Weight loss on the Panigale

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I'm look for cost efficient ways to drop weight off he bike. Other than myself going on a diet I play soccer 4 times a week there's not much more I can work out lmao
 
No such thing as cost efficient weight loss with the 1199.
Exhaust, wheels, battery are some of the top choices.
 
Yup, on a base, wheels are a good starting point, plus the added benefit of removing unsprung mass.
 
Unsprung weight should be the only place you try losing weight at. You're not going to feel a noticeable difference of losing even 20 pounds of sprung weight but even losing half of that in unsprung weight will change the bikes characteristics completely when it comes to handling. I wouldn't waste my time or money on trying to shave a pound here n there of sprung weight. Invest in a nice set of wheels since the base wheels are heavy and you could easily shed 10+ pounds right there. Best couple grand you could invest in when it comes to weight savings and with the added bonus of makin an already sexy bike even sexier.
 
I'm look for cost efficient ways to drop weight off he bike. Other than myself going on a diet I play soccer 4 times a week there's not much more I can work out lmao

Man, when are you getting your track gear so you can go to the track? You BSing mang.
 
I wanna go man when's the next one. Oh another question...some people say carbon wheels can't last on the streets is this true?
 
I', going on Sunday. Then Feb 1 at Homestead. Evol rolls BSTs on the street. So do a lot of others. Carbon is fine on the street.
 
Unsprung Weight: Cost Efficient
Wheels - BST, Rotobox, Magnesium Wheels
AFAM 520 Light Weigh Conversion Kit
DID EVR3 520 Chain
Rotors - Brembo HPK /ST455 Sicom DMC ( Double Matrix Composite )

Sprung Weight: (Cost is Endless)
Akrapovic Exhaust/Termi Full
Shorai battery
Light weight Rear Sets
Light weight Triple Clamps
Light weight Clipons
Carbon Fiber Fairings
Carbon Fiber Tank
Carbon Fiber Sub Frame
CRG Carbon fiber levers

Remove from Bike: (recommend for track bike)
Charcoal Canister
ABS
LED Lights

Remove from Body: (No Cost to you)
Take a dump before you ride
 
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Plenty of discussions on this already use the search function. You decide

Hit him with the classic "use the search". As much as I dislike repeat threads I hate that statement so much more. You provided information much faster then he was able to find it on his own, sorta the point of a forum.... okay I'm done sorry.
 
Hit him with the classic "use the search". As much as I dislike repeat threads I hate that statement so much more. You provided information much faster then he was able to find it on his own, sorta the point of a forum.... okay I'm done sorry.

I hate that statement too but in this case if I were to give my opinion on carbon fiber wheels it would of start a 100 page heated thread again like the AR Exhaust thread. Reading the previous threads on CF wheels vs magnesium vs aluminum would be more valuable. I just posted 2 vids showing testing that goes on CF wheels.
 
CF wheels will save 3.5 lbs over S wheels. At about $4k, that's over $1000 a pound. It's unsprung weight, so it 'counts' for more than static weight loss, but the benefits of CF or Mag wheels (which will shave off ~2.5 lbs) aren't what they'd be if you made the same upgrade on a bike with really heavy wheels. If you have a base model, the easiest and cheapest way to shave lbs would be to buy S model wheels, which are 5.5 lbs lighter than base.

All the figures I quoted above were provided in other threads, if anyone has any other data, let me know so I can get my spreadsheet right.

My S should be a sub-400 lb bike now with a full tank (provided the S does actually weigh 414lbs. One of the benefits of incremental weight loss is you can do it for $40-$200 at a time. Shedding 20 or even 40 lbs that's distributed over the entirety of the bike isn't going to affect handling adversely unless you have GP-level ESP. Even if it does, a small change in height will easily sort that out.

I've got a full spreadsheet I'm using to track not just weights, but also cost per pound dropped. The results are pretty interesting--such as you'll lose more weight replacing the stock seat cowl with a CF one than you will replacing the gas cap with a lightweight aluminum one. I'll post everything when I have more details--if any other weight weenies have data, please PM me so I can add it to the mix.

So far, the winner for the best gram:dollar ratio? Shorai battery.

Pounds saved: 3.3
Dollars Spent: 189
Dollars spent per pound saved: $57.27
 
+1 on the Shorai.

Not just unsprung weight savings on BST carbon fiber wheels but also weight distribution on the wheel itself.(if that makes sense). It's still unsprung weight but improved unsprung weight because of the design.

"When comparing wheels and weights, it is not always the overall weight that matters, but rather the weight distribution in each particular wheel which affects the performance of the wheel. A lighter rim = better performance. Carbon wheels generally have much lighter rims and carry the bulk of their weight in the hub – and the hub has little effect on the performance of the wheel. Often, unfair comparisons are made between wheels which are completely different e.g. a forged magnesium race wheel versus carbon road wheel, which is designed for road use. Interestingly, even if they did weigh the same, the carbon wheel will still have better performance – remember the lighter rim. In most cases the carbon road wheel is still lighter than a forged race wheel: the carbon part of a BST road front wheel weighs only + 1.450 kg. Of that, the outer rim is only + 1.100kg. The completed wheel weighs between 2.2 kg and 2.4 kg (depending on the motorcycle). Therefore you have a wheel with an incredibly light rim and the weight of the hub at the centre, which gives you a truly high performance wheel."
 
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+1 on the Shorai.

Not just unsprung weight savings on BST carbon fiber wheels but also weight distribution on the wheel itself.(if that makes sense). It's still unsprung weight but improved unsprung weight because of the design.

Yep, a point often overlooked--the polar moment of inertia. The arms of an ice skater weigh the same no matter what they're doing, but when they pull their arms in close they speed the .... up and when they move them outwards they slow down. Farther away the weight is from the axis of rotation, the more energy it takes to rotate--which is a good reason not to overlook the weight of a tire when choosing rubber, as the majority of the weight of the tire is another ~4" out.
 
Yep, a point often overlooked--the polar moment of inertia. The arms of an ice skater weigh the same no matter what they're doing, but when they pull their arms in close they speed the .... up and when they move them outwards they slow down. Farther away the weight is from the axis of rotation, the more energy it takes to rotate--which is a good reason not to overlook the weight of a tire when choosing rubber, as the majority of the weight of the tire is another ~4" out.

Do you already have a list of slicks and their respective weight?
 
If I really wanted to go faster, I would have been practical and bought the bmw.


This bike does everything ill need out of it bone stock, just the way she sits.


The money you could spend going down the rabbit hole on this lightening it up could pay for a cookie cutter liter bike
 
I'm 5'8" 207lbs.

Is that muscle or fat .... If you really care about shaving weight I think body fat is cheaper then a shorai battery or anything these moto gp guys on this forum is telling you .... Some one lighter then you will always pass you on the same bike ...
 
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