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Where we race, bikes WILL overheat without the fan (it has happened to me). Sometimes people drag ... on their warm-up lap and we sit on the grid too long, or they are delayed getting us out for our warm-up lap.

I have tried to get away without the fan in the past and it just isn't ideal. It sucks sitting there on the grid, waving your hands trying to get them to hurry up, and seeing the red light come on the dash.
 
I was going to remove my fan to fit the belly pan. I ride in upstate NY at Nyst. Any thoughts? I've had to spread the volcanic ash of whatever it's called to soak up oil after someone's bike puked. I don't want to be the guy to hold up everyone else from burning laps.
 
wfoduck said:
I was going to remove my fan to fit the belly pan. I ride in upstate NY at Nyst. Any thoughts? I've had to spread the volcanic ash of whatever it's called to soak up oil after someone's bike puked. I don't want to be the guy to hold up everyone else from burning laps.
Click to expand...

Upstate NY is about same latitude as Hungary, so climate should be similar (in fact, NY is very much like Budapest as far as temperatures go in my experience). The only time I have ever missed a fan was indeed when having to wait on grid or at pit exit. I just shot engine down as soon as I suspect longer wait. I am not removing starter.;)
 
Great input everyone.
I live in the US South and experience high-humidity days with ambient air temperature greater than 100 degrees Fahrenheit during the summer track season.
Thus, I will do everything I can to keep the fan; but we shall see if I can figure this out.
Bottom line, if anybody has pics or other insight regarding how to accomplish having a bellypan and and fan, please post. Knowledge is power and right now, I feel meek! (But better than before I started this thread.) One step at a time.
More to come when the bodywork arrives and I try to figure this out in the real (physical) world of hardware, fiberglass, tools and grease.
 
I know it is a few weeks off, but try to remember to bump this thread (or send me a PM) sometime around Feb. 19th or so. I will see the bike that weekend when I get to the track and I will try to remember to take some pictures (if you haven't gotten it sorted by then).
 
Yeah, how in the hell did you keep the fan on the Panigale and install the oil retention pan? Chaotic
 
I dunno Leon, remind me at Tally. :D

I use water and water wetter. Engine ice is against the rules because it is glycol based.
 
wfoduck said:
Are you guys using distilled water or are you allowed to use engine ice?
Click to expand...

I use distilled water + "Water Wetter" mixed according to the proportions specified on the WW bottle. It is an accepted coolant at tracks and with racing organizations.
My understanding is that "Engine Ice" is falling out of favour with some tracks and organizations.

EDIT: +1 on Chaotic's comment.
Here is an example of the dangers of glycol-based coolants (very slippery): http://ducati1299.com/mechanical-technical/22156-coolant-dump.html
 
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Hollow, Titanium Caliper Bolts

The replacement bolts form Podium Racing came yesterday and I mounted them today. VERY light; I could not believe how heavy the OEM bolts felt in my hand as a comparison.
Not that I will even notice the difference in weight on the bike; but having properly drilled caliper bolts will make rewiring much easier at the track in sub-optimal lighting conditions every time I need to mount a new slick. (Especially when you consider one of the holes in my old bolts was blind, blocked by a drill bit that broke off in there.)
The first pic highlights the hollow center of the bolt (40% lighter than regular titanium bolts) and the last pic highlights the difference in finish and the head.
 

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METTEC is also a good source for Titanium bolts/items.
 

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Sub-frame

The sub-frame arrived today after being powder-coated.
Nice!
It's hard to understand how light 2.9 lbs is until you hold it in your hands.
It is going to be hard to work the rest of the day, knowing that I can bolt this puppy onto the engine tonight!
 

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Sub-frame: Tips on removing black box?

I had to work late and by the time I was done and eaten dinner I had no ability to focus on details. So, I’ll get to it this weekend.
I’ll post some pics and anything I have learned along the way after its bolted on and the wiring loom and black box is secured in the tail. During the interim, here are a couple of pics of it in place, but unsecured to the bike.

Meanwhile, if anybody has any tips regarding pulling the black box out of the tail section, please let me know. I have disconnected the rear part of the wiring loom with the black box from the main part of the wiring loom. I assume next step is to pop the tail cowling/passenger seat and disconnect the wires going to the rear lights; but I won't be sure until I explore. For those who have done this before, please chime in.
Cheers.
 

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Styler said:
The replacement bolts form Podium Racing came yesterday and I mounted them today. VERY light; I could not believe how heavy the OEM bolts felt in my hand as a comparison.
Not that I will even notice the difference in weight on the bike; but having properly drilled caliper bolts will make rewiring much easier at the track in sub-optimal lighting conditions every time I need to mount a new slick. (Especially when you consider one of the holes in my old bolts was blind, blocked by a drill bit that broke off in there.)
The first pic highlights the hollow center of the bolt (40% lighter than regular titanium bolts) and the last pic highlights the difference in finish and the head.
Click to expand...

Good luck on the hollow ti bolts, we use ti hardware on our 410,BUT never hollow, we learned that lesson many years ago.
 
Woodcraft bar-ends and lever guards

The woodcraft bar ends and lever guards arrived on Friday. I installed tem on Saturday, taking about 30 minutes to pull the OEM bar-ends, fit the Woodcraft product hand tight, adjust and then apply blue thread-lock to all bolts and torque into place.

I am very impressed with the durable design and purpose-built construction of the products, a billet aluminum base with replaceable nylon components that may be purchased individually if one happens to crash.
 

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Installation of the Tightails Sub-frame

I must say, the longest part of the entire process was disassembling the OEM tail-section, determining which part of the wiring needed to be pulled and extracting the black-box out of the tail without damaging the heat shielding glued to the bottom of it.

Job done, the tail section will be about 8-to-9 lbs lighter than OEM, depending on the weight of the Amour Bodies Superbike Tailsection when it is painted and the foam seat glued in place. Of course, not all of this is due to the 2.9 lb sub-frame. After all, there are significantly less parts after one deletes the tail lights, extra plastic, rubber and the OEM plastics.

I am very impressed with the sub-frame's fit, welds and the attention to detail that went into its design and construction and particularly with how well the black-box fits into position and is secured.

I am so pleased with the black powder coating I may have to have the fairing stay powder-coated as well when it shows up later this week.

I'll try to take some better pics when the background is not so cluttered.

EDIT: Oh, and the observant among you might notice that the Sato Race Hooks bolt right on, giving the all important tie-down points when transporting the bike.
 

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centeroff said:
Good luck on the hollow ti bolts, we use ti hardware on our 410,BUT never hollow, we learned that lesson many years ago.
Click to expand...

Wouldn't say "never". It depends on the torque. E.g. the two excenter clamp bolts, no problems... Or the horn mounting screw :)

I prefer partially hollow, not completely drilled thru. This prevents water getting into the inner side of the threads.
 
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