Sheared Suspension Linkage Rod

Sleekstyle said:
Mine is point @ the F not P. may I ask why you did that ?
Click to expand...

I'm assuming you havent read any of the other 9 threads about switching it from F to P. "F" for Flat, is supposed to be designated for track use, since it provides a more linear compression rate. However, F can provide quite the stiff ride. "P" for progressive, is supposed to be designated for street use and if you have a passenger. The compression rate "progressively" gets harder as the shock compresses further. The "P" setting is a little bit smoother for street use and per the manual is for riding with a passenger. I prefer P for everyday riding and canyon riding.
 
Nice driving. Just wanted to add, that since you had this replaced, my guess is that it is workmanship. Just too much of a coincidence. Somebody works on a part, then a unique catastophic failure of that same part? You never know, but common sense tells me it is related to the install. Still scary as .....

Though you could leave it and paint it purple, get some little fuzzy balls haning from it and maybe some glittery flames, neon lights on the bottom, and modify the horn to play La Cucaracha.
 
Denver Rick said:
Nice driving. Just wanted to add, that since you had this replaced, my guess is that it is workmanship. Just too much of a coincidence. Somebody works on a part, then a unique catastophic failure of that same part? You never know, but common sense tells me it is related to the install. Still scary as .....

Though you could leave it and paint it purple, get some little fuzzy balls haning from it and maybe some glittery flames, neon lights on the bottom, and modify the horn to play La Cucaracha.
Click to expand...

I agree man. Too coincidental. I couldn't stop laughing at your recommendation! La Cucaracha! Hahaha!
 
Wow, I'm not going to lie. When I adjusted mine from F to P then back to F, the link felt super cheap. Should be billet or forged, not cast... I'd buy a fixed length one in a heart beat.
 
Theefiveoh said:
I'm assuming you havent read any of the other 9 threads about switching it from F to P. "F" for Flat, is supposed to be designated for track use, since it provides a more linear compression rate. However, F can provide quite the stiff ride. "P" for progressive, is supposed to be designated for street use and if you have a passenger. The compression rate "progressively" gets harder as the shock compresses further. The "P" setting is a little bit smoother for street use and per the manual is for riding with a passenger. I prefer P for everyday riding and canyon riding.
Click to expand...

Just did bro, one thread had excellent in depth info on it sorry for the noob question
 
Bravo for keeping it upright in a turn. I think I'll wait for a billet part to come out before I switch to P!
 
How unfortunate. Glad you are ok.

In looking at this, it would appear that the exhaust design (which many have complained about) may have actually saved your life. It seems to have prevented the complete collapse of the rear end into the tail section which would have locked the rear tire and certainly prevented the bottom of the bike from hitting the ground (during a turn no less).

A high quality spherical rod link would probably be a good upgrade from stock. Also, a non-adjustable replacement component, meant for P or for F position would eliminate the apparent weak point in this design.

Scarey stuff here guys!
 
Better than Speis!

This is the worst failure I've seen yet! Couldn't imagine it happening prior to seeing this.

At least you have skills - Not even Spies was able to keep it rubber side down when his suspension failed at Laguna! ;)
 
DRSapp said:
This is the worst failure I've seen yet! Couldn't imagine it happening prior to seeing this.

At least you have skills - Not even Spies was able to keep it rubber side down when his suspension failed at Laguna! ;)
Click to expand...

haha, and people say the suspension design the flawed, haha
 
So here's the latest. My bike was towed back to my original dealer who has done all of the work on my bike. Since they hadn't taken it apart, they were hesitant to say what may have caused the incident. I pointed out the missing washers and showed them in comparison to another bike on the show room floor. I explained how the lack of these washers could cause unnecessary movement, vibrations and stress on the rod and was likely very influential in the rod shearing off at the weakest point.

The young fella at first tried to tell me the washers may have fallen off somehow. I explained how that is near impossible. He also tried to say another dealer may have taken them off even though no other dealer has touched my bike. So you can see I started to get the run around and them pointing fingers everywhere else but in.

As I increasingly became more frustrated and angry because of this, he began to apologize and said they will fix everything on the bike. I spoke with the owner who also was very apologetic and ensured the bike would be completely repaired. He said they will do a full "investigation" into the matter and submit the report to Ducati for review. We both wondered if it was a case of a weak/faulty part in conjunction with a mechanics big mistake of leaving out those washers. We spoke of recall options for the rod in case this is an issue. I guess we will all see as time progresses with this.

In the meantime make sure you check your linkage rods frequently. Some members have thrown out the idea of keeping the suspension set to "F" as the smallest and weakest points of the rod are reinforced my the other half of the rod that is threaded over those portions. It seems like the idea of 2 solid one piece suspension linkage rods will be the way to go to ensure this doesn't happen again. One rod P length and one F length.
 
efna said:
How unfortunate. Glad you are ok.

In looking at this, it would appear that the exhaust design (which many have complained about) may have actually saved your life. It seems to have prevented the complete collapse of the rear end into the tail section which would have locked the rear tire and certainly prevented the bottom of the bike from hitting the ground (during a turn no less)...
Click to expand...

Actually the part that prevented the full collapse of the suspension was the part that the linkage rod bolts on to near the rear shock. You can see it here in this picture. This was the only point that was preventing the swingarm from collapsing into the rear header. You can see the scuff marks and gouge on the swingarm where they collided and rested.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0049.jpg
    IMG_0049.jpg
    85 KB
Thanks for keeping us updated.

I was initially thinking that the rod needs to be engineered a little better.. But if the failure was due to improper installation, then no amount of engineering could account for that.
ie. If rod was made stronger, then something else would have broken.

Sounds very similar to the BMWS1kRR issue. Incorrect torquing of the bolts caused engines to go BOOM!!!

Theefiveoh said:
So here's the latest. My bike was towed back to my original dealer who has done all of the work on my bike. Since they hadn't taken it apart, they were hesitant to say what may have caused the incident. I pointed out the missing washers and showed them in comparison to another bike on the show room floor. I explained how the lack of these washers could cause unnecessary movement, vibrations and stress on the rod and was likely very influential in the rod shearing off at the weakest point.

The young fella at first tried to tell me the washers may have fallen off somehow. I explained how that is near impossible. He also tried to say another dealer may have taken them off even though no other dealer has touched my bike. So you can see I started to get the run around and them pointing fingers everywhere else but in.

As I increasingly became more frustrated and angry because of this, he began to apologize and said they will fix everything on the bike. I spoke with the owner who also was very apologetic and ensured the bike would be completely repaired. He said they will do a full "investigation" into the matter and submit the report to Ducati for review. We both wondered if it was a case of a weak/faulty part in conjunction with a mechanics big mistake of leaving out those washers. We spoke of recall options for the rod in case this is an issue. I guess we will all see as time progresses with this.

In the meantime make sure you check your linkage rods frequently. Some members have thrown out the idea of keeping the suspension set to "F" as the smallest and weakest points of the rod are reinforced my the other half of the rod that is threaded over those portions. It seems like the idea of 2 solid one piece suspension linkage rods will be the way to go to ensure this doesn't happen again. One rod P length and one F length.
Click to expand...
 
Theefiveoh said:
The young fella at first tried to tell me the washers may have fallen off somehow. I explained how that is near impossible. He also tried to say another dealer may have taken them off even though no other dealer has touched my bike. So you can see I started to get the run around and them pointing fingers everywhere else but in.
Click to expand...

Omg, that's the dealer lubing your ....... for insertion, wow. Good thing you got pictures.
 
Theefiveoh said:
Actually the part that prevented the full collapse of the suspension was the part that the linkage rod bolts on to near the rear shock. You can see it here in this picture. This was the only point that was preventing the swingarm from collapsing into the rear header. You can see the scuff marks and gouge on the swingarm where they collided and rested.
Click to expand...

Maybe it was an intentional design element. Ducati engineering some redundancy into the bike. The idea being that if the suspension did collapse for whatever reason... ummm.. errr... the linkage push rod snapping.... then the link would stop hard against the swing arm and allow the rider to come to a safe stop :rolleyes:
 
littlejohn said:
Maybe it was an intentional design element. Ducati engineering some redundancy into the bike. The idea being that if the suspension did collapse for whatever reason... ummm.. errr... the linkage push rod snapping.... then the link would stop hard against the swing arm and allow the rider to come to a safe stop :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Ducati - "Ummm yeah, uhh we adesigned it to a do that, yeah, that wasa our idea, man were soma smart afellas"!
 
I'm wondering if the linkage had gas porosity. Gas porosity is a major problem for casting. I've seen this problem before in cast products from some of the vendors we use at work. The only was to find out is by X-ray and look for air bubbles. Hopefully Ducati performs first article inspection which includes xray on each lot. Im pretty sure they don't X-ray 100 percent all all parts casted.
 
Theefiveoh said:
Actually the part that prevented the full collapse of the suspension was the part that the linkage rod bolts on to near the rear shock. You can see it here in this picture. This was the only point that was preventing the swingarm from collapsing into the rear header. You can see the scuff marks and gouge on the swingarm where they collided and rested.
Click to expand...

After looking at your picture and comparing it to the replacement parts manual and various pictures on the internet I am pretty shure that they attached the reaction rod (part 14) in a wrong way after switching it from F to P.
Not only are the waschers missing but the short part of the rod with the thread had to be bolted on to the swingarm and the long part of the reaction rod has to be attached to the rear shock.

On all the pictures I found, it is exactly that way so maybe you have a little more then just washers to talk about with your dealer...

Thank you very much for sharing this info with us and I am very glad that nothing happened to you!!!


http://www.asphaltandrubber.com/wp-...k/ducati-1199-panigale-supersport-trim-23.jpg

Ducati 1199 Panigale  naked - News - ccGALLERY
 

Attachments

  • Swingarm.jpg
    Swingarm.jpg
    85.4 KB
Take another look at the actual bikes...all Pani's have it in this orientation. The diagram is reversed and if the arm was assembled as in the diagram; then the set scew would not be accessible



mike said:
After looking at your picture and comparing it to the replacement parts manual and various pictures on the internet I am pretty shure that they attached the reaction rod (part 14) in a wrong way after switching it from F to P.
Not only are the waschers missing but the short part of the rod with the thread had to be bolted on to the swingarm and the long part of the reaction rod has to be attached to the rear shock.

On all the pictures I found, it is exactly that way so maybe you have a little more then just washers to talk about with your dealer...

Thank you very much for sharing this info with us and I am very glad that nothing happened to you!!!


http://www.asphaltandrubber.com/wp-...k/ducati-1199-panigale-supersport-trim-23.jpg

Ducati 1199 Panigale*naked - News - ccGALLERY
Click to expand...
 

Similar threads

B
V4 Blueprint. A primer sort of.
Replies
35
Views
1K
baggerman
B
Tlarsen28
Rear Shock Issue
Replies
9
Views
156
Tlarsen28
Tlarsen28
S
For Sale 2017 1299 base - complete part out (second thread)
Replies
7
Views
265
SirJAG
S
SuperDomestique
PTT Laguna Seca 4/27
Replies
101
Views
2K
SuperDomestique
SuperDomestique
S
  • Locked
SOLD! 2017 1299 base - COMPLETE PART OUT
Replies
36
Views
1K
SirJAG
S

Register CTA

Register on Ducati Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.

Recent Discussions

Recent Discussions