Modding my V4 for a right hand only rider

1hander · Jun 18, 2022

Loony888 said:
Outstanding work resurrecting that awful mess!

Subscribed to see the progression of it.

thank you sir, ill let my boy know you said so.. he worked really hard as well.. bein a disabled vet with one good arm.. my temper gets the best of me sometimes, he keeps me in check.. and i never have to ask him to come outside, when go to work on stuff hes there. and vica versa. .

it was a mess hope i can do it just a bit better than the last guy
lol

1hander · Jun 19, 2022

so i have a hard time wrapping my head around the clutch and brake switch situation.

1. the original radial master brake switch would not (although it will mount in place) in the axial master because its mounted in a different way on the radial..
2. the switch that came on the axial masters would not work because its a normally open switch , which is to say when mounted on the axial brake master
and the lever is not pulled the switch is activated (completed circuit) and the brakes are working backwards.
3. i just got lucky and the clutch switch is mounted in a different way on the radial clutch master and it has a reversing lever on it and the switch itself is a normally closed switch, and the switch was facing in the correct orientation to mount properly in the axial brake master .. which is to say when the unmounted in the clutch/brake master the switch is closed (or lever unpulled ..circuit complete.. same as the brake master needs) so when you pull the clutch it completes the circuit.. every other bike ive ever had breaks the clutch safety circuit instead of completing it. but as we said earlier its a mitsu ecu..completely different animal than ive had as a pet.
4. lucky again that another member suggested a pressure banjo switch. which works in the same direction as the brake switch..without pressure (lever unpulled) the circuit is open.. with pressure (lever pulled) the switch activates and completes the circuit.

any one who says theres no such thing as luck. well i plain ole lucked out on this one. and with a little sleep i discovered that i can get a radial clutch switch from brembo that is the right configuration(that i can mod to work) on ebay for 44.00 or a clutch switch from 848 1098 1198 (any bike that uses radial clutch master) will work as well from ebay for 47.00 as well as of course a used v4 clutch switch for about 49.00 sometimes i make thins more complicated than they need to be

1hander · Jun 19, 2022

does anyone know of a reduced effort lever that may have been made for the goldline psc16 brake masters or for the psc13 clutch master, i doubt it but i thought it worth asking.i would really like a bit less clutch lever effort nut if i can get it, my hand will eventually get stronger and not notice the clutch effort

1hander · Jun 19, 2022

once again my confusion gets the better of me, it turns out.. all i need is another brake switch that came on the old psc16 goldline series..PERIOD
the switch that is currently on the brake master is the one that came with the new psc16 master, and none of the old radial switches are usable on these psc series masters...or a pressure banjo will work fine. ,,dammet

the confusion was because the radial master has the activation lever behind the fulcrum point instead or in front of it like the psc masters. so it switches in the opposite direction of needed
and the radial brake masters switch in the right direction but they do not mount into the psc16 master because the radial brake master is a mirror image of what it should be.
now im done with this fiasco..

Vbreeze · Jun 20, 2022

Fascinating mods. I'm glued. Way to go.
I can't believe the previous owner didn't paint the chain too. If you're going full stealth mode...

1hander said:
at this point it was fully assembled and i let my son test ride and he decided his first sport bike would not be a v4 or a liter bike smart boy
since once i started to mod no one else would be able to ride it.. everthing went well and we parked it for a week as i tried to situate where the masters would fit.
and i ordered two goldline brake masters ,, but discovered that the left hand control switches which i move to the right, was way to bulky..

i ordered a jetprime switch set and have it mounted on the right side upside down, instead of rewiring the jetprime, i switch the left and right blinkers at the connections so the arrows on the switch are pointing in the right direction. and mount the start control box on the left upside down,,

theres not enough on a standard clipon so i have a piece of stainless tubing 24 inch longf in place of the bar. i am using aftermarket clipons as well, because i need to mount a larger bar and the aftermarket clipon gives me alot more flexibility ..

with the longer bar, i need to run it out about 2 inches further to give me a little more leverage so i can steer at highspeeds easier and switch directions easier.

after getting the jetprime switch situated, and the master cylinders situated which required at least 50 times of install and remove. i decided the housing for the drive by wire throttle was too damn bulky and then i ordered a jet prime E wire. which gave me more room for adjustment. i mounted the ewire under the front fairing on the right side, i nestles in nicely and i ziptied it in place so it does not move around or ar rattle, i had to dremel a small pocket on the right side cover behind the headlights to route the ewire cable through.

in the end it all worked out and all i need to do now is to adjust the clutch lever so it does not hit the right fairing at full right bar deflection..

once these were all well situated i had make some hydraulic lines.. i decided on goodridge 2mm professional builders hose and fittings.
once the stuff showed up we built 2 hoses for brakes and clutch very straight forward took about 2 hours and had no leaks except for a crush washer that ended up with little debris under it..

the following show that stuff... right now it sits with fairings off and i wait on damper mounts from a street fighter and an ohlins damper from a 1098s, i cant mount a damper in the original location, because the damper will hit the brake master cylinder because of its location.. no one makes a triple mounted amper setup for the v4.. there is a lateral mount kit but i did not want to spend 700.00 unnecessarily

the brake master cylinder juuusstttt clears the dash panel and front subframe. i also need to bend the end of the brake lever to bring it to within comfortable range of my right index finger. it should take very little pressure to stand this thing on its nose .

this is where i routed the wires for the e wire, i had to loosen the front subframe the ewire bundle running next the headlight wire bundle
View attachment 43279

View attachment 43280 View attachment 43281
heres the ewire housing nestled in its little spot and ziptied in place, i also later added some padding foam material that helps lock the housing in place.
View attachment 43283

another shot of the ewire bundle going under the subframe
View attachment 43282

this is where i dremeled a small notch for the ewire cable to pass through.
View attachment 43284

i pulled up the ignition switch and ran all the control wires under it and behind it
View attachment 43285

View attachment 43286 View attachment 43287

and this is my Mona Lisa
View attachment 43288

1hander · Jun 20, 2022

Vbreeze said:
Fascinating mods. I'm glued. Way to go.
I can't believe the previous owner didn't paint the chain too. If you're going full stealth mode...

thanks, it was the suggestion many years ago when i lost use of my left arm, that i buy an automatic scooter.. that made me figure out how to ride with one working arm. if it was any of you theres no doubt in my heart that you would find a way. necessity(and absolute love for something you cant live without) is the mother of invention. the first bike i modded was a buell lightning 1200cc way back when they came out.. .the gearbox was garbage and i sold it within the year.
then it was a
cbr 600
cbr 959
daytona 955i
2005 R1
and now the Duc, but the v4 is the first hydraulic clutch ive ever converted. so far i think its gonna work, but i have a backup plan if it doesnt.

a few years back i bought a lathe and mill, then converted the mill to cnc and learned cad/cam. everything i do requires custom parts that exist nowhere else in the world. so when i have to i make my own parts. like the Radio control helicopter on the table, normally the transmitter control requires two hands, i fly with right hand controlling 3 axis instead of two and a contraption that i put in my mouth to control pitch and throttle. im sure it was fun to watch by others as i tried to learn to fly RC helis that way. i crashed a lot i the beginning;; LOL

actually the chain was also painted.. its was a gooey mass of paint and chain lube...so thick that i could barely turn the rear tire by hand while it was on the rear stand. i was pretty upset with who ever did this, hell it may have been a female. idk but i doubt it..
it even had so much paint inside of the rear axle that the pitbull stand would not slide into the axle.. that was when i decided that i would not leave it the way the PO left it..

heres the money shot, click on the pic to upsize and youll get the full effect
it still has paint in the rollers and ill ruin it getting it out, ill be doing a 520 conversion with a new chain.

Vbreeze · Jun 20, 2022

Obviously it was an assassin who needed it black for just that one night.

1hander · Jun 20, 2022

you know, i had not considered that. it had to have been PVT Nguyen, when i was at basic training in 92...when asked why we joined the military and his trn came around...he told the DI he joined the military to gain experience and when he got out he was going to be an assassin when he went back to vietnam.. true story LOL..
our section had to guard that guy every night...he was not very popular with some of the other trainees.

1hander · Jun 21, 2022

heres some shots of the lines we made up.. i was going to use sniper 2 micro bore but as well as deciding it would to small a bore for the volume the clutch master needed, i decided on goodridge 600 series -3 professional builders hose, it comes in 12 and 25 foot sections for 80 to 140.00 bucks respectively, it also comes plain, coated clear and coated black (600-03BK-12 ) also i used the professional builders fittings which are reusable the only thing needed to reuse is a new olive
i went with black since thats what came on the bike.

i did contemplate if this hose would be strong enough for use in abs, after a bit of research, i decided that the abs system on a motorcycle is not capable of producing enough pressure to blow one of these hoses.. 600 series hose advertised at working pressure 4205psi psi and a bursting pressure of 12618psi. with a temp resistance of -94F to 500F..

if you want to roll your own for whatever reason.
black -3 pro builders hose - 600-03BK-12
45deg banjo 3/8 P5094-03CH
straight banjo 3/8 P5092-03CH
20 deg banjo 3/8 P5093-03CH
90deg banjo 3/8 P5099-03CH

goodridge has HP high pressure hose but it starts at -4. .too big for a bike.
you will need a vise, good pair of side cutters, a couple of wrenches, brass hammer, and an awl ... do not but it with a cut toff wheel it only makes a mess. the only problem i had was figuring out how much of the black outer layer to trim away. the nut does not want to slide over the black stuff so it has to be trimmed away 8mm seemed to be about right. but igot it wrong every time and i could not find directions on how much to trim so that the black covering would not be toofar back from the nut once it was tightened.

but it was all pretty straight forward, the same as any other ptfe hose kit that uses an olive as a compressionfitting.

the one in the middle is the straight fitting and theres just enough clearance behind it that it does not hit the body of the abs pump motor

this is the 45 degree one. you can see where i cut too much of the outer coating away.

heres the 90deg fitting, you can see why i had to use a 90, at full left bar, the fitting and hose sweep over the dash panel, this way there is no contact.
view is facing the bike from the front looking down through the windscreen

im not sure if i put this one up earlier, the top one is the brake lever, the lever on setting 1 was still just a bit too much pf a reach for my liking and when compressed the bend in the top lever would hit on the reservoir mount to the clutch master.. sooooo we put the lever in the press.. and slowwwwwwwllyyyy added presseure to the break away slot and bent it back to where i could comfortably get the first joint of my index finger on it. and now i can move it up to setting 3 and 4 without the top lever hitting the lower clutch master

1hander · Jun 22, 2022

for anyone interested, the pazzo levers are for a 2000 ducati 996, it uses hydraulic masters on both brake and clutch, since the levers are mirror images. i was able disassemble and flip one of them, this kept me from having to buy 2 complete sets of a hydraulic brake and cable clutch from earlier ducs.

Pazzo calls them D80, and they are what i have always used along with brembo goldline PSC16 masters. i would like to have used a PSC13 for the clutch but they do not make a 13mm master for brakes, only for clutches which i cannot flip over because the oil feed line will be on the bottom and it will pull air.

i found new ones really cheap and will be buying 6 to 8 of them for future conversions. as well as spares of the cable clutch lever and perch for the 2005 R1 cable style. in case i do a manually operated hydraulic setup at some point . or if a master goes out on the v4.. rebuild kits can be hard to find but ill buy a few of those if i can find em.
Rick

1hander · Jun 25, 2022

got in some parts but im still waiting for v4 ducting and streetfight damper mount parts from ducatiomaha and 1098s damper parts from crosscountryducati.. all parts had to be ordered from ducati so probly another 2 weeks.
a used ohlins damper from a 1098s and the damper anchor from a v4 streetfighter. i had the damper rebuilt , it has some5 scratches but im not worried about that

i got in the LED turn signals, i felt this bike should have come with sequential turns.. so i decided to do it myself.. they are just led strips from ebay .. for the rears i used ones that had the blinker built into them and have a round cable..
the fronts are a constant on and rely on the bikes blinker to flash, and have a flat ribbon so it would fit better. i wanted to see if using both types would effect the flashing rate or just not work..but it worked out fine. i cut the connectors off the mirrors since ill be putting some rizomas on it.. the plastic on the factory mirrors looks like chit.
the strips are double sided taped onto the top of the rear brake light and onto the top of the headlights, the panels sandwich them in place.
one of these days i will electrocute myself LOL.. should be interesting though.

this is where the tail light slides in on the very center top..i had to make two small slots with a dremel to slide the lines through, theres no other way to get them through.

i had to loosen the tail under cover to help get the cable in there, then i loctited and put the two side bolts to the lower cover back in ,

here you can see the strips, and the 2 cables, they need to be pushed to the side so the hatch cover can slide back in there. once the tail cover is on, you cannot see the strips except maybe just that leading edge. same for the headlights
you can see that i had cut open the tail lights to try to install leds inside but theres just no room so i epoxied the lens back on and theres no way in hell im opening the headlights.

ill put up a pic of the fronts, i only got one side done.

1hander · Jun 26, 2022

I got a brembo brake switch as well as a pressure switch ..but didnt feel like bleeding the line again so i just used the switch.

1hander · Jul 2, 2022

i go tthe parts in for the damper mount, but the original 1098 clamp will not work.. so i need either a flat or angled clamp to hold the damper in the layed down instead of upright position.
the angled one would be better but maybe one of you guys has a broken or wrecked damper i can buy a clamp from.

heres the slighly angled mount

and the flat mount version

1hander · Jul 2, 2022

i was looking at the the way i wanted to mount the damper, just like the streetfighter.. but something really disturbs me. after looking at the sweep of the bar where the damper rods bracket would be mounted to the top triple. from what i can see there only like a total of like 3/8 inch (if that) of total damper piston travel from lock to lock. i mean thats completely useless. i wont even bother drilling holes in the upper triple clamp for that .. as ...... money wise as it would be id be better off going with the lateral mount kit. can anyone else verify lack of travel on the streetfighter damper rod from lock to lock or maybe measure it by marking the piston rod with a dry erase marker, then measure it. maybe theres something else with the geometry of the v4 steering head stuff that is causing the lack of useful travel from my damper

1hander · Jul 3, 2022

i thought i would try to see if a scotts damper (which is what i prefer personally) would work in this application. i will need to make a custom mount but i think i can handle it.
if i go this route it means i wasted my money on the ohlins damper (and the rebuild) and other parts i bought.. if so then thats just the way it goes, alot of times i do waste money because of the situation and even though i try my damndest to think and plan ahead as far as i can to avoid wasting money, sometimes theres nothing ithat can be done, and the plan i thought would work simply does not pan out and i ending up going in a completely different direction than planned...c'est la vie
alot of times when im trying to find a way to adapt things so i can use them, i dont have a plan at all, i just have to kinda pick a direction. start working the problem/problems...and just let the situation evolve
so i took some pics and it looks like by the footprint, which is taken from a photo and scotts dimensions, the pics was scaled in fusion 360 so the dimensions should be +- .025 and for the purpose of just checking work or no work it should be more than adequate.

it looks like the stock arm will just reach the streetfighter damper mount i ordered. i may end up having to machine a longer arm, but i dont think that will be a problem. the streetfighters damper anchor is pretty tall and i will most likely face it down to keep the height of the TO BE MACHINED mount to a minimum. cutting it down will also increase its rigidity and cut down on flex during those ugly situations when the damper is working.
heres a shot with top triple with an outline of the scotts damper overlapping the triple and the streetfighter damper anchor.

whatta you guys and gals of course think of this option.

topolino · Jul 7, 2022

Nice work ridding your bike of all that disgusting black paint. What would possess someone to spray all those components (1) in situ and (2) with little or no masking. Totally moronic!! Anyway it looks considerably better than when you started.

MaverickiB · Jul 7, 2022

1hander said:
i thought i would try to see if a scotts damper (which is what i prefer personally) would work in this application. i will need to make a custom mount but i think i can handle it.
if i go this route it means i wasted my money on the ohlins damper (and the rebuild) and other parts i bought.. if so then thats just the way it goes, alot of times i do waste money because of the situation and even though i try my damndest to think and plan ahead as far as i can to avoid wasting money, sometimes theres nothing ithat can be done, and the plan i thought would work simply does not pan out and i ending up going in a completely different direction than planned...c'est la vie
alot of times when im trying to find a way to adapt things so i can use them, i dont have a plan at all, i just have to kinda pick a direction. start working the problem/problems...and just let the situation evolve
so i took some pics and it looks like by the footprint, which is taken from a photo and scotts dimensions, the pics was scaled in fusion 360 so the dimensions should be +- .025 and for the purpose of just checking work or no work it should be more than adequate.

it looks like the stock arm will just reach the streetfighter damper mount i ordered. i may end up having to machine a longer arm, but i dont think that will be a problem. the streetfighters damper anchor is pretty tall and i will most likely face it down to keep the height of the TO BE MACHINED mount to a minimum. cutting it down will also increase its rigidity and cut down on flex during those ugly situations when the damper is working.
heres a shot with top triple with an outline of the scotts damper overlapping the triple and the streetfighter damper anchor.
View attachment 43540
whatta you guys and gals of course think of this option.
View attachment 43541

I haven't been able to go through this whole threat in depth (it's a pain catching up on mobile) but have you considered a side-mounted damper? Clamps around the left fork tube and bolts up to where a cheap unnecessary coolant hose bracket attaches on the middle of the frame. Really cleans up the triple area and makes on the fly adjustments easier, but also requires removal of the (also unnecessary) secondary coolant overflow tank.

1hander · Jul 7, 2022

Yes sir I saw that .. I wanted to not spend money unnecessarily. The reason I'm considering the Scott's damper. Is because I kept and found the Scott's damper I had mounted on the 05 r1 .. so the only expense would be a scrap piece of aluminum and work on my part..

The side mount is a pretty nice option but I'm looking at 700-800 by the time the kit and the damper get to me . I know these things are expensive. And that's just the way it is. I guess im old enough thst im still hanging on to my save money when i can ways .

The biggest reason i would go with the side mount if i did would be because im not crazy about drilling holes in my upper triple and because as you stated it keeps the upper triple clean and I like that .

topolino said:
Nice work ridding your bike of all that disgusting black paint. What would possess someone to spray all those components (1) in situ and (2) with little or no masking. Totally moronic!! Anyway it looks considerably better than when you started.

I appreciate that..it blew my mind that someone could do that. It's got some areas thst the paint will not come off of and I didn't want to do anymore damage soni left it. It's moving forward slowly though

1hander · Jul 11, 2022

did some work today on what could be the mount for the scotts damper, if i decide to go that route, i just like to have options. the shape was kinda weird cuz it turns out the triple is not any kind of symmetric when it comes to the facets on the surface of it in the center, from here i can adjust the total height, the depth of the front and rear cutouts, and radiuses of them, the total sweep cutout and the sizes of the mounting bolt holes. i will do some radiusing of the edges, just enough to remove the sharp edges, the final shape may change just a bit for aesthetic reasons but thats pretty much 98 percent what it will look like.

the total height of the mount will depend on how much i can or if i decide to trim down the center anchor point i got from the streetfighter, seen at the bottom and center of this pic. it can be machined down quite a bit,

here you can see the critical alignment of the anchor point for the arm.

1hander · Jul 11, 2022

my son and i were able to get the cox protectors in.. took about 30 minutes. since i already had the skins off for other stuff.
they fit perfectly and theres no rattling or looseness of any kind, they are expensive by im glad i spent the money

we decided to only pull the plastic housing away from the coolers, and removed the two nuts at the oil cooler, once the 2 nuts were loose i was able to pull up on the oil coolr to get it out of the lower grommet hole it sits in, so the plastic housing could swing forward. i did remove the coolant hoses and drain the fluid since i was replacing with distilled water and water wetter. after we fished the grills in, he helped put the housing back in place and hen pull up on the oil cooler again to get the housing to sit right on the oil cooler.. all the brackets that hold fans and coolers were loosened to get the entire cooling assembly loose and free...then I pulled up on the radiator as he tightened the 2 nuts that hold the radiator and oil cooler to the housing. this proved to really get the radiator higher in the black housing...which in turn brought all the other brackets just a bit higher.. he pulled up o the entire assembly as i tightened down all the brackets.. now the brackets are centered on bother sides nd sitting more straight up so the mid fairings wont have that weird pressure pulling down on them.. so it was a matter of holding things up then tightening.. then i put the hoses back on and we refilled

u can see the anchor screw and bushing .. the screw head is centered now

im looking for a place that does dry ice blasting to remove the remainder of the pant on the engine casing etc etc .. thart should remove the paint ansd not damage the original coating but well see i can find a place that doers it.

Modding my V4 for a right hand only rider

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