was going to have some problems, i spotted most of the problems roght off the bat, but they were problems that i could overcome. I might get some grief for this choice but its what i had to do and if it didnt work out, not too much money so no harm no foul except for the obvious foul which im sure you guys will agree on.

you will very quickly see that these are not gilles, but they were machined so fat out of wack that they sit considerably lower and farther forward than any other i could find. so much farther forward and lower and incorrectly machined (or mistakenly sold to fit v4) that
1. the fairings hit them on both sides and had to be trimmed back or they would not refasten to the mounting points
2. the kickstand hits the bottom of the shift lever causing the shift lever to actually hang up on the kickstand
3. the kickstand will not go all the way up. so i had to drill/tap a hole for a setscrew adjuster on the flat spot to limit how far the kickstand goes up.
4. there was no where to mount the rear brake switch. so no rear brake light till i machine a bracket to hold the switch or use a brembo pressure switch
5. there is no mount for the rear brake lever return spring. so i added a spring on the lever itself on the back side that pull the lever back to rest position.


heres the right side you can see no return spring. another thing i noticed about these is that with the footrests at full forward position theres alnost no way you can get your foot under the shift lever, im not sure whats going on with that but if in need to get my left foot that far fowrard i ca machine a longer adjuster part, same for the right brake lever adjuster i have a feeling that these might be for a v2, the brake switch mount on this is of the square variety like the ones that mount on the front master cylinders, but even in the highest up position these still sit lover than the factory, right now they are at the lowest and 1 slot forward from max rear position so they will go 1.5-13/4 inches farther forward. i would like to have folding footpefs on a street bike, you never know, they do come in handy when those unexpected knockovers happen

so yesterday, i could not resist, i had a new helmet, new sena, old jacket, new gloves, i got started early in the morning prepping my left glove with the velcro treatment LOL. added the hook portion of the velcro to the left handgrip, i dug out my old arm brace and readjusted it to fit my arm. i had to change out the battery the new lithium one i had purchased, the one it had in it was junk. it would take 3-10 attempts to start the bike.. then it would sound like it as running on only two cylinders until POP the other cylinders would light off. it was strange. once the new battery was in, i cranked faster and started on the first try. and no crazy popping during warmup.
all out of excuses, i hopped online to get some insurance, printed our proof , got all ready and away we went.

first impressions. its a very responsive bike. id say a bit more than even my old race prepped R1. its very sensitive but now twitchy, it was in street mode, engine braking on high. with every nanny turned off that i could turn off or on low. expect for abs of course. they have their uses but i prefer to learn to ride it with out any of that stuff. i feel that if i can ride it well when its at its nastiest its always better...the brakes are awesome without being snatchy. torque just everywhere. no matter what gear. the riding position is aggressive but not ridiculous .. thats easy enough to get used to. i noticed little to no vibration in the bar up to 9500, i didnt get passed that rpm in any gear. i need tp work on core strength again LOL.. but theres just not enough room to let it eat..and if im being honest its been to many years since i have ridden to pretend i was just going to get on it and own it, things just dont work that way. it just started to turn into a beautiful day and figured why the hell not. and even with stick exhaust this thing sounds amazing, A V4 is not a very common sight here apparently, i saw alot of finger pointing and rubber necking LOL


so as soon as we got back i tore it apart again the check the canister and vent lines, i used a smoke tester i recently got, and nothing is clogged or restricted, but even with the canister completely out of the circuit and the vent line open to atmosphere there is not sufficient venting to stop the build of pressure when the fuel is hot. i have never had a gas cap do that and i raced in 112F ambient air temperatures. the bottom line is that the venting port for the tank is undersized or maybe has an obstruction.. once you add the canister in, the restriction goes up . then for some reason, the heat from the header there next to canister is doing something to the canister or its contents causing a complete obstruction of vapor flow

im not sure how the solenoid works in this application but we did check the solenoid and it is working.

after we returned i used the smoke tester with only air and when the whole bike is hot, the canister was so restricted that i was able to get 13 psi of air into the tank and i would hold that pressure until i disconnected the vent line from the tank to the canister, as soon as i removed the line from, the canister the pressure would start to drop..but when the tank is hot it creates so much vapor that even the vent line being open to atmosphere it can barely keep up and dump vapor fast enough to keep pressure from building. i know this has all been beat to death but has anyone looked inside the canister to see whats going on.

even thought theres a solenoid to control flow of vapors to the airbox, its still not a closed system, because theres a drain (fire hazard) on the bottom of the canister. so technically pressure should never build to point that i saw and heard when the bike was hot. i will cutting open the canister and adding drain hose to the bottom drain of the canister and teeing it back into one of the drains, i cannot believe there was no hose to drain fuel away from the headers, that is a sure way to burn a V4 down especially of theres is an overfill situation when the bike is already hot then ridden aggressively, raw fuel will get pumped into the canister , drain out the bottom and onto the header, then POOF.

so ordered some heatshield for the tank. and im gonna cut open canister to see whats going on in there that could cause a restriction with high temps.
i also discovered the previous owner remove a chain guard,, so i ordered that stuff too.
but all in all the first ride went great, its everything i remembered it to be, nothing like in the world.

Dude, awesome to see you get back in the saddle. Keep the updates coming.

There're two vents on the bottom of the tank, next to each other. They both need to be open.

cmh210 said:

Dude, awesome to see you get back in the saddle. Keep the updates coming.

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brother i canty tell you how it felt to feel that wind rushing past my face and feeling the front end get light again. i knew i missed it, but i didnt realize just how happy it really makes me.

your correct Rick there are 2 ports but only the front line on the left of the underside tank (the right port in the filler neck) is responsible for venting.
the rearward port is for those filling mishaps to drain fuel from around the neck of filler port so the excess fuel can drain out the bottom
or to drain fuel that comes up onto the neck from pressure building when we open the lid , actually they both work in this way but only the right port is for venting when the lid is closed

on the filler hole up top... the hole on the left is the one that leads to the rearward port on the left side of the tank to drain excess fuel
the port on the right is the one responsible for venting of vapors when the lid is closed

so i believe i have found the biggest culprit in the pressurization of the tanks from the vapors.
here are all the goodies inside the canister

at the 2 arrows there are check balls with springs.. the line on the left is the one that leads to the solenoid then the airbox, the ball you se is a checkvalve to allows flow only in the direction of the airbox, so that positive pressure in the airbox cannot pressurize the fuel tank. the arrow i the right is the incoming vent line from the tank.
at the bottom right is the spring and check ball that would allow flow only towards the canister
a large part of the pressure building in the tank was because of the spring that is in this check valve. because of the spring, the tank will pressurize to the point that it is able to overcome the tension of the spring. wit the ball in its channel, theres about 1mm of space around the checkball that vapors have to escape through.

i applied heat with a heat gun, (nowhere near the amount of heat the canister sees in operation. and to my disbelief the inside diameter of the hole starts to get smaller and the outside diameter of the check ball increased, and it seems like this is directly proportional to rise in tempoerature. so whats happening is the already small area the vapors have to get through is decreased even more by heat. how much expansion actually takes place i would only be able figure out during use, but that gets more complicated than i want to get into or even could probably
the same would be happening to the other checkball and the flow of that one would be decreased as well. the other thing that is extremely highly likely is that when we fill our tanks to the very top to get every bit of mileage we can /// raw fuel is getting pumped into the canister turning the charcoal into an almost solid mass, kinda like trying to breathe through a wet towel.

when the bike is off, the solenoid is shut so all vapors must escape through the check ball with the spring, then through the charcoal out the bottom vent/firehazard
i think the size of the charcoal needs to be larger nuggets so that they dont compact all so tightly together and create alot of backpressure for the vapors trying to escape

so we have
1. large amounts of vapor being created by the tank not being insulated
2. being very close to a very high compression engine
3. vent line that is imho inadequately sized for situation number 1 and 2
4. check ball springs creating pressure that must be overcome by tank vapor pressure before they open (i really think some steel ball with just gravity assist in the right orientation would be sufficient instead of springs.
5. canister made out of a material that expands with heat and further chokes the ports in the canisters ability to dump vapors
6. in the right circumstances wet charcoal further choking the ability of the vapors to escape.
7. really small tightly packed together charcoal creating more backpressure.
its not just one thing thats creating the pressurization of the tank, its a bunch of small things coming together to create the perfect storm.
so i want to experiment, and i took out the spring and check ball coming from the tank vent line. and i decided to put the charcoal back in as test, because if i dont put the charcoal back to create some backpressure to the line leading to the airbox (when idling the solenoid is open and there is a vacuum on the line going to the airbox) the airbox will see a vacuum leak and start doing crazy things with fuel trims and starting idling etc etc. so im going to give it a shot with the spring and ball removed, put the charcoal back in and see if its just enough for the tank to at least mostly depressurize after some spirited riding within 5 seconds or at least enough that it doesnt sound like tire being slashed everytime i open the tank cap.

i want to do a test with and without the charcoal to see how much restriction the charcoal is creating.
but if the test with the charcoal in it is sufficient plus the tank insulation, then i wont cut back apart to do the test without.

1. im waiting on some hysol to epoxy the canister back together . i need some quality epoxy high temp because the bottom of the canister has a spring and plate that push up on the charcoal to keep it from rattling around and becoming dust from vibrations. if the epoxy fails, charcoal will fly everywhere LOL
2. i ordered am insulation heat shield kit for the bottom of the fuel tank. bout 4 days out.
3. i had to order a chain guard/mud flap thing ///// previous owner strikes again.
4. add line and T the drain on the canister into another drain line to vent gasses and any possible raw fuel out and away from the hottest damn part on the whole bike.
so by removing the check ball on the right in the pic.. which was preventing airflow towards the tank, (which was not needed because the line from the solenoid on the left in the pic already has a checkvalve preventing flow toward the canister/fueltank. so the only thing that should happen by removing said checkball is increased flow from the tank into the canister and out the bottom drain of the canister and im removing the the check ball on top of the arrow on the right, because its now useless with the lower checkball removed.,thatll create more flow as well

Remove the canister and route both tank lines to a catch bottle.

You need charcoal in the canister since you'll have liquid gas probably both from it sloshing around and the vapor condensing back to a liquid. Otherwise it will just dump out of the tube at the bottom on the canister and onto the inner side of the lower fairing.

1hander said:

brother i canty tell you how it felt to feel that wind rushing past my face and feeling the front end get light again. i knew i missed it, but i didnt realize just how happy it really makes me.

Click to expand...

It's better than therapy!

cmh210 said:

It's better than therapy!

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yes sir it is, and it was only 48.6 miles LOL. ill take longer trips a bit at a time, and im gonna have to get back into some kinda shape, at a minimum so i dont feel like i got hit by a train the next morning. but this isnt the long trip bike, there are others for that purpose .

bp_SFV4 said:

Remove the canister and route both tank lines to a catch bottle.

You need charcoal in the canister since you'll have liquid gas probably both from it sloshing around and the vapor condensing back to a liquid. Otherwise it will just dump out of the tube at the bottom on the canister and onto the inner side of the lower fairing.

Click to expand...

you right, without charcoal in the canister, its pretty much just a catch can with a drain. i probably should have just put a catch can in it and been done with it, but curiosity got the better of me, these little problems/engineering oversights seem to get the better of me when it comes to not letting go when i should. i already ordered the stuff to put the canister back together.

so im gonna go with the charcoal and add line to the drain and either T into one of the other drains, or use the left over nipple on the right side of the lower fairing, i have an unused one on the lower right fairing...so any raw fuel doesnt dump into the lower fairing. and i was thinking that all that vapor would condense back into a liquid but i was not sure, thanks for puttin that up.

i got in the last carbon bits that were to replace damaged plastic OEM pieces and i really like em, i doubt they are much if any lighter than the factory pieces but damn they dont look ok.



its funny that i never noticed it much with the canister on, but just from opening the farage door and direct sunlight hitting the tank. the vapors started to be noticeable pretty quick, although smell of gas is not a big deal in this garage, with chainsaws, motorcycles, lawnmowers etc etc its just a thing you kinda stop noticing after a while. although ethanol fuel does smell different than non ethanol. i prefer the stink of non ethanol

i figured out why these rearsets are wonky for the v4 but a great fit for me on the b4, they are mislabeled for the v4 but they are for the v4 streetfighter. this explains why they sit lower and are not as far back (not counting adjutment)
although i did overlook something that i said was wrong and was not actually wrong with them,

since the rearsets are for a 2021 streetfighter v4, the brake switch is different than whats found on a 2019 v4, so i will either buy a brake switch for a 2021 streetfighter or i just buy a front brake switch for my 2019 v4 which will easily mount in the spot provisioned on these rearsets (which is for a 2021 streetfighter v4 switch) and its already setup as a normally closed for brakes and has the correct connector.

i said there was no provision for the rear brake return spring,,,,,,,,,,,, wrong...it turns out i had my head up my ...,
this delrin piece was in the box but fell out was i was jerkin .... outta the box to get started ... once i stumbled on it, i knew what it was. so thats in their now, humbled by a piece of plastic


because these are for a v4 streetfighter, the master on the V4 sits too far inboard causing a lateral misalignment of the pushrod, it was WAYYYYY off. so i made some 3.5mm spacers to space the master out by the same distance and a 3.3mm spacer for the hinge pin shoulder bolt of the pushrod, these cumulative spacing brought the pushrod into alignment with the rear master cylinder, no its nice and straight.

so if yout got a v4 and want some serious forward positioning of your feet like i need ,
1. these will fit.
2. but require some trimming of the fairings.
3. the stock shift linkage will work,
4. if going GP .... you need to reclock the lever on the transmission by 1 tooth clockwise
5. need some spacers for the master and the pushrod shoulder bolt if you want the rear brake pushrod straight (could use 6mm washers)
6. youll need to buy 1 more front brake switch to mount on this rearset or no rear brake light

although i wonder if i could by the correct brake switcth mount and folding pegs...for my v4 from gilles, although it is kind of a dic move to buy the parts to fix these from gilles.

got lucky and received some goodies in the mail. the teknofibra tank heat shield from HHR performance,
i cant say enough about HHR, i ordered it and recieved a call from one of the guys at HHR and he wanted to know if i was in a hurry to get the kit, because he was outta town for 4 days, that if i really needed it, he would drive back 4 hours to get it sent out, to which i said no. but just that he would call and ask means alot.
so i already had the tank off in prep for this and cleaned off with denatured alcohol.

this stuff is super sticky, and the teknofibra fiber is like a felt liner, so it has some give but it will tear as will the aluminum outer coating if you push to hard
the tricky part as you guys know is getting into the low spots first. but i started at the pump and went forward, the sticky is sooooo sticky that its hard to separate the backing even,

i did have to cut in some reliefs and do a little trimming here and there, but that was more my fault in positioning. but it worked out great anyway.

once you have the big part down, theres a roll of foil that you use to close the open sections where the reliefs were cut, the tape is to seal in the openings and stop any fluids from penetrating in. the foil tape is embossed just like the rest of it. but if you look close you can all around the edges where i used the tape to seal them, i used the back of my fingernail to kind of burnish in the tape to the tank and really get it to stick down and seal fully. i did remove the tank mounts and just installed straight over them the tape is thin enough that it doesnt matter, just cut the holes out because the foil in the bolt could lead to the threads getting jacked up.


i used some reflective heat tape i had left yover in the center where i push in on the low spot pockets to seal the tears.

there was another section of heat shield, oval shape that is not mentioned and its not cut out to go around the fuel pump either, i did some searching and could not find anything on the interweb, so i used it for the rear section of the tank then i used the reflective heat tape i had to go over it. looks kinda crazy. like i said im not sure this even goes here but is the only place i could think to use it. so i sent it.


this will keep the heat to the tank in check a bit more and protect the paint from rocks under here.

as i was working on thithe tank the epoxy showed up, so after the above i reinstalled the tank and seat and moved on to putting the canister back together
first thing i did was use CA around the edges of the filters that go on the underside of the canister top, to make sure no charcoal found its way past and in to the airbox, highly unlikely but i wanted to be sure, so the all the edges are glued down where charcoal could have possibly got through..

since the bottom of the canister is spring loaded to keep the charcoal packed and keep it from rattling around. i used a piece of string tied to the moving base, through the spring and out the drain nipple on the bottom of the canister. i used 50 grit sandpaper to rough up the plastic anywhere there was going to be epoxy, the plastic is super slippery and theres no way any adhesive will hold for long if you dont rough it up really good.


next i pushed the base down onto the spring as far as it would go, then my son pulled the string tight wrapped it around the canister to keep the base inside compressed onto the spring, then i used some CA to tack the string together, put the white filter back down on the base the string holds it while i fill the canister with charcoal again.

i almost was able to get all the charcoal back in but not quite.hopefully its enough, cuz if the inside base goes up too high, the charcoal will all get passed and under the base, then its experiment over.


then i ran a bead of epoxy around the bottom rim of the canister top to get it ready, i kinda stacked the charcoal into a mound in the center, then pushed the top down onto it. the underside of the canister lid has some open space to take up the mounded up charcoal, but i didnt want to take a chance and end up with pieces of charcoal between the lid and base, thats why i ended up with a bit of left over charcoal, once it was on my son held it while i centered the lid then put a clamp on it to hold it together while i ran a bead of epoxy around it making sure that i got epoxy farther down the side of the canister so i had more surface area under the epoxy to hold it together.
once the epoxy is fully cured, 14 hours or so ill just cut the string and spring will compress the charcoal again.


next im waiting on some 3m clear protectant film, that i will use first on the headlights, they are too expensive not to and ill put some on a few key areas that really take a beating from rocks. im hoping this will help bring the tank pressure problem into check or at least make it where theres not so much pressure when i open the lid to refuel. until then i need to do a repair on the leadscrew nut on the lathe, if not ill have to order a part for it. its crazy how useful a lathe is.

Are you under some kind of regulatory licensing nonsense which forces you to keep the EVAP?

The shortest path is to use a racing gas cap which changes the venting.

bp_SFV4 said:

Are you under some kind of regulatory licensing nonsense which forces you to keep the EVAP?

The shortest path is to use a racing gas cap which changes the venting.

Click to expand...

no, not that i know of, one of my problems is i like fixing problems, i like a challenge and sometimes forget that not everything is for me to fix,
i want to keep the locking cap because ive had a bad experience with a haters and non locking gas cap
if what im doing doesnt work, ill just toss the EVAP and do what everyone else already knows works.

so i got the film in but i think this is either the wrong stuff pr it just sucks.. aside from the fact that i did a shiddy job at getting on there, which is not easy let me tell you guys, the shape of this thing is just a PITA. but for a second i thought i could live with it just yo get the protection the surface of the headlights would get so i set them back in and turned on the low then high beam, and it looked like hammered dog crap, either the texture of the film or the adhesive was diffusing the headlight in really ugly way so the lights looked foggy, and they had a yellowish tint to them so i ended up ripping that .... off. so its gonna ride like that.


i also figured out why they id not put a hose on the canister drain, with the hose on there, the hose is sitting damn near on the header collector, so i dug up some ceramic blanket i had left over from another project and pit one wrap around the hose with some reflective heat tape. the fuel hose and a Y connector and tapped into the excess fuel drain line. and it should be good to go but wont know for sure until i get a ride in and get some heat into the fuel tank. but just on start up, there was no weird idling or acting like it had a vacuum leak, but its possible that the evap solenoid was not open so remains to be seen. im not sure under what conditions the evap solenoid opens and closes.


on a weird note, before this take apart, when i turned the key on, switch to the run position, engine not running i noticed before that my low beam headlight was on, the last 5 starts i noticed that with key on, switch i run position, engine not running the low beam headlight is off. i also got a yearly service time remaining ??hours and a air temp sensor high engine code, i disconnected the battery for a few minutes and the engine light went and service remaining warning went also, you guys ever experience something like this.

So I am way late to this dance. First thank you for your service Sir. You and your son have done excellent work.
Second can you verify that the inhuman ....... that owned the bike before you is at least sterile and cannot procreate?
I know a late recommendation but have you considered the PMF twin master? It might clean up your right bar. It’s a $$$$ but might clean up an area where you have a lot going on. Universal Twin Mastercylinder

Again great work.

Ruhe52 said:

So I am way late to this dance. First thank you for your service Sir. You and your son have done excellent work.
Second can you verify that the inhuman ....... that owned the bike before you is at least sterile and cannot procreate?
I know a late recommendation but have you considered the PMF twin master? It might clean up your right bar. It’s a $$$$ but might clean up an area where you have a lot going on. Universal Twin Mastercylinder

Again great work.

Click to expand...

hey boss
thank you for the kind comments,
i can only hope that he or she idk is sterile, it still blows my mind what was done to it. i found some paint stripper that will get the black off of the engine casings,
but it is some strong ..... just the smell from 5 feet away makes your eyes water. and im kinda skeered of getting that .... anywhere near the bike. but it can be done
serving my country was not the funnest thing ive ever done, it was down right miserable but there were also great times with friends
and it was my humble honor to serve with the men and women i served and chewed dirt and sand with.

you know i have never seen that master but it would be perfect and fix the space issue. the problem is cant bring myself to spend that.
ive got the cost of 2 brembo masters and the cost of building the hydraulic hoses so probably less than 500.00 or so.
its definitely not the most convenient situation. but it works really well for me.
i just have the slightly off clocking issue because the bleeder is in the way a bit.
but man that twin master would make things so damn easy. its literally a plug and play deal.
ill definitely put that in the memory banks, i guess for what it is and does and how unique it is its not a horrible price
without vat plus tax not including shipping 14-1500 to me. i will definitely be doing your suggestion on the next one
i can tell you for sure that that did not exist when i started riding with one hand, my fault for not continuing to check on things,
i forget that technology changes and advances very rapidly
had i seen that when i started this journey i would have gone that route.
wha i am already thinking is i can swap the current setup onto the f800 and buy this for the Duc LOL
my biggest problem these days is i can still remember it was not that long ago when things were much more affordable.
like cars, when the hell did an 1100.00 car payments become acceptable
they can kiss my ... till blue in the face. ill keep buying older dependable serviceable vehicles.


can anyone give me a pointer to some protective film that actually goes on clear and doesnt look like .....

3M or Xpel.

the last stuff I tried was 3m , or as was supposed to be anyway, it did not seem like 3m quality stuff tho.
ill check out xpel

The 3M Sccotchguard that Tank Slapper sells in pre-cut kits was very good. I think some places mislabel stuff as 3M when it's clearly not. I ordered some sheets so I could cut pieces to protect the lower fairing near the toe pegs, similar to what comes with the Akrapovic system. It was an Amazon thing, which is always a mixed bag, but it was hot trash as to clarity. In my particular use case it doesn't matter since that portion is off angle to an observer and you never really see it.

I can't recommend The Tank Slapper enough for PPF kits.


You really want this guy. Those credit card looking squeegees with the black felt are HOT TRASH. Microfiber is still fiber, they're just smaller fibers. Nothing is worse than having to dig out a microfiber from the backside of your film.



Xpel has Ducati kits on their site, so any local installer should be able to cut pieces for you, if they do so is another thing.

i used to do vinyl and graphics so at least i have some of those LOL.. i like the tankslapper site.