oil leak from the clutch pushrod hole (1199 base 2012)

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tyguidry said:
Im a few months late, but if you're still in a tight spot I can generate a CAD drawing of the machining mods I personally made which solved the issue. Let me know.
Click to expand...

Hey sir I’m in the same boat with a pushrod leak. Have already put the Oberon slave on that took care of the brake fluid leak.

any help at all would be greatly appreciated sir.


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tyguidry said:
Im a few months late, but if you're still in a tight spot I can generate a CAD drawing of the machining mods I personally made which solved the issue. Let me know.
Click to expand...

Bump


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SirJAG said:
Hey sir I’m in the same boat with a pushrod leak. Have already put the Oberon slave on that took care of the brake fluid leak.

any help at all would be greatly appreciated sir.


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Click to expand...
Hey man, I have been digging and digging looking for the drawing I made of specifically where I turned the grooves (i did 2). All ive been able to find are the drawings of the depths of features: case > factory o-ring & case > case splits.

The bike is put away for the winter. its hard to say if/when id have time to uncover the bike, pull the fairing, slave and the rod to get exact numbers. If you want, I can look at my depth drawings and give you an approximate (but not exact) position for both grooves that should rest in a place where they wont encounter the case split during normal operation and should solve your issue.

Unfortunately, I don't remember what size o-rings i used. I know they were quite hard, probably durometer 70. I had a hell of a time getting them onto the shaft. And they weren't too keen on going in the hole. It shouldnt be hard to figure what size you need when you consider the diameter of the hole, though.

Groove depth is going to be tricky. I did quite a bit of research into this issue and some of the scattered threads of guys doing this. You need to be sure you aren't so shallow that the o-ring is too big around to go in, but also you can't be so deep that the rod strength is compromised. Apparently some guys turned too deep and the rod bent when pressure was applied.

This isn't a dremel job. If you don't have a solid lathe with good fixturing, you should probably have a job-shop do the machine work for you. I will say i was surprised at how hard the rod was and with it being not very thick, it was prone to deflection.

let me know if my best guess for location is good enough for you and ill get on working up a drawing for you.
 
Sir! Thanks for getting back to me. Yes Ill take whatever you can spare. I have another OEM rod on the way that I can test with. Again, Ill take whever you can supply Sir!

JAG

tyguidry said:
Hey man, I have been digging and digging looking for the drawing I made of specifically where I turned the grooves (i did 2). All ive been able to find are the drawings of the depths of features: case > factory o-ring & case > case splits.

The bike is put away for the winter. its hard to say if/when id have time to uncover the bike, pull the fairing, slave and the rod to get exact numbers. If you want, I can look at my depth drawings and give you an approximate (but not exact) position for both grooves that should rest in a place where they wont encounter the case split during normal operation and should solve your issue.

Unfortunately, I don't remember what size o-rings i used. I know they were quite hard, probably durometer 70. I had a hell of a time getting them onto the shaft. And they weren't too keen on going in the hole. It shouldnt be hard to figure what size you need when you consider the diameter of the hole, though.

Groove depth is going to be tricky. I did quite a bit of research into this issue and some of the scattered threads of guys doing this. You need to be sure you aren't so shallow that the o-ring is too big around to go in, but also you can't be so deep that the rod strength is compromised. Apparently some guys turned too deep and the rod bent when pressure was applied.

let me know if my best guess for location is good enough for you and ill get on working up a drawing for you.
Click to expand...
 
Check this out Tyguidry,
www.ebay.com

Ducati 2014 Multistrada 1200 S Clutch Push Rod | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Ducati 2014 Multistrada 1200 S Clutch Push Rod at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com

i bet it should look something like this huh?

JAG


tyguidry said:
Hey man, I have been digging and digging looking for the drawing I made of specifically where I turned the grooves (i did 2). All ive been able to find are the drawings of the depths of features: case > factory o-ring & case > case splits.

The bike is put away for the winter. its hard to say if/when id have time to uncover the bike, pull the fairing, slave and the rod to get exact numbers. If you want, I can look at my depth drawings and give you an approximate (but not exact) position for both grooves that should rest in a place where they wont encounter the case split during normal operation and should solve your issue.

Unfortunately, I don't remember what size o-rings i used. I know they were quite hard, probably durometer 70. I had a hell of a time getting them onto the shaft. And they weren't too keen on going in the hole. It shouldnt be hard to figure what size you need when you consider the diameter of the hole, though.

Groove depth is going to be tricky. I did quite a bit of research into this issue and some of the scattered threads of guys doing this. You need to be sure you aren't so shallow that the o-ring is too big around to go in, but also you can't be so deep that the rod strength is compromised. Apparently some guys turned too deep and the rod bent when pressure was applied.

This isn't a dremel job. If you don't have a solid lathe with good fixturing, you should probably have a job-shop do the machine work for you. I will say i was surprised at how hard the rod was and with it being not very thick, it was prone to deflection.

let me know if my best guess for location is good enough for you and ill get on working up a drawing for you.
Click to expand...
 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Anyone ever able to get the dimensions for the pushrod?
My 1199 is currently in the shop, with mechanic determined to keep from cracking the case.
Please help! =)
 
I put some of that around the pushrod penetration hole under the slave and on the chain-guard metal plate both sides

let it sit up overnight and it hasn’t leaked a drop since.

I purchased another pushrod and hadn’t found a buddy with a CNC machine to groove it for O-rings. I’m planning on getting that done before my 30,000 mile service at the end of the year


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Get close to where mine are …you want to make sure that both O-rings have something to seal against


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Hate to bring this up again, but anyone got any pics where they have machines the 2 orings onto the existing rod ?
 
I'm sorry Handi, I did not get my push rod cut, the liquid gasket did the trick.
 

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