What is the trick to ...

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What's the trick to sliding over the seat to take corners without pushing on the handle bar during the body positioning?

As you know i am a harley rider converted to panigale - i tried to hop over the seat to take corners but i always ended up pushing on the handle bar and that causes the bike to unsettle and wobble before i turn :(

Sorry i am a noob so don't hate me hahaha cant seem to find videos on youtube that teaches you how to slide over to left or right to take corners without pushing on the handle bar.

I guess it h as to do with legs against the tank? I just cant seem to get it right because i think i am having problem with the skinny fuel tank :(

I've been watching this video but i kept pushing on the steering bar and unsettling the bike ;(
ttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LvBGh2b5WSU
 
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You're putting too much weight on the bars. Another thing you might be doing is picking your ... up off the seat too much. It should be a smooth transition, try to keep your ... on the seat as much as possible. I see this a lot with street riders. They want to get from one side to the other as quickly as possible causing the bike to bounce, upsetting the suspension.

Try to use your legs and core instead of your arms. Stomp grip is a must with these tanks.
 
Put your inner thighs against the gas tank (I suggest a Stompgrip if you don't have one). When you want to move your body over, pull on the outside of the tank with your outside thigh and use your feet/pegs to help you move over.

If done correctly, you can do it all with your feet, thighs, and core...without even touching the bars. That is what you want to work towards because you want to avoid unwanted inputs into the bars. The bars should be used for controls, not for stability.

Keep in mind your ... is the least important thing when it comes to moving your bodyweight over. The point of moving your weight to the inside is to alter the CoG to reduce lean angle for any given speed+radius. The majority of your mass is in your upper body. If you are moving your butt over, but leaving your upper body up on top of the tank, you aren't accomplishing anything.

People often ask "how much butt should I get off the seat", the answer is "as much as you can without being crossed up". Your butt and spine should be inline, or even opened up to the apex/exit of the corner. If your butt is off the seat, but your spine/head is angled and pointed more towards the gas tank, then you are crossed up...and doing it wrong.

Some people (Elias, Marcquez, Herrin) can get almost their whole ... (both cheeks) off the bike without being crossed up. Personally, the most I will ever have off the seat is one ... cheek, anymore than that and I get crossed up.
 
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Maybe try moving the upper body first - drop the inside shoulder so that you are looking through the corner over the inside mirror...

As Chaotic and Rogue say, your core and legs should do the work.

Getting back on a Sportsbike after the "mid-life" years away sure as hell encouraged me to lose weight and develop some muscle tone again! :)


---
Kent
 
You're putting too much weight on the bars. Another thing you might be doing is picking your ... up off the seat too much. It should be a smooth transition, try to keep your ... on the seat as much as possible. I see this a lot with street riders. They want to get from one side to the other as quickly as possible causing the bike to bounce, upsetting the suspension.

Try to use your legs and core instead of your arms. Stomp grip is a must with these tanks.

Put your inner thighs against the gas tank (I suggest a Stompgrip if you don't have one). When you want to move your body over, pull on the outside of the tank with your outside thigh and use your feet/pegs to help you move over.

If done correctly, you can do it all with your feet, thighs, and core...without even touching the bars. That is what you want to work towards because you want to avoid unwanted inputs into the bars. The bars should be used for controls, not for stability.

Keep in mind your ... is the least important thing when it comes to moving your bodyweight over. The point of moving your weight to the inside is to alter the CoG to reduce lean angle for any given speed+radius. The majority of your mass is in your upper body. If you are moving your butt over, but leaving your upper body up on top of the tank, you aren't accomplishing anything.

People often ask "how much butt should I get off the seat", the answer is "as much as you can without being crossed up". Your butt and spine should be inline, or even opened up to the apex/exit of the corner. If your butt is off the seat, but your spine/head is angled and pointed more towards the gas tank, then you are crossed up...and doing it wrong.

Some people (Elias, Marcquez, Herrin) can get almost their whole ... (both cheeks) off the bike without being crossed up. Personally, the most I will ever have off the seat is one ... cheek, anymore than that and I get crossed up.

Maybe try moving the upper body first - drop the inside shoulder so that you are looking through the corner over the inside mirror...

As Chaotic and Rogue say, your core and legs should do the work.

Getting back on a Sportsbike after the "mid-life" years away sure as hell encouraged me to lose weight and develop some muscle tone again! :)


---
Kent

Thanks guys i am going to have to try these tips from you guys out and yes the answer is also going back to the gym for fitness too :) I am a heavy guy as well 200 pounds :(

I have noticed i lift my butt off the seat too much and therefore having to hold on to my weight by pushing against the handle bar which causes the bike to lose balance :( my next mod will be stomp grip thanks guys - the skinny fuel tank makes it harder to do this for a beginner.
 
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Would it be ok to change tire to something with lower profile as we dont even ride on tracks at all?

Both of our rear tires have massive chicken strips on them because we do not do track days or drag knees at all.

So i was wondering would it be ok to change the rear tire to something more suitable for the road such as lower profile tire that's design for not really going around corners at high speed?

The OEM rear tires are 200/55 ZR17 Pirelli Diablo Supercorsa SP so would it be ok to go with something like 200/45 ???
 
You don't want to go messing with tires. First off, I don't even know if anyone makes a tire like that. Secondly, the profile of the tire is considered in the overall geometry of the bike. Start messing with the profile and you could end up with a bike that handles like .....

You don't want to put the flat profile, Harley type tires on a Sportbike.

With that being said, I would look into going with a good Sport Touring tire. They have more than enough grip for anyone on the street, will last much longer, and are much better in the rain. Nobody needs a true Hypersport tire on the street.
 
After reading your posts, threads...I have to ask, what made you decide to buy a Panigale?

For the type of riding it appears you do, you honestly couldn't have picked a worse bike. And even if you did want a sportbike, it would have been much better to get some time on a 250/300 or even a 600, before jumping on a 200hp unforgiving missile.

I mean, if you just thought it was cool and wanted one, that is awesome. I am not knocking your decision, I am just curious as to why. There are a million other bikes out there that are more comfortable and certainly more forgiving for the type of riding you do.
 
There is a great video online from Keith Code called twist of the wrist. The quality of this link is questionable, but I found lots of good information in it.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DVWcag00ktc

I am definitely not an expert by any stretch when it comes to any of the techniques mentioned, which is why I am taking riding schools every chance I get.
I have been riding almost 20 years now and I am still humbled every time I go to a track day.
If you are going to stick with sport bikes, find a riding school and sign up. they are some of the most amazing days I have had on a bike.
 
First thing I would suggest is if you have a hot girlfriend or Wife... She has to go...(not totally go, just get out of the way of you becoming a better rider)..
There is no room for distraction when learning to ride properly....
That being said, the lot of us on this forum can assist you in this decision if your mate is a distraction... to this end, and in this manner, please post some pictures of her and we will give you our professional opinion....

Best

pA
 
After reading your posts, threads...I have to ask, what made you decide to buy a Panigale?

For the type of riding it appears you do, you honestly couldn't have picked a worse bike. And even if you did want a sportbike, it would have been much better to get some time on a 250/300 or even a 600, before jumping on a 200hp unforgiving missile.

I mean, if you just thought it was cool and wanted one, that is awesome. I am not knocking your decision, I am just curious as to why. There are a million other bikes out there that are more comfortable and certainly more forgiving for the type of riding you do.

I spent a year on a CBR600RR but got bored of it then went back to a Harley - I only bought the Ducati because it has always been my dream bike and I just had to get one really.


I fell inlove with the bike it is like a supermodel girlfriend but she is becoming very expensive to keep lol the 18000km service is going to hit me hard in the pocket ($2000 to $2500 AUD).

There is a great video online from Keith Code called twist of the wrist. The quality of this link is questionable, but I found lots of good information in it.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DVWcag00ktc

I am definitely not an expert by any stretch when it comes to any of the techniques mentioned, which is why I am taking riding schools every chance I get.
I have been riding almost 20 years now and I am still humbled every time I go to a track day.
If you are going to stick with sport bikes, find a riding school and sign up. they are some of the most amazing days I have had on a bike.

Thank you mate.
 
For street riding there is absolutely no need to be moving your ... off the seat at all. Especially if you still have large chicken strips. This pic is with about 500 miles on my new bike, breaking her in on some twisties. You can see the strip on the rear tire. Never moved my ... an inch. You only need to be hanging off at the track dragging your knee.

 
For street riding there is absolutely no need to be moving your ... off the seat at all. Especially if you still have large chicken strips. This pic is with about 500 miles on my new bike, breaking her in on some twisties. You can see the strip on the rear tire. Never moved my ... an inch. You only need to be hanging off at the track dragging your knee.


Good advice thanks mate - counter steering does the tricks for me so far and it's safer.

Here is a picture of our chicken strips - i think we are going to put road tires on our bikes when our rear tires are worn out.

14231145_1093943900697693_2599985727883846234_o_zps2wwp2jjh.jpg



There is a great video online from Keith Code called twist of the wrist. The quality of this link is questionable, but I found lots of good information in it.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DVWcag00ktc

I am definitely not an expert by any stretch when it comes to any of the techniques mentioned, which is why I am taking riding schools every chance I get.
I have been riding almost 20 years now and I am still humbled every time I go to a track day.
If you are going to stick with sport bikes, find a riding school and sign up. they are some of the most amazing days I have had on a bike.

Excellent video :) Thanks man i think this video may have saved my life from doing stupid things.
 
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Look for knee-to-knee on YouTube. The principle is valid for both essess turns as well as single turns.

Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk
 
For street riding there is absolutely no need to be moving your ... off the seat at all. Especially if you still have large chicken strips. This pic is with about 500 miles on my new bike, breaking her in on some twisties. You can see the strip on the rear tire. Never moved my ... an inch. You only need to be hanging off at the track dragging your knee.]

Pardon me for implementing the "wayback machine", but here goes. In the early 80s I roadraced competitively for about two years. I did pretty well for a guy with no experience who started racing at 28 years old. I have a few trophies and plaques to show for it. And I never hung off at all. I have a good friend who for a number of years was one of the best amateur racers in the country, and even qualified for and ran in a Daytona 200...and sat bolt upright as well.

I'm not going to get into a debate of the merits of hanging off. But if my friend and I could do as well as we did without hanging off, then certainly the above post is right on the money. Ride your own ride and do what works for you. We are not racing for pink slips.
 
For street riding there is absolutely no need to be moving your ... off the seat at all. Especially if you still have large chicken strips. This pic is with about 500 miles on my new bike, breaking her in on some twisties. You can see the strip on the rear tire. Never moved my ... an inch. You only need to be hanging off at the track dragging your knee.

Hanging off is not about dragging knees. It's about reducing the lean angle required to navigate a corner on a certain line at a certain speed. Less lean angle is almost always better.

The only difference between the track and the street in this respect is that on the track it's not asinine for you to use that extra lean angle to add more speed.
 
If you find yourself giving to many inputs into the bar at turn in, mid turn, etc..Regardless if on the track or not try to weight your foot pegs more, when you really weight your pegs your upper torso will relax.
 
Thanks guys for the the info and videos you've shown me i have now learnt so much especially after watching "Twist the Wrist 2" :)

Thanks again.
 

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