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Lol [emoji23]
Nope, exactly the same thing!
Now that you brought that reference I’m even more surprised you use the term “stage”.
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2020 V4S Bren Tune Review
- Thread starter brad8266
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Lol [emoji23]
Nope, exactly the same thing!
Now that you brought that reference I’m even more surprised you use the term “stage”.
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I have the Bren tuning module in my garage, was sort off a pita to use, scan the bike, email the file, a few WEEKS later a canned file sent back to you, run it, log it, wait for more updates from Bren tuning….etc etc etc.
for the same price the Woolich system is available with full wideband auto tuning that a layman can manage with real time mapping abs no ‘off the shelf’ tune remotely from Bren
not to cut on Bren Tuning….but I don’t know why anyone would use that process now that Woolich is available
This Bren Tuning thread was originated almost two years ago, with the Woolich release for V4 it makes the Bren Tune abs that whole process irrelevant at this point.
for the same price the Woolich system is available with full wideband auto tuning that a layman can manage with real time mapping abs no ‘off the shelf’ tune remotely from Bren
not to cut on Bren Tuning….but I don’t know why anyone would use that process now that Woolich is available
This Bren Tuning thread was originated almost two years ago, with the Woolich release for V4 it makes the Bren Tune abs that whole process irrelevant at this point.
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Especially since they’re roughly the same price.
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@Steven31371 I agree Woolich is a better platform, but only in the hands of someone who really knows what they are doing. I would rather take a canned SLR or Bren map than try and hack together my own Woolich map. And if I am taking the bike to a dyno shop to do the Woolich tuning, that negates any advantages related to saving hassle/time over SLR/Bren.
I do agree that dimsport is antiquated and Bren/SLR is canned for the most part. But Wooich isn't a panacea unless you have a really really good local shop you trust that isn't going to hold your bike for months (all shops near me are notorious for delays).
I do agree that dimsport is antiquated and Bren/SLR is canned for the most part. But Wooich isn't a panacea unless you have a really really good local shop you trust that isn't going to hold your bike for months (all shops near me are notorious for delays).
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Having to download the map to the Dimsport then email it in, wait for them to send it back...eh.
I don't see why you couldn't go to a dyno and do a few pulls to get the cells completed like you want. Woolich has a lot more options and it seems like a more useful tool (software) overall. If the Bren/SLR was $500 I could see it, but at the same price, I don't know.
I don't see why you couldn't go to a dyno and do a few pulls to get the cells completed like you want. Woolich has a lot more options and it seems like a more useful tool (software) overall. If the Bren/SLR was $500 I could see it, but at the same price, I don't know.
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How much does it cost to do two different Dino runs? You'd want to do pre and post I assume correct? And that's not even counting your time in taking two half days off to go do dyno pulls
Edit: in full disclosure my SLR tune took like 8 to 10 hours because we were having software issues and Frank had to spend six or seven hours on the phone just troubleshooting it. In all that time I could have probably gotten a woolich tune
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I thought the Woolich system has auto-tune.
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You'd get those values (max HP) doing the auto tune on a dyno since your first run would be stock, and then you'd apply the corrected map and run it again. You could stick with that or do a few more pulls.
I haven't paid for a dyno run since 2015-2016 but it wasn't expensive and it was for three pulls which is pretty standard.
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AFAIK, the auto-tune function is not really a “tune”. It’s simply adjusts the set AFR across the rpm range based on the wideband O2 sensor(s) you must install to replace the oem narrowband sensors. An experienced tuner will adjust the AFR, ignition timing, electronic throttle mapping, among a few other parameters to attain your goals like peak power and/or drive ability.
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Auto tune is just one feature. Its a full tuning package that you can do as much or as little with as you want.
The only thing which would give me pause on the Woolich system is mounting a wideband bung. There's adapters you can buy to make a narrow band a wide but it places the sensor outside of the exhaust flow. I don't know if that would hinder things. The stock narrow bands aren't mounted where the two front and/or two rear cylinder pipes merge together which would be better. In @Steven31371 's case, he has four wideband bungs and could do per cylinder tuning pretty easily, albeit in a time consuming way.
The only thing which would give me pause on the Woolich system is mounting a wideband bung. There's adapters you can buy to make a narrow band a wide but it places the sensor outside of the exhaust flow. I don't know if that would hinder things. The stock narrow bands aren't mounted where the two front and/or two rear cylinder pipes merge together which would be better. In @Steven31371 's case, he has four wideband bungs and could do per cylinder tuning pretty easily, albeit in a time consuming way.
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I have no experience with woolich or ecu tunning. I currently have the brentune/akra tune on my bike can i use one as a base and use the woolich to autotune from there and make adjustments if this makes sense? or do i have to go back to stock to use the woolich? for a noob is the autotune pretty simple? and do i have to "run" the bike similar to a dyno? I do not have a track near me so not sure if i have to go to one to truly use the woolich. I really hate my cordona kill times and i want to get this fixed with the ecu tune. I do not think Brentune will respond to me about adjusting it so i wanted to use the woolich since it came out. thank you for your help and sorry for the noob questions
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You can use whatever tune you have on it now as a base and go from there.
You wouldn't need a track as much as a straight open road free of traffic. I posted a video Woolich has of how the auto tune is done earlier in this thread. Its not necessary to do it on a dyno, it just would be a controlled environment. Its not as simple and just starting from idle and going to redline, at least what they have posted.
I think the issue with the Cordona isn't the kill times but how much force (too little) is needed for the shift.
You wouldn't need a track as much as a straight open road free of traffic. I posted a video Woolich has of how the auto tune is done earlier in this thread. Its not necessary to do it on a dyno, it just would be a controlled environment. Its not as simple and just starting from idle and going to redline, at least what they have posted.
I think the issue with the Cordona isn't the kill times but how much force (too little) is needed for the shift.
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Exactly …to both comments.
I switched to the H&M Quickshifter from the Cordona and never had another problem. The H&M let’s you adjust the pressure sensitivity of how much force is required with your foot on the shift lever to shift. Adjusting that solved all my shifting issues.
On the Woolich, I’m going to have it dyno tuned mostly because I just want to as a baseline tune, but the thing I like about the Woolich the most is that without being a ‘bike tuner’ I can log and adjust the tune in real life riding environments where there is load up and down hills and some ram air affect through the air intake at speed etc.
Dyno conditions are not real life conditions. So being able to fairly easily log and adjust the tune to real riding conditions is appealing to me.
Dyno tuning is just a starting point as far as I’m concerned.
I know guys that skip the dyno tune altogether and just log and tune real life conditions.
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go the Woolich website, they have vid tutorials for every part of it from install to tuning
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