It was like this before the spacer.. I think Bradp51 hit the nail on the head... The bike changes throttle response depending on whether the clutch microswitch is engaged or not. That microswitch also tells the ECU what to do w.r.t. the DQS.... So forcing the switch to be always engaged means the dqs won't function.
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Instead of being sarcastic or abrasive I am going to respond to this the best way I can. Nobody is bitching
Different people have opinions on how the bike should be and so they are changing the parameters of how it operates. Several of the members here are track only and that explains why the want no hesitation in the throttle at all.
I hope this helps. Previous generations of superbikes fixed this issue by going to a one piece throttle tube.
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Bradp51, I thought you were joking and that I should check my quick shifter fluid as wellbut you are absolutely correct!
Which idiotic ducati engineer thought it sensible to change the throttle response depending on clutch position?
So this is what I found:
1. When stopped; or when moving and with clutch fully in, the throttle response is instant.
2. When moving and clutch out or only half-way pulled in (not enough to engage microswitch) then throttle response is terrible.
For me I normally use two fingers on clutch, so I'm pulling it in enough to disengage the actual clutch but sometimes not enough to engage the micro switch... Explains why sometimes throttle response is crappy and sometimes ok (if I've pulled in the clutch far enough).
This makes it a bit of lottery as to what kind of throttle response you get when doing a quick start from stopped... If you rev the engine before the micro switch disengages as you let you the clutch you will get good response... If you let the clutch out a little too much before revving it then you get crappy throttle response and might stall the bike.
Similarly if changing gears, it depends on when/how you pull the clutch in as you blip throttle as to what sort of response you get.
For now I've moved the micro switch lever to the other side of the pin so the bike thinks the clutch lever is always out.. At least then I'll get consistent throttle response. Means I have to start the bike in neutral and turn of dqs so the bike isn't always trying to blip even with clutch in.
Next I'll try taping the microswitch on... But again won't be able to use dqs.
If I have the bike tuned (eg rapidbike or tuneboy) then I would guess this behaviour can be fixed?
View attachment 14129
hmmm, thanks, i will experiment as well.
but why would that depend on dqs even if you have dqs turned off?
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Seems like ducati use the clutch sensor to work out whether to engage quick shifter functions (like blipping the throttle)... So if it thinks the clutch is pulled in when it's not, then it won't blip the throttle and you won't get any quick-shift functionality when changing down gears.
I should also add that it would be a bit dangerous to change the sensor to read as though the clutch is pulled in.... Because then you can start the bike in gear when stopped with the clutch out... Which would cause the bike to lurch. Also I don't know if it has any interaction with the way traction control works. One might guess that the bike doesn't try to ...... rpm for traction control if the clutch is pulled in.
I suspect the only proper solution is to remap the ECU so that throttle response is constant regardless of clutch position.
I suspect the only proper solution is to remap the ECU so that throttle response is constant regardless of clutch position.
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The OP is not bitching about throttle play. She fixed that with the throttle spacer kit. She is talking about how the RBW responds at different times.
You should read the post more carefully.
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Bradp51, I thought you were joking and that I should check my quick shifter fluid as well
Which idiotic ducati engineer thought it sensible to change the throttle response depending on clutch position?
So this is what I found:
1. When stopped; or when moving and with clutch fully in, the throttle response is instant.
2. When moving and clutch out or only half-way pulled in (not enough to engage microswitch) then throttle response is terrible.
For me I normally use two fingers on clutch, so I'm pulling it in enough to disengage the actual clutch but sometimes not enough to engage the micro switch... Explains why sometimes throttle response is crappy and sometimes ok (if I've pulled in the clutch far enough).
This makes it a bit of lottery as to what kind of throttle response you get when doing a quick start from stopped... If you rev the engine before the micro switch disengages as you let you the clutch you will get good response... If you let the clutch out a little too much before revving it then you get crappy throttle response and might stall the bike.
Similarly if changing gears, it depends on when/how you pull the clutch in as you blip throttle as to what sort of response you get.
For now I've moved the micro switch lever to the other side of the pin so the bike thinks the clutch lever is always out.. At least then I'll get consistent throttle response. Means I have to start the bike in neutral and turn of dqs so the bike isn't always trying to blip even with clutch in.
Next I'll try taping the microswitch on... But again won't be able to use dqs.
If I have the bike tuned (eg rapidbike or tuneboy) then I would guess this behaviour can be fixed?
View attachment 14129
The only reason I know about this is because Wayne (Tuneboy) told me while he was working on my bike. As I recall he explained the mapping is different in neutral so as the bikes engine response sounds better when the engine is reved as people like to do. Once the bike is in gear and you are moving off the map is optimised for the load etc. Thats a simple explanation from what I remember of the conversation. I recall posting at the time when I had my dyno work done by him that what he does not know about how the ECU etc works on the 1199 is not worth knowing. I did not even know there was a micro switch on the clutch lever until he pointed it out. And I bet most on here do not know its there and what it is for.
Slowdive2, try it with the bike moving slowly... It doesn't change when stopped. Pull the lever in just enough to disengage the clutch but not enough to activate the microswitch. Vs when pulled in all the way
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Huh?
99.9% of riders will never reach the threshold of the electronics on the street. They simply aren't pushing the bike hard enough.
I would love to see someone riding so hard and fast on the street that they could honestly say the electronics were holding them back.
Eh, nevermind.
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Bwah, hahahaha.
Make sure your engine is in 195hi in sport mode.
Agreed.
The bike has no business down or below 3k RPM.
And why would anyone need to blip the throttle at idle? Unless they are just trying to make the bike sound cool at a red light.
Agreed.
I have experienced the same things on pretty much every sportbike, even my highly tuned R6 Superbike.
These bikes are simply not meant to operate way down in the RPM's like that. The fueling is off.
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i have a habit of blipping the throttle after going into first when the lights turn green and before easing the clutch... hahah, must me a subconscious thing
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