Tracking the Panigale!

Just to confirm 29 in front and 26 rear for the pani? on track

Chris

HI Luis,

Here's a vid on pulling the fairings (you'll need to pull both sides), drain on left side low radiator,

http://www.1199forums.com/forum/11-...y/459-headlight-fairing-removal.html#post3172

Filler on the right side. So when you drain all your coolant out (don't forget the overflow tank) you'll add the water and water wetter (I think about 4 oz to the gallon, use distilled water as you don't want any mineral deposits building up). Do all this with the bike cold.

When refilling, fill thru the radiator cap. Take your time and you'll have bubbling as the air goes out. Once you get it to the proper level, gently squeeze all the big radiator hoses, this will trigger more bubbling out the rad cap opening, this is to get rid of as much air as possible.

Haven't looked at my rad yet, but you should have a bleed screw on the left top side of the radiator, open this to get any other air out and then close.

Don't forget to fill coolant overflow tank, fire the bike up watch the level thru the radiator cap (ie leave the cap off) keep an eye on the temp. YOu'll probably have to top off the coolant level a bit, you also may have a bit of bubbling, that's any trapped air escaping the system.. Cap back on ride it around and watch the temp.

Going forward I'd highly recommend getting one of these,

can do the whole thing in about 20 minutes:

Amazon.com: UVIEW 550500 AirLift II Economy Cooling System Refiller: Automotive

I don't like to leave water in the rad after a track day, so I'll drain and put coolant back in as I've my doubts about the anti-corrosion protection of water wetter.

lsberrios1 said:

So ive decided to track the Panigale this coming sunday at Barber motorsports. I am required to change the coolant for distiled water or water wetter. Anybody done this before? I havent looked into it but just wondering, how much time does it take to do such thing.

I will be taking the mirrors off and taping all the lights etc. I remember changing the coolant in my 848 but dont remember the details exactly and if I had to pull out all the fairings.

Click to expand...

zvez said:

HI Luis,

Here's a vid on pulling the fairings (you'll need to pull both sides), drain on left side low radiator,

Headlight Fairing Removal

Filler on the right side. So when you drain all your coolant out (don't forget the overflow tank) you'll add the water and water wetter (I think about 4 oz to the gallon, use distilled water as you don't want any mineral deposits building up). Do all this with the bike cold.

When refilling, fill thru the radiator cap. Take your time and you'll have bubbling as the air goes out. Once you get it to the proper level, gently squeeze all the big radiator hoses, this will trigger more bubbling out the rad cap opening, this is to get rid of as much air as possible.

Haven't looked at my rad yet, but you should have a bleed screw on the left top side of the radiator, open this to get any other air out and then close.

Don't forget to fill coolant overflow tank, fire the bike up watch the level thru the radiator cap (ie leave the cap off) keep an eye on the temp. YOu'll probably have to top off the coolant level a bit, you also may have a bit of bubbling, that's any trapped air escaping the system.. Cap back on ride it around and watch the temp.

Going forward I'd highly recommend getting one of these,

can do the whole thing in about 20 minutes:

Amazon.com: UVIEW 550500 AirLift II Economy Cooling System Refiller: Automotive

I don't like to leave water in the rad after a track day, so I'll drain and put coolant back in as I've my doubts about the anti-corrosion protection of water wetter.

Click to expand...

You are a life saver Chris. Thanks so much. I will try this out hopefully tomorrow night. Need to get the water wetter though. might look for it tonight.

CHarles foxtrot said:

Sharkskinz told me they are at least two weeks from having a marketable glass product. It is apparently a pretty complex fairing to reproduce.

Can anyone recommend tire pressures? The official Pirelli track tire pressure sheet does not yet list the 200 series tire.

Click to expand...

Sharkskinz now lists glass for the Panigale.

Got my ready for tomorrow's track day at Barber.

It is a pain to change the coolant, you have to remove the front fairing as well as the side fairings lots of tabls and rubber plugs to keep track of. Once the fairings off very straightforward.

I drained the system and then used the vacuum bleeder I've listed elsewhere which reduces the risk of getting air trapped which is always dodgy on a two radiator system.

Unlike my streetfighter I didn't see a bleeder port to get out excess air. Not really needed. Easiest way to insure the air is out is to top up the system, leave the radiator cap off, gently squeeze the radiator hoses, two you can get to, one on the left and one on the right, as you squeeze you'll note air bubbles coming out the radiator filler port (note this is the main radiator, NOT the overflow tank). Keep doing this and topping up as you go. Once it doesn't seem to be going down anymore, put the cap back on, top up the overflow tank, that cap back on. Then fire up the bike, run it for a few minutes and watch the guage, if you've got air trapped it'll go up very quickly. If this is the case shut the bike down, let it cool and then carefully open the radiator cap and repeat the squeezing, adding coolant process. FYI, the coolant circuit is approx 2.3 liters or.61 gallons.

Button everything up, put all the bodywork back on, tape lights and you're ready to go.

FYI, I highly recommend getting a can of spray silicone lube, spry the rubber female fittings that enable the male tabs to slip in easier.

Chris

zvez said:

FYI, I highly recommend getting a can of spray silicone lube, spry the rubber female fittings that enable the male tabs to slip in easier.

Chris

Click to expand...

+1

zvez said:

Got my ready for tomorrow's track day at Barber.

It is a pain to change the coolant, you have to remove the front fairing as well as the side fairings lots of tabls and rubber plugs to keep track of. Once the fairings off very straightforward.

I drained the system and then used the vacuum bleeder I've listed elsewhere which reduces the risk of getting air trapped which is always dodgy on a two radiator system.

Unlike my streetfighter I didn't see a bleeder port to get out excess air. Not really needed. Easiest way to insure the air is out is to top up the system, leave the radiator cap off, gently squeeze the radiator hoses, two you can get to, one on the left and one on the right, as you squeeze you'll note air bubbles coming out the radiator filler port (note this is the main radiator, NOT the overflow tank). Keep doing this and topping up as you go. Once it doesn't seem to be going down anymore, put the cap back on, top up the overflow tank, that cap back on. Then fire up the bike, run it for a few minutes and watch the guage, if you've got air trapped it'll go up very quickly. If this is the case shut the bike down, let it cool and then carefully open the radiator cap and repeat the squeezing, adding coolant process. FYI, the coolant circuit is approx 2.3 liters or.61 gallons.

Button everything up, put all the bodywork back on, tape lights and you're ready to go.

FYI, I highly recommend getting a can of spray silicone lube, spry the rubber female fittings that enable the male tabs to slip in easier.

Chris

Click to expand...

I flushed my cooling system w/o removing the front fairing, but spent quite a bit of time with a garden hose during the flushing stage and a lot of time carefully pouring in the water wetter mixture.

Each time I had to pull the fairing away for access, and space was very limited.

But it worked.

Regarding the headlights: pulling the fuse for the lights on the base 1199 also kills the dash.

But I was able to simply unplug the low beam plugs for the headlights so I would not bake on the tape which we have to place over the headlight lens.

By the way the stock tires worked very well. I use warmers and I have to say that I think I only had one moment during the entire track day related to tires and that was more my clumsiness rather than a problem with the Pirellis. No more chicken strips!

zvez said:

Just to confirm 29 in front and 26 rear for the pani? on track

Chris

Click to expand...

here is my setup at the moment:



Track temp 117
ambient temp 75

Running OEM Supercorsa SP ( yeah great tires, but they are what they are )

Cold tire pressure: 23 Rear; 27 Front
HOT tire presure: 26.5 Rear; 31 Front
Tire temp: 169f Rear; 141 Front ( going slow ) not stuffing the front in.

Sag: 25 Rear; 40 Front

Damping:
FC 10; FR 17; RC 16; RR 17

DTC 3; EBC 2; ABS 2

CHarles foxtrot said:

Regarding the headlights: pulling the fuse for the lights on the base 1199 also kills the dash.

Click to expand...

Not on my bike, it must be special!

Seriously, I don't know who started this rumor but its not true. This is what i do and I have a dash!

thanks for the info dr. J!

doctorj said:

here is my setup at the moment:



Track temp 117
ambient temp 75

Running OEM Supercorsa SP ( yeah great tires, but they are what they are )

Cold tire pressure: 23 Rear; 27 Front
HOT tire presure: 26.5 Rear; 31 Front
Tire temp: 169f Rear; 141 Front ( going slow ) not stuffing the front in.

Sag: 25 Rear; 40 Front

Damping:
FC 10; FR 17; RC 16; RR 17

DTC 3; EBC 2; ABS 2

Click to expand...

doctorj said:

Not on my bike, it must be special!

Seriously, I don't know who started this rumor but its not true. This is what i do and I have a dash!

Click to expand...

My BAD!! I just realized you guys are talking about a BASE.. Sorry. Not true on the S

doctorj said:

My BAD!! I just realized you guys are talking about a BASE.. Sorry. Not true on the S

Click to expand...

It was me who started the rumor. Apologies accepted.

Dr.J, do you think that the sag #s will translate from your S to the base?

Your tire pressure recommendation seems right on the mark. I ran 32F and 28R hot (45 minute heat soak w/ warmers) on a short, slow track with pavement that was not very abrasive at all. I was going to drop it down a bit before fatigue set in and I called it a day.

And my impression is that the stock tires work very well for trackdays. I'm not going to think about swapping them out for DOT race tires until the stocks are shot.

CHarles foxtrot said:

It was me who started the rumor. Apologies accepted.

Dr.J, do you think that the sag #s will translate from your S to the base?

Your tire pressure recommendation seems right on the mark. I ran 32F and 28R hot (45 minute heat soak w/ warmers) on a short, slow track with pavement that was not very abrasive at all. I was going to drop it down a bit before fatigue set in and I called it a day.

And my impression is that the stock tires work very well for trackdays. I'm not going to think about swapping them out for DOT race tires until the stocks are shot.

Click to expand...

Yes, the SAG will translate perfectly. Both bikes have the same travel.

Just back from a blistering day at barber in B'ham. Ambient temp was 105 so track was 115+ I faded after the first three sessions and called it a day.

THe pani is SUPERB on the track, what a blast to ride and instills confidence even in a mediocre rider like me!!

I do note when the track temp is 115 or so my ass roasts from the pipes.

Absolutely no issues starting this bike, re-starting right after stopping getting on the bike after sitting in the sun for 40 minutes, no issues whatsoever

Thrilled with this bike!!

Was at Thunderhill on an unusually cool day this time of year - 77* day 1, 80* day 2.

Day 1 - I was on the oem supercorsa sp's and ran 26f/23r. Did about 40 laps and tire wear was significant but even. Was very happy with these both in terms of performance and wear.

Day 2 - Ran the supercorsa sc1's 23f/19r. Temps got up later in the day and saw signs of significant wear after about 20 laps. Bumped up pressure in the rear 1psi and made small suspension adjustments. Lap times were decently faster on day 2 and after about 50+ laps the entire left side had significant wear and some slight hot tearing. Got maybe half a day left in the rear before replacement is necessary. Very sticky tire but way too soft IMO for the Pani's hp and torque.

Well! So tracked the Panigale last Sunday at Barber Motorsports. First off I gotta say the track is magnificent. Love the elevation changes, the tight decreasing radius turns, the long swepers. Overall the track is wonderful even though it could have a little longer straightaway for the Panis HP.

Now the bike. I used it in sport mode, with no suspension settings whatsoever. Tire pressure was 29F 27R. Even though I am not expert I have to say the motorcylce is a charm. It never hesitated to go off the track. The traction control, set up to 6 worked perfect and held the bike to the line everytime, no matter how tigh it was. The power is really good. I could haul up to 130mph in 2 of the straights using the quickshifter which works wonders. The front end would tend to feel light up to 100mph under hard gas until the TC kicked in to lower it down. Brakes are good and easy to modulate, never thought to be actually overbraking it. Due to the low weight transition into turns it is effortless. I am very pleased with the bike and couldnt wish for anything else. It just felt SOOO good coming out of corners and passing brand new R1 and CBR1k with good track out on the straights.

Now to the bad part of the day... The bike decided to die on me after the 4th heat. It was hessitating to start but the starter was turning for a while. It would crank up if I gave a little gas but at the end of the day the starter never pulled in and you could only hear the ignitiong opening. Then the Check Engine light comes up with a big red warning sign that says "ENGINE!". And I thought I blew the crap up to pieces but it cant be since it runs, I only have to jump start it. I am really bummed about this, after a spectacular run she cant do this to me....

Does anybody here know what it could be?

Starter motor? There have been quite a few failures reported, and especially after all the stop/starts at a track day, that could be the culprit.

And I am assuming this is under warranty..

TricoloreSF said:

Was at Thunderhill on an unusually cool day this time of year - 77* day 1, 80* day 2.

Day 1 - I was on the oem supercorsa sp's and ran 26f/23r. Did about 40 laps and tire wear was significant but even. Was very happy with these both in terms of performance and wear.

Day 2 - Ran the supercorsa sc1's 23f/19r. Temps got up later in the day and saw signs of significant wear after about 20 laps. Bumped up pressure in the rear 1psi and made small suspension adjustments. Lap times were decently faster on day 2 and after about 50+ laps the entire left side had significant wear and some slight hot tearing. Got maybe half a day left in the rear before replacement is necessary. Very sticky tire but way too soft IMO for the Pani's hp and torque.

Click to expand...

Those pressures seem very low. Where did you get the idea it run them like that?

The chart is similar to older pressures I've seen from Pirelli: http://ducati1199.com/mechanical-technical/1339-pirelli-supercorsa-tire-pressures.html#post20754

So what is the dealio?

I'm a former Dunlop guy, so these tires are new to me. Also I'm old and easily confused.