Sprocket change... Best option?

What is the best option for the sprocket change?

Mimic the 1199R with the 41 in the rear? Some dealers have suggested that the front would be the way to go.

Please advise.

Thanks.

I did the 14t front sprocket only. It's barely more aggressive than a using a 15/42t setup and it cost WAY less to do. My sprocket was $35 and I put it on myself.

No ragrets!

I went with this set up in the rear.

http://italianmotostyles.com/aem-factory-en/aem-ducati-quick-change-rear-sprocket-group-buy.html

Thanks for the replies, I'm looking for the wow factor, as in more down low torque like the old 1198. Hopefully you can steer me in the right path, also please explain the pro's and cons of each set-up.

Thanks again.

The small front sprocket (some say) may wear out your chain faster. I don't argue this point I just don't think it matters. Plus Iv'e never heard someone say that they think they wore out their chain because of a small front sprocket. Chains don't last forever anyway.

The larger rear sprocket is more costly. The sprocket alone is more $$ plus they will tell you "you may as well put on a quick change carrier". So you will. More $$ but they kind of look sweet. Then you will need a longer chain. More $$.

15/39t = .38461 to one ratio. That is the rear sprocket/wheel turns .38461 times to the front sprockets one turn. The lower the number the more mechanical advantage your motor gains and you get more torque to the ground.
15/41t = .36585
14/39t = .35897
15/42t = .35714

I have heard that with a 14/39t your speedometer will show you traveling 186mph with the third level of shift lights lit up in 6th gear. So that's the max speed of the bike geared this way. And it gets there FAST! I've heard.

bikenamenumber said:

The small front sprocket (some say) may wear out your chain faster. I don't argue this point I just don't think it matters. Plus Iv'e never heard someone say that they think they wore out their chain because of a small front sprocket. Chains don't last forever anyway.

The larger rear sprocket is more costly. The sprocket alone is more $$ plus they will tell you "you may as well put on a quick change carrier". So you will. More $$ but they kind of look sweet. Then you will need a longer chain. More $$.

15/39t = .38461 to one ratio. That is the rear sprocket/wheel turns .38461 times to the front sprockets one turn. The lower the number the more mechanical advantage your motor gains and you get more torque to the ground.
15/41t = .36585
14/39t = .35897
15/42t = .35714

I have heard that with a 14/39t your speedometer will show you traveling 186mph with the third level of shift lights lit up in 6th gear. So that's the max speed of the bike geared this way. And it gets there FAST! I've heard.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the summary, appreciate it greatly! I'm leaning towards the 14/39 set-up based on the numbers you provided, which looks better then the 15/41 I originally thought I want to go with. How's the gearing with both options?

He's already given you the gearing outcomes.

In case you're wondering.
There's no speedometer error induced by changing sprockets.
The speedometer receives it's signal from the rear wheel sensor.
The only variation you will get, is from deliberately fitting a different tyre from stock standard, or normal tyre wear.

Going to a 14 tooth front sprocket is the cheapest solution.
Some may argue the nastiest as well.

It's ultimately better to go with a bigger sprocket on the rear in combination with a longer chain.
I would suggest that's why DUCATI is providing an incentive for us to go in that direction

If it's a genuine matter of economics for you.
The best solution is to change gearing through the rear sprocket and chain when the original set wears out, and retain a 15 tooth sprocket setup at the front.
If your rear drive is well maintained and the bike is ridden normally, it's feasible to get quite good life out of the components.
At about half life, it may well be possible to only need to change the front sprocket due to wear and tear(at that time you may like to try a 14 tooth front sprocket), and retain the rear sprocket and chain for the full duration of it's service life.

That way you can seriously assess the viability of a permanent change in the meantime.
Then go to town on it when the time comes to change the lot.
With a view to retaining the 15 tooth sprocket at the front.

Unless you need a genuine weight advantage keep with the steel sprocket setup.

Number one reason to avoid the 14T in front is swingarm clearance, which is pretty tight on the 1199. Number two is chain/sprocket wear. There are other more technical reasons to not go with a smaller front sprocket, which a Ducati tech explained in detail to me during the R launch, most of which went over my head (see Motorcycle Art and Science | Traction & Geometry | Sport Rider).

If what you want is insane power, hit up Ducati Seattle. One of the techs there has cracked the ECU, which in stock form is detuned. Uncorking it will give you the kind of loop-the-bike-onto-your-head power you might be looking for.

HA3AP said:

Thanks for the replies, I'm looking for the wow factor, as in more down low torque like the old 1198. Hopefully you can steer me in the right path, also please explain the pro's and cons of each set-up.

Thanks again.

Click to expand...

Aluminum sprocket with magnesium carrier. Add titanium and it does not get more wow than that. The stock weight does not include the Cush Drives.

I have fitted 14/41 for track use, the change in the bike is incredible, the dead spot in mid revs is pretty much completely gone.

Quin1199 said:

I have fitted 14/41 for track use, the change in the bike is incredible, the dead spot in mid revs is pretty much completely gone.

Click to expand...

It's never gone. There's no magic.
It's still very much present.
The reason you can't detect it, is simply because the shorter gearing hides the issue.

If you want to find a tuning issue. Change to a taller gearing setup so it's amplified.

if you're heavier, go for 42.. big dif even coming from 41

I didn't think the 42t would fit b/c of swing arm clearance

MUNDMAN said:

I didn't think the 42t would fit b/c of swing arm clearance

Click to expand...

It does... I have it..

IL MOSTRO said:

Aluminum sprocket with magnesium carrier. Add titanium and it does not get more wow than that. The stock weight does not include the Cush Drives.

Click to expand...

2/3 of a pound weight savings (near the hub, for less effect on rotating mass) for what? $600 or more?

I understand the bling factor but get a LiFePO4 battery for 3 pounds less at $179. I want a pretty final drive setup but I guess I'm too cheap and have other performance mods to make.

JeffD said:

2/3 of a pound weight savings (near the hub, for less effect on rotating mass) for what? $600 or more?



I understand the bling factor but get a LiFePO4 battery for 3 pounds less at $179. I want a pretty final drive setup but I guess I'm too cheap and have other performance mods to make.

Click to expand...

I know what you're saying but you feel the difference. Plus it's cool looking.

IL MOSTRO said:

I know what you're saying but you feel the difference. Plus it's cool looking.

Click to expand...

Oh, it's definitely cool as .... looking. I'm envious because I'm poor right now and can't afford it. I blew all my money on Bitubo suspension and CF wheels - now those you can really feel the difference

Money well spent JeffD

It is un-sprung mass that would help rear suspension.

Spoke to the dealer, they confirmed that 15/41 is the best option, and is the one I will take. Thanks for all the replies!

PS: Any software or re-map required for 41 in the rear?