The Conversion and the Converted

Styler said:

Where exactly is that sensor? Pics please

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Start tracing the wire from the rear brake caliper on the right side of the bike. Its right there. I'll get a pic this weekend if the ECU is back and I take it to the dealer.

Sorry I misread your question. You should be all set whith that you removed.

Race rear-sets; disconnecting rear brake wiring

By removing the entire cable from the brake switch to the plug on the right side panel one eliminates the issue of the error and engine light on the dash as a result of the rear brake because there is no signal coming from a brake switch when one depresses the rear brake. That said, the error and engine light come on as soon as one applies the front brake.
Is there something else I have to do to eliminate the signal coming from the front brake switch? That would be logical.

Woodcraft Rear-set Foot Controls, GP-Shift

I installed these today. It took some time and plenty of thread-lock; however, the job is straight-forward and mostly done (I think).
I do have to fine-tune the toe piece on the shift lever once I get the tail-section body work and foam seat pad on, and I appear to have one major issue that I need some help with.

It appears that I can shift from neutral to 6th and back to neutral; but, for the life of me, I cannot shift from neutral into first. The bike is on a rear paddock stand and I rotate the wheel to free up the transmission as I shift through the gears; however, this has no effect on my efforts to shift into first.

I checked with woodcraft without solution; however, Waylon was patient and helpful.

1. I have the correct kit;
2. It appears to be assembled correctly; and,
3. The shift rod and the shift lever are at a 90 degree angle as per instructions.

Any ideas?

EDIT: All I had to do was lengthen the shift rod mechanism. I had it set up for the same length as OEM; however, it needed to be a little longer for the GP shift. Job done.

Styler said:

By removing the entire cable from the brake switch to the plug on the right side panel one eliminates the issue of the error and engine light on the dash as a result of the rear brake because there is no signal coming from a brake switch when one depresses the rear brake. That said, the error and engine light come on as soon as one applies the front brake.
Is there something else I have to do to eliminate the signal coming from the front brake switch? That would be logical.

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Just unplug one of the wires from the switch.

Finishing the brake light wiring.

Before I started with the removal of the charcoal canister and radiator fan, I wanted to address the error and engine light I was getting when I used the front brake.
After pulling the tail lights, shrink wrapping their connector plug on the main wiring loom (post #72, previous page) and removing the OEM foot controls along with the rear brake switch (post #84, first pic) and all of the wiring to the side panel, the next step was to:

1. Seal off the plug that connected it to the main wiring loom with some heat shrink wrap (first pic); and,
2. Disconnect one of the wires running from the front brake sensor where it connect to the wiring loom(second pic, before applying heat shrink wrap), thereby eliminating any signal to the ecu from the front brake switch and thus the error code.

Thanks for the direction guys. Now, no error code or engine light when the front brake is applied! Perfect.

Removal of Charcoal Canister

After determining that my shop/man-cave would not fill with fumes after removing the charcoal canister, I followed Antihero’s instructions for its removal: http://ducati1299.com/guides/12972-how-charcoal-canister-removal.html (Thanks Dennis).

Before starting the job, I picked up some vacuum caps (first pic), fuel line and plastic hose connectors (second pic) at the local auto parts store.

Pulling the charcoal canister off and its mounting frame was relatively easy, with the exception of rounding one the three monkey metal Allen head bolts of the OEM fasteners attaching the plastic canister tray to the engine. I sealed up the canister in a plastic bag for safe keeping, preventing any fumes being released into whatever place this will end up being stored (third pic).

Next up was to seal the vacuum hose with one of the caps. Not that it really is needed, I took the extra step of using safety wire to ensure the cap stayed in place. I then used the white plastic hose connector to lengthen the overflow hose from the tank, making sure that it is long enough to dump any fuel away from the header pipes (fourth and fifth pics). You will notice that the hose is zip-tied to the other breather hose that emptied into the black plastic shroud housing the radiator fan (which is pulled away from the shroud in the pic, prior to pulling the radiator fan).

Removal of the Radiator Fan and Shroud

There are several CMRA sanctioned track-day events at my local track this summer and their regulations are a little stiffer then the regular track-day events; such that if one wants to run in the expert track-day session then a catch pan is required. So… since I would like to try the expert or “race” class after I get used to the GP-shift pattern and every other new part of the track bike, I have to install the optional belly pan with the track body work, which means pulling the radiator fan.

First step is to unbolt the plastic shroud that holds the radiator fan in place. There are three Allen head bolts holding the front of the plastic shroud to the lower radiator; one at the top of each side of the radiator and one at the bottom of the radiator. There is supposed to be another at the back of the plastic shroud, near the oil drain plug; but mine had vibrated loose somewhere along the way.
Anyway, removal of the lower and upper right bolts are straight forward; however, removal of the upper left bolt requires removal of the plastic battery tray, which then allows one to get an Allen key or socket in there. The plastic radiator fan shroud pops right out.

After pulling the radiator fan and its plastic shroud, be sure to reinstall the upper two bolts, which are required to keep the radiator secure. And, be sure to use the black metal washer and steel washer/spacer that come out of each of the top two mounting points on the plastic shroud. Otherwise, the bolts will be too long to secure the radiator properly.

Unplug the wire supplying power to the fan at the connector where it meets the bike and use the fan plug that comes in the “Racing Electrical Connector Kit,” part number 96580011A. (See the first pic in post #75, previous page; it’s the oval black plug with the yellow rubber seal in the middle.) Once the plug is installed, everything is tucked away on a plastic hook of sorts. (See first pic, below.)
With the radiator shroud pulled the bike is visually much lighter (see last two pics); but truth be told, I think that between the removal of the charcoal canister and the radiator fan and shroud, perhaps two pounds have been shed. It could be more; but I do not have an accurate enough scale to be sure.

If we go with 2lbs, then my estimate is that the bike will be coming in around 378 lbs with two US gallons of fuel.

Next up, I should have my Lithium battery delivered some time next week when I am away on business, so next weekend is the time to install that and drop another 3.5 lbs or so.

Have you installed the smog block off plates? I was wondering as to how you plugged the hoses or inlets in the air box? My plates are on but I haven't got to the last step yet.

wfoduck said:

Have you installed the smog block off plates? I was wondering as to how you plugged the hoses or inlets in the air box? My plates are on but I haven't got to the last step yet.

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Not to hijack the thread. I installed block offs. I capped the solenoid with 1/2" rubber caps and left it plugged up and in its position to keep from having a CEL. Got caps off eBay for little of nothing. Hope this helps

wfoduck said:

Have you installed the smog block off plates? I was wondering as to how you plugged the hoses or inlets in the air box? My plates are on but I haven't got to the last step yet.

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No; I am not sure they are that relevant. The stated benefit is that they "eliminate back firing on deceleration and enable accurate air-to-fuel ratio measurement on a dyno or when using a wide band o2 sensor." That, and the fact that they will void and fuel-related warranty issues concerns me a little. If there are other benefits, please let me know; but I do not think that it is a mod that I am that interested in at the moment.

Now, if they actually help the bike run cooler, then that is something I will look into. See: http://ducati1299.com/ducati-1199/2315-smog-block-off-plates.html

Progress - battery and tail section.

I installed the Shorai lithium battery this weekend. It is hard to believe the difference in size and weight. The estimated 3/5 lbs in weight savings is even more impressive when it is so concentrated on a single, relatively small item.
Anyway, it comes charged with all of the closed cell foam you will need (and more) to fill the void left in the battery case. I was able to use all of the OEM battery connectors (without an extension) and secured the battery with the the OEM batter cover. (See first pic.)

I purchased it for $122 shipped from eBay; however, Jarel has since resurrected the group buy and so I would recommend purchasing it through him (Ducati Omaha). See: http://ducati1299.com/ducati-omaha/24371-shorai-battery-group-buy-2-a.html

Also, some of my bodywork was delivered last week, with the rest having shipped on Friday. I received the tail section, front fairing and air intakes. Still to come is the belly pan, race windscreen and side panels. The quality of the paint work makes my OEM paint look old and tired, which it probably is after 13,000 miles; however, it never was very good.

I started work on mounting the tail section. Below is an early pic in the process, with more to come this week.

Mounting the Tail Section

At first I thought the Tighttails sub-frame was 8 inches too short, which was out of character given how well the sub-frame mounted to the engine and the precise housing constructed to hold the black box. However, I then realized that I needed to bolt the plastic, triangular tray from the OEM sub-frame to the Tighttails sub-frame to provide the remaining structure for the tail section.

I now have the alignment down after drilling three holes - the two at the top-rear of the tail section and the one at the top-front, immediately behind the gas tank. The next step is to tighten up the two parts of the aluminum sub-frame and the OEM plastic tray that bolts to it. (I left them less-than finger tight to get everything in position.)

Once the sub-frame and platform are bolted tight. I'll begin drilling holes for the other four mounting points connecting the removable bottom of the tail section to the sub-frame.

I'll take some more pictures as I progress to illustrate the process and the use of fasteners, plastic washers and rubber spacers.

Hey Styler

May I ask how you'd install the P16 Air filter?
Did you just push in the Carbon Frame into the airbox, without any additional clamps or holding brackets? Mine fits perfect but it takes almost no force the take it out of it's position again. I am thinking about some sort of securing mechanism. I really don't want to ride on bumpy roads without the air filter properly in place.

Gecko said:

Hey Styler

May I ask how you'd install the P16 Air filter?
Did you just push in the Carbon Frame into the airbox, without any additional clamps or holding brackets? Mine fits perfect but it takes almost no force the take it out of it's position again. I am thinking about some sort of securing mechanism. I really don't want to ride on bumpy roads without the air filter properly in place.

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I purchased the "Factory Racing" air filter, which has the P16 mesh, but with the rubber surround/housing. It fits in perfectly and the rubber housing makes a tight seal. In short, I do not have any worry of it moving out of place.

Not knowing exactly how your filter fits and moves around, the only thing I can think of off-hand is using some type of silicone to make a tighter, compressible seal. Perhaps aquarium silicone, which is not caustic and will not effect any finished surfaces/metal.

Styler said:

I purchased the "Factory Racing" air filter, which has the P16 mesh, but with the rubber surround/housing. It fits in perfectly and the rubber housing makes a tight seal. In short, I do not have any worry of it moving out of place.

Not knowing exactly how your filter fits and moves around, the only thing I can think of off-hand is using some type of silicone to make a tighter, compressible seal.

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Man, you did the right thing!
There is no seal at all on the WSBK CF P16, just two CF tabs to push the filter into the airbox. Not a really secure solution.

Gecko said:

Man, you did the right thing!
There is no seal at all on the WSBK CF P16, just two CF tabs to push the filter into the airbox. Not a really secure solution.

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Perhaps Leon can chime in; he just moved to the P16 Race filter like yours because it has twice the surface area (a big benefit when paired with tuning). He may have an answer or suggestion. Good luck.

Mounting the Tail Section (continued...)

As promised in post 93, above, here are a few more pics of the stuff required to mount the tail section.

First, one must remove the plastic, triangular tray from the OEM sub-frame and bolt it onto the Tightttails subframe using the three large OEM bolts. (See first pic.) As noted previously, this provides the mounting points for the two bolts on the top of the tail section. As you can see, I purchased some plastic washers from an automotive parts store and taped them to the platform to keep them in place when I put the tail section on and fasten it.

I also purchased some rubber spacers from the local auto parts store to cushion the point where all of the weight in the seat rests on the sub-frame. See photo two, and the last photo in the series. This should help prevent fractures in the supporting fiberglass structure under the seat.

The other neat thing I found at the automotive store are these little bolt caps. (See pic 3). They are intended for covering license plate bolts and come in white and black. The clear plastic washer has a lip on it, which secures the white cap. (See pic 4.) You will need three of these for the three bolts on the top of the tail section. One for the bolt at the base of the tank and two for the bolts at the top rear, which secure the tail to the triangular tray from the OEM sub-frame I spoke of earlier. You will need to purchase some M5 bolts with a wide, flat Allen head. They screw directly into the plastic tray; no nuts are required.

I discovered that there are four mounting points where the bottom tray of the tail section mount to the Tighttails sub-frame. Here, I used the Woodcraft clips. The rear two (see last picture) simply clip over the aluminum tab; however, the front two require some changes to work. The tab is to short/curved for the length of the clip and so they cannot just slide on like the rear clips. You must disasemble the clip, removing the piece that sandwiches the metal tab. Then, mount the clip on top of the tab sideways and epoxy it to the sub-frame.

My last step is to secure the perimeter of the under tray of the tail section to the top of the tail section. This will increase the structural integrity for the entire tail unit. I seek some guidance on this step.
What are most people are using to connect the two pieces of the tail section together?
Specifically, the type of fasteners around perimeter of the bottom plate. It looks like the clip fasteners would be ideal, except for the cost because it would require purchasing another 9 clips. (And, it might also be overkill.)

Things are starting to come together; however, there is still a pile of work to do.

Pic of the front fairing stay with Armour Bodies air intake.
Looks Ominous.

Pic 2: I decided to use plastic rivets around the perimeter of the tail section's under-tray. Unfortunately, my rivet gun worked on one rivet and then refused to pull the others tight. Can't figure out why; it still works on metal rivets other than it is just not grabbing the plastic pin well enough to pull it tight.

Pic 3: I still cannot figure out what to do about the front fairing and its poor fit at the mounting points connecting it to the fairing stay.
The indentations prevent the windscreen from mounting flush to the fairing. I either have to grind off the windscreen's tabs or the bulbous protrusions on the inside of the fairing. But if I grind the fairing, I may not be able to bolt it securely to the fairing stay.
Looks like the windscreen may get the dremmel; however, I'll mount the fairing first to ensure the fit of it to the mounting points on the fairing stay.

Only 6 more days before I load her onto a trailer and head to the track!