Woolich Racing Tune and lag

rileydeed said:

I was thinking I might. I am having trouble finding enough road to fill in the upper RPM and 100% throttle positions in autotune, so most of my fuel mapping is only corrected for the lower RPM stuff. I may actually end up taking it to the dyno guy and getting some more hard throttle data as well as actual HP and torque numbers. Then I will have a more complete file to share.


Thank you. I will try to add more results as I get them.

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Exactly my issue was the full WOT pull not enough road and scared of getting caught by cops not that I would ever stop [emoji23]


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I have an appointment to take the bike into a local tuner to get some of the cells filled in in the upper ranges and harder throttle positions on the dyno. Also to get some torque and HP numbers to make sure that I am on the right track with my timing adjustments. I am wondering what I should set the "IAP - TPS transition" at. Early on in my research I found someone on youtube who recommended 30% and because I did not want to make to large of a change at once, I changed it to 15%. Now I can't remember what it was originally set at. Was it 0? Does anyone know? Has anyone else tried other settings for this with better results? Just wanted to get the best results for my dyno session.

Nice process! I've been playing around with Tuneboy and would be very interested in your timing numbers. On the dyno we found adding 5° up to about 4k eliminated a lot of surging, but we didn't explore the timing side as much due to the time it was taking to get the fuel right. If you can share a screen shot or similar of your new map, it would be appreciated

Disco said:

Nice process! I've been playing around with Tuneboy and would be very interested in your timing numbers. On the dyno we found adding 5° up to about 4k eliminated a lot of surging, but we didn't explore the timing side as much due to the time it was taking to get the fuel right. If you can share a screen shot or similar of your new map, it would be appreciated

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This is a graph of the factory timing curve on cylinder one in 2nd gear




Sorry, I had a screenshot of cylinder two, but I messed it up trying to attach it. Anyways, if you do a study of the two cylinders side by side you will see a lot of discrepancy between the two cylinders, especially right where our bikes run so rough.


and here is my custom graph which I made to match both cylinders and all gears, including neutral. You can see that I used the smoothing feature, but I was also careful to go back to the trim values and watch out for certain areas from getting too much advanced from factory, which can happen if you rely too heavily on just the smoothing button.



I had to put the actual tables into 2 separate screenshots. top one is up to 4500rpm and bottom one 5000 and up. After I copied and pasted the numbers below into each cylinder and gear, I went into configuration and clicked on "unify ignition group maps" and "unify ignition cylinder maps" so that any changes I make will affect both cylinders and all gears the same. A lot of the reason why the tables show such dark blue areas (signifying added timing) is because it is comparing the timing to every variation that was in the original map. For example, at idle my map is adding 13 degrees to cylinder one, but that is just to match the timing that the factory map had for cylinder two. I was very careful not to increase the timing at any one rpm or throttle position beyond what at least one of the cylinders were already using. Like I mentioned in a previous post, I can't think of a reason (other than deliberate de-tuning) that would account for such drastic changes from cylinder to cylinder and gear to gear. My bike is running better than I expected and although I have done other things that have contributed to that, including what I have refined in the AFRs using auto tune, I think the biggest improvement has been the changes to the timing curves.

Here's what I found in the coolant temperature compensation maps. Like I mentioned in a previous post, I was having a lot of trouble with logging conflicting data depending on whether I was running in the chilly mornings or the warmer afternoons. I have my auto tune settings to filter out data 60C (140F). In the early mornings, the engine temps were not getting over 150F and at those temps the temperature compensation was adding 4.5% more fuel to cylinder one than it was adding to cylinder two in the IAP map and 7.5% more fuel to cylinder two than cylinder one at idle. So I was getting very different readings in auto tune depending on how warm the engine was. My thinking here was that I would balance those corrections out and since my cold runs were in general quite a lot richer than when it was warmer, I decided to use the smaller of the two values for each category and temperature range. I have refined it a little more and I actually reduced the enrichment a little too far to the point that it would stall when really cold (too lean) so I added some fuel back in those areas. Since doing this, the logged AFRs have been much better matched between cylinders.

In case someone is reading this and hasn't read all my posts, my bike is a 1299s. I realize we are posting in the 1199 section, but this seemed like the best place to enter a conversation on the topic. Also, I hope it goes without saying, I am just sharing my thoughts and experience here and I take no responsibility for what you chose to do with it.

Anyways, here is a screenshot of the factory settings. This is located in; Other Maps/Coolant Temperature Fuel Compensation. And I did get confirmation from Woolich support that these numbers do represent % of fuel added or removed from whatever is in your fuel maps.



And here are the settings I am running currently

I just submitted my latest bin file to Mapshare. I was able to get a little time on a dyno to help map some of the harder throttle positions and I have quite a bit of time using auto tune to tune the light throttle stuff. I am still doing some fine tuning, but I thought I would share in case anyone wanted to try it. Bike runs really well. Between the timing adjustments I made and the Changes to the ETV maps, the throttle response is almost too good and the low rpm bucking is not nearly as bad. Also the bike hasn't stalled on me once since I made all these changes.

rileydeed said:

I just submitted my latest bin file to Mapshare. I was able to get a little time on a dyno to help map some of the harder throttle positions and I have quite a bit of time using auto tune to tune the light throttle stuff. I am still doing some fine tuning, but I thought I would share in case anyone wanted to try it. Bike runs really well. Between the timing adjustments I made and the Changes to the ETV maps, the throttle response is almost too good and the low rpm bucking is not nearly as bad. Also the bike hasn't stalled on me once since I made all these changes.

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Hey man .

I'll try it out for sure , I also uploaded my 1299 map , however it's a tuneBoy map , bike actually runs awesome , check it out and compare to yours.

Thanks for sharing the the info


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Just thought I'd jump into the thread here and give a few insights I've found in my own efforts with the 1199. First a few qualifications for myself. 10 years in the Marines doing Avionics and all sorts of other neat and deadly things, AS in electronics Engineering witha heavy Mechanical Engineering background, 25 years Auto/Light truck Master Technician, done a bit of racing engine building and dev, lots of tech work and brain teasing with designs and dev work for exhausts/intakes and turbos on the Automotive side of things, and my Ducati 1199 is my first REAL motorcycle...and I'm 64.

So, all BS aside, I run the Tuneboy system, Complete Cruise and Tune, not the Woolich. I didn't like the lack of being able to really get in and play with things with the Woolich setup, and the Tuneboy 'extras' of additional fuel maps ready at hand, plus Cruise and a blipper sold me on the system. I've been playing with it for about 18 months now, and it works great, smooth, lots of power, totally dependable.. In fact I haven't messed with the fuel maps in about a year I'm so satisfied with them. BUT... here is where my OCD kicks in.. that nasty power slump from 3200-6500 rpm just drives me bonkers. I've seen the Termi dyno curves compared to the stock ones, and even the Termi's have the slump, and that bothered me... a lot.

So... I sat and thought about it for about 3 days, ran some numbers did some research, and did some theoretical exhaust flow/resonance analysis since it seemed to me that the slump was being caused by a resonance mismatch and resultant turbulence due to the long overlap on the cam and the resonance peak hitting an exhaust flow snag and screwing with the feeback pulse on the exhaust side. The key to the difference is in the side by side comparisons of a Termi vs stock exhaust system. The slump is still there, but it's basically flat lined. The Termi exhaust is larger in diameter and has a different flow pattern through the "Y" joint, plus the silencers have more flow in them. This all helps crutch the powerband at the slump area, but does not cure the problem. A resonance point analysis shows that the slump low rpm point is PAST the catalytic convertors in the stock exhaust, and the upward trend starts at about the point where the resonance coincides with just entering the mufflers, directly after the " Y" connection. The Termi has a differently shaped Y, so the resonance pulse is stronger at this point, leading to a better exhaust event and causing an uptick in power from 3500-7500 compared to stock. After that the larger diameter tubing carries the top end power better because the resonance point is steadily working it's way toward the exhaust port of the engine due to the higher rpm's and shorter resonance event timing.

Another thing holding back the engines power curve at this point is that the throttle blades from 50-100% range move the same in the 2500-7000 rpm range, instead of opening further in this range at higher throttle hand movement. So, at 50% hand movement, you get the same amount of throttle blade opening as you do at 100% hand movement, until the percentage of throttle blade movement diverges above about 6500 rpm. Due to the differences in the throttle opening curves versus what the input at the throttle handle actually is, 50-80% power doesn't have as gross a difference between the 3000 rpm point and 50-80% maximum opening point of 8500 rpm, so the difference in acceleartion "feel' is not as different as if a person was at 100% throttle and had only 35% opening at 3500 rpm, was held back to less than 50% throttle opening until over 6500 rpm and then suddenly got a rush of more power due to the throttle blades slamming open above 7000 rpm. To test this theory I increased the throttle opening at 100% throttle twist, for the area between 3500-7000 rpm, by 8-12% over what the normal curve is, and noticed a substantially stronger mid range. I haven't had the bike on a dyno to verify this yet, as I'm getting a slip-on and making mods to the bike at the moment, including adding bungs for AF ratio sensors so I can make sure I have the fuel curve properly dialed in. But, dialing in more percentage of throttle opening at the mid range RPM's did help, which shows several things.

First, the exhaust resonance is probalby still not alleviated due to the stock exhaust design. I have a Dominator exhaust on the way, and the first thing I'll do is remove the Cat and replace it with a straight pipe to ensure that the Cat doesn't cause any resonance issues. It's going to be loud, but all in the name of solving this problem. Secondly, the increased throttle blade opening in the mid range DOES do something to alleviate the slump, which shows the engine wants more flow, both from the Intake, as well as the Exhaust. I'm hoping the new exhaust gives what is needed. And lastly. a lot of the fuel Maps we get need to befiddled with. Mine is pretty dead on as far as I am concerned, even without an AF ratio sensor to dial things in perfectly. If anything it's probably a tad rich, and a plug read I did last week agreed with this assessment. But until i can dial in the AF ratio using Sensors, and then get a good dyno pull with AF ratio alongside the power curves, I won't be able to verify exactly where I am.

One last note.. I like to keep the front tire on the ground. Those pesky 1st and 2nd gear wheelies were dialed out by decreasing the throttle percentages between 50-100% in 1st gear, to a maximum of about 80%, and 65-100% in 2nd to only 90% at max input. 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th all have the same throttle curves for consistency. No more unwanted wheelies. I'll keep people apprised of my progress with this, but until I can get a dyno curve to verify what I am doing it's all theoretical and 'seat of the pants' feel.

The first Map is the stock throttle blade openings versus hand movment. the 2nd is 6th gear of the modified curves high up and the last is my adjusted anti-wheely 1st gear map.

Have a good one.

I'd be been to see your maps vs mine as it sounds like you have the same set up. I'm plagued with hesitation at around 3500rpm despite having been on the dyno and having WB O2 sensors and monitoring the AFR. If your happy to share the tune and trim file, I'll have a look against my 13.2 AFR map and see if there are any substantial differences

How do I send you the tune? BTW, I found that the supplied TB Maps were a bit on the Lean side so I richened them. I'm leery of supplied Maps because the fuel has changed and now contains 10% Ethanol here in the States, which leans the mixture 5% or more. i basically took the Map supplied and flattened it out and increased the fuel in the mid range.

You could just put up the screen shots - fuel TP trim front and rear, ignition front and rear, and the tune with the same screens

I PM'd you a link to DL them, but here's the basic fuel Map I've been running. I haven't changed the ignition maps or fuel maps in the Tune, only the throttle blade percentages

Has anyone else tried adjusting quickshifter settings with the woolich software? I changed the upshift kill time from 100ms to 50 and I really like it. So much smoother upshifts. I haven't tried any of the other adjustments; upshift delay, upshift voltage, of any of the downshift settings.

Disco said:

I'd be been to see your maps vs mine as it sounds like you have the same set up. I'm plagued with hesitation at around 3500rpm despite having been on the dyno and having WB O2 sensors and monitoring the AFR. If your happy to share the tune and trim file, I'll have a look against my 13.2 AFR map and see if there are any substantial differences

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An update for this post.
I used to do a lot of Automotive HP tuning back in the day. One thing I learned to do in my head was exhaust resonance at RPM vs. Cam timing. After a bit of number crunching I discovered that at 3000-5000 the exhaust resonance with stock cam timing runs right into the area between where the exhaust attaches to the muffler assemblies and the middle-back of the Cat converters themselves. Kind of kills any kind of exhaust flow due to a really bad resonance inversion at that RPM range. Above that range the Resonance moves further back along the exhaust pipes, helping the resonance achieve better scavenging and allowing the engine to breath better. You can tell the Exhaust is the problem by accelerating at high throttle on the highway at 3000-6000 RPM. The engine just bogs and you can hear the intake noises indicating flow inversion. I switched to a Dominator bolt on muffler, which is basically a glorified 57mm ID set of pipe with two resonators in it. The Bog went away, mid-range went crazy, and I'm in the middle of tuning the fuel curves at the moment. It'll be going on the dyno at the end of the month to get the 80 and 100% throttle setting dialed in and a dyno power pull done to verify the increases. but in the area from 60% down, I've had to add substantially more fuel across the board to get the fuel curves correct. I'll give two graphs for the Front cylinder here, the first is the original values, the 2nd is the 'Roll on' changes verified with LC2 AF sensors with multiple pulls on the road. Still not 100% exactly correct, but getting very close at this juncture. The Vertical Cylinder followed the changes made to the Front. You can see the tremendous increase in fuel needed throughout the RPM range due to the need for more fuel because the engine is breathing better after ditching the stock muffler assembly. As noted, 80 and 100% throttle values are still to be determined on a dyno.