Termignoni Evolution slip-ons: first road impressions

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Thanks 80 Shilling but my question was pertaining to how it compares to the first generation Termi rear ....... cans that most of us have"¦
 
the "hiccup" I was getting when I was going WOT - that was the DWC. I set DWC to be my +/- parameter, and set it to 2. No more hiccups, and it pulls like a freight train pretty much at any RPM.

These bikes, once tuned, are going to be absolute monsters. I mean, even more than they actually are.

The 1299 is so much an improvement over the 1199 that I have a feeling that somewhere, in some race league (probably amateur or pro-am), someone's going to stick a 1299 motor in an 1199 chassis and cheat :p
 
kismetcapitan said:
the "hiccup" I was getting when I was going WOT - that was the DWC. I set DWC to be my +/- parameter, and set it to 2. No more hiccups, and it pulls like a freight train pretty much at any RPM.

These bikes, once tuned, are going to be absolute monsters. I mean, even more than they actually are.

The 1299 is so much an improvement over the 1199 that I have a feeling that somewhere, in some race league (probably amateur or pro-am), someone's going to stick a 1299 motor in an 1199 chassis and cheat :p
Click to expand...
Yes.. I find that DWC at 1 or 2 is about right, 3 or more becomes too much and stops the bike from accelerating as hard as it can. On level 2, you can stay in the throttle full wide open and it keeps the front wheel about 1 foot off the ground and you can just slam it into the next ger, carrying the wheelie... SOOOOOO much fun.! :D Also, DTC is best at 1 or 2 as well.
 
Steve B said:
Wish I'd seen this prior to trying to install mine this afternoon. Mine came with zero instructions at all, but didn't appear to need any as it looked to be a super easy install. And was until of course I tried to hook up the front mounts, which of course is impossible with the exhaust valve motor and housing in place at the bottom front of the fairing - see attached pics for illustration. Scratched my head a bit and put the stocker back on, figuring it had shipped with a wrong front mount. Guess not! Can likely figure out the control box removal but it would be nice to see the instructions if anyone would be so kind as to scan or photo and send.
Click to expand...

Would like to remove the exhaust valve/servo ahead of getting the termi's!
If there are instructions to make sure I don't hash of it?! (I can wield tools ok but I'm no mechanic!)
 
chillo said:
Would like to remove the exhaust valve/servo ahead of getting the termi's!
If there are instructions to make sure I don't hash of it?! (I can wield tools ok but I'm no mechanic!)
Click to expand...
I will try to post the instructions here. It's not that difficult. Basically, on the underside of the fairing, there are 4 screws that hold the exhaust servo in place; unscrew them all. The servo is attached to TWO wires; unplug the wires from the left side of the bike; the Termis come with ONE plug to plug the servo wire. The other plug is attached to the fan; you need to thread it out of the servo housing and reattach to it's original place.

From the servo box, there is a cable - it goes back to the exhaust valve. You need to remove the long black plastic cover that covers that wire, then remove the end of the wire that goes into the valve.

You should be done.
 
80shilling said:
I will try to post the instructions here. It's not that difficult. Basically, on the underside of the fairing, there are 4 screws that hold the exhaust servo in place; unscrew them all. The servo is attached to TWO wires; unplug the wires from the left side of the bike; the Termis come with ONE plug to plug the servo wire. The other plug is attached to the fan; you need to thread it out of the servo housing and reattach to it's original place.

From the servo box, there is a cable - it goes back to the exhaust valve. You need to remove the long black plastic cover that covers that wire, then remove the end of the wire that goes into the valve.

You should be done.
Click to expand...

Guess my plug for the servo wire was in the bag with my instructions. Still in Italy somewhere! ;) I just wrapped it with tape. Really not much to the job, as you say.

Installed the filter this evening (very easy job as well) and took the bike out for a spin before dark. Since I've just replaced the forks and shock, I was really more concerned with fiddling with those, but gave it some stick to see how the Termis and filter affect the drive. The bike definitely feels stronger now; the flat spot isn't gone, but it's less flat. Where you used to be wondering what happened to the nice surge off the bottom while you waited for the next hit at around 7500 rpm, now it starts off stronger and pulls noticeably harder through the dreaded 5-6K range. Still not a linear power curve, but significantly less two-stroke-ish, to the point that you can carry a gear higher in some corners. Before you'd have to gear down to get drive, but then you'd be dealing with a really big hit off-apex; now you can leave it a gear higher and let it pull itself off the corner and into the meat of the powerband.

So... it'll be very interesting to see before/after dyno numbers with and without a tune, but as it is I'm happy with how the bike runs now without one. In sum, with this Termi kit only, the bike sounds better, runs noticeably stronger all the way up, and loses ten-plus pounds.
 
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80shilling said:
I will try to post the instructions here. It's not that difficult. Basically, on the underside of the fairing, there are 4 screws that hold the exhaust servo in place; unscrew them all. The servo is attached to TWO wires; unplug the wires from the left side of the bike; the Termis come with ONE plug to plug the servo wire. The other plug is attached to the fan; you need to thread it out of the servo housing and reattach to it's original place.

From the servo box, there is a cable - it goes back to the exhaust valve. You need to remove the long black plastic cover that covers that wire, then remove the end of the wire that goes into the valve.

You should be done.
Click to expand...

I posted this in the servo removal thread after a bit of a search:

Some instructions here: http://az79640.vo.msecnd.net/akrapov...a92cac60b4.pdf
(From the full akra install guide)
 
80shilling said:
From the servo box, there is a cable - it goes back to the exhaust valve. You need to remove the long black plastic cover that covers that wire, then remove the end of the wire that goes into the valve.
Click to expand...

or you can remove the cable, cover and all, with a lot of yanking, cussing, and a couple skinned knuckles....

my Termi kit came with neither instructions nor a plug for the servo. I just taped it up - as long as it doesn't light up the CEL, it's all good :)
 
kismetcapitan said:
or you can remove the cable, cover and all, with a lot of yanking, cussing, and a couple skinned knuckles....

my Termi kit came with neither instructions nor a plug for the servo. I just taped it up - as long as it doesn't light up the CEL, it's all good :)
Click to expand...

Been sayin' this for the last couple of months! It's the bomb!! lol
 
After a few hundred miles with the new Termi Carbon, front exit slip-ons, I LOVE them.

The biggest difference is in the underseat heat; massively less heat through the seat now... all I have to do, is get the carbon frame rail protectors and I think I'll be golden!!!

Definitely liking the increased power at top and midrange. I will be getting my custom tune done soon (I hope.. Shiv is not returning my calls at the moment..).. if Shiv can't spare the time, I will go with the RapidBike Race module, since the new exhaust is making the bike run rich in some areas and I really want to get the fueling PERFECT.

Overall, a great addition to my 1299 and the price is a big benefit. I am not sure how much more power a full AKRA would get me, or how much more weight it would save (1 lb. is what it seems to be, vs. this slip-on), but at almost $6,000 installed for the full Akra, the Termis seem to be 99% of the same benefits at around 35% of the price.

Cheers.
 
Just following up after a 350mi day out in the mountains this weekend with the new exhaust/filter. Really liking the power the bike (1199 in my case) makes with these changes sans tune. Fueling seems a touch hinky at super low revs, but it's OK in the range you use while riding. Subjective butt dyno results (no chart!) would appear to support the Termi dyno charts; stronger off the bottom with a more linear transition into the upper range; just plain stronger throughout. Still a bit of a flat spot, but not nearly as bad. Pulling 3rd off corners I generally used 2nd on before, so less shifting and less chassis upset. Was switching between race mode with TC/EBC on 2/3 and sport mode using 3/2. Never much liked sport mode before with the progressive throttle, but it's quite useable now with the extra grunt. Dialed in a bit more engine braking going from 3 to 2 as I was carrying a higher gear.

It's louder than I'd prefer it to be, and you most definitely notice it from onboard due to the location/direction of the front outlets. Not a lot different I suspect from roadside, but from the saddle it's not subtle. Saving grace is the sound quality, which is much improved from OEM. Just wear good plugs and enjoy... ;)

I'll be very interested to see dynos with this exhaust/filter setup and no tune and then with a Rapidbike to see what else can be done to fill in the middle of the torque curve. Progress made, quest for linear power continues!
 
Steve B said:
Just following up after a 350mi day out in the mountains this weekend with the new exhaust/filter. Really liking the power the bike (1199 in my case) makes with these changes sans tune. Fueling seems a touch hinky at super low revs, but it's OK in the range you use while riding. Subjective butt dyno results (no chart!) would appear to support the Termi dyno charts; stronger off the bottom with a more linear transition into the upper range; just plain stronger throughout. Still a bit of a flat spot, but not nearly as bad. Pulling 3rd off corners I generally used 2nd on before, so less shifting and less chassis upset. Was switching between race mode with TC/EBC on 2/3 and sport mode using 3/2. Never much liked sport mode before with the progressive throttle, but it's quite useable now with the extra grunt. Dialed in a bit more engine braking going from 3 to 2 as I was carrying a higher gear.

It's louder than I'd prefer it to be, and you most definitely notice it from onboard due to the location/direction of the front outlets. Not a lot different I suspect from roadside, but from the saddle it's not subtle. Saving grace is the sound quality, which is much improved from OEM. Just wear good plugs and enjoy... ;)

I'll be very interested to see dynos with this exhaust/filter setup and no tune and then with a Rapidbike to see what else can be done to fill in the middle of the torque curve. Progress made, quest for linear power continues!
Click to expand...

a power dip will be a power dip, but when I changed gearing from stock 15/39 to 15/41, I really can't feel it anymore. I've got my Tuneboy module and am still trying to get my Windows-illiterate mind around the process of actually flashing in the first map as well as the other features. Once that happens, I should be even closer to optimum power delivery.
 
kismetcapitan said:
a power dip will be a power dip, but when I changed gearing from stock 15/39 to 15/41, I really can't feel it anymore. I've got my Tuneboy module and am still trying to get my Windows-illiterate mind around the process of actually flashing in the first map as well as the other features. Once that happens, I should be even closer to optimum power delivery.
Click to expand...

Yup, had considered same. That's still working our way around the flattish middle though, and it depends on the nature of the most common corners you encounter as to what the best ratio is. Bit more area under the curve between 5K-7K and I'm a happy guy; don't really need any more on the bottom or top.
 
kismetcapitan said:
a power dip will be a power dip, but when I changed gearing from stock 15/39 to 15/41, I really can't feel it anymore. I've got my Tuneboy module and am still trying to get my Windows-illiterate mind around the process of actually flashing in the first map as well as the other features. Once that happens, I should be even closer to optimum power delivery.
Click to expand...

I guess I forgot yo mention in my review, I did this same gear change - as a lot of us did before the first software update from DNA, it really made a difference. Maybe with this and the filter, it really doesn't require a tune :)
 
Steve B said:
Yup, had considered same. That's still working our way around the flattish middle though, and it depends on the nature of the most common corners you encounter as to what the best ratio is. Bit more area under the curve between 5K-7K and I'm a happy guy; don't really need any more on the bottom or top.
Click to expand...

in general, I'd have to agree - better exhaust and intake, and gearing to mask the "problem" only mitigates things. I'll bet anything that dip is there to meet emissions testing, and so the obvious solution is to map it out and get the fueling optimized for performance, not for government regulatory agencies. OCD demands I take this final step!
 
So, I have given up on having my bike's ECU custom tuned; my tuner is impossible to get hold of and I can't be bothered to chase him down. I'm going RapidBike module.

I just ordered the 1299 specific race module from Yaman. I will have it installed by my dealership and then take it out for a long ride to get it "learning".

All of this has to wait until I get back from a vacation in Kauai though.

I will post up my impressions and dyno results when it's all done. Yaman tells me that I have to ride the bike HARD to get the unit to adjust the parameters correctly all the way through the rev range, so that's what I will do.

Cheers.
 
80shking, I'll fly out to Cali and take it to the track for you. Once I'm done with it, it will be fully learned, LOL.
 
Ljuice26 said:
80shking, I'll fly out to Cali and take it to the track for you. Once I'm done with it, it will be fully learned, LOL.
Click to expand...
That's SOOOO nice of you to offer, LJuice, but I think I have it covered.. I'm signed up for a two day event at Thunderhill. I'm dying to find out if I will be quicker or slower on the 1299, than I was on the BMW S1000RR.

I'm sure I will be faster on the 1299, but only the lap times will prove it. I will be running the exact same tyres I usually run and it's the exact same track configuration. No doubt the temperatures will be in the 105+ degree range, as usual up there.

A couple of pics of me from the last time I was up there: In the second photo, the instructor behind me is Cory Call, he's a GREAT teacher and he was racing at the last Laguna Seca event in AMA SSTK 1000, where he got a 5th place in his first ever race in that series. He is FAST around Thunderhill, having held the lap record on numerous occasions.
p1647295929-5.jpg
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p1710650873-5.jpg


Cheers.
 
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