The Conversion and the Converted

Yeah, I'm running a 1299 with what was 1199 bodywork.

I actually DID get an opportunity to crash test my t-rex sliders, I keep meaning to create a crash report thread ...maybe I'll do that today.

I only kept the T-rex on the suspension side, and covered the case on the right side with a GB cover. I low-sided at about 90mph onto the T-rex and it protected the gas tank, swingarm, and suspension completely. The bodywork is complete toast - both the front fairing and the tail section disintegrated. The exhaust and swingarm got scraped up from flying gravel. Nothing on the T-rex frame bent or broke and it's basically ready to crash again. Very impressed.

Crashing sucks ass; but, I am glad the T-Rex protection did its job.

Styler said:

I'm going to try and use that trick for sure and it will no doubt help tremendously; however, I am still battling muscle memory.

I can only hope to adapt as quickly as you. From what I understand, you were on the podium the same day you switched to GP-shift!

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Something that was said to me years ago when I switched to GP-shift was, "head down, shift down, head up, shift up." Meaning when you're in a tuck you're up shifting and when you raise up from behind the bible, you're downshifting. That little mental nugget served me well as I learned the new pattern. I now have all of my motorcycles with GP pattern, even my Harley! Lol

Styler said:

OK; I've drained the oil and drilled the tab on the sump to safety-wire the Kraaitech oil drain to the bike and the oil drain plug to it. (See: http://ducati1299.com/racing/24466-kraaitech-oil-drain-bellypan.html)

Now, the next thing is to attach the oil catchment belly-pan to the bike.

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I purchased two of the insulating metal sheets from Woodcraft and used most of the material on the inside of the fairing to protect my new paint job from heat. (See previous post #109, this thread.) Using the left-over material, I insulated the belly-pan where silencers are and then added another layer of the 3M metal tape to hold the patch work of insulating material together and make everything neat and tidy. I figure this will make the pan last longer.
I used a 1 inch diamond bit to cut a hole in the area directly below the Kraaitech unit for the rubber belly pan plug. One inch is just a little bit too small and so I opened up the diameter a bit using a Dremel tool. (Likely, the appropriate bit is a 1&1/8 bit.) The rubber plug works like a charm and now provides access to the drain plug so that I do not have to remove the silencers and belly pan to perform an oil change.
The Armour Bodies belly pan fits the bike perfectly and the divot at the front of the belly pan is perfectly aligned with the original attachment point for the OEM fairings underneath the oil radiator. I used the original hardware along with a couple of rubber washers to secure the belly pan to the bike.
The other attachment point for the belly pan are the bolts that fix the front of each silencer to the bike. I purchased a slightly longer M6 bolt (1 inch) and some washers to secure the silencers and belly pan using the OEM nut. As you can see, the belly pan completely encloses the oil rad.
Job done!
The side panels fit back on, although though they are a little more snug than they were.

Good to see it all fits nicely styler without having to remove the lower cooler

Im going to try to have my 1299 doing double duties.. road and track so didnt want to remove that

But im guessing the fans gone?

Dark said:

But im guessing the fans gone?

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Yes; the fan must go to install the belly pan.

maslov lined this thread.

I was wondering any updates since last thread. this was interesting.

Where are you at? and how things are going?

youngR said:

maslov lined this thread.

I was wondering any updates since last thread. this was interesting.

Where are you at? and how things are going?

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Ditto. I'm basically replicating this entire job on my 1299 and this thread has been SUPER helpful.

No posts throughout 2017 hope things are OK!

Amazing Post!!!

Could you tell me what is the main reason to change the subframe to a tubular one?
Because of heat problems? Or because the bike is better in circuit?

Hey guys; I'm back.

I was living in CA (Oakland) for most of the last year and my track bike was in NW Arkansas. I left NW AR without my bikes on the July 4th weekend in 2016 and did not ship out my road bike until April 2017 (working way too much). Anyway, I took full advantage of being out there to ride the roads of Northern California once I did get my bike out there.

At the end of June I quit my job, went on a track day at Laguna Seca with a rented S1000RR, went to the WSB races there a week later, and then did a 6,000 tour of the western US. Pics from the races and the tour are posted on Instagram and may be found by searching for "whereistylernow" (my instagram handle).

After 14 months off of the Ducati, I started doing track days again with her in August and have since racked up 6 days this year on three different tracks, had the 15,000 mile service at which point I had the shop install the custom machined, titainium valve-cover bolts and safety-wired them along with the new titainium fork/axle pinch bolts.

I've also spacked out a custom race trailer and finally took delivery and began using it this past August. There are some posts in the forum on that.

I'm off to the track again this weekend, a new track for me (Hastings, Nebraska). I'll start this tread up again as I have plans for more work on the bike. I need to upgrade the cooling system with a WSB Racing radiator and oil cooler; however, I am not sure if I'll be doing the installation my self. If I do, It wont be until after the last track weekend of the year (November 18/19). Until then, I'll post some of the results of my research on the subject here in this thread.
Cheers...

Cranck said:

Could you tell me what is the main reason to change the subframe to a tubular one?
Because of heat problems? Or because the bike is better in circuit?

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It helps with keeping the BBS unit cooler although this has not been a problem for me. The main reason for a race/track bike is just weight loss, simplicity and cost as there are lots of parts there on the stock tail unit that can break and are expensive if you crashl. I have a tubular rear subframe and also fibreglass tail unit for sale if you want to do this? I've never got around to fitting it on my bike. I'm coming to Alcarras near Barcelona on October 22-24th if you are nearby?

Cranck said:

Could you tell me what is the main reason to change the subframe to a tubular one?
Because of heat problems? Or because the bike is better in circuit?

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This work is only for a track bike. This, in combination with converting to racing bodywork (tail section) it drops a lot of weight; however, the primary reason is to improve crash worthiness. The aluminum tubing is far more robust AND may be bent back into shape if one crashes and tweaks the subframe; the cast OEM tail section cracks or fractures easily and would be a write-off. Plus the aftermarket part is way cool, it was winter and I was only working part time - so what the hell, why not.

royal said:

It helps with keeping the BBS unit cooler although this has not been a problem for me. The main reason for a race/track bike is just weight loss, simplicity and cost as there are lots of parts there on the stock tail unit that can break and are expensive if you crashl. I have a tubular rear subframe and also fibreglass tail unit for sale if you want to do this? I've never got around to fitting it on my bike. I'm coming to Alcarras near Barcelona on October 22-24th if you are nearby?

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Thank you very much for the information.

For the moment, I do not want to put that subchassis on the bike, I'm

Alcarras ?? It's really far from my house .... almost 1,000km (700 miles)!!
I am from Galicia, which is in the West of Spain and Alcarrás is in Catalonia, which is in the East.

Anyway, thank you very much for the invitation.

Styler said:

This work is only for a track bike. This, in combination with converting to racing bodywork (tail section) it drops a lot of weight; however, the primary reason is to improve crash worthiness. The aluminum tubing is far more robust AND may be bent back into shape if one crashes and tweaks the subframe; the cast OEM tail section cracks or fractures easily and would be a write-off. Plus the aftermarket part is way cool, it was winter and I was only working part time - so what the hell, why not.

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Ok, thanks for the information, I'll keep it in mind if I ever use the bike for track.

Very good thread and everything very well explained.

Thank you.