The Conversion and the Converted

Ljuice26 · Mar 18, 2016

Styler said:
Perhaps Leon can chime in; he just moved to the P16 Race filter like yours because it has twice the surface area (a big benefit when paired with tuning). He may have an answer or suggestion. Good luck.

Gecko,
I havent ridden the bike yet. Just around the corner and back. We didnt use anything extra to keep the air filter in place. I'm positive it will be fine. I will add that Yaman always using a little pit of silicon to hold all of the airfilters he install in place. I don't think it is necessary.

Ljuice26 · Mar 18, 2016

Styler said:
Things are starting to come together; however, there is still a pile of work to do.

I like it.

Ljuice26 · Mar 18, 2016

Are you racing this year or just doing track days?

Styler · Mar 18, 2016

Ljuice26 said:
Are you racing this year or just doing track days?

The plan this year is to do track days.
I may get my racing license; as part of the training/licensing process I will participate in a "mock race" - we'll see how that goes.

Hey; are you running Shark Skins or Armour Bodies stuff? I am having a problem with the fair-to-fairing stay mounts on my Armour Bodies stuff. See post above, pic 3.

Ljuice26 · Mar 18, 2016

Sharkskinz. I was having an issue with the upper as well. Adam, the tech at Melillimoto took care of it.

Ljuice26 · Mar 18, 2016

What track day are you attending?

Take some better pics of the fairing stay and where the issue is with the upper.

derblott · Mar 18, 2016

I have CRC body work and have a similar problem. The hole for the fairing doesn't match up with the stay. I'm just going to zip tie the thing...!

Styler · Mar 21, 2016

derblott said:
I have CRC body work and have a similar problem. The hole for the fairing doesn't match up with the stay. I'm just going to zip tie the thing...!

The holes match up just fine; the problem is that the mounting point for the front fair to fairing-stay is indented on the bodywork, which causes a gap between the fairing and the windscreen. See post #100, third photo posted above.

Anyway, I've decided to live with it.

Styler · Mar 21, 2016

Heat shielding of the body work

I picked up some heat shielding from sportbiketrackgear.com and stuck it to the inside of the fairing. There is no way in hell that I want to ruin my brand new paint job.

Styler · Mar 21, 2016

Today was the day: Test Ride

Well, to day was the day.
I finished everything I planned on doing before the first track weekend (except suspension and numbers) and so I took her out for a quick stealth spin around the neighborhood to check the position of the shift lever.
The shift lever was fine; but holy crap do I have some work to do to get used to the GP-shift pattern!

It is going to take some time to unthink 30+ years of riding a bike with a standard shift pattern.
Anyway, here she is...
I'll take some better pics with a real camera this weekend at the track.

EDIT: I still have to install the belly pan; but that can wait until I get a kraaitech drain plug.

Gecko · Mar 21, 2016

Styler said:
Well, to day was the day.
I finished everything I planned on doing before the first track weekend (except suspension and numbers) and so I took her out for a quick stealth spin around the neighborhood to check the position of the shift lever.
The shift lever was fine; but holy crap do I have some work to do to get used to the GP-shift pattern!
It is going to take some time to unthink 30+ years of riding a bike with a standard shift pattern.
Anyway, here she is...
I'll take some better pics with a real camera this weekend at the track.

Well Done

Great job. I hope your aluminium foil heat shield sticks.

Ljuice26 · Mar 21, 2016

Beautiful bike. Nice build.

derblott · Mar 21, 2016

Couple questions for the racers in the thread:

I'm starting my novice year and just finished new racer school. I'm told that the bellypan must be removed for tech inspection to ensure it holds enough liquid and doesn't have any holes.

Do your race organizers have the same requirement? The bellypan on the pani can only be removed by removing the exhaust, and it's a pretty skimpy belly pan...anyone have issues with this at tech?

Also, I believe that a non-stock subframe bumps the bike from supersport to superbike, is that also correct?

Competing in WMRRA this year, if anyone else is in the PNW and is in WMRRA hit me up!

Ljuice26 · Mar 21, 2016

derblott said:
Couple questions for the racers in the thread:

I'm starting my novice year and just finished new racer school. I'm told that the bellypan must be removed for tech inspection to ensure it holds enough liquid and doesn't have any holes.

Do your race organizers have the same requirement? The bellypan on the pani can only be removed by removing the exhaust, and it's a pretty skimpy belly pan...anyone have issues with this at tech?

Also, I believe that a non-stock subframe bumps the bike from supersport to superbike, is that also correct?

Competing in WMRRA this year, if anyone else is in the PNW and is in WMRRA hit me up!

Wera doesnt require the belly pan to be removed. If you have sharkskins (not sure of the other brands), you can see the cap for the oil filter is safety wired. Second, if you get the kraaitech drain plug, you have to cut a hole directly under the drain plug to change the oil (They send you a plug for the hole you drill and with this option, there is no need to remove the pan or exhaust). You can use a mirror on the ground to show everything is safety wired without removing anything. Not sure about the subframeIF you are talking in regards to motoholders/pierbon/tighttails, I believe these aftermarket subframe doesn't make your bike SS illegal.

Chaotic · Mar 22, 2016

Styler said:
holy crap do I have some work to do to get used to the GP-shift pattern!
It is going to take some time to unthink 30+ years of riding a bike with a standard shift pattern.

Think "backshift" rather than "downshift". It might not seem like a big deal, but that helped me tremendously.

Joe Kraft (the dad of my good friend Eddie) told me that in our pit a couple of years ago when I was swapping from STD to GP.

That little brain trigger helped a lot.

Styler · Mar 22, 2016

Chaotic said:
Think "backshift" rather than "downshift". It might not seem like a big deal, but that helped me tremendously.

I'm going to try and use that trick for sure and it will no doubt help tremendously; however, I am still battling muscle memory.

I can only hope to adapt as quickly as you. From what I understand, you were on the podium the same day you switched to GP-shift!

Chaotic · Mar 22, 2016

Yeah, I learned it during a race weekend and managed to Podium while doing it. But it wasn't easy, not at all. I had to consciously think about every single shift, up or down. I would have to prepare my foot (and mind) ahead of time.

It was mentally exhausting and something i am glad I never to do again. Haha.

I don't envy you.

BTW - before you get to the track (assuming it is a track you have been to and know), close your eyes and run "mental laps" and practice GP shifting in your head. Actually lift or press your foot accordingly when you reach the (mental) braking zone and are accelerating out. You can start working on that muscle memory and mental aspect ahead of time.

AntiHero · Mar 24, 2016

Great thread. Thanks for taking the time to document and post your build.

Two things that helped me not blow my motor with the GP shift:

1) Think of the shifter as an accelerator pedal. Push for more speed.
2) When you downshift, think of the shifter as pulling the reigns on a horse.

Both mental 'tricks' help override the momentary confusion that comes from reversing 30 years of riding.

Also, this is probably more appropriate for the street than the track, but never use the clutch when accelerating and shifting. The 1199's QS will only allow full throttle upshifts, not downshifts. So not using the clutch is a safety mechanism protecting your motor.

madmaxmenon · Mar 24, 2016

Question on the armour bodies tail section - I am moving from cruciata and not sure how the tail section mounts. On the cruciata, the tail was in two halves and they screwed on the bottom and the top. On the armour bodies, the bottom section is separate and won't hold onto any part of the bike except the top section. Is this how it is supposed to be? Or am I missing something?

Is there something missing in this pic?

shakazulu12 · Mar 24, 2016

derblott said:
Couple questions for the racers in the thread:

I'm starting my novice year and just finished new racer school. I'm told that the bellypan must be removed for tech inspection to ensure it holds enough liquid and doesn't have any holes.

Do your race organizers have the same requirement? The bellypan on the pani can only be removed by removing the exhaust, and it's a pretty skimpy belly pan...anyone have issues with this at tech?

Also, I believe that a non-stock subframe bumps the bike from supersport to superbike, is that also correct?

Competing in WMRRA this year, if anyone else is in the PNW and is in WMRRA hit me up!

Just read the Supersport section on the online rulebook. Here is the line you are looking for specifically though:

x. Subframes: Aftermarket subframes may replace OEM
subframes that consist of the same material as OEM and
use the original mounting points. OEM seats must be able
to be used without modification.

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