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Delete plugs for headlights and tail-lights

Can you guys enlighten me as to what I will need when I eliminate the headlights and tail-lights as I progress with my track-bike conversion? I want the bike to operate without any error codes appearing on the dash.
(I plan to keep the side-stand and radiator fan.)
Links to products would be ideal.
Thanks in advance.
 
Since you are making it a track-only bike, I would HIGHLY suggest eliminating the side-stand. There is no good that can come from leaving it on the bike.

Definitely keep the radiator fan though.
 
Since you are making it a track-only bike, I would HIGHLY suggest eliminating the side-stand. There is no good that can come from leaving it on the bike.

Definitely keep the radiator fan though.

I understand the risk; it's just that the side-stand is just so damn convenient. What I've done thus far is use the side stand when the bike is in the garage and moving it to and from the track, but zip-tie it up during the track day.

Nonetheless, I will consider your advice. Thanks.
 
Man, this is good stuff! I'm hoping to potentially go through a track conversion myself down the road, your write up is on point!
 
Since you are making it a track-only bike, I would HIGHLY suggest eliminating the side-stand. There is no good that can come from leaving it on the bike.

Definitely keep the radiator fan though.

Why is the radiator fan so important on a track-only bike?

I haven't yet tested the racing mod radiator I got installed over the winter but was constantly above 100 cels with the stock radiator and fan riding lightly... And had the fan removed from all my previous trackbikes with no issues as a consequence.
 
How many dzus bodywork fasteners are required

My sub-frame has shipped and my track body work should ship from the painter next week.
In preparation for all of that, can anybody tell me how many dzus bodywork fasteners are required to fix the superbike tail, bellypan, and the front fairing?
I've bought a pack of six; but that likely won't do it and I want to bundle whatever else I need with my order of the Woodcraft lever guards and bar-ends so that I may take advantage of the free shipping.
Armour Bodies Dzus Bodywork Fastener Kit 6 Pack - Sportbike Track Gear
Again, thanks in advance!
 
Delete plugs for headlights and tail-lights

Can you guys enlighten me as to what I will need when I eliminate the headlights and tail-lights as I progress with my track-bike conversion? I want the bike to operate without any error codes appearing on the dash.
(I plan to keep the side-stand and radiator fan.)
Links to products would be ideal.
Thanks in advance.

On the advice of a Forum member (Thanks Prince Albert), I sent a PM to another member here (jarlj), the GM of Ducati Omaha to get his input. With his permission, I post his helpful response below for the benefit of others who want to convert their road bike into a track bike.

"What you need is the "Ducati Racing Electric Connector Kit", it's what is shipped with the Ducati race bodywork kits. This will take care of all the dash errors, it's a complete kit for all of the lights, signals and sidestand. It's considered an OEM Part rather than an accessory, so you can buy it on our OEM parts page using the part number 96580011A, it's $26.99.

For $27 I figure its a good deal, and enables me to take Chaotic's advice (see post above) about the side-stand if I choose to do so. Although they are currently (Jan 28, 2016) sold out, they have 6 more kits already on the way from the warehouse in Bologna, so they should have them in a few days.

Parts ordering page is here: Ducati Omaha - Ducati OEM Parts Ordering System - Parts Fiche - Ducati Parts
Note: when checking out, enter the discount code "DUCPARTS" to get free shipping, since the order is over the $25 minimum required for ground shipping in the continental USA at no-charge.
________________

UPDATE/EDIT courtesy of forum member "derblott"

"There's some misinformation in this thread. I just bought this kit myself and installed it. The 3 plugs are for:
1. Headlights
2. Radiator fan (the black one)
3. Kickstand delete (the triangular white one)

There is no plug for the taillight in this kit. I believe the "rear track fairing" kit from Ducati comes with one. But as mentioned above, you can simply disconnect the brake light switch relay to ensure the error never comes up on the dash. It's under the right hand side fairing."

________________

UPDATE/EDIT courtesy of forum member "jarlj" for those of you who want to get the tail light plug instead of disconnecting the brake light switch.

"Yeah, you're right, I was thinking it was the whole kit but my parts department corrected me on it, there's an additional part number for the rear brake light plug. Part number: 96580021A $15.99"
 
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Styler,

If you are going track-only, you may as well go all the way and install a bellypan in case you want to race. That is what I did, and it required the removal of the radiator fan. Wilkson also removed his, and it really shouldn't be an issue for a track only. It's in this huge plastic housing that is attached to the servo motor for the exhaust butterfly as well. Felt good pulling all that crap out from under there!

I'm also curious why Chris recommends you keep it?

For convenience without a kickstand, get a Baxley wheel chock to ride into at the pits! I thought I would really miss the kickstand but it hasn't been a big deal at all. I'm super curious how much weight I've saved doing the race conversion, my "stock parts crap pile" is getting pretty large and some of this .... is surprisingly heavy.
 
Styler,

If you are going track-only, you may as well go all the way and install a bellypan in case you want to race. That is what I did, and it required the removal of the radiator fan. Wilkson also removed his, and it really shouldn't be an issue for a track only. It's in this huge plastic housing that is attached to the servo motor for the exhaust butterfly as well. Felt good pulling all that crap out from under there!

I'm also curious why Chris recommends you keep it?

For convenience without a kickstand, get a Baxley wheel chock to ride into at the pits! I thought I would really miss the kickstand but it hasn't been a big deal at all. I'm super curious how much weight I've saved doing the race conversion, my "stock parts crap pile" is getting pretty large and some of this .... is surprisingly heavy.

Interesting; yes, I did order the belly pan (Armour Bodies); however, there was never any mention of needing to eliminate the cooling fan. You see; I just keep learning!

Wheel chock; indeed, that is a good idea. I am starting to be swayed...

Ya; no doubt the bike is getting lighter. For example: I picked up the rear subframe with body panels, license pate holder and tail lights attached and that thing ways a ton (minor exaggeration). The new subframe weighs 2.9 pounds and I can't imagine the Armour Bodies superbike tail section weighs all that much.
 
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The racing tails are virtually weightless, there's nothing in there. Just a shell that bolts onto the subframe!

When you pull the headlight out, don't forget about the air temp sensor. It's attached to the headlight housing and measures the temps of the air going into the airbox. I just zip tied it up with everything else (it's just a black plug looking thing) until I realized what it was. You'll need to drill a hole for it so that it sticks down through the airtube that comes with the race fairings.

Granted, my bike is a 1299 with the LED headlights but yours likely is very similar. Most of the stuff I've found online (and parts I've ordered) all relate to the 1199 anyway. I even put an 1199 fairing stay and 1199 fairings on my bike.
 
When you pull the headlight out, don't forget about the air temp sensor. It's attached to the headlight housing and measures the temps of the air going into the airbox. I just zip tied it up with everything else (it's just a black plug looking thing) until I realized what it was. You'll need to drill a hole for it so that it sticks down through the airtube that comes with the race fairings.

Thanks for this. I have not tackled the front end as yet other than taking off the fairing. I'll get to that in a week or so when the fairing stay comes in.
I am sure I will have many questions for the forum.
During the interim, I'd value a picture of what you are talking about if and when you have the time.
 
As noted above, I purchased some Titanium Caliper bolts for the1199. Well, they came today.
They are very light weight, hollow and pre-drilled for safety wiring (Item# TIT6QA2973). :)

They are beautifully made and extremely light weight; but, unfortunately, and contrary to the guidance provided on Podium Racing's web site, these bolts do not frigging fit the Panigale; they are too long. :mad:
(See pic, OEM on the bottom, Item TIT6QA2973 on the top)

Anyway, I'll see if Podium Racing has the proper hardware and If so, I'll exchange for bolts of the proper length (approximately 2-and-3/8ths inches, see Pic) and let you know the item number.

Styler buy some from Proti

great customer service and he will send you the correct ones.

Great write up on all your track preparation. Enjoyed reading it. Thanks
 
Definitely don't forget the AIT. I did for a while and caused some closed loop issues last season.

I never drilled it into the funnel like others. Works just the same dangling.

Have fun out there.
 
Why is the radiator fan so important on a track-only bike?

I haven't yet tested the racing mod radiator I got installed over the winter but was constantly above 100 cels with the stock radiator and fan riding lightly... And had the fan removed from all my previous trackbikes with no issues as a consequence.

Because there are many times when you are sitting on hot pit (or on the grid when talking about racing) for an extended period of time. You cant always leave your pit and make it on to the track, then make it all the way back to your pit, without stopping for an extended period of time.

The miniscule amount of weight you will save my removing the fan is nothing compared to the stress and risk of overheating your bike.

With that being said, I guess it also depends on where you are. I race in the Southeastern US and regularly see ambient temps of 95-100deg F and track temps of 130deg F (approximately 37deg and 54deg Cel respectively). The bike will overheat in a matter of a few minutes without a fan. Few racers down here remove the fans.
 
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I understand the risk; it's just that the side-stand is just so damn convenient. What I've done thus far is use the side stand when the bike is in the garage and moving it to and from the track, but zip-tie it up during the track day.

Nonetheless, I will consider your advice. Thanks.

I thought the same thing in the beginning. But as of now I haven't had a bike with a side stand in almost 8 years, and I don't miss it at all. You get used to not having it, even at home.

Racing orgs require it to be removed, so I didn't have a choice. But I got used to it nonetheless.
 
Because there are many times when you are sitting on hot pit (or on the grid when talking about racing) for an extended period of time. You cant always leave your pit and make it on to the track, then make it all the way back to your pit, without stopping for an extended period of time.

The miniscule amount of weight you will save my removing the fan is nothing compared to the stress and risk of overheating your bike.

With that being said, I guess it also depends on where you are. I race in the Southeastern US and regularly see ambient temps of 95-100deg F and track temps of 130deg F (approximately 37deg and 54deg Cel respectively). The bike will overheat in a matter of a few minutes without a fan. Few racers down here remove the fans.

Were they able to leave your radiator fan on and still fit the bellypan, did you notice when you had the bike?

I was not able to keep mine, and everyone else I've encountered has had to remove theirs as well to fit the pan. It's all pretty tight down there on the pani..
 
Were they able to leave your radiator fan on and still fit the bellypan, did you notice when you had the bike?

I was not able to keep mine, and everyone else I've encountered has had to remove theirs as well to fit the pan. It's all pretty tight down there on the pani..

I never actually laid my eyes on it, but I do remember them specifically saying they were going to leave the fan intact because of the aforementioned reasons.

And I also know they had to do a lot of "engineering" while installing the bodywork because they also installed Cox radiator guards. They had to have some things (brackets, stays etc) altered or fabricated at the machine shop a few times during the process.

So I am pretty confident they made it all work and kept the fan, but I couldn't tell you how they did it.
 
I will try to remember to get some pictures at Talladega of how they did it. I wont see the bike before the first race, Livengood will bring the bikes with him and meet me at the track.

I will only have 2x 10min practice sessions to get used to the bike in general. Forget being able to work on setup or play with the electronics. It should be interesting.
 
The miniscule amount of weight you will save my removing the fan is nothing compared to the stress and risk of overheating your bike.

Point accepted. However, removing the fan serves the purpose of getting lower temperatures while riding with stock radiator, by allowing for a better airflow. So it is not a weight issue. And I admit, I time starting up the engine so that I will not have to sit on a volcano...
 
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