V4 Panigale Clutch Fade Problems

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Never liked hand pumping the mighty vac and trying to maintain vacuum at all times. Mighty vac is great for testing vacuum and pressure sensors, just never liked it for bleeding brakes.

These pneumatic bleeders are the sh*t if you have an air compressor.

www.princessauto.com

Pneumatic Brake Bleeder Kit | Princess Auto

Pneumatic Brake Bleeder Kit
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ArcticWhite that’s what they use at the dealerships. I’m going to go this rout, thank you!

Do u use the reservoir filler on our bikes or do you do that by hand with a bottle of DOT4?
 
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I lock it on and let it suck. Then just manually feed fresh fluid into the reservoir.

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk
 
RdashP said:
They've put Motul RBF660 in as clutch fluid.

This type is supposed to be more resistant to the high running temperatures of the V4 engine and the issue that this access heat - although still within design specification according to Bologna(?!) - is being poorly released by the standard V4 fairing being (too?) narrow/tight.
Click to expand...

During our last 4000km/2500miles trip through the Alps, I again needed to remedy the PV4s increasing clutch-fade twice by bleeding the air buildup from the slave-cylinder. Only minor air buildup: half a lever-throw each time.

My wifes M1100evo on the other hand is much worse. That thing eats Dot4 oil for breakfast during that trip: we needed to refill her expansion canister on the Monster its handlebar twice since it was completely empty! There is for sure again a leak in her clutch system. A few years ago we already replaced her master-cylinder. Not sure where the leak is this time...
 
RdashP said:
...These separated tiny gas bubbles - being lighter than fluid - rise to the highest point in the clutch system: around the master cylinder. If master cylinder ...is not able to release these gases properly, over time they form a growing gas bubble within the master cylinder, resulting in progressively worsened clutch-fade"
Click to expand...

*Typo in my old post: replace 3x “master” for ‘slave’. Of course I meant SLAVE-cylinder at clipon here, the highest point in this system, not master-cylinder integrated in engine.
 
First disassemble the slave and get all the gunk out that the air (moisture) created. Next remove the bleeders and double up (fold a piece in half making it skinnier, not shorter) of Teflon tape and wrap it around the threads making sure to leave the first thread, thread and 1/2 naked. Put it back together and bleed it
 
Does anyone know if this continues to be an issue on the 20's? I have a '20 V4 base and have not experienced it yet, but am wondering if this is an "if" or a "when" type scenario...
 
No immediate problems on my 2020 but I am prepared to replace master cylinders, calipers, slave cyl and lines when the time comes
 
I have a 20 and no problems as of yet, not a single sign of fade or any other issue after 2500 miles. I did replace the fluid with Motul brake fluid, not sure if that helped.
 
Anyone have issues with clutch drag? Mine has started doing this and I can't get rid of it drives me crazy. Ive replace the clutch fluid with MOTUL 660 and still drags while in 1st gear when it gets hot in traffic. Bled multiple times, changed fluid, no air bubbles but still an issue. Bike does not have the clutch fade issue, never had that but the clutch drag is my issue on the V4R.
 
Danger Close MFG said:
clutch drag
Click to expand...
Clutch drag became a problem as soon as I switched to the beautiful ducabike pressure plate

sitting still with engine idling I could not go between gears, can’t find neutral. Had to adjust the lever all the way out for maximum throw.

we both went down the “bleed the lines” path but it’s not that. How do you get it to throw an extra 2mm???
The answer is by asking @Don14R for his (in my opinion) genius fix
 
Kevin your clutch started dragging immediately after swapping pressure plates

DangerDude didn’t swap any parts so he has a different problem

Doesn’t have anything to do with plate wear because that effectively lengthens the push rod causing the opposite issue

Hope you can figure out why you lost throw. Would be frustrating to say the least
 
hmm I think yer trick would still work but it might just be bandaid fix instead of getting to the source of the throw issue
 
Exactly

Lengthening the pushrod slightly will get him the disengagement he is seeking now but the increased “installed height” will cause slippage later as the fibers wear

*my guess is he has a bad hub and it is not ramping all the way back down to the no load position

**if what he stated is correct and there really is no air in the hydraulics

If it were me I would take the clutch apart and rule out mechanical problem before messing with the hydraulics anymore
 
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DucatiKev said:
Clutch drag became a problem as soon as I switched to the beautiful ducabike pressure plate

sitting still with engine idling I could not go between gears, can’t find neutral. Had to adjust the lever all the way out for maximum throw.

we both went down the “bleed the lines” path but it’s not that. How do you get it to throw an extra 2mm???
The answer is by asking @Don14R for his (in my opinion) genius fix
Click to expand...
I have about the same problem after installing the pressure plate. I can switch gears easily enough, but neutral is hard to achieve. It is the slightest little click up or down and it takes a few attempts.
 
When I installed my ducabike pressure plate, I noticed a slight drag that required the lever to be adjusted out a bit more which gave a longer throw. I no longer liked the position of the clutch friction point. A good bleeding of the system at both the master and slave brought back all of the clutch range and gave more than enough clutch travel to adjust the friction point with the lever anywhere I wanted it.

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk
 

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