Stupid stupid throttle

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There are definitely 2 different throttle response with clutch switch on and off. I make my switch engage as soon as I grab the clutch alittle bit... It did not ride and shift good at all.

For information I am on 195low.
 
Chaotic said:
Agreed.

The bike has no business down or below 3k RPM.

And why would anyone need to blip the throttle at idle? Unless they are just trying to make the bike sound cool at a red light.



Agreed.

I have experienced the same things on pretty much every sportbike, even my highly tuned R6 Superbike.

These bikes are simply not meant to operate way down in the RPM's like that. The fueling is off.
Click to expand...

I don't need to blip throttle when stopped; but I can easily do fast take off or pull wheelies from stopped with no need to rev above 4k rpm if you slip the clutch while turning the throttle... You can't do that if the throttle response and revs are changing while attempting to slip the clutch. You don't need launch control or wheelie control and you don't need to over-rev the bike if the throttle behaves properly.
 
Odie, Have you found a solution for this in the end? Due to bad weather im only starting to get to know my 1299s and im experiencing very similar issue as you describe. The main problem is setting of from the lights. Finding that as soon as I reach anywhere near the biting point, I am no longer able to feed in throttle. Almost as if I need to se the throttle first with the clutch in and only then release the clutch. Anything else results in a slow, two stroke like launch.

I am taking the bike in to be looked at next week but any advice would be appreciated.
 
I find this thread very interesting, not knowing too much about the new trickery that these new bikes offer.
I have found that out of habit I blip on down shifts, it's just habit, however I have noticed that in the gears 5 through to 3 on the way down the throttle is very lethargic, ( I use the gas to blip , but it's very naff compared to how I blip say my KTM or my previous 1 lite bikes)
My previous R1 it was instant, I am also experiencing the "wonder" if it's going to go or not go at the lights, with me still concerned I'm going to stall it as I pull off, then I find myself at certain times over doing it and flying off with a bit more speed than intended.
My bike has now only got 1800km and I'm still new to it, this thread has me asking questions about the throttle response, before I was only questioning my lack of familiarity with it, but it seems it is a issue.
As for the comments further back re the Poster with the KTM super Duke ...in my case when I'm at the lights with my Duke (KTM) I rev it up to 2000rpm before putting it into gear because I'm so used to it just stalling as I engage gear, and this is a 2015 model and locally the dealer cannot find a fix for it...with them saying I am the only client in the world who has reported a throttle and low idle problem ?

I also do not wish to augment my bike with aftermarket tuning kits, I was hoping that I had purchased two top brands and that I would just get some years of enjoyment out of them.
Regarding the TPS is it not like on the KTM's where you switch on the ignition, turn throttle slowly full open and then gently full closed and the ignition off, that is the procedure for the KTM throttle TPS re set.
 
Throttle response on my bike is absolutely impeccable. Far and away the best I have ever had, including the two BMWs I also have now with ride by wire (see sig).
 
odie said:
I've happily eliminated the free-play with the throttle spacer fix; and there's still a small dead-zone where revs don't move after throttle is turned - which I'm expecting/hoping will get fixed when I ask the service centre to reset the TPS at first service.

But, my throttle is really laggy! Here's an example: blip the throttle when completed stopped in neutral (or clutch pulled in, in 1st gear) at idle... Let's say you blip to about 3000rpm. Now try doing the same thing when the bike is moving at walking pace (clutch pulled in, 1st gear, blip throttle). For the same amount of throttle movement the bike doesn't rev nearly as much (maybe not at all in fact or perhaps up to 2000rpm) and sometimes there's a delay before the revs start increasing.

Occasionally the throttle does respond quickly when moving, and causes me to over-rev when changing gears at slow speeds.

This is liveable if I'm just pottering around town like a grandmother, but makes it impossible to ride in any quick fashion... E.g. Taking off from a set of lights requires turning the throttle then waiting to see if the revs move... If not turn throttle a bit more; ease clutch out, etc. I'm slower than cars now at taking off from a set of lights. I've never had a bike with an inconsistent annoying throttle like this; and anyone watching would think I'm a learner rider. I am used to instant throttle response that allows for fast launches, not diesel 4wd throttle response.

Anyone else experience this behaviour and can it be fixed ? Wondering if this is a side affect of the closed loop O2 monitoring or some feature of the Ecu to change throttle response depending on if moving or stationary or something else ?
Click to expand...

Not read all through this but I had this's problem from day one, dealer said, as usual," they are all like that". However I demonstraighted the problem exactly as you explained it and then I checked the clutch switch operation..... bingo! The pin wasn't conecting with the micro switch lever, bend into position, weird throttle response gone......... there are lots of them like this, I have checked.
Ducati want there arses kicking, the fix is simple and it's just an assembly .... up.
 
Slowdive2 said:
I just did a blip test... clutch in N, clutch out N, clutch in 1st. I really didn't notice much of a difference...pretty instant all the time.
Click to expand...

It only happens when the wheels are turning (ABS sensors give info) and only in lower gears. If you adjust the clutch micro switch to work early in the lever travel the problem goes away. It really is as simple as that.
 
pigpenracing said:
Welcome to all the electronics! I hate all the limitations. I looked real close at the 1299 but chose to buy a 1198 because it has way less electronic crap on it. I like all the power, not kill it with all the modes and traction control. My 1198 has a quickshifter which is on and traction control which is turned off. The electronic crap may make it easier and faster on the track but way less fun on the street. Wheelie control???? That's crap. I like packing the front wheel 3 foot high at 100 plus mph. Its almost like they build a fast bike and then put limitations so beginners won't get on the bike and kill themselves?
I also had a 2014 KTM superduke. I paid a bunch for all the stupid electronic crap. I then had to spend more on a offroad dongle to disable all the stuff that makes it slow.
Click to expand...

What are you talking about ? Limitations ? All the electronic settings can be turned OFF.
 
Update: the bike has different throttle mappings for each gear and different for neutral; so clutch in vs clutch out causes ecu to switch throttle mappings (to neutral with clutch in).

The fix is to update the throttle map to be the same for all gears and same for neutral: some ECU reprogramming software can do this (and some change gears but not neutral).

Let me know if you want some throttle mapping numbers as a starting point. (Note this is throttle mapping not fuel mapping).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If that doesn't fix the problem, may be worth checking the MAP sensor as well. Map sensor failure could be hard to detect, especially if you are no longer on stock ecu/software (eg. Rexxer, tuneboy) and can cause intermittent or persistent throttle response issue, bad ignition, plug fouling / flooding, etc.

The way you described that at standstill it is fine but when moving it is erratic made me think it may have something to do with air pressure in the airbox/manifold that typically changes when moving / has positive airflow.

Source: just recently experienced one map sensor failure on my panigale and bad plugs on my carbureted bike.
 
Last edited:
odie said:
Update: the bike has different throttle mappings for each gear and different for neutral; so clutch in vs clutch out causes ecu to switch throttle mappings (to neutral with clutch in).

The fix is to update the throttle map to be the same for all gears and same for neutral: some ECU reprogramming software can do this (and some change gears but not neutral).

Let me know if you want some throttle mapping numbers as a starting point. (Note this is throttle mapping not fuel mapping).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I'd be interested in what you had everything set to. I have a somewhat similar problem when I come off track and just idling through the pits. low rpm throttle response is almost non-existent and I've had the bike die while in motion with the clutch pulled in. Although, I suspect it may be a MAP sensor or something, but I'm just not sure.

Runs absolutely perfect on track and I have the throttle spacers installed. Very responsive while on track w/higher rpms.
 
I'm having the same exact problem with my new to me 1299s with throttle spacers. When starting a omg from a stop, just about when the clutch is completely released. The throttle cuts out and the bike falls on it's face. It's extremely frustrating. Anyone found a solution? Checked the solenoid on the clutch lever but it looks good.
 
I feel your pain, i just bought a 1299 and my bike dose the same .....
People think I've never rode before, this bike has too many nannies!!
 
I stalled 3 out of 4 race starts on the grid , 4th I just limped off the line, a bit scary with more than 1/2 the field blasting past. 1st start , thought it was me but when it happened again something is not right. I have a RapidBike module so I'm looking at this 1st , then maybe something along co-posters here ?
Bike is a bit difficult to start, and doesnt sound happy at idle , but is strong after that .
 
EVR clutch, Barnett discs, EVR basket Oberon slave, Brembo 18x16MC. Bulletproof. Thing launches like a marble from a slingshot. Never once stalled this thing from a light regardless how aggressive or non aggressive the launch and I am for lack of a better description, a fairly low skilled rider by anyones standards.
 

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endodoc said:
EVR clutch, Barnett discs, EVR basket Oberon slave, Brembo 18x16MC. Bulletproof. Thing launches like a marble from a slingshot. Never once stalled this thing from a light regardless how aggressive or non aggressive the launch and I am for lack of a better description, a fairly low skilled rider by anyones standards.
Click to expand...

Dont think these issues are mechanical ?
 

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