The Conversion and the Converted

Aluminum Fairing Stay

The lightweight and reparable aluminum fairing stay came from Tightails today.
I was planning on powder coating it black to match the sub-frame; however, there is beauty in the perfect welds and purposeful look of raw aluminum. So, now I am not so sure.
To powder-coat, or not? That is the question

Is shrinkwrapping your tires really necessary? Honest question for those out there.

I've got pirelli SC2 slicks.

I've got some kitchen "cling wrap" on my rear tire to protect it from accidental grease, brake cleaner and other crap while I am working on the bike. I can't think of any other reason.

Ahhh interesting, I saw a guy at the track once with shrinkwrap on his tires and he said it was to keep them from drying out.

Picked up my painted bodywork today, mine is nearly done now, just waiting on the 1299 rearsets from woodcraft STILL...

I also am using the woodcraft lever guards. What are you doing for sliders?

Edit: See your t-rex sliders in the pic. It's what I was using but the bodywork doesn't fit around them clutch side.

Styler said:

The woodcraft bar ends and lever guards arrived on Friday. I installed tem on Saturday, taking about 30 minutes to pull the OEM bar-ends, fit the Woodcraft product hand tight, adjust and then apply blue thread-lock to all bolts and torque into place.

I am very impressed with the durable design and purpose-built construction of the products, a billet aluminum base with replaceable nylon components that may be purchased individually if one happens to crash.

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Yep, that's the ones we talked about. I have that same setup on all of my bikes. Really like it.

derblott said:

Is shrinkwrapping your tires really necessary? Honest question for those out there.

I've got pirelli SC2 slicks.

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I guess it makes sense to keep .... from being sprayed or spilled on them. I have never done it, but I don't do anything to my bikes. I really don't know if Livengood does anything like that or not.

I would think he doesn't, because he puts old tires on the bike when he works on it and for dyno testing and stuff. The new ones don't go on until he is ready to bring them to the track.

If the actual riding tires were on the bike and it was going to be worked on, it makes sense and seems like a good idea.

derblott said:

Ahhh interesting, I saw a guy at the track once with shrinkwrap on his tires and he said it was to keep them from drying out.

Picked up my painted bodywork today, mine is nearly done now, just waiting on the 1299 rearsets from woodcraft STILL...

I also am using the woodcraft lever guards. What are you doing for sliders?

Edit: See your t-rex sliders in the pic. It's what I was using but the bodywork doesn't fit around them clutch side.

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My tire supplier takes his tires off the bike for the winter and puts them in an industrial green garbage bag for some reason; however, I don't know if there really is a benefit. That said, it is unlikely that putting some kitchen-grade cling-wrap over them (as I am doing) would prevent them from "drying out." I can tell you that it has prevented me from transferring grease to the rear tire accidentally on a couple of occasions.

Your bike looks very smart. Yes; I am very with the T-rex sliders and how they protect the bodywork in addition to the engine cases. Is the issue you have with the bodywork not clearing them a problem with the 1299, or is it common to the 1199 as well?

Not sure - I am using 1199 bodywork, but the t-Rex clutch cover is simply very thick, it's actually the heads of the bolts that push on the bodywork. The plastic stock stuff fit fine, though. Let me know how yours ends up fitting!

Called woodcraft today and my rear sets shipped...

Amazing write up. I plan on doing this myself next season after 1st deployment is complete.

Or just get a Panigale R hehe

Styler said:

My tire supplier takes his tires off the bike for the winter and puts them in an industrial green garbage bag for some reason; however, I don't know if there really is a benefit.

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Storing them indoors in an area with flourescent (UV) lighting for a period of time can degrade the rubber/compounds. Putting them in green/black plastic trash bags will block the UV.
I used to get race slicks trackside (at least Bridgestone) wound with protective wrap. Assume it was because they were stored at some warehouse with flourescent lighting.

Sourcing Info for Sub-frame and Fairing Stay

I have had some messages regarding where to source the sub-frame and fairing stay.
I went with Andre Taylor, owner of Powersports Stuff; he brings a mobile shop and service truck to all of our local track days.
Anyway, his web site is http://www.powersports-stuff.com/; however, it sucks. And, any of the products on the site do not reflect what he as access to nor his actual pricing.
So, just send him an email; tell him I (Tyler) sent you his way and see what he can do for you on whatever you need.

Name: Andre Taylor
Email: [email protected]

I've also ordered some Woodcraft rear-sets from him, GP-shift. The Lightech rearsets are nice; but I don't need the additional adjustability beyond what Woodcraft offers and I'd rather put the additional $$ towards an airbag vest.

Swapped out Fairing Stays

I pulled the OEM fairing stay, lights and horn today and put back the front end using the aftermarket race fairing stay from Tightails. All in, I dropped 5.5 lbs.

Again, I was impressed with the Tightail's product; it even had holes drilled for the air intake sensor.

I used some heat-shrink wire insulator to cover all of the plugs not in use. (See last two pics.) That said, I am still waiting for my plug kit from Ducati Omaha to plug the headlight connector. It shipped last week so it should arrive Monday.

Between the 5.5 lbs gone up front and the 8 lbs dropped at the other end of the bike with the adoption of the Tightails subframe, I think I might even be able to feel the difference in fast, lateral transitions on the track. At the extreme ends and high-up - it should be noticeable.

From my calculations, the bike should be coming in at about 380 lbs with 2 US gallons of gas in it. (Assuming the track bodywork weighs about the same as OEM plastic and I figure out a way to keep the radiator fan with the belly pan.)

Ljuice26 said:

Yeah, how in the hell did you keep the fan on the Panigale and install the oil retention pan? Chaotic

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Hey; if you and Chaotic are still going to be at the track this weekend, please report back with some pics of his set-up and tell us how he retained the fan with the belly pan.

Styler said:

I pulled the OEM fairing stay, lights and horn today and put back the front end using the aftermarket race fairing stay from Tightails. All in, I dropped 5.5 lbs.
.......

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Very clever idea to wrap the rear wheel with cling film!!!! Thanks for the idea!

Racing Connector Delete Plugs

I received the various delete plugs for the wiring loom today (AKA the “Racing Electrical Connector Kit,” part number 96580011A [first pic]), and the rear brake light connector plug (AKA "Rear Track Fairing Connector Kit," part number 96580021A [second pic].)

In order of appearance in the first pic, the three delete plugs are:
1. Radiator fan (black oval)
2. Kickstand delete (triangular white)
3. Headlights (translucent rectangle)

At this point, I am only using the headlight delete plug, since I am waiting to see if Chaotic was able to use the racing belly pan AND keep the radiator fan, and I am still undecided about getting rid of the kickstand prior to getting a chock block for the front wheel so that I can roll up after a session and not drop my bike while holding it up and fiddling with a rear stand.

Anyway, installation of the headlight plug is easy-peasy; just plug it in and zip-tie the plugged connector to the wiring loom so that it is not flopping about. (See pic 3).

I was REALLY disappointed with the tail-light delete plug, since I was expecting it to plug the connector for the tail lights where it meets the main wiring harness, just behind the tank. (See pic 4.) Instead, the plug is for connector at the very back of the bike, where the loom actually connects to the tail lights (yellow connector, very top left corner of pic 5). So, if I wanted to use this plug I would have to pull the 2+ feet of wiring from the OEM tail section and connect it to the main wiring loom at the connector just behind the tank (again, see pic 4). Well, to me that seems idiotic, and so I just used some of the heat shrink wrap to seal of the plug that connects the main wiring loom to the rear wiring (see pic 6) and I will have to figure something else out to keep the error codes at bay.

I suppose the "rear track fairing" plug might makes sense if you are keeping the OEM sub-frame and don’t want to pull the wiring or if you are just looking to kill the tail-lights when taking your bike to the track; but, really? Why not just make a plug for the connector near the main wiring loom and give people the option of pulling the extra 2+ feet of wiring (or not)?

Anyway, I do not want an error message on the dash every time I use the brakes, so I am going to try something else. I recall that someone on this forum somewhere noted that they had “disconnected one wire from the sensor on front brake switch” and that the thought they did the same for the rear but was not positive.

So, if anyone can provide me with some direction on this, including pics of the wire-sensor connectors that need to be pulled, I would be thankful.

P.S. PM me if you want to buy a "Rear Track Fairing Connector Kit," part number 96580021A (second pic). I can see it being of use for anyone doing a casual track day and wants to be able to quickly go back and forth between road and track duty. They retail for US$16 plus shipping; the package remains unopened. EDIT: The tail light plug (AKA "Rear track Fairing Connector Kit") is sold.

On another matter, I am still waiting on my track body work. Sean, the painter and proprietor of CCR, is still recovering from pneumonia and I can see how hanging out in a paint booth with a respirator on would suck when you have to expel green slime every couple of minutes (and not wearing a respirator is just foolish). Poor .......; I had pneumonia once an it blows.
So... It looks like I will not be able to make the track this weekend, which was just scheduled in response to the awesome weather and sunny and 75 F forecast. All well.

I wont be going the track this weekend at Tally. I'm still waiting for my fairings from Sean also. I'm also waiting for my new exhaust coming from our neighborhood drug dealer, I mean parts supplier, Zohsix01. Also, I just sent my ECU to Steve at Moto Rapido to get some stuff turned off and some SSTK flashing so we can map the bike the correct way with RapidBike when installing the new exhaust.

Just follow the wire from the rear brake and unplug. For the front follow wire and disconnect one wire of the two. I disconnected the grey wire. Then you'll be all set and no worry of the red light on dash.

Race rear-sets; disconnecting rear brake wiring

Rear-sets arrived yesterday and I started the process of switching out the OEM stuff, beginning with the right side.

I left the brake switch assembled to the OEM rear-set and followed the wire up along-side the engine and to the plug on the right side, which I then unplugged and pulled the entire wire and brake switch with the OEM foot controls. I figure, this way it will be easier to put everything back together if and when the bike ever goes back to street mode.

Is this what you mean when you note to disconnect the wire? (See second pic.) It does not jive with your description.
Will simply unplugging the wire prevent an error code or do I need to do more?

wfoduck said:

Just follow the wire from the rear brake and unplug. For the front follow wire and disconnect one wire of the two. I disconnected the grey wire. Then you'll be all set and no worry of the red light on dash. ����

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I disconnected the rear brake sensor and no warning lights

Where exactly is that sensor? Pics please