Yah turn up with new tyres don’t bother with your suspension and fool up the new tyres really quickly …. Still you’ll have spare time for the reach sround!
New V2; what to buy to be track ready
- Thread starter TakoDivah
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This is gold
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That's the OBD connector, which the DDA port plugs into.
So can I plug something into it and get telemetry data?
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Yes. Whatever device will just read available channels on the bike's CANbus.
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Aim Solo DL2 can do that or Ducati's native device. To get suspension travel you need pot sensors and additional bit of kit. Search the forum, you will find a thread about it
Badass, thanks for this.
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I'm 165, no gear, and decent pace (MotoAmerica), and I think the stock suspension is pretty good. Assuming your weight is within its range, it's probably fine for you as it is. I'm not going to upgrade mine, at least for a few months of club racing. How much do you weigh? If you're much heavier, you'll likely need a stiffer rear spring. If you're around that, you should be ok.
FYI: I was advised by a top USA pro race team on the V2 to set sag unusually high for a race / track bike: 30-35mm. I've done that, not changed any springs, and the bike felt pretty amazing, the first weekend I was on track. I'd be happy to share my set up, if you want to message me. But if you have someone local, I'd at least tell them this range. That's my advice anyway.
If you can get the fuel mapping and throttle remapped, I'd do that. Either with a turning program, like Woolich, which I used, and it came out great, or one of the "out of the box" tunes you can get here on the forum. The OEM maps are awful; designed for emissions and noise and other tomfoolery. Getting it smoothed out is critical to making this bike ride well -- street, track, gutter, whatever.
Those are the only things I would call, "requirements." Here's some other notes and ideas.
The bike is relatively heavy (well, it could be lighter, anyway). If you can get an exhaust to drop some weight, do that. But they are egregiously expensive for these bikes. LW lithium battery is the best way to drop a 6-8 fast, and relatively cheap, pounds.
OEM tires are bitchin. Stick with them, unless you have some compelling reason not to.
I thought the OEM rear sets and clip ons were awesome. But it's all about fit, and, to a lesser extent, preference and riding style. Have someone who knows what they're doing measure you out and see if you fit well. Or just think it through, and do it yourself. I'm 5'9", and it fit great.
Brakes are very good, but front can be a bit spongy, but that's from a racer's perspective. It stops hard, but doesn't have the best feel. If it's a street mix bike, you can put on an RCS 19, and it will help that. But if I'd probably leave it OEM, if I wasn't racing.
This bike rules and is designed to perform on a track. Half of the joy, and ease, of buying it is to not have to change a bunch of sh*t. Get your suspension sorted, and go ride the piss out of it.
FYI: I was advised by a top USA pro race team on the V2 to set sag unusually high for a race / track bike: 30-35mm. I've done that, not changed any springs, and the bike felt pretty amazing, the first weekend I was on track. I'd be happy to share my set up, if you want to message me. But if you have someone local, I'd at least tell them this range. That's my advice anyway.
If you can get the fuel mapping and throttle remapped, I'd do that. Either with a turning program, like Woolich, which I used, and it came out great, or one of the "out of the box" tunes you can get here on the forum. The OEM maps are awful; designed for emissions and noise and other tomfoolery. Getting it smoothed out is critical to making this bike ride well -- street, track, gutter, whatever.
Those are the only things I would call, "requirements." Here's some other notes and ideas.
The bike is relatively heavy (well, it could be lighter, anyway). If you can get an exhaust to drop some weight, do that. But they are egregiously expensive for these bikes. LW lithium battery is the best way to drop a 6-8 fast, and relatively cheap, pounds.
OEM tires are bitchin. Stick with them, unless you have some compelling reason not to.
I thought the OEM rear sets and clip ons were awesome. But it's all about fit, and, to a lesser extent, preference and riding style. Have someone who knows what they're doing measure you out and see if you fit well. Or just think it through, and do it yourself. I'm 5'9", and it fit great.
Brakes are very good, but front can be a bit spongy, but that's from a racer's perspective. It stops hard, but doesn't have the best feel. If it's a street mix bike, you can put on an RCS 19, and it will help that. But if I'd probably leave it OEM, if I wasn't racing.
This bike rules and is designed to perform on a track. Half of the joy, and ease, of buying it is to not have to change a bunch of sh*t. Get your suspension sorted, and go ride the piss out of it.
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Agreed.
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You should have said so, lol. So you have an after market suspension, and it's been tuned?
Suspension is stock, but yeah it’s been tuned
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Ah, "can," sorry. I missed that.
Well, you're half way there, with the tune.
At 100kg, you'll need much heavier springs. Find a local guy and have him recommend which ones.
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Try Endless RBF650. Got rid of my stock V4 brake setup’s sponginess
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