where to fit rapid bike module

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JeffD said:
Very interesting Macke. Wonder if the guy 'skint refers to is on the level. Frankly the dyno graph doesn't look like a 1199 power curve, but perhaps it's the scale that is throwing me off.
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I am sure its a 1199 power curve just drawn up the paper and not across as with a dyno jetdyno. The other brands of dynos can sometimes give diff readings. if you look at the atmospheric factors at the bottom of the page its a bit all over the place. Low temps with very low barometic press with high humidity. I know dynos correct for this but its hard and good dyno operators wont tune a bike if the conditions are crap. You can see by the correction factors of 1035. Bike made a actual power of 185Hp.
Still on a different dyno you need to compare to the other bikes run on that dyno on the same day or similar conditions.:)
 
JeffD said:
Very interesting Macke. Wonder if the guy 'skint refers to is on the level. Frankly the dyno graph doesn't look like a 1199 power curve, but perhaps it's the scale that is throwing me off.
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We were just looking fpr a way to improve the horrilble throttle (free play and long stroke) and stumbled on a guy that can actually extract all the data from the ECU regarding throttle icluding the throttle tables that instruct the servo motors how much to open, at what hand throttle positions, and on what gears. He can the reprogramme those tables and we can get the stroke we want...
We are actually aiming for a 1:1 ratio between hand TPS and actual throttle opening.. And the same on all gears..

But anyway.. He also offered us to remap the bike using only the OEM ECU, and showed us a couple of dyno runs on previous bikes he did. So the plan is to let him remap the OEM ECU (And get rid of all the annoying error messages on the display from the ABS, DES, etc. And get rid of the service reminder function) and get it as good as possible on the dyno, and then to use the RapidBike Race ECU just to do minor adjustments out on the track after looking att the O2-sensor values in the datalogger...

So, it CAN be done... But you need some kind of special software (and maybe harware to connect to the OEM ECU) and a lot of knowledge to be able to extract all the data from the ECU, reprogramme it, and push it into the ECU again...
 
JeffD said:
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I have seen another Pani rider with the Rapidbike box that had problems with the box overheating. Feels like there is a risk of that happening when placing the box in this location... Just a heads up...
 
Macke said:
I have seen another Pani rider with the Rapidbike box that had problems with the box overheating. Feels like there is a risk of that happening when placing the box in this location... Just a heads up...
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Thanks. I live in Florida where it is very, very hot and humid. If I have any problems with this location I will report back. I've only gone for 4 rides since the RapidBike was installed last week, and the bike temperature got up to 221 F, and I didn't feel any problems yet.
 
Ljuice26 said:
Jeff, any feedback? Won't be able to hit the track until Saturday. I cannot wait
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Leon, I can't get over the difference it makes. The throttle response is so much smoother, even after only 100 or so miles of street riding to let the system learn and auto-adjust. After I had Horst Performance do the dyno runs and check the AFR, Yaman and I made some adjustments to from 8,000 rpm up to richen it back to the point where the first Horst dyno showed it to be making 179. I won't make it back to the dyno until Saturday to confirm, but yesterday on a pretty casual street ride I was just playing with the throttle and it was spinning up the back tire while straight up and down in first gear. I haven't seen that in a long time and when I did it was cold tires and cold pavement. This happened in 86 degrees and after the Q3s were good and warm.

Can't wait to see what you think if it on track, that really is the best place to let the RapidBike learn and adjust, since you're getting the benefit of true ram air and going through most of the gears at different throttle positions. Have you installed the software yet? It would be great if you took some screen shots to see what kind of adjustments are being made to your base maps.
 
JeffD said:
Leon, I can't get over the difference it makes. The throttle response is so much smoother, even after only 100 or so miles of street riding to let the system learn and auto-adjust. After I had Horst Performance do the dyno runs and check the AFR, Yaman and I made some adjustments to from 8,000 rpm up to richen it back to the point where the first Horst dyno showed it to be making 179. I won't make it back to the dyno until Saturday to confirm, but yesterday on a pretty casual street ride I was just playing with the throttle and it was spinning up the back tire while straight up and down in first gear. I haven't seen that in a long time and when I did it was cold tires and cold pavement. This happened in 86 degrees and after the Q3s were good and warm.

Can't wait to see what you think if it on track, that really is the best place to let the RapidBike learn and adjust, since you're getting the benefit of true ram air and going through most of the gears at different throttle positions. Have you installed the software yet? It would be great if you took some screen shots to see what kind of adjustments are being made to your base maps.
Click to expand...

Good to hear your bike is going well. Finally got mine running and I must say I am not to happy where it is located and will keep an eye on it. I wonder what the signs would be if it over heats.
Took it for a quick spin around the block as I did not have mucjh time today to see if everything is working and bike feels good. Ten times better than with that ridiculous rexxer flash. It wheelies now in 2 on partial throttle..
How much did you change your fueling by on top. I see on the map they have leaned it out quite a bit on top.

As for rewriting the stock ecu I cant see why not. It is a mitsibushi ecu same as what I had on my 2012 zx10 and 2013 zx 14. There is a guys called Whoolich racing and I purchased a flash tool and wrote all my own maps. I could change any parameter I wanted to like the opening of the secondary butterflies. I had good success with it.
Hoping he would come with the same for the 1199.
 
miker1 said:
Good to hear your bike is going well. Finally got mine running and I must say I am not to happy where it is located and will keep an eye on it. I wonder what the signs would be if it over heats.
Took it for a quick spin around the block as I did not have mucjh time today to see if everything is working and bike feels good. Ten times better than with that ridiculous rexxer flash. It wheelies now in 2 on partial throttle..
How much did you change your fueling by on top. I see on the map they have leaned it out quite a bit on top.
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Also glad to hear about your initial impressions, they are the same as I've heard from 3 other 1199 owners so far who've gone with RapidBike Race.

I'm with you, I'll have to keep an eye out to see if it overheats. Although my shop's owner has had his installed for a few months now and done about 4 track days with it and hasn't had a problem, but he doesn't ride on the street and I do.

I don't know if I would make any adjustments without having a dyno run to get a look at the AFR. As you can see in the dyno graph I posted, my bike was running just under 14 AFR from about 8,000 rpm to redline. So we adjusted the cells around 65%-95% throttle from 8,000 rpm to redline up about 8 percent. I was told the rule of thumb is about 1:1 in making AFR map adjustments with the fuel controller so this should bring it to just above 13 AFR. I won't know for sure until next Saturday when Horst Performance (same as before) will run the bike on the dyno again. My target would be about 12.8 AFR at the top end to get back to the point that my bike was putting out its best peak HP and keep the rest of the map as-is to keep the ~12 HP midrange gain I got (and continually adjusting - with a limit of 8% either way to keep things in check should an O2 sensor foul/fail).
 
Jeff, I have the software and I'll try to get some screen shots. I know there won't be much time inbetween the track and the class room, so I'll get my pit girl to do it for me.
 
Ljuice26 said:
Jeff, I have the software and I'll try to get some screen shots. I know there won't be much time inbetween the track and the class room, so I'll get my pit girl to do it for me.
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go racing and take the screenshots later. you will be running around so much, focus!!! and drink enough! and stay close to a bathroom.


ask how i know!


good luck!
 
JeffD said:
Also glad to hear about your initial impressions, they are the same as I've heard from 3 other 1199 owners so far who've gone with RapidBike Race.

I'm with you, I'll have to keep an eye out to see if it overheats. Although my shop's owner has had his installed for a few months now and done about 4 track days with it and hasn't had a problem, but he doesn't ride on the street and I do.

I don't know if I would make any adjustments without having a dyno run to get a look at the AFR. As you can see in the dyno graph I posted, my bike was running just under 14 AFR from about 8,000 rpm to redline. So we adjusted the cells around 65%-95% throttle from 8,000 rpm to redline up about 8 percent. I was told the rule of thumb is about 1:1 in making AFR map adjustments with the fuel controller so this should bring it to just above 13 AFR. I won't know for sure until next Saturday when Horst Performance (same as before) will run the bike on the dyno again. My target would be about 12.8 AFR at the top end to get back to the point that my bike was putting out its best peak HP and keep the rest of the map as-is to keep the ~12 HP midrange gain I got (and continually adjusting - with a limit of 8% either way to keep things in check should an O2 sensor foul/fail).
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So your afr as per the dyno chart was with the map as supplied. I see there is a couple of diff maps which one did you put on. I must have a look at mine too then. On the dyno for maz power on the road you need to be at about 12.8 afr as you said/
 
We mounted ours like this...
 

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miker1 said:
So your afr as per the dyno chart was with the map as supplied. I see there is a couple of diff maps which one did you put on. I must have a look at mine too then. On the dyno for maz power on the road you need to be at about 12.8 afr as you said/
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My shop (Orlando Motorcycle Shop - Parts and Service | Cycle Pro Orlando, FL) installed the unit and uploaded a base map, I'm not sure which one. You have the full exhaust though so I would go with the ones with that option as mine was just the slip on and MWR HE filter. Either way, I think the only way to make valid manual adjustments is by having the bike on the dyno to check the AFR after some miles for the system to self-adjust and preferably after a few dyno runs to fill in the cells that don't get seen to much on the street.

Macke said:
We mounted ours like this...
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Looks good and out of the exhaust heat, but as you said it requires a tiny LiPO4 battery, probably smaller than what would be required for street duty which my bike also sees.
 
JeffD said:
Looks good and out of the exhaust heat, but as you said it requires a tiny LiPO4 battery, probably smaller than what would be required for street duty which my bike also sees.
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Aaah.. Good point... :)

You see the red/black connector at the top of the picture. That is for connecting the "starter battery" to the bike. We have a bigger, external, starting batteri which we sometimes have to use. Especially when starting the bike cold. Once the bike is warmed up, the smaller battery manages to start the bike by itself.
 
JeffD said:
Leon, you're not going to Cycle Pro next Saturday 5/24? The RapidBike lead engineer and management from Italy will be there and Horst will be dyno tuning all the RapidBike equipped bikes with their oversight. Should be an epic event with at least 5 Panigales there, food, music, even dancing girls!
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You fellows should take notes and please let me know what the experts say.
Guys i have been lokking at the maps supplied by RB. There are maps for full termi with flash and full termi corsa with flash. What is the differnce between the two pipes. I see the fueling is quite different and the full corsa runs abit richer on top with the fueling.
 
I guess one is th full termi and the other is the Termis with the Corsa pipe. Running the standard map like Jeff.
 
Originally Posted by JeffD
Leon, you're not going to Cycle Pro next Saturday 5/24? The RapidBike lead engineer and management from Italy will be there and Horst will be dyno tuning all the RapidBike equipped bikes with their oversight. Should be an epic event with at least 5 Panigales there, food, music, even dancing girls!

Any exiting news from this event ?
 

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